48: Annie Sanders, USA’s Static Boulderer

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I actually haven't climbed since finals. People

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just expect me to not do cordo moves and stuff

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like that and I just kind of want to change that.

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I just like enjoy the grind. I enjoy like the

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pain. Welcome to another episode of the That's

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Not Real Climbing podcast. I'm your host, Jinni,

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and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today,

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Annie Sanders. Annie is a climber on Team USA,

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and she has had an amazing World Cup season this

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year with two Boulder Golds and a Lead Gold and

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even more podiums. In this episode, we'll learn

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about what goes through her mind during her crazy

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beta breaks, what her training routine looks

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like, and how gym access really influences performance.

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I really appreciate her breaking out of her shell

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a bit to do this interview. So enjoy this exclusive

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interview with Annie. I'm excited to announce

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that my sponsor, Mad Rock Climbing, just came

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out with a brand new pair of shoes, the Remora

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Pro. I was so excited to try them on that even

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though I broke a toe on my right foot, I had

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to at least try on the left shoe. So I can definitely

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say that the Remora Pro is better than a rental

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shoe. But really, these are their softest shoe

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matter how hard you're pulling. Feel free to

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code NOTREALCLIMBER for 10 % off your entire

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MedRock order. Back to the show. How are you

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doing today? I'm good. How are you? Good, good.

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A little bit hectic because I'm taking care of

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a cat right now. Maybe she'll make an appearance.

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I don't know. We'll definitely get more into

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world champs later on. But how are you feeling

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now coming back from Korea? Are you still jet

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lagged or when did you get back? I got back on

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Monday, but I'm definitely still jet lagged.

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Like I think last night I slept for like 12 hours

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and I'm still pretty exhausted today. Oh my gosh.

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It's been like a week, right? Yeah. I feel like

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it usually takes me at least two weeks to like

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fully recover from any Asia trip. No, I totally

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agree with that. People think I'm like crazy

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for saying that I feel like I lose a month of

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my life whenever I go to Asia. But yeah, I think

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it takes me like two weeks there and then two

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weeks when I get back. And so I feel like I lose

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my entire life. Yeah. Do you have any like jet

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lag tricks? Honestly, not really. Just try to

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like not nap later in the day because then I'll

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be up all night. I've been like taking like two

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or three naps around like. noon and maybe like

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two it's like the exhaustion hits different though

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it's not just like a nap that you can say no

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to yeah exactly i can't function anymore yeah

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like i can't stay awake yeah how do you climb

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with the jet lag i actually haven't climbed since

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finals so i'm taking a little bit of a break

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right now but usually i just like usually i just

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like try to push through it maybe not train as

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hard but like I don't know always just try to

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like listen to my body and see how I feel what

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about when it's like competition time like the

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jet lag you get in Asia honestly I don't feel

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that much jet lag when I'm going to Asia but

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once I get back it like hits me pretty hard and

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the same with Europe I think it's when I'm in

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Europe I'm there for so long that I don't really

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notice it but right yeah I feel like I only feel

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the jet lag when I get back from Asia it's really

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weird I mean, I guess that's convenient that

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you don't feel the jet lag when it's important,

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I guess. Yeah, exactly. Yeah. Okay. Did you do

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anything fun in Korea? I mean, we went shopping,

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of course. That was pretty much it. We didn't

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really have time to do too much sightseeing.

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So we were kind of staying in the area where

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the venue was. And how long were you there for?

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I honestly can't remember. Maybe like a week.

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oh in korea i think i was there for about a week

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and a half maybe but i also yeah something like

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that i can't i don't know the exact length but

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i did go to japan for a week before then for

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like training and travel i guess yeah what did

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you do in japan i've never been but i would really

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like to check it out mostly just like training

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and the gyms they were very good but yeah the

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trip was like mostly focused around training

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because like a lot of the gyms there open very

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late so we would just like wait wake up have

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to like wait out the day go to the gym and then

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by the time we're finished it's already like

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bedtime so but like on the rest days we would

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go shopping like check out coffee shops do some

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sightseeing it's kind of wild that you would

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say that you have to like wait out the day in

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Japan I feel like for a lot of people going to

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Japan is like a dream vacation yeah I mean, we

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did do a little bit of sightseeing during that

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time, but not much. Are you a foodie when you

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travel, or is it just shopping? I'm really into

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coffee, and I actually found a 10 out of 10 coffee

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shop in Japan, in Shinjuku. Yeah, what's it called?

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Give it a shout out. It's called Covert Coffee.

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It's really close to the Shinjuku train station.

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Okay. Hopefully people can check that out when

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they go. Yeah. Yeah. I guess getting a little

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bit into climbing and your background with that,

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how did you start out climbing? So my mom is

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actually a climber. So she started climbing when

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she was in college and she kind of like brought

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it into the family. I pretty much like grew up

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in a gym. I would like hang around her and her

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friends' kids like when they were all climbing

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together. And then when I was seven, I started

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competing and that's when I like fell in love

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with competition climbing. decided that's what

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i wanted to keep doing with my life okay so sort

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of a climbing family or do you have like siblings

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uh yeah i have two older sisters my uh one of

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my older sisters also climbs she also works at

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the gym she coaches little kids Yeah, what was

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that dynamic like growing up being like the youngest

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one? Or I guess I don't know necessarily if you're

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the youngest one. Yeah, I'm the youngest, yeah.

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Okay, yeah. So like being the youngest one and

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then also other people who like climbing the

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family. I mean, it was pretty cool. We would

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always like plan a bunch of trips around climbing.

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So like, for example, we used to go to Rifle

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in the summer and we would like go camping and

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then climbing and stuff like that. So it was

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a pretty cool family dynamic. Yeah, you felt

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like you actually liked it the whole time. Yeah,

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I actually liked it. I mean, my parents gave

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me like many options. I like tried many different

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sports, but I always stuck to climbing. What

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do you feel like was the second closest sport

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that you really enjoyed? Definitely swimming.

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I still do swim twice a week for cross training.

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Really? Yeah, I quit competitive swimming when

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I was nine. Just to focus on climbing? Yeah.

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Okay, that makes sense. So, yeah, I guess I would

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say that I always thought you were more of a

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lead climber than a boulderer. I don't know where

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I got that thought from. Maybe just from like

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the way that you rest on boulders or something

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like that. But your results are actually pretty

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even. So do you have a preference nowadays still?

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No, I don't have a preference. I mean, I like

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both equally. So it's like hard to choose one.

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Yeah, I guess I found that surprising. I mean,

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did you did you used to like lead more, you think?

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Honestly, not really. I kind of have always done

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both equally. I think I've just been naturally

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better as a lead climber because I have more

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slow twitch muscles. I move slower on the wall,

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but that's something that I'm going to try to

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work on this coming off season. In general, how

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would you characterize your climbing? I mean,

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honestly, I feel like you're kind of right in

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a way. I feel like I do climb like a lead climber.

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But... It's kind of because I'm also timid on

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a lot of boulders. I don't really commit fully

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to a lot of the moves, which is why I kind of

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suck at coordination moves. It kind of gets to

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me at comps, but yeah. I feel like a lot of coaches

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and people say that in bouldering, you have to

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be very sure in your movement and commit to a

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certain beta. And so how do you... I don't know,

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managed to perform in bouldering with still being

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so unsure about what movement you want to go

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with? I think I'm just like really good at pure

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strength boulders. Like I can just like pull

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through and like, I don't know, I guess thug

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my way through a lot of the boulders. But for

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example, in like soul finals, that wasn't the

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case. Like I had to like be powerful, explosive

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and all that type of stuff. So that's why I did

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like pretty bad at that round. Okay. Yeah, that

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makes sense. And then you can also spend like

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a really long time on boulders or lead routes.

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Do you feel like endurance came naturally to

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you or was it something you like worked really

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hard to train and get better at? It's definitely,

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I mean, I guess it does come natural in some

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ways, but I do have to work very hard to like

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maintain it. So like even when I was younger,

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I was doing like up, down, ups on like. 5

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5 13 and I think I would say like most of my

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lead sessions I do a minimum of like 15 to

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routes something like that I think the most I've

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done is like 23 in a session but I don't always

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do that but yeah I definitely have to work to

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keep that endurance and so do you prioritize

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keeping that endurance over maybe working on

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something like being more powerful honestly not

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really I would say I work more on bouldering

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that I than I do on lead climbing like I think

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I only do ropes once a week so yeah I definitely

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boulder a lot more and we'll get into a bit more

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of like the details of your training later but

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um for now since we just came off the 2025 season

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um let's get into that a little bit so looking

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back on your 2025 season how do you feel like

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it went in general I feel like it went pretty

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well like I kept like a good momentum throughout

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the whole season but like I performed pretty

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well maybe not at all the comps but most of them

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but i think like towards the end towards korea

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i was just like getting pretty tired it was like

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an especially long season for people it sounds

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like yeah i think it started in april yeah just

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thinking back to a lot of like the boulder comps

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do you ever regret trying to like beta break

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or static so many of them yeah like definitely

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Dude, there are so many times where I just got

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so extremely pumped on a boulder where I just

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could not recover for the rest of my attempts.

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Whoa, really? I think at finals in Seoul on the

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second boulder, I was on that second to last

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hold for probably a minute and a half or something

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like that. And after my first attempt, I was

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pretty much done. I could not recover after that.

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We can't see what's going on behind the camera

00:11:21.610 --> 00:11:24.230
or what the coaches are thinking. Do you get

00:11:24.230 --> 00:11:27.220
like... talking to from the coaches of like you

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gotta stop doing that yeah my coach did tell

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me that I should like fully commit to the coordination

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beta for like the first three to four minutes

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and if I feel like it's like I'm not close at

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all or if it's not gonna work then maybe I could

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try to static but I don't know I guess like when

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I'm in the moment all like my main goal is just

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to like get to the top of the boulder so I'm

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not really thinking about that and so you're

00:11:51.820 --> 00:11:55.830
gonna disregard that coaching Not like just disregard,

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but I kind of just like forget about it in the

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moment because I'm so locked in. And then I guess

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similarly along the vein of like being a slower

00:12:04.429 --> 00:12:09.230
climber, you time out a lot in lead. I guess

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I'm wondering how that happens because I think

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a lot of people look down at the clock, realize

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that there's not much time left and then they

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like kind of motor. So do you just like stop

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looking at the clock at a certain point or what

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happens there? uh I mean when I get to about

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a minute left I kind of do start to like pick

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up the pace but I mean ideally I should be picking

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up the pace like lower down on the route because

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that's where I lose most of my time but yeah

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it's kind of weird because like in my training

00:12:39.620 --> 00:12:42.860
I honestly don't climb that slow I would say

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I'm actually a pretty fast climber but whenever

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I'm like on signing something I'm pretty slow

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so that's like something I need to work on Is

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it like you think the pressure of like one slip

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and then it's over? I think that and I'm just

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like more focused on like getting to the top

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of the route than I am on like getting as high

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as I can in the fastest amount of time like without

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timing out. I guess it's kind of surprising to

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hear that you start to motor after like when

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there's a minute left because I feel like there

00:13:16.769 --> 00:13:20.110
are definitely times in lead where there's like

00:13:20.379 --> 00:13:23.039
less than a minute and you still look like as

00:13:23.039 --> 00:13:25.720
if there was an infinite amount of time left

00:13:25.720 --> 00:13:28.460
yeah true i mean maybe i think i'm moving faster

00:13:28.460 --> 00:13:31.259
but maybe i'm not i don't know because sometimes

00:13:31.259 --> 00:13:33.899
i go back and i like like in the moment i feel

00:13:33.899 --> 00:13:35.879
like i'm like flying through the route and then

00:13:35.879 --> 00:13:38.240
i go back and watch it and i'm like dang i'm

00:13:38.240 --> 00:13:40.419
going really slow right now yeah i need to like

00:13:40.419 --> 00:13:42.600
pick up the pace how often do you watch back

00:13:42.600 --> 00:13:45.299
your climbs like pretty much after every comp

00:13:45.299 --> 00:13:48.159
i like to see like what i could work on what

00:13:48.159 --> 00:13:50.629
i could improve Based on what you've watched

00:13:50.629 --> 00:13:55.429
this year, what do you feel like you need to

00:13:55.429 --> 00:13:58.889
work on for the future? For bouldering, probably

00:13:58.889 --> 00:14:02.269
explosiveness and commitment, and then lead,

00:14:02.330 --> 00:14:05.970
just climbing faster and more efficient. I guess,

00:14:05.970 --> 00:14:08.610
what are you doing to work on those? Or I guess

00:14:08.610 --> 00:14:10.090
you haven't started training yet for the next

00:14:10.090 --> 00:14:12.490
season, but what's your plan? Honestly, next

00:14:12.490 --> 00:14:14.570
year, I think I'm going to focus a little bit

00:14:14.570 --> 00:14:17.700
more on bouldering. I don't really have too much

00:14:17.700 --> 00:14:20.720
of a plan yet for lead, but I'll probably start

00:14:20.720 --> 00:14:23.779
doing a lot more lifting and stuff like that.

00:14:24.419 --> 00:14:27.299
I mean, I did lift last year, but it wasn't very

00:14:27.299 --> 00:14:29.299
intentional. This year, I kind of want to be

00:14:29.299 --> 00:14:31.919
more intentional with what I'm doing. Okay. Why

00:14:31.919 --> 00:14:34.419
the focus on boulder for next year? I kind of

00:14:34.419 --> 00:14:37.940
want to not suck at coordination moves anymore

00:14:37.940 --> 00:14:39.720
because I feel like I have a reputation for,

00:14:39.759 --> 00:14:43.539
I don't know, the climber that can never do coordination.

00:14:45.710 --> 00:14:47.850
I don't know. I guess people just expect me to

00:14:47.850 --> 00:14:49.950
not do cordo moves and stuff like that. And I

00:14:49.950 --> 00:14:52.850
just kind of want to change that. Want to prove

00:14:52.850 --> 00:14:56.269
them wrong. Yeah, exactly. Yeah. I mean, I guess

00:14:56.269 --> 00:14:59.269
you, I feel like you more so have a reputation

00:14:59.269 --> 00:15:02.629
to like try to static it, but then eventually

00:15:02.629 --> 00:15:05.649
you can still do the coordination move. You just

00:15:05.649 --> 00:15:09.950
don't do it to start with. I mean, in some cases,

00:15:09.950 --> 00:15:14.019
maybe, but. In finals in Seoul, the first boulder,

00:15:14.179 --> 00:15:17.580
I just felt so far off of that. I felt like there

00:15:17.580 --> 00:15:19.899
was no possible way I could do it, which was

00:15:19.899 --> 00:15:23.120
really weird. It was like a swing to a press

00:15:23.120 --> 00:15:26.299
and then a paddle finish. And where did you get

00:15:26.299 --> 00:15:29.179
on that one? I got to the last move. It took

00:15:29.179 --> 00:15:31.620
me a while to get up there, though. Yeah, what

00:15:31.620 --> 00:15:34.500
about that one specifically felt weird? Or is

00:15:34.500 --> 00:15:36.519
there a certain type of coordination that you

00:15:36.519 --> 00:15:39.039
feel like you're worse at? Because, I mean, there's

00:15:39.039 --> 00:15:41.720
a lot of different kinds. I don't know when there's

00:15:41.720 --> 00:15:44.159
like so many like complex hand foot movements

00:15:44.159 --> 00:15:46.340
it really like throws me off it's hard to like

00:15:46.340 --> 00:15:50.860
focus on each movement or each move one at a

00:15:50.860 --> 00:15:53.000
time I just kind of like blur everything into

00:15:53.000 --> 00:15:57.340
one so yeah and also the first move for some

00:15:57.340 --> 00:16:00.960
reason just felt really big for me so every time

00:16:00.960 --> 00:16:02.799
I would like get that move I would be scared

00:16:02.799 --> 00:16:04.500
to commit to the last move because I was like

00:16:04.500 --> 00:16:06.720
oh what if I don't make it back to the 10 zone

00:16:07.230 --> 00:16:09.590
Are you one of the shorter climbers? I don't

00:16:09.590 --> 00:16:12.990
actually know your height. I'm 5 '4". Oh, okay.

00:16:13.129 --> 00:16:16.070
So I'm pretty average. Okay. Well, good to know

00:16:16.070 --> 00:16:18.110
that you'll be working on that for next season.

00:16:18.289 --> 00:16:21.230
I hope to see you commit to some more coordination

00:16:21.230 --> 00:16:25.250
moves for next year's bouldering. Yeah, me too.

00:16:25.669 --> 00:16:29.389
And thinking back on like 2025 season, do you

00:16:29.389 --> 00:16:31.190
have any like favorite or least favorite moments?

00:16:31.570 --> 00:16:34.809
I mean, I think my favorite moment was winning.

00:16:35.440 --> 00:16:38.220
Like the World Cup in Madrid. That was pretty

00:16:38.220 --> 00:16:42.159
special to me. I don't know. I've always been

00:16:42.159 --> 00:16:44.259
like characterized as a lead climber. So I guess

00:16:44.259 --> 00:16:46.120
winning like a lead World Cup was pretty cool.

00:16:46.419 --> 00:16:49.419
Yeah. And that was your first lead goal. Yeah.

00:16:49.659 --> 00:16:51.980
Yeah. I think being characterized as a lead climber,

00:16:52.000 --> 00:16:53.940
it's like surprising that was your first lead

00:16:53.940 --> 00:16:56.960
goal. And you had like a couple boulder goals

00:16:56.960 --> 00:16:59.960
before that. Yeah. When you are traveling for

00:16:59.960 --> 00:17:03.750
World Cups. How much time do you get to actually

00:17:03.750 --> 00:17:09.430
enjoy your travel versus just like being nervous

00:17:09.430 --> 00:17:12.650
for a competition? I mean, I wouldn't say I'm

00:17:12.650 --> 00:17:16.450
like super nervous for competitions, but there's

00:17:16.450 --> 00:17:18.369
not like a ton of time to go out and like do

00:17:18.369 --> 00:17:20.769
sightseeing and stuff like that. Because like,

00:17:20.789 --> 00:17:23.430
even if we're like not competing, we have to

00:17:23.430 --> 00:17:25.529
still like maintain our shape during in between

00:17:25.529 --> 00:17:28.789
the competitions. But like, I guess the little

00:17:28.789 --> 00:17:31.259
time that we do have is pretty enjoyable. Yeah,

00:17:31.279 --> 00:17:32.960
do you have like a favorite place to travel in

00:17:32.960 --> 00:17:35.299
the world for World Cups? I mean, we haven't

00:17:35.299 --> 00:17:38.259
had a World Cup there since like, what was it?

00:17:38.500 --> 00:17:44.200
2022, 2023, but probably Japan. Oh, right. I

00:17:44.200 --> 00:17:46.500
love Japan. Yeah, I mean, when you were saying

00:17:46.500 --> 00:17:50.319
that you haven't had a World Cup since a while

00:17:50.319 --> 00:17:53.079
ago, I mean, you didn't even start doing World

00:17:53.079 --> 00:17:56.539
Cups until a few years ago, right? Yeah. Yeah,

00:17:56.539 --> 00:18:01.869
okay. Because the minimum age is 16? Uh, it used

00:18:01.869 --> 00:18:05.170
to be like 15. You had to be like turning

00:18:05.170 --> 00:18:06.950
that year. But now it's you have to be turning

00:18:06.950 --> 00:18:09.789
17 that year. I heard rumors that they were even

00:18:09.789 --> 00:18:13.990
raising the age to 18. But I don't think I don't

00:18:13.990 --> 00:18:16.029
think that's official yet. Yeah, I think you're

00:18:16.029 --> 00:18:17.829
definitely one of probably like the youngest

00:18:17.829 --> 00:18:20.970
climbers that I've interviewed so far. So it's

00:18:20.970 --> 00:18:23.269
crazy how far you've come being so young. Thank

00:18:23.269 --> 00:18:27.890
you. What are your goals for 2026? I think honestly

00:18:27.890 --> 00:18:30.130
just like the same that they were this year just

00:18:30.130 --> 00:18:34.769
like continue training going to world cups competing

00:18:34.769 --> 00:18:37.690
and seeing how I do because there's honestly

00:18:37.690 --> 00:18:40.829
not really I mean my big goal is like of course

00:18:40.829 --> 00:18:44.990
LA 2028 so these next couple of seasons are like

00:18:44.990 --> 00:18:47.309
pretty chill for me Speaking of the Olympics,

00:18:47.529 --> 00:18:50.130
I mean, I know a lot of the top athletes took

00:18:50.130 --> 00:18:54.190
a break this year from competing to, like, rest

00:18:54.190 --> 00:18:58.170
from the Olympic season. I mean, like, of course,

00:18:58.190 --> 00:19:00.569
Janja only chose a few competitions to go to.

00:19:01.029 --> 00:19:04.789
How confident do you feel in, like, competing

00:19:04.789 --> 00:19:08.130
against them in the future? I mean, I honestly

00:19:08.130 --> 00:19:10.390
don't think too much about it because I feel

00:19:10.390 --> 00:19:13.269
like I'm not really that competitive with other

00:19:13.269 --> 00:19:15.720
people. I'm more like... competitive with myself

00:19:15.720 --> 00:19:18.700
so like if i do bad at a comp i'm mad at myself

00:19:18.700 --> 00:19:20.920
like not mad that i didn't podium or whatever

00:19:20.920 --> 00:19:23.160
yeah and i guess when you mentioned your goals

00:19:23.160 --> 00:19:26.579
none of it included like a specific medal count

00:19:26.579 --> 00:19:29.759
or podiuming so i guess it's good in that way

00:19:29.759 --> 00:19:34.019
yeah so you don't even think about like who to

00:19:34.019 --> 00:19:36.440
watch out for like i mean especially when it

00:19:36.440 --> 00:19:40.500
comes to getting olympic spots um i mean there's

00:19:40.500 --> 00:19:43.279
probably still only gonna be like two per gender

00:19:43.279 --> 00:19:47.089
per country I mean, it might be one. I heard

00:19:47.089 --> 00:19:51.269
rumors that it's one. Whoa. I guess we'll see.

00:19:52.170 --> 00:19:54.069
Yeah, it's definitely going to be hard to qualify,

00:19:54.250 --> 00:19:56.009
but I'm trying not to think too much about it

00:19:56.009 --> 00:19:59.410
since that's so far ahead in the future. Interesting

00:19:59.410 --> 00:20:02.930
to hear about the one rumors. I don't know if

00:20:02.930 --> 00:20:06.029
it's true, but I heard rumors. Yeah, it's hard

00:20:06.029 --> 00:20:07.970
to get into rumors because I know definitely

00:20:07.970 --> 00:20:12.250
people, yeah, it changes a lot. But I mean, what's

00:20:12.250 --> 00:20:16.329
the... purpose of the one per gender per country

00:20:16.329 --> 00:20:20.190
rumor because that's that yeah that makes it

00:20:20.190 --> 00:20:22.890
really difficult yeah I honestly have no idea

00:20:22.890 --> 00:20:25.809
I cannot tell you how confident would you feel

00:20:25.809 --> 00:20:27.789
if it was like a combined qualifiers like would

00:20:27.789 --> 00:20:32.049
you prefer that I think I would I honestly don't

00:20:32.049 --> 00:20:35.390
know it's I think it's too early to tell but

00:20:35.720 --> 00:20:38.339
I think I do strive more like in combined disciplines

00:20:38.339 --> 00:20:41.059
because I'm like good at both. Do you not have

00:20:41.059 --> 00:20:43.200
like any plan to do the lead season for next

00:20:43.200 --> 00:20:46.299
year? No, I'm pre -qualified for the lead season,

00:20:46.359 --> 00:20:48.319
so I'll still do it, but I just won't train it

00:20:48.319 --> 00:20:52.220
as much as I have been. Okay, so then going into

00:20:52.220 --> 00:20:55.220
what your training looks like, what does your

00:20:55.220 --> 00:20:57.339
training schedule look like? Like number of days

00:20:57.339 --> 00:21:00.640
a week? Hours a day. If you're interested in

00:21:00.640 --> 00:21:02.759
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help out non -monetarily, liking, commenting,

00:21:25.480 --> 00:21:28.299
and sharing helps a great deal as well. back

00:21:28.299 --> 00:21:32.160
to the show i climb like five days a week and

00:21:32.160 --> 00:21:35.539
i also swim twice a week and lift like two to

00:21:35.539 --> 00:21:39.119
three times a week but for yeah for climbing

00:21:39.119 --> 00:21:44.519
i would say i'm in the gym like five to six hours

00:21:44.519 --> 00:21:47.779
max maybe seven on longer days then i also do

00:21:47.779 --> 00:21:50.200
some like at home exercises since i live so far

00:21:50.200 --> 00:21:53.079
from the gym but i'm pretty much like working

00:21:53.079 --> 00:21:56.500
out all day I'm surprised that you live so far

00:21:56.500 --> 00:21:59.779
from the gym because yeah I feel like usually

00:21:59.779 --> 00:22:02.539
at this at a certain point at a certain level

00:22:02.539 --> 00:22:05.359
people are like trying to I don't know optimize

00:22:05.359 --> 00:22:07.779
their schedule as much as possible. I really

00:22:07.779 --> 00:22:09.599
just don't have the money to like move out right

00:22:09.599 --> 00:22:12.640
now and I'm trying to like save up for much more

00:22:12.640 --> 00:22:15.059
like needed expenses and stuff like that for

00:22:15.059 --> 00:22:18.339
like traveling and funding my training and stuff

00:22:18.339 --> 00:22:21.269
like that but yeah it takes me like 30 to

00:22:21.269 --> 00:22:23.170
minutes to get to the gym every day. Sometimes

00:22:23.170 --> 00:22:26.210
even longer if I want to go to a big, a different

00:22:26.210 --> 00:22:29.109
gym. Is there any like one thing you did that

00:22:29.109 --> 00:22:31.569
you feel like made you level up in your climbing

00:22:31.569 --> 00:22:35.569
ability? Uh, I feel like, I don't know if it

00:22:35.569 --> 00:22:37.910
made me level up, but I feel like the more I

00:22:37.910 --> 00:22:41.150
board climb and the more I spray wall, like the

00:22:41.150 --> 00:22:44.690
stronger I feel. Which I guess makes sense because

00:22:44.690 --> 00:22:47.130
it's just like pure power training. But yeah.

00:22:47.849 --> 00:22:50.349
So I think this offseason, I'm going to be doing

00:22:50.349 --> 00:22:52.829
a lot more of that type of stuff. You feel like

00:22:52.829 --> 00:22:55.329
it helps with comp movement or comp climbing

00:22:55.329 --> 00:22:58.269
too? I don't know. I guess just power boulders

00:22:58.269 --> 00:23:02.809
and feeling strong. I don't really have access

00:23:02.809 --> 00:23:05.150
to a lot of comp boulders and stuff like that.

00:23:05.190 --> 00:23:07.869
They don't really set that here in Dallas. So

00:23:07.869 --> 00:23:10.450
it's hard to train on that type of stuff. So

00:23:10.450 --> 00:23:13.450
a couple of thoughts come to mind. Well, I guess,

00:23:13.509 --> 00:23:17.039
so one, for me, I always feel like... If you

00:23:17.039 --> 00:23:20.200
board climb a lot, you just get really good at

00:23:20.200 --> 00:23:24.240
board climbing. Is that an incorrect take, you

00:23:24.240 --> 00:23:27.180
think? No, I think that's correct. But I feel

00:23:27.180 --> 00:23:29.880
like if you also supplement it with spray walling,

00:23:29.920 --> 00:23:34.039
it could help on power -focused boulders in a

00:23:34.039 --> 00:23:36.339
World Cup. Yeah, I mean, in terms of your gym

00:23:36.339 --> 00:23:40.660
access, are there climbs that are hard enough

00:23:40.660 --> 00:23:43.000
for you? I would say the route setters in the

00:23:43.000 --> 00:23:45.829
DFW area are like... pretty strong so they do

00:23:45.829 --> 00:23:48.089
set some hard stuff for like themselves to work

00:23:48.089 --> 00:23:51.569
on and I do get on those boulders but they're

00:23:51.569 --> 00:23:53.910
just like all commercial style and it's not really

00:23:53.910 --> 00:23:57.029
anything I would see like in a world cup so it's

00:23:57.029 --> 00:24:00.289
like I don't know I guess hard to train in the

00:24:00.289 --> 00:24:03.690
gyms I mean I did used to have access to the

00:24:03.690 --> 00:24:07.349
team Texas training centers but ever since like

00:24:07.349 --> 00:24:09.630
movement bought all the gyms and kind of like

00:24:09.630 --> 00:24:11.490
took over they've been making it like a real

00:24:11.880 --> 00:24:15.539
pain to like get access to those gyms oh okay

00:24:15.539 --> 00:24:19.359
i think leaving up to the soul world cup i've

00:24:19.359 --> 00:24:21.980
been on a spray wall like one time and that was

00:24:21.980 --> 00:24:27.339
in salt lake yeah same it has been like pretty

00:24:27.339 --> 00:24:30.019
difficult to like train maybe you need some contacts

00:24:30.019 --> 00:24:34.099
and in terms of like team texas uh yeah i guess

00:24:34.099 --> 00:24:35.900
like what happened there like you used to have

00:24:35.900 --> 00:24:38.720
access to their training facilities but now you

00:24:38.720 --> 00:24:43.859
don't yeah so like Before movement bought like

00:24:43.859 --> 00:24:47.099
the gyms and everything, I would just like go

00:24:47.099 --> 00:24:49.680
in with one of the coaches and like train for

00:24:49.680 --> 00:24:51.779
like three to four hours or something like that.

00:24:51.880 --> 00:24:55.500
But now movement like has all these like strict

00:24:55.500 --> 00:24:57.519
rules like, oh, you have to have a movement employee

00:24:57.519 --> 00:25:00.619
in here. Oh, you can only go during these times.

00:25:00.779 --> 00:25:04.160
And I don't know, I guess since all a lot of

00:25:04.160 --> 00:25:06.839
my friends have like left movement because they've.

00:25:07.210 --> 00:25:09.230
i don't know i guess just like gotten tired of

00:25:09.230 --> 00:25:12.109
working with them so i just haven't had anyone

00:25:12.109 --> 00:25:15.549
to go into the tcs with yeah i find that surprising

00:25:15.549 --> 00:25:18.970
because i mean usually world cup athletes kind

00:25:18.970 --> 00:25:21.009
of get access to any gym they want to get access

00:25:21.009 --> 00:25:23.890
to right every time we call the higher -ups they're

00:25:23.890 --> 00:25:25.589
like oh yeah we want to help we want to help

00:25:25.589 --> 00:25:28.130
but then they just like don't do anything about

00:25:28.130 --> 00:25:31.230
it they're like yeah i'm sorry we can't give

00:25:31.230 --> 00:25:34.599
you access but like we want to help so like Yeah,

00:25:34.619 --> 00:25:37.160
I don't really get what their viewpoint is. You

00:25:37.160 --> 00:25:40.200
had mentioned that access to training facilities

00:25:40.200 --> 00:25:42.759
and resources makes a big difference with competitions.

00:25:44.440 --> 00:25:47.279
Can you just like elaborate on that a bit? Like,

00:25:47.400 --> 00:25:50.839
how is your access lacking now? And how do you

00:25:50.839 --> 00:25:53.140
feel like it will improve in the future? If you

00:25:53.140 --> 00:25:55.700
have like access to comp style boulders, of course,

00:25:55.720 --> 00:25:58.619
you're going to thrive in that area. If you don't,

00:25:58.619 --> 00:26:01.630
then you're not going to. I mean, back in the

00:26:01.630 --> 00:26:05.349
day, the coaches used to set like pretty hard

00:26:05.349 --> 00:26:08.809
comp style boulders for like the male, a male

00:26:08.809 --> 00:26:11.890
junior categories. And I would get on those type

00:26:11.890 --> 00:26:15.450
of stuff. But now I just haven't had access to

00:26:15.450 --> 00:26:18.210
that in like the past year or so. So it's been

00:26:18.210 --> 00:26:20.269
pretty hard to like train on those style blocks.

00:26:20.809 --> 00:26:23.049
The only time I actually can train on those is

00:26:23.049 --> 00:26:25.349
when I like fly out to Salt Lake. But I can only

00:26:25.349 --> 00:26:27.750
do that like so many times. And so that's why

00:26:27.750 --> 00:26:31.700
you use like spray walling a lot. Well, the training

00:26:31.700 --> 00:26:34.180
center is actually like where the spray wall

00:26:34.180 --> 00:26:36.299
is located and I haven't had access to that.

00:26:36.440 --> 00:26:38.920
So I've pretty much like leading up to Korea,

00:26:38.960 --> 00:26:41.240
I've just pretty much been board climbing and

00:26:41.240 --> 00:26:44.000
climbing out of the gyms. Whoa, really? Yeah,

00:26:44.079 --> 00:26:47.420
I did go to Salt Lake for a week, but yeah, it

00:26:47.420 --> 00:26:50.220
was very minimal. Yeah, I can only imagine because

00:26:50.220 --> 00:26:53.799
I mean, calm climbing is a very specific type

00:26:53.799 --> 00:26:58.529
of movement. Yeah, well, I can't imagine like

00:26:58.529 --> 00:27:01.150
trying to learn that without having access to,

00:27:01.250 --> 00:27:03.769
I don't know, maybe like the hold styles and

00:27:03.769 --> 00:27:06.049
like the specific setting. Yeah, I guess now

00:27:06.049 --> 00:27:09.470
you're like static style makes a lot more sense

00:27:09.470 --> 00:27:12.910
now to me. Yeah, pretty much like all that I

00:27:12.910 --> 00:27:15.710
focus on. Well, so yeah, with your upcoming like

00:27:15.710 --> 00:27:18.589
2026 goal of focusing on bouldering and coordination

00:27:18.589 --> 00:27:21.809
moves, how do you plan to get that experience?

00:27:22.430 --> 00:27:25.960
I think I'll be flying. down or up to Salt Lake

00:27:25.960 --> 00:27:30.259
a lot more often. And also one of the coaches

00:27:30.259 --> 00:27:32.779
is opening a new training center in the Dallas

00:27:32.779 --> 00:27:35.079
area. I can't really like talk too much about

00:27:35.079 --> 00:27:37.460
it, but I think it'll be a good thing. Okay.

00:27:37.500 --> 00:27:41.779
So then moving on into, I guess, a little bit

00:27:41.779 --> 00:27:47.380
of your lifestyle. I mean, you just graduated

00:27:47.380 --> 00:27:50.500
high school, right? Yeah, I did in the spring.

00:27:51.049 --> 00:27:52.990
were you just doing like public school or was

00:27:52.990 --> 00:27:57.269
it like homeschooling it's a public online school

00:27:57.269 --> 00:27:59.509
so it's pretty much like the exact same thing

00:27:59.509 --> 00:28:01.150
that you would be doing in a public school but

00:28:01.150 --> 00:28:03.470
all online I've been doing it since seventh grade

00:28:03.470 --> 00:28:06.130
so yeah does that make it easier to like balance

00:28:06.130 --> 00:28:08.890
school and climbing at the same time uh yeah

00:28:08.890 --> 00:28:11.230
definitely I mean like for like the assignments

00:28:11.230 --> 00:28:14.450
we still have due dates but we can like work

00:28:14.450 --> 00:28:17.109
as far ahead as we want or like whenever we want

00:28:17.109 --> 00:28:20.059
throughout the day so It's pretty flexible. Do

00:28:20.059 --> 00:28:23.240
you plan on doing like further education or college

00:28:23.240 --> 00:28:25.079
or you're just going to be focusing on climbing

00:28:25.079 --> 00:28:28.700
like the upcoming year? Definitely further education.

00:28:28.779 --> 00:28:31.960
I was going to start college and like this month,

00:28:31.960 --> 00:28:35.319
actually, but I decided to just like take a gap

00:28:35.319 --> 00:28:38.640
semester just to like fully relax and recover

00:28:38.640 --> 00:28:41.500
after the season. But I'll be starting college

00:28:41.500 --> 00:28:45.720
next year in the spring. Exciting. What are you

00:28:45.720 --> 00:28:48.519
like? What's your major? Uh, digital marketing.

00:28:48.779 --> 00:28:50.500
That was something I was considering getting

00:28:50.500 --> 00:28:54.519
into and then it didn't work out. So I'm back

00:28:54.519 --> 00:28:57.220
to my usual stuff, but, uh, are you like going

00:28:57.220 --> 00:28:59.859
to stay at home doing that? Or I know a lot of,

00:28:59.859 --> 00:29:03.740
uh, US comp climbers end up moving to the Salt

00:29:03.740 --> 00:29:07.220
Lake area for better training facilities. I honestly

00:29:07.220 --> 00:29:09.460
don't know yet. I really want to move to Salt

00:29:09.460 --> 00:29:10.980
Lake, but I just don't really have the money

00:29:10.980 --> 00:29:15.099
to do that right now. Don't really get a lot

00:29:15.099 --> 00:29:19.920
of funding from sponsors, but yeah, I guess we'll

00:29:19.920 --> 00:29:21.799
see. For right now, I'll be staying at home and

00:29:21.799 --> 00:29:24.900
doing school. Do you feel like, well, so first

00:29:24.900 --> 00:29:27.019
of all, like USA Climbing doesn't provide any

00:29:27.019 --> 00:29:30.819
like stipend for winning comps or being on the

00:29:30.819 --> 00:29:33.759
US team or anything like that? No, they do fund

00:29:33.759 --> 00:29:36.759
like most of our big expenses, like flights and

00:29:36.759 --> 00:29:38.940
hotels and stuff like that, but that's pretty

00:29:38.940 --> 00:29:43.230
much it. And in terms of like... Making money

00:29:43.230 --> 00:29:46.670
from winning competitions that you go to, it's

00:29:46.670 --> 00:29:51.509
not much. It's very minimal, yeah. Definitely

00:29:51.509 --> 00:29:56.289
not enough to live off of. I know a lot of competitors

00:29:56.289 --> 00:30:00.230
in the U .S. end up going to local comps to make

00:30:00.230 --> 00:30:03.630
a bit more money. I feel like you would be kind

00:30:03.630 --> 00:30:07.390
of a shoo -in for getting first place. So is

00:30:07.390 --> 00:30:10.549
that something you do much? I mean, I used to

00:30:10.549 --> 00:30:13.309
do those in the past, but I don't know. It's

00:30:13.309 --> 00:30:15.529
just after such a long season, I'm just like

00:30:15.529 --> 00:30:18.549
so tired. And like the last thing I want to be

00:30:18.549 --> 00:30:20.529
doing is like traveling and doing another comp.

00:30:21.069 --> 00:30:23.410
I just want to be like relaxing and maybe go

00:30:23.410 --> 00:30:26.450
outdoor climbing. So do you have like a preference

00:30:26.450 --> 00:30:28.769
for outdoor climbing? I don't think I see much

00:30:28.769 --> 00:30:33.170
info about your like outdoor sense. I definitely

00:30:33.170 --> 00:30:35.390
do enjoy it a lot, but I just don't get outside

00:30:35.390 --> 00:30:37.329
that much since I'm like pretty much competing

00:30:37.329 --> 00:30:41.099
the entire year. Or like training for it. But

00:30:41.099 --> 00:30:44.180
yeah, I might do a little bit this like coming

00:30:44.180 --> 00:30:46.539
month or next month. Yeah, I guess now would

00:30:46.539 --> 00:30:49.119
be the time since you're taking a break. Where

00:30:49.119 --> 00:30:51.799
are you planning on going outside? We're thinking

00:30:51.799 --> 00:30:55.880
about maybe rifle. Just like a fun trip. Maybe

00:30:55.880 --> 00:30:59.039
not like try anything super hard. Like a family

00:30:59.039 --> 00:31:03.519
trip? Yeah. So you don't have any like big ascents

00:31:03.519 --> 00:31:06.819
that you're planning on doing outside? Not really.

00:31:06.980 --> 00:31:09.099
I'm kind of just going with the flow right now.

00:31:09.440 --> 00:31:12.680
I mean, I was working on Golden Ticket last year,

00:31:12.740 --> 00:31:15.880
but I really don't think I'm in shape for that

00:31:15.880 --> 00:31:18.140
route right now. Okay. If I'm being completely

00:31:18.140 --> 00:31:22.480
honest. What is Golden Ticket? It's 14C in the

00:31:22.480 --> 00:31:25.359
red, although I do think it's harder than that.

00:31:26.240 --> 00:31:29.380
I sent Pure Imagination, which is to the left

00:31:29.380 --> 00:31:32.980
of it, third go on that trip, and that one's

00:31:32.980 --> 00:31:36.140
also rated 14C. And then I like got on golden

00:31:36.140 --> 00:31:39.299
ticket and it felt like at least two or three

00:31:39.299 --> 00:31:43.759
grades harder, maybe two grades. So at least

00:31:43.759 --> 00:31:47.440
for me, I feel, yeah, I feel like for that route,

00:31:47.539 --> 00:31:50.559
it's a lot easier if you're taller. For me, it's

00:31:50.559 --> 00:31:53.220
hard to conceptualize what it means to be in

00:31:53.220 --> 00:31:58.519
shape for a certain route or for a certain outdoor

00:31:58.519 --> 00:32:02.019
bouldering season versus indoor competition bouldering

00:32:02.019 --> 00:32:06.039
season. What does that mean to you? It may not

00:32:06.039 --> 00:32:08.119
seem like it, but I feel like my endurance is

00:32:08.119 --> 00:32:10.960
not that great right now because I haven't really

00:32:10.960 --> 00:32:14.640
been training it that much. Maybe if I train

00:32:14.640 --> 00:32:16.740
it a little bit, I could get into shape pretty

00:32:16.740 --> 00:32:20.769
fast. I don't know. It's not really something

00:32:20.769 --> 00:32:23.470
that I'm like too focused on. Well, best of luck

00:32:23.470 --> 00:32:26.970
to your outdoor adventures. Thank you. Outside

00:32:26.970 --> 00:32:29.349
of climbing in school, do you feel like you have

00:32:29.349 --> 00:32:32.650
time for any other hobbies? I mean, honestly,

00:32:32.829 --> 00:32:37.269
not really. Like I feel like earlier in the year,

00:32:37.289 --> 00:32:39.769
all I was doing was just like climbing in school.

00:32:39.869 --> 00:32:41.730
And now that I have a bunch of free time, I just

00:32:41.730 --> 00:32:43.349
don't really don't really know what to do with

00:32:43.349 --> 00:32:46.470
myself. Kind of just like sitting at home doing

00:32:46.470 --> 00:32:50.230
nothing. Oh, really? Yeah. You haven't like picked

00:32:50.230 --> 00:32:53.190
up anything new? I mean, I've been like lifting

00:32:53.190 --> 00:32:55.730
and stuff like that, but not climbing. Just like

00:32:55.730 --> 00:32:59.829
scrolling online or? Yeah, taking naps from the

00:32:59.829 --> 00:33:02.529
jet lag. Right. Yeah, that makes sense. I would

00:33:02.529 --> 00:33:05.269
recommend, I recommend this to everyone. I don't

00:33:05.269 --> 00:33:08.529
know why. I really like crocheting. I'll have

00:33:08.529 --> 00:33:11.849
to try that out. Yeah. A lot of my friends do

00:33:11.849 --> 00:33:15.130
crocheting. I started it with one of those, I

00:33:15.130 --> 00:33:16.990
don't know if you've ever seen like the ads,

00:33:17.170 --> 00:33:21.190
but it's called like WooWools and it has like

00:33:21.190 --> 00:33:23.750
kids. Oh yeah, I've seen that, yeah. Yeah, that's

00:33:23.750 --> 00:33:26.170
how I like started it. I don't even know why

00:33:26.170 --> 00:33:28.329
I talk about it so much. I don't even do it right

00:33:28.329 --> 00:33:30.309
now because I don't have time for it. But it's

00:33:30.309 --> 00:33:33.490
like when I do have time, I think I want to get

00:33:33.490 --> 00:33:36.410
into that. Yeah, I'll have to check it out. Okay,

00:33:36.490 --> 00:33:40.019
so. Getting into some of the audience questions,

00:33:40.319 --> 00:33:44.380
in some professions, a person can dislike or

00:33:44.380 --> 00:33:46.700
at least like not love their job, but still excel

00:33:46.700 --> 00:33:51.160
and spend a lot of time at work. How applicable

00:33:51.160 --> 00:33:54.019
do you feel like that is to climbing? Like if

00:33:54.019 --> 00:33:56.960
someone put in a lot of work, but weren't necessarily

00:33:56.960 --> 00:33:59.579
passionate about it, do you feel like they could

00:33:59.579 --> 00:34:03.779
still be at an elite level? I don't know. I don't

00:34:03.779 --> 00:34:07.519
really think so. I feel like you can't. I feel

00:34:07.519 --> 00:34:09.920
like it's not possible to spend that much time

00:34:09.920 --> 00:34:12.380
in a gym and put that much effort if you're not

00:34:12.380 --> 00:34:15.960
passionate about it. I mean, honestly, I don't

00:34:15.960 --> 00:34:17.900
think I'm the best person to ask because I love

00:34:17.900 --> 00:34:22.539
climbing, but I would think not. Do you remember

00:34:22.539 --> 00:34:26.440
moments during training where you just didn't

00:34:26.440 --> 00:34:29.079
really feel like doing it anymore? I mean, there's

00:34:29.079 --> 00:34:31.480
definitely times in my training where I'm frustrated

00:34:31.480 --> 00:34:37.570
because I'm not where I want to be at. I feel

00:34:37.570 --> 00:34:43.110
like there was never a time where I never enjoyed

00:34:43.110 --> 00:34:46.469
it, I guess. I don't know. I just, like, enjoy

00:34:46.469 --> 00:34:50.269
the grind. I enjoy, like, the pain. Yeah. You

00:34:50.269 --> 00:34:52.409
never had a moment where it was just like, oh,

00:34:52.409 --> 00:34:54.190
I feel like I want to quit climbing altogether?

00:34:54.909 --> 00:34:56.889
I mean, maybe after a comp, but that was just,

00:34:56.929 --> 00:34:59.369
like, for, like, 10, 15 minutes, and then I'm

00:34:59.369 --> 00:35:01.550
fine. I mean, what about, like, the training

00:35:01.550 --> 00:35:03.730
portion? I know a lot of athletes say that they

00:35:03.730 --> 00:35:06.670
also love, like, the training as well. Yeah,

00:35:06.690 --> 00:35:10.469
I really enjoy training. I actually find it more

00:35:10.469 --> 00:35:13.750
fun than comp sometimes. Oh, interesting. Okay.

00:35:13.829 --> 00:35:17.670
Just like the getting stronger portion? I think

00:35:17.670 --> 00:35:20.070
a lot of people have different ideas of what

00:35:20.070 --> 00:35:23.230
training entails. Is that just strength training

00:35:23.230 --> 00:35:27.949
or board stuff? Or what is training? I don't

00:35:27.949 --> 00:35:30.090
know. There's just a lot. Just getting stronger

00:35:30.090 --> 00:35:32.880
on the board and also... When I'm doing endurance

00:35:32.880 --> 00:35:35.559
on ropes, it's really easy for me to get locked

00:35:35.559 --> 00:35:39.099
in. And it feels like I'm just not getting pumped

00:35:39.099 --> 00:35:41.519
at all. And I can just keep climbing forever.

00:35:42.579 --> 00:35:46.320
So that's really fun. Okay. Good to know. Well,

00:35:46.420 --> 00:35:50.380
so earlier you had also mentioned that you don't

00:35:50.380 --> 00:35:53.599
really feel nervous for comps. I kind of wonder

00:35:53.599 --> 00:35:56.500
what goes through your mind leading up to and

00:35:56.500 --> 00:36:00.199
during a comp. I honestly... don't have much

00:36:00.199 --> 00:36:02.820
to say about that because I don't I try not to

00:36:02.820 --> 00:36:06.179
think too much about comps and like I like mentioned

00:36:06.179 --> 00:36:08.119
earlier I'm not super competitive with other

00:36:08.119 --> 00:36:11.420
people I'm more like competitive with myself

00:36:11.420 --> 00:36:13.860
so I guess there's not as much pressure there

00:36:13.860 --> 00:36:17.079
I'm just like trying to perform to the best of

00:36:17.079 --> 00:36:19.920
my abilities and like whatever happens happens

00:36:19.920 --> 00:36:25.199
okay so like if I'm mad or upset after a comp

00:36:25.199 --> 00:36:27.780
it's like because I didn't perform the way I

00:36:27.780 --> 00:36:31.019
want wanted to or like as well as I knew I'm

00:36:31.019 --> 00:36:35.239
capable of I mean yeah that makes sense um I

00:36:35.239 --> 00:36:38.559
know that mindset is a lot of thing is like a

00:36:38.559 --> 00:36:40.800
big thing that a lot of athletes struggle with

00:36:40.800 --> 00:36:44.179
and so especially as a younger competitor do

00:36:44.179 --> 00:36:46.599
you feel like you've had struggles with your

00:36:46.599 --> 00:36:50.280
mindset at all during competitions or like where

00:36:50.280 --> 00:36:52.980
you get into a negative space like during a competition

00:36:52.980 --> 00:36:56.469
I would say so yeah like when I'm not able to

00:36:56.469 --> 00:36:58.429
do a boulder it kind of does get into my head

00:36:58.429 --> 00:37:01.170
especially when it's like a boulder I know that

00:37:01.170 --> 00:37:05.050
I can do but I was like just too timid to like

00:37:05.050 --> 00:37:07.449
give it my all or like on a lead route I'm like

00:37:07.449 --> 00:37:10.190
getting to the head wall and I'm thinking oh

00:37:10.190 --> 00:37:12.769
what if my foot slips and that kind of like throws

00:37:12.769 --> 00:37:16.570
me off how do you like get back into the right

00:37:16.570 --> 00:37:18.989
mindset or get back get your head back into the

00:37:18.989 --> 00:37:21.929
game I honestly don't really have anything right

00:37:21.929 --> 00:37:23.510
now it's kind of something I'm still working

00:37:23.510 --> 00:37:27.239
on has it ever like ruined an entire comp for

00:37:27.239 --> 00:37:29.739
you like you maybe like on a first boulder you

00:37:29.739 --> 00:37:31.639
came out and it didn't go the way you wanted

00:37:31.639 --> 00:37:33.400
and then it kind of affected the rest of the

00:37:33.400 --> 00:37:36.940
competition yeah for sure definitely like Innsbruck

00:37:36.940 --> 00:37:40.460
finals was a big one because like looking at

00:37:40.460 --> 00:37:43.519
the boulders I felt pretty confident that I could

00:37:43.519 --> 00:37:47.059
do them and then I got out and I was trying the

00:37:47.059 --> 00:37:49.539
first boulder and I just had no idea what to

00:37:49.539 --> 00:37:52.320
do and it really frustrated me and I kind of

00:37:52.320 --> 00:37:54.389
just like threw off the whole round Yeah, do

00:37:54.389 --> 00:37:57.510
you remember what you were feeling like or what

00:37:57.510 --> 00:37:59.650
went through your mind the rest of that finals?

00:38:00.050 --> 00:38:02.429
I don't know. I think I was just so focused on

00:38:02.429 --> 00:38:06.610
like, oh, I didn't do the first boulder because

00:38:06.610 --> 00:38:10.409
I had no idea what to do. I was just so frustrated

00:38:10.409 --> 00:38:12.389
and so hard on myself that I couldn't really

00:38:12.389 --> 00:38:14.650
focus on giving it my all for the next three

00:38:14.650 --> 00:38:18.889
boulders. Even on the slab, which was a pretty

00:38:18.889 --> 00:38:22.429
easy boulder, I was just so frustrated that it

00:38:22.429 --> 00:38:24.639
took me like... three or four attempts to do

00:38:24.639 --> 00:38:27.699
it. I guess in those comps, I mean, you say that

00:38:27.699 --> 00:38:30.599
it's always just about like your own performance.

00:38:30.619 --> 00:38:32.960
Do you like pay attention to if other people

00:38:32.960 --> 00:38:36.980
are topping or getting zones or anything like

00:38:36.980 --> 00:38:39.539
that? Maybe a little bit, but it doesn't really

00:38:39.539 --> 00:38:42.960
affect me that much. So like if you say you like

00:38:42.960 --> 00:38:46.199
know that you need to top a boulder because other

00:38:46.199 --> 00:38:49.260
people have, there was like a window of opening

00:38:49.260 --> 00:38:52.409
for you to. take a gold or something like that.

00:38:52.449 --> 00:38:56.650
Does it motivate you more to try harder? I mean,

00:38:56.670 --> 00:38:59.269
I honestly don't know. I always try to try as

00:38:59.269 --> 00:39:03.289
hard as I possibly can, even if I'm like not

00:39:03.289 --> 00:39:06.730
going to win anything. So it's hard to say. Okay.

00:39:06.789 --> 00:39:08.670
So yeah, going back to some of the audience questions

00:39:08.670 --> 00:39:12.150
or the last two, they're both like mindset related.

00:39:12.969 --> 00:39:15.010
Have you ever worked with a sports psychologist

00:39:15.010 --> 00:39:18.809
and what are your thoughts on it? I started working

00:39:18.809 --> 00:39:24.909
with one recently this past month, but I don't

00:39:24.909 --> 00:39:28.090
know. It's honestly kind of weird for me. How

00:39:28.090 --> 00:39:32.329
so? I think I'm just not used to it, but I'm

00:39:32.329 --> 00:39:34.869
a pretty introverted person, so I'm not really

00:39:34.869 --> 00:39:37.570
used to talking and opening up to people. So

00:39:37.570 --> 00:39:40.170
it's kind of weird for me. How do you feel like

00:39:40.170 --> 00:39:43.650
it's going? Have you learned any strategies that

00:39:43.650 --> 00:39:45.630
you feel like have been helpful or things that

00:39:45.630 --> 00:39:48.349
you might want to do? take forward i mean honestly

00:39:48.349 --> 00:39:53.070
like not really damn okay but just blast the

00:39:53.070 --> 00:39:57.949
psychologist yeah sorry my bad but yeah i don't

00:39:57.949 --> 00:40:00.530
know well hopefully i mean it's only a month

00:40:00.530 --> 00:40:04.130
so wait it out and see yeah hopefully you'll

00:40:04.130 --> 00:40:09.130
get some uh helpful tips there and so the last

00:40:09.130 --> 00:40:12.130
one the last audience question was how do you

00:40:12.130 --> 00:40:14.090
manage pressure when it starts to get to you

00:40:14.519 --> 00:40:17.219
I don't know. I honestly feel like I don't feel

00:40:17.219 --> 00:40:21.019
pressure at comps, which is kind of a weird thing.

00:40:21.119 --> 00:40:25.960
But, like, I don't know. I guess when I, like,

00:40:25.960 --> 00:40:29.760
don't top a boulder, I can, like, get really

00:40:29.760 --> 00:40:35.559
hard on myself. But I guess I put the pressure

00:40:35.559 --> 00:40:37.639
on myself more than I, like, feel it from other

00:40:37.639 --> 00:40:40.480
people. Yeah, I mean, now that you've won, like,

00:40:40.519 --> 00:40:44.909
a few medals and golds do you feel like you have

00:40:44.909 --> 00:40:47.570
more expectations for yourself or like are you

00:40:47.570 --> 00:40:49.429
putting more pressure on yourself to perform

00:40:49.429 --> 00:40:54.349
and podium i mean not really i kind of like yeah

00:40:54.349 --> 00:40:57.929
i'm pretty chill okay that seems like a good

00:40:57.929 --> 00:41:00.510
way to go about it yeah i mean i guess especially

00:41:00.510 --> 00:41:02.969
since you mentioned like the next couple years

00:41:02.969 --> 00:41:06.210
it's not olympic season so it's just kind of

00:41:06.210 --> 00:41:09.789
like a fun time yeah i mean of course i want

00:41:09.789 --> 00:41:12.369
to like podium and win but like if i don't then

00:41:12.369 --> 00:41:16.530
I guess it's fine as long as I'm climbing strong.

00:41:16.769 --> 00:41:18.949
One of the healthier mindsets I've heard about

00:41:18.949 --> 00:41:23.610
competing. So do you like competition style boulders?

00:41:24.449 --> 00:41:29.030
I do. Yeah, I do really enjoy competing and being

00:41:29.030 --> 00:41:31.489
out on the stage and trying hard and stuff like

00:41:31.489 --> 00:41:35.469
that, but definitely need to work on those comp

00:41:35.469 --> 00:41:39.690
style moves. Another one. Again, about like having

00:41:39.690 --> 00:41:41.969
a lot of endurance and doing lead. Do you have

00:41:41.969 --> 00:41:45.730
any tips for lead climbing and endurance? I would

00:41:45.730 --> 00:41:49.170
just say like, honestly, just like climb a lot

00:41:49.170 --> 00:41:53.989
for pure endurance. Just like do like a bunch

00:41:53.989 --> 00:41:56.050
of routes. That's what I do when I'm just trying

00:41:56.050 --> 00:41:58.230
to build like a base endurance. I do like a minimum

00:41:58.230 --> 00:42:00.829
of like 15 to 20 routes, like I said earlier.

00:42:01.429 --> 00:42:04.449
Okay. You don't have like a endurance hangboarding

00:42:04.449 --> 00:42:08.630
routine? No. I do hangboard, but not for like

00:42:08.630 --> 00:42:11.150
endurance, just for pure finger strength. And

00:42:11.150 --> 00:42:14.610
so again, going back to you having a more like

00:42:14.610 --> 00:42:19.449
static climbing style. I know a lot of like gym

00:42:19.449 --> 00:42:22.449
climbers also don't really like big coordination

00:42:22.449 --> 00:42:25.449
moves or dynamic moves. So this might be really

00:42:25.449 --> 00:42:29.809
relatable to them. And you still manage to excel

00:42:29.809 --> 00:42:33.250
at like coordination moves in a static way too.

00:42:34.880 --> 00:42:37.619
Any tips for people with a more static and controlled

00:42:37.619 --> 00:42:41.179
style as they struggle on moves that ask for

00:42:41.179 --> 00:42:45.519
more dynamic movement? I mean, honestly, I would

00:42:45.519 --> 00:42:49.079
just say commit to the jump, commit to the quarto

00:42:49.079 --> 00:42:52.500
move, and eventually you're going to learn the

00:42:52.500 --> 00:42:55.920
movement and dial down the move, even if it takes

00:42:55.920 --> 00:42:58.980
you longer than maybe a more powerful climber

00:42:58.980 --> 00:43:02.150
would take on it. So you actually do not suggest

00:43:02.150 --> 00:43:04.969
people to follow your climbing style and try

00:43:04.969 --> 00:43:08.070
to beta break a dino? No, don't do that. Okay.

00:43:08.230 --> 00:43:10.969
Okay. Good to know. I mean, you could do both,

00:43:10.969 --> 00:43:14.750
honestly. Do the boulder twice. Okay. Well, people

00:43:14.750 --> 00:43:17.289
are going to hate to hear that one. Yeah. Yeah.

00:43:17.329 --> 00:43:19.809
Work on your weaknesses, I guess. And you'll

00:43:19.809 --> 00:43:23.349
be the leader for that as you work on your bouldering

00:43:23.349 --> 00:43:27.250
for 2026. Yeah, hopefully. Okay. And really quick

00:43:27.250 --> 00:43:32.719
last one. With your unique climbing style, does

00:43:32.719 --> 00:43:34.940
it make it difficult for you to collaborate with

00:43:34.940 --> 00:43:37.300
other athletes when you guys are previewing boulders

00:43:37.300 --> 00:43:40.079
or lead? I mean, honestly, most of the time,

00:43:40.079 --> 00:43:42.980
I feel like the beta is pretty straightforward.

00:43:43.159 --> 00:43:46.360
So we do agree with most of the movement, most

00:43:46.360 --> 00:43:51.099
of the beta. But I also don't really read the

00:43:51.099 --> 00:43:53.400
route with anyone usually because I'm pretty

00:43:53.400 --> 00:43:57.360
introverted. So I'm too shy to walk up to other

00:43:57.360 --> 00:44:01.000
people. ask about beta and stuff like that but

00:44:01.000 --> 00:44:03.260
it's something i'm trying to work on people don't

00:44:03.260 --> 00:44:04.940
like come up to you and try to ask for your beta

00:44:04.940 --> 00:44:08.420
no not really i mean yeah i guess i don't actually

00:44:08.420 --> 00:44:12.000
know what people are talking about when they're

00:44:12.000 --> 00:44:14.519
going through it like they just read it together

00:44:14.519 --> 00:44:17.360
or are they ever trying to like get specific

00:44:17.360 --> 00:44:20.880
info about how you're gonna do a climb i mean

00:44:20.880 --> 00:44:23.420
maybe like specific info on the more like complex

00:44:23.420 --> 00:44:26.239
movements so like a lead route is structured

00:44:26.239 --> 00:44:29.000
it's like pretty easy climbing and then maybe

00:44:29.000 --> 00:44:33.000
like a hard move and then like a powerful steep

00:44:33.000 --> 00:44:36.659
section and then like a slow finish on the headwall

00:44:36.659 --> 00:44:40.599
so like most of the time we would be like talking

00:44:40.599 --> 00:44:42.760
through the crux of the lead route are there

00:44:42.760 --> 00:44:44.820
certain athletes you're happy to see with you

00:44:44.820 --> 00:44:47.420
in finals because you feel like you think alike

00:44:47.420 --> 00:44:50.260
or climb alike and then you can collaborate better

00:44:50.260 --> 00:44:53.800
with them uh i mean honestly It's always fun

00:44:53.800 --> 00:44:56.019
to get to compete against all these girls because

00:44:56.019 --> 00:44:58.059
they're all super strong and super cool. But

00:44:58.059 --> 00:45:01.360
I think I'd have to say Jenny Buckley because

00:45:01.360 --> 00:45:03.619
she's one of my closest friends. So it's always

00:45:03.619 --> 00:45:06.760
cool to get to compete with her. Oh, okay. That's

00:45:06.760 --> 00:45:08.760
good to know. Yeah, she's so nice. I talked to

00:45:08.760 --> 00:45:12.119
her a little bit. Yeah, she's super fun to talk

00:45:12.119 --> 00:45:15.260
to. Yeah. Do you feel like you guys have similar

00:45:15.260 --> 00:45:18.739
climbing styles? Definitely not. She's a super

00:45:18.739 --> 00:45:21.940
dynamic climber. Like, complete opposites. I

00:45:21.940 --> 00:45:24.139
guess of, like, the other competitors, who do

00:45:24.139 --> 00:45:28.320
you feel like is most similar to you? I mean,

00:45:28.519 --> 00:45:32.559
I don't know. Probably the lead climbers. Maybe

00:45:32.559 --> 00:45:36.300
Chaeyeon Seo. Maybe, like, Imori, too. Although

00:45:36.300 --> 00:45:39.000
she is a lot shorter, so that might change things

00:45:39.000 --> 00:45:42.099
a bit. I mean, Chaeyeon is pretty good at bouldering,

00:45:42.099 --> 00:45:44.639
too, so I'd probably say her. Yeah, she also,

00:45:44.699 --> 00:45:47.219
like, went back and worked a lot on her bouldering.

00:45:47.750 --> 00:45:51.909
Yeah, she's super strong. Yeah. Well, I hope

00:45:51.909 --> 00:45:54.289
that it works out for you next season. I hope

00:45:54.289 --> 00:45:56.889
to see you do a lot more coordination moves and

00:45:56.889 --> 00:46:00.949
not feel too scared of them. I think that's all

00:46:00.949 --> 00:46:04.650
the questions I had for today then. Do you have

00:46:04.650 --> 00:46:07.630
any like last minute words of wisdom that you

00:46:07.630 --> 00:46:10.690
want to get out there for like maybe people who

00:46:10.690 --> 00:46:13.849
are trying to get into climbing or comp climbers?

00:46:14.110 --> 00:46:17.380
I mean, I don't know. I guess like. Keep training

00:46:17.380 --> 00:46:20.739
hard and having fun. Enjoy the process. All right.

00:46:20.760 --> 00:46:23.159
Cool. Anything else that you might want to shout

00:46:23.159 --> 00:46:25.159
out or let people know where they can find you?

00:46:25.559 --> 00:46:29.679
Get like sponsors? I mean, my Instagram is Annie

00:46:29.679 --> 00:46:34.219
.Sanders with an extra S at the end. But yeah,

00:46:34.340 --> 00:46:37.440
that's pretty much my main social media. I'm

00:46:37.440 --> 00:46:39.739
also on Red Note, actually. Oh, really? Annie

00:46:39.739 --> 00:46:44.579
.Sanders. Yeah. Okay. Red Note is like the Chinese?

00:46:44.579 --> 00:46:48.090
The Chinese TikTok. Yeah. Okay. why red note

00:46:48.090 --> 00:46:53.030
i have like a lot of fans in asia and china so

00:46:53.030 --> 00:46:56.050
i don't know a couple friends mentioned to me

00:46:56.050 --> 00:46:57.849
that it might be like a good idea to start a

00:46:57.849 --> 00:47:00.570
social media platform on there or a social media

00:47:00.570 --> 00:47:04.250
account okay gotcha okay sounds good well i will

00:47:04.250 --> 00:47:06.510
link those below hopefully i can find the red

00:47:06.510 --> 00:47:08.730
note one i've never had anyone try to share their

00:47:08.730 --> 00:47:12.090
red notes so i'll take a look there Yeah, that's

00:47:12.090 --> 00:47:14.570
all I have then. Thank you again. It was amazing

00:47:14.570 --> 00:47:17.389
to talk to you. Yeah, thank you. Thank you so

00:47:17.389 --> 00:47:19.449
much for making it to the end of the podcast.

00:47:19.849 --> 00:47:22.269
Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed.

00:47:22.489 --> 00:47:26.070
Otherwise, you are a super big climber. If you're

00:47:26.070 --> 00:47:28.510
listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate

00:47:28.510 --> 00:47:31.230
if you rate it five stars and you can continue

00:47:31.230 --> 00:47:34.010
the discussion on the free competition climbing

00:47:34.010 --> 00:47:37.010
discord linked in the description. Thanks again

00:47:37.010 --> 00:47:37.489
for listening.