53: Emma Edwards, Team GB One-to-Watch

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I was just talking to one of my friends in the

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bathroom and then she walked out of one of the

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stalls and we looked at each other and we were

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like, oh my gosh, it's Janja. So then we went

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to ISO. I just was talking to one of my coaches

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like, I can't do it. I felt sick, I was falling

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asleep. It was only my third World Cup and being

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in finals felt crazy. So I was just so, so excited.

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And then when it was cancelled... I was yeah

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really upset my first thought was like oh no

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what if I'd never make a finals again they'll

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just like make a comment or say like oh like

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if I was as light as you I'd do that climb Welcome

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to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing

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podcast. I'm your host, Jinni, and I'm excited

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to introduce my guest for today, Emma Edwards.

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Emma is a boulder on Team GB, and 2025 was her

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debut in the senior World Cup circuit, and she's

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already made a World Cup finals. However, if

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you don't recognize her, it may be because that

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was Prague where her finals got rained out. In

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this episode, we'll go over all the mishaps that

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happened at Prague, including an allergic reaction.

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We'll learn about her training schedule, Team

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GB, and the climbing culture in commercial gyms,

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and how often she goes through climbing shoes,

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which kind of blew my mind. I hope you enjoy

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this episode with Emma. Please pardon this brief

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intermission, but I'm excited to talk about Mad

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Rock's newest and softest shoe yet, the Remora

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Now, back to the show. How was your holidays?

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Yeah, really nice. Thank you. And you? yeah it

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was good do you have any like new year's plans

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or resolutions ideas oh god um i've not really

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thought about resolutions i want to be more organized

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um yeah i need to get on it um but yeah i don't

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really know to be fair do you have any new year's

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plans not really any plans i always try to make

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a resolution to like start stretching but it's

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just so freaking boring I can't do it it's hard

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isn't it it's like I used to have such a perfectionist

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mindset with it as well and like it's I think

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starting is the hardest part and I would be like

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if I couldn't like the thought of doing it badly

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I was like no I just can't be bothered to do

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it but actually like doing something's better

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than nothing but what's doing it badly for stretching

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I don't know like I went through a phase where

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I would have to do like 30 seconds in each stretch

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and I'd do all my stretches um and then doing

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it badly would just be like not I don't know

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just not doing it properly and then I would just

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find it really hard to stop because I'd have

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this whole thing in my head of god I have to

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get through like stretching but then I think

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since I've been a bit more like relaxed with

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it I like do it way more now Okay. What's your

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routine look like? Or I guess you don't have

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a routine because that would be too much perfection.

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Yeah, maybe. For stretching, I think it's, I

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try to stretch like every day. Not every day

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is like a big stretching day. Like if I'm tired,

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it's like getting to sleep is more important,

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I think. But I definitely like try to do a bit

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of like massage gun and foam roll. And then when

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I can't stretch, I don't know. Yeah, I... tried

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to get like a split one year very yeah very short

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amount of time that I spent trying to do that

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I've I always have the goal of middle splits

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that I've never done but it like I would I was

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doing it and I think maybe I was doing it too

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hard Oh, really? Like overstretching? Yeah, I

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think I was just like stretching too extreme

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for what I was able to do. And then it made my

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knees hurt really bad. Oh, really? I guess sometimes

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like when you're holding middle split, it's like

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the inside of the knees. That hurts me sometimes.

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I don't know. Was it that or? It's kind of like

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when you maybe like fall and then it like bends

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the other way too much. Oh, are you hypermobile

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or? No, no. It was just too much on the knees,

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I think, when I stopped. then I never picked

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it up again no middle splits I feel like I'm

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like I'm relatively flexible but like box splits

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or middle splits is the one I just like I can't

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do and I need to be like committed for like yeah

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a long time and consistent but do you think it

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would help with climbing yeah for sure I think

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it's like the most important one for climbing

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with like keeping your hips into the wall and

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especially and with slabs and everything um but

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it's the one that I'm worst at which is really

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annoying yeah I wasn't trying middle splits though

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I was trying to do front splits that's the one

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where you're like oh this one yeah it wasn't

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for like climbing I just thought it'd be fun

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no no that's cool that's cool but maybe that

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can be your resolution as well yeah yeah yeah

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no for sure um how is winter training going winter

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it's going really well actually yeah I've started

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working with a new coach um and yeah it's going

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really well so far what does your training look

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like So currently, I've actually switched to

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doing three days on, one day off. Last winter,

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I did six days on, one day off. Whoa, that's

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a lot. Yeah, it was, I think it like, I don't

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know, it's definitely beneficial in some ways,

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but then in other ways, it's not beneficial.

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I don't know to do it right is hard and then

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I'm only doing Boulder so I think maybe this

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year the thinking was more like I'll try to have

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like three like good sessions like with skin

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and then a rest day and then just repeat but

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yeah I'm doing three on one off and just like

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everything really like climbing gym I don't know

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the usual like strength training and hangboarding

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stuff like that yeah yeah I think most sessions

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I'll have like some form of like fingerboarding

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or like I do like those pinch pickup things um

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and then I'll have like a climbing session which

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could be like subs and then power endurance or

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like comp blocks and then a hardboard session

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and then um not every day but a lot of days recently

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I've been having gym it's very much like I don't

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know it feels like it's like let's get out as

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tired as possible and like push our arms as much

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as we can do you is your coach there like the

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entire time while you're training no no um so

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he writes my training plan and then I see him

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like once or twice a week in person for sessions.

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That makes sense. What did your six days on training

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look like? That sounds crazy to me. Last winter.

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Yeah, it was a lot. It was more like I would

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do like hard day, hard day, easy day, hard day,

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hard day, easy day, kind of. So maybe like the

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third day would be like slabs and conditioning

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or something. So I'd have skin for the next days.

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But it was just a lot of climbing, a lot of gym.

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But I think if you like build up your capacity

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and you can train that much, then it can be okay.

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I don't know. Was it mainly just like a skin

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issue? Yeah, I think I did. I think now I'm preferring

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the three on one off to the six days because

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I just have. more skin and energy for the sessions

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and I can make them like better quality sessions

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I think did you ever like tape up your skin to

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yeah yeah for sure I think I don't know it's

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really annoying and it's annoying like I've definitely

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found it mentally hard at first to be like taped

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and not doing a climb and knowing if I untaped

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that I would find it okay I think it takes like

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a lot of maturity to be like no it's fine like

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it doesn't matter it's just training you can

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tape um but when i was doing six days i definitely

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spent a lot of sessions taped i think yeah i

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mean i wonder if that's helpful too because then

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it makes you i don't know like work your grip

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harder yeah work your body positioning maybe

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it could be a thing i think erin spends a lot

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of time taped up and she has really strong hands

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so maybe it's the manual yeah actually i wonder

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if i should try that out just tape up every session

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yeah i mean because I feel like for me, I'm so

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texture dependent. Like if the texture on a hold

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isn't good, I'm like over it. Yeah, no, same.

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I hate a badly textured hold. Yeah, so I think

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maybe I need to work on that now that I think

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about it. So yeah, let's get into learning more

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about you and your climbing. How did you start

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out getting into climbing and competing? My parents

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both climbed a little bit in uni, like not properly,

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but... They occasionally went like outdoor climbing

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and so I think when I started climbing when I

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was 10 we were visiting family in France in Paris

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and we went to Font and I think that was my first

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time climbing and then we came home and I think

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I asked to go like I just asked to go climbing

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and then like six months later I joined a kids

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club and yeah I just really liked it. Did you

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do, like, family trips? We did when I was younger

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to Font, yeah, yeah. It was really nice. And

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then when did you actually start competing a

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bunch? Or, like, do you, like, remember a moment

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when you decided to start doing it seriously?

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So I started competing, like, quite soon after

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I started climbing. There was, like, this competition

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circuit called the Youth Climbing Series in the

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UK, and it was, like, you do regional comps,

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and then you try to make it to the national.

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like grand final they used to call it um so I

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did that like six months after I started climbing

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but when I like took it seriously I think that

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was maybe when I was like 15 or something I like

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just I don't know I decided I wanted to get onto

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the GB team and yeah what inspired you to want

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to get onto the GB team or like how do you make

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the decision that I don't know it's like hard

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for me to imagine being so young and deciding

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that it's something I want to do, I don't know,

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like, professionally or take really seriously.

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It kind of, like, just, like, built up. Like,

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I started with the regional comps and the national

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comps and then I would, like, make national finals

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and just seeing all the people in the GB team,

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it just felt like the next step. And then, like,

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I really wanted to go to the internationals and

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I don't know. Yeah, it just felt like the next

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thing. that was coming I don't know like it just

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yeah you don't you don't feel like there was

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a specific decision it was just like this makes

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sense is the next thing to work towards I think

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so okay so yeah this was your first year in the

00:11:51.220 --> 00:11:54.360
senior circuit right yes yeah yeah I mean it

00:11:54.360 --> 00:11:56.789
was a crazy first year in the senior circuit

00:11:56.789 --> 00:11:59.830
I think you made semis in all world cups except

00:11:59.830 --> 00:12:02.870
for one uh yeah apart from Kachow at the start

00:12:02.870 --> 00:12:06.169
of the season yeah um how did it feel and what

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did you learn from the 2025 season um it was

00:12:09.590 --> 00:12:12.690
really cool uh yeah I didn't expect it to go

00:12:12.690 --> 00:12:15.669
so well like obviously I hoped it would go well

00:12:15.669 --> 00:12:21.289
um but it was just like crazy to be competing

00:12:21.289 --> 00:12:24.990
with the people who I've watched like on my screen

00:12:24.990 --> 00:12:28.409
for so long and to like just be in iso and just

00:12:28.409 --> 00:12:30.330
even like seeing them warming up it's just like

00:12:30.330 --> 00:12:35.389
insane um and yeah i think i learned a lot about

00:12:35.389 --> 00:12:39.970
like myself and uh the comps and was it like

00:12:39.970 --> 00:12:42.870
your first time um like traveling around for

00:12:42.870 --> 00:12:46.129
competitions too uh with the youth team i'd already

00:12:46.129 --> 00:12:48.309
done like a decent amount of traveling around

00:12:48.309 --> 00:12:52.070
europe and then uh for youth worlds I'd been

00:12:52.070 --> 00:12:56.470
to Dallas and South Korea and China actually

00:12:56.470 --> 00:13:02.429
before but um it was definitely like a very different

00:13:02.429 --> 00:13:05.909
experience and like having all the comps back

00:13:05.909 --> 00:13:10.129
to back that was yeah very new for me and i think

00:13:10.129 --> 00:13:13.289
i could have done things better i'm not sure

00:13:13.289 --> 00:13:15.730
i think yeah what would you like change about

00:13:15.730 --> 00:13:18.370
the traveling for next year not sure i think

00:13:18.370 --> 00:13:21.289
i need to figure it out for next year um but

00:13:21.289 --> 00:13:24.289
i definitely felt that i got like physically

00:13:24.289 --> 00:13:27.730
quite tired by the end of the season and i would

00:13:27.730 --> 00:13:33.029
hope to like um yeah hopefully with my coach

00:13:33.029 --> 00:13:36.529
we can figure out how i maybe don't get so tired

00:13:36.529 --> 00:13:38.970
like maybe it's a case of like training more

00:13:38.970 --> 00:13:43.230
or training a bit less i'm not too sure um but

00:13:43.230 --> 00:13:46.929
yeah i'd like to figure that one out like you

00:13:46.929 --> 00:13:49.330
were still doing training during the season um

00:13:49.330 --> 00:13:55.210
no like kind of like not training training so

00:13:55.210 --> 00:13:59.750
much like i wasn't doing long days um but i was

00:13:59.750 --> 00:14:02.169
still doing like shorter hard sessions because

00:14:02.169 --> 00:14:05.840
you want to stay recruited um I don't know I

00:14:05.840 --> 00:14:08.940
think it's a hard balance to find like the right

00:14:08.940 --> 00:14:12.580
amount to do I find it quite hard to uh like

00:14:12.580 --> 00:14:16.559
know what my body needs but hopefully with like

00:14:16.559 --> 00:14:18.899
the pasture and everything I can figure it out

00:14:18.899 --> 00:14:21.960
a bit better yeah and you also said it was cool

00:14:21.960 --> 00:14:24.659
to be an iso competing with the people you watched

00:14:24.659 --> 00:14:27.740
on screen yeah it was crazy who was like who

00:14:27.740 --> 00:14:30.940
are you like most like did you feel nervous warming

00:14:30.940 --> 00:14:33.360
up next to them was there like anyone that you

00:14:33.360 --> 00:14:36.259
super looked up to that yeah I remember in Kachow

00:14:36.259 --> 00:14:40.120
seeing like Miho and I was just like fangirling

00:14:40.120 --> 00:14:42.740
so hard like oh my gosh just like seeing her

00:14:42.740 --> 00:14:47.059
in person was crazy and then I remember seeing

00:14:47.059 --> 00:14:50.080
Yanya for the first time in Innsbruck like that

00:14:50.080 --> 00:14:52.799
was insane i think i was just talking to one

00:14:52.799 --> 00:14:54.539
of my friends in the bathroom and then she like

00:14:54.539 --> 00:14:56.799
walked out of one of the stalls and i was we

00:14:56.799 --> 00:14:58.500
looked at each other and we're like oh my gosh

00:14:58.500 --> 00:15:02.820
did you say anything or you just kind of stared

00:15:02.820 --> 00:15:07.059
just like tried not to like be too obvious um

00:15:07.059 --> 00:15:12.960
but yeah i think it was really cool to um like

00:15:12.960 --> 00:15:16.379
see those people in real life and yeah everyone's

00:15:16.379 --> 00:15:19.190
just like so nice and it's really cool I wonder

00:15:19.190 --> 00:15:21.929
how she feels when people just like, when she

00:15:21.929 --> 00:15:24.450
just like walks out and sees people like whispering

00:15:24.450 --> 00:15:28.190
about her to the side. But yeah, how do you feel

00:15:28.190 --> 00:15:31.149
like warming up in that environment? Like, does

00:15:31.149 --> 00:15:34.889
it feel nerve wracking and scary warming up next

00:15:34.889 --> 00:15:37.730
to people like that? I think I definitely found

00:15:37.730 --> 00:15:41.250
it intimidating at first because just like watching

00:15:41.250 --> 00:15:43.710
people, like everyone is so impressive and like

00:15:43.710 --> 00:15:45.809
so strong, like the moves they're doing on the

00:15:45.809 --> 00:15:48.980
spray wall. I was, especially like in Kachow,

00:15:49.120 --> 00:15:52.039
I was just like, oh my gosh. But I think as the

00:15:52.039 --> 00:15:55.379
season went on, I became more comfortable with

00:15:55.379 --> 00:15:58.320
it for sure. But definitely at first I found

00:15:58.320 --> 00:16:02.659
it quite intimidating. Yeah, I bet. One of the

00:16:02.659 --> 00:16:04.960
audience submitted questions that had come in

00:16:04.960 --> 00:16:08.259
was, how has the transition from youth to senior

00:16:08.259 --> 00:16:10.179
been for you? And do you have any advice for

00:16:10.179 --> 00:16:11.759
youth climbers going through that transition?

00:16:12.200 --> 00:16:14.980
Yeah, I found the transition from youth to senior,

00:16:15.080 --> 00:16:19.059
like, good but also hard at times because it's

00:16:19.059 --> 00:16:22.879
just that you're going into a much more competitive

00:16:22.879 --> 00:16:26.299
and harder environment and everyone is just so

00:16:26.299 --> 00:16:30.480
good and there's so many people i think if i

00:16:30.480 --> 00:16:33.740
had advice it would try to be it would be to

00:16:33.740 --> 00:16:36.480
try to be confident because it's really hard

00:16:36.480 --> 00:16:42.259
at times and i definitely found like going into

00:16:42.259 --> 00:16:45.399
senior I had a lot of like self -doubt and just

00:16:45.399 --> 00:16:47.600
when you like see the start list and you see

00:16:47.600 --> 00:16:49.919
all the names on the start list it's hard to

00:16:49.919 --> 00:16:52.379
look at that and think how am I meant to compete

00:16:52.379 --> 00:16:54.379
against these people because they're all so good

00:16:54.379 --> 00:16:58.580
but they're also just people and like everyone's

00:16:58.580 --> 00:17:02.100
in the same boat like yeah I think that would

00:17:02.100 --> 00:17:05.160
be my advice. Did you feel like there was a difference

00:17:05.160 --> 00:17:07.880
in the actual boulders between youth and senior

00:17:07.880 --> 00:17:11.650
like they climbed differently? Yeah I think senior

00:17:11.650 --> 00:17:14.710
one's definitely a bit more powerful in my opinion

00:17:14.710 --> 00:17:19.410
um which is really cool uh especially like in

00:17:19.410 --> 00:17:22.670
semi -finals like the power boulders are usually

00:17:22.670 --> 00:17:25.990
really really hard is that um more of a strength

00:17:25.990 --> 00:17:27.890
for you or do you get nervous when it comes to

00:17:27.890 --> 00:17:30.609
like power boulders i don't think it's my strength

00:17:30.609 --> 00:17:34.950
but i think in competitions i climb power boulders

00:17:35.450 --> 00:17:37.829
i find them the easiest to like get into a good

00:17:37.829 --> 00:17:40.230
mindset and try my best on like i find slabs

00:17:40.230 --> 00:17:43.009
in comps quite hard but power boulders it's just

00:17:43.009 --> 00:17:45.190
like okay i know this is going to be really hard

00:17:45.190 --> 00:17:48.349
i know i'm going to have to try as hard as i

00:17:48.349 --> 00:17:50.990
can and i feel like in a comp i can get into

00:17:50.990 --> 00:17:54.670
that headspace or like yeah quite well yeah what's

00:17:54.670 --> 00:17:58.190
your mindset on on slab uh i really like slab

00:17:58.190 --> 00:18:02.549
but i find slabs in comps quite stressful and

00:18:02.549 --> 00:18:05.339
it's something i really want to improve at next

00:18:05.339 --> 00:18:07.440
year I think it's one of my main goals because

00:18:07.440 --> 00:18:10.819
in training I feel quite confident on slabs and

00:18:10.819 --> 00:18:15.819
then I get to the comps and I like think about

00:18:15.819 --> 00:18:17.680
the slabs and see the slabs and they make me

00:18:17.680 --> 00:18:20.359
so stressed but yeah it's definitely something

00:18:20.359 --> 00:18:24.640
I'd like to be able to work on and be able to

00:18:24.640 --> 00:18:28.079
show some good slab climbing next year. Is it

00:18:28.079 --> 00:18:30.880
like the time pressure or like the number of

00:18:30.880 --> 00:18:34.250
attempts that get to you? I think it's A lot

00:18:34.250 --> 00:18:36.210
of the time it's the sequence. I don't think

00:18:36.210 --> 00:18:39.549
I've ever been the best at like reading sequences

00:18:39.549 --> 00:18:44.829
from the ground, especially on slabs. So I like

00:18:44.829 --> 00:18:51.009
rely a lot on my intuition on the wall. But and

00:18:51.009 --> 00:18:54.210
then if I'm not feeling confident, it's hard

00:18:54.210 --> 00:18:57.769
to rely on that. And I think I struggle with

00:18:57.769 --> 00:19:00.410
being confident on the slabs in comps. So hopefully

00:19:00.410 --> 00:19:04.539
the next season. I can be more confident. Yeah,

00:19:04.640 --> 00:19:07.099
I think I'm super bad at reading from the ground

00:19:07.099 --> 00:19:08.900
too. Yeah, I find it so hard. That's something

00:19:08.900 --> 00:19:10.859
I need to work on. But I don't know how to work

00:19:10.859 --> 00:19:14.579
on it. Yeah, it's a tough one. And then sometimes,

00:19:14.799 --> 00:19:18.079
like, sometimes I think it's better to use your

00:19:18.079 --> 00:19:20.339
intuition. But then other times, like, you need

00:19:20.339 --> 00:19:23.039
to have, like, a plan A, a plan B. I don't know.

00:19:23.039 --> 00:19:25.240
It's hard to find the balance. How do you feel

00:19:25.240 --> 00:19:29.019
about, like, coordination style? I love coordination.

00:19:29.460 --> 00:19:32.910
Like, I think it's my favorite. kind of climbing

00:19:32.910 --> 00:19:35.769
yeah I really really like it do you have any

00:19:35.769 --> 00:19:38.589
tips there for how to figure them out more quickly

00:19:38.589 --> 00:19:42.569
I think for coordination a lot of it is like

00:19:42.569 --> 00:19:46.849
giving 100 % from the get -go and just committing

00:19:46.849 --> 00:19:49.930
like properly and even if it like because if

00:19:49.930 --> 00:19:52.049
it doesn't feel good at least you know that you've

00:19:52.049 --> 00:19:54.630
given it 100 % and you know it doesn't feel good

00:19:54.630 --> 00:19:57.450
that way I think that's really important um because

00:19:57.450 --> 00:20:01.099
if you don't commit then you don't know For me,

00:20:01.180 --> 00:20:03.880
often with coordination, I think of the position

00:20:03.880 --> 00:20:06.940
I want to end up in and then I trust my body

00:20:06.940 --> 00:20:10.799
that it's going to get me there and I just give

00:20:10.799 --> 00:20:14.619
it my all, I think. One of the comps that you

00:20:14.619 --> 00:20:17.880
did the best in was Prague. You ended up being

00:20:17.880 --> 00:20:20.400
in a finals position and then the event got rained

00:20:20.400 --> 00:20:24.640
out. What was that experience like? Prague was

00:20:24.640 --> 00:20:28.259
kind of crazy. Before the qualies, it was an

00:20:28.259 --> 00:20:32.920
afternoon qualies, um for my lunch i had some

00:20:32.920 --> 00:20:35.380
like i had other stuff but i had some breadsticks

00:20:35.380 --> 00:20:39.059
and hummus and it just looked like normal hummus

00:20:39.059 --> 00:20:41.900
um i eat hummus all the time i really like it

00:20:41.900 --> 00:20:47.240
um and then i ate some and my lips like started

00:20:47.240 --> 00:20:49.000
tingling and i was like oh this is really odd

00:20:49.000 --> 00:20:51.779
and then i like check the ingredients and i see

00:20:51.779 --> 00:20:54.019
that it's like peanut butter hummus and i'm allergic

00:20:54.019 --> 00:20:58.059
to peanuts um so then i started to have an allergic

00:20:58.059 --> 00:21:03.690
reaction um and this was how bad is it I'm not

00:21:03.690 --> 00:21:06.450
anaphylactic so my throat doesn't close up but

00:21:06.450 --> 00:21:09.609
I was like getting like hives and yeah and then

00:21:09.609 --> 00:21:12.750
my stomach started to hurt and I like took my

00:21:12.750 --> 00:21:16.329
pills and everything um my antihistamines um

00:21:16.329 --> 00:21:20.009
but it was like just before I headed to ISO I

00:21:20.009 --> 00:21:23.690
started to have the reaction um so I was just

00:21:23.690 --> 00:21:26.589
there like oh my gosh like what have I done like

00:21:26.589 --> 00:21:31.799
this is so bad um But then, I don't know, I went

00:21:31.799 --> 00:21:34.000
downstairs, we were going to head off to ISO

00:21:34.000 --> 00:21:35.460
and the coaches were just trying to be like,

00:21:35.519 --> 00:21:36.779
no, you're okay. Like, they were just trying

00:21:36.779 --> 00:21:38.900
to calm me down and, like, they were really good

00:21:38.900 --> 00:21:42.019
and, like, really supportive. So then we went

00:21:42.019 --> 00:21:46.259
to ISO and then I just, like, I felt so bad at

00:21:46.259 --> 00:21:49.700
this point. I just was talking to one of my coaches,

00:21:49.779 --> 00:21:52.779
like, I can't do it. Like, I was just, like,

00:21:52.859 --> 00:21:55.859
falling, I don't know, I felt sick, I was falling

00:21:55.859 --> 00:22:00.619
asleep, it was just everything. um and then we

00:22:00.619 --> 00:22:05.039
the it was raining and the comp got postponed

00:22:05.039 --> 00:22:08.839
so we got moved to some like museum and then

00:22:08.839 --> 00:22:10.960
we were there for a couple hours which was actually

00:22:10.960 --> 00:22:13.880
a blessing in disguise for me because I think

00:22:13.880 --> 00:22:19.400
um my reaction was like not so good at that time

00:22:19.400 --> 00:22:22.759
I was like um I was like going really hot then

00:22:22.759 --> 00:22:25.259
really cold then my whole body went red I don't

00:22:25.259 --> 00:22:29.680
know it was kind of crazy um So we moved to this

00:22:29.680 --> 00:22:32.720
museum for a couple of hours. We went back to

00:22:32.720 --> 00:22:38.759
the ISO for the comp. And then I was still like

00:22:38.759 --> 00:22:40.920
having the reaction, but it was definitely, it

00:22:40.920 --> 00:22:42.960
was like coming in waves and it was definitely

00:22:42.960 --> 00:22:46.059
a bit better. But I remember like warming up.

00:22:46.140 --> 00:22:52.039
I felt like so, so bad and like awful. But then

00:22:52.039 --> 00:22:55.660
the comp went ahead and it was at like 8pm, I

00:22:55.660 --> 00:23:01.910
think. um the qualies and uh by the time I actually

00:23:01.910 --> 00:23:07.009
got to like call zone for qualies the reaction

00:23:07.009 --> 00:23:12.170
had kind of stopped but um I hadn't eaten in

00:23:12.170 --> 00:23:15.029
like like since the hummus because I just couldn't

00:23:15.029 --> 00:23:18.490
stomach anything so I was I had like no energy

00:23:18.490 --> 00:23:24.869
um and yeah I think the coaches were really good

00:23:24.869 --> 00:23:29.019
like I was kind of freaking out and like, I'm

00:23:29.019 --> 00:23:31.799
not going to make semis. I really want to make

00:23:31.799 --> 00:23:34.039
semis. Like, this is all my fault. Like, why

00:23:34.039 --> 00:23:37.039
did I eat the hummus? But they were like, no,

00:23:37.099 --> 00:23:39.019
you can still make semis. Like your body can

00:23:39.019 --> 00:23:40.920
do more than you think, but it doesn't matter.

00:23:41.079 --> 00:23:43.579
Like you're doing all that you can do. Yeah.

00:23:43.700 --> 00:23:48.039
They were really supportive. And so I did qualities

00:23:48.039 --> 00:23:52.759
and I felt like so bad, but I, and then after

00:23:52.759 --> 00:23:55.509
qualities. I was like, there's no way I've made

00:23:55.509 --> 00:23:58.069
semis. Like, because I only got like two tops

00:23:58.069 --> 00:24:01.750
as well. And I was just like, no way. So we walked

00:24:01.750 --> 00:24:03.890
back to the hotel and then I just like checked

00:24:03.890 --> 00:24:06.349
the results. I was like, oh my gosh, wait, I'm

00:24:06.349 --> 00:24:10.349
in semis. And then I was like over the moon.

00:24:10.450 --> 00:24:12.849
Like I couldn't believe it. Like I was in semis.

00:24:12.849 --> 00:24:16.950
And then semis, we had a rest day in between.

00:24:17.049 --> 00:24:20.170
So the allergic reaction was all good by then.

00:24:20.859 --> 00:24:23.799
and semis went really really well what about

00:24:23.799 --> 00:24:28.480
that semis um went super well for you like was

00:24:28.480 --> 00:24:31.599
it just boulders that fit your style better um

00:24:31.599 --> 00:24:33.339
I think it was a mixture I think the boulders

00:24:33.339 --> 00:24:38.359
really suited me um and I think that uh because

00:24:38.359 --> 00:24:43.119
of the whole drama the day before I was just

00:24:43.119 --> 00:24:45.519
and because I qualified in the last place as

00:24:45.519 --> 00:24:47.940
well I was just like so grateful and happy to

00:24:47.940 --> 00:24:50.950
be there that I climbed so freely and I was just

00:24:50.950 --> 00:24:54.849
climbing really well I think and then you were

00:24:54.849 --> 00:24:58.009
getting ready to like climb in finals afterwards

00:24:58.009 --> 00:25:02.190
yeah yeah I guess I don't know the timing for

00:25:02.190 --> 00:25:04.930
how it all happened like you were still preparing

00:25:04.930 --> 00:25:08.069
for finals did you already start warming up or

00:25:08.069 --> 00:25:13.509
um yeah how did that go well so we let me think

00:25:13.509 --> 00:25:17.250
for finals yeah so me and Erin arrived and I

00:25:17.250 --> 00:25:20.579
say And I think we'd both started our warmup

00:25:20.579 --> 00:25:25.500
and then we got told maybe something would like,

00:25:25.539 --> 00:25:28.720
maybe it would be delayed a bit. And then I think

00:25:28.720 --> 00:25:30.940
we did some games or something. We were doing

00:25:30.940 --> 00:25:33.119
like a Harry Potter quiz at some point, I think,

00:25:33.119 --> 00:25:37.700
or maybe a friend's quiz. I don't know. But we

00:25:37.700 --> 00:25:40.480
definitely started the warmup and then we got

00:25:40.480 --> 00:25:42.079
told we were going to go out for presentation

00:25:42.079 --> 00:25:46.779
and we like got changed and whatnot. But then

00:25:46.779 --> 00:25:49.960
we were told the event was cancelled and we were

00:25:49.960 --> 00:25:53.319
just all like, oh my gosh. And it was, yeah,

00:25:53.420 --> 00:25:55.460
it was hard. Wait, I thought you were, how did

00:25:55.460 --> 00:25:57.839
you do a Harry Potter quiz or like friends quiz

00:25:57.839 --> 00:26:01.400
if you're not allowed devices in ISO? Oh, it

00:26:01.400 --> 00:26:05.119
was just like, we would think of questions. Oh,

00:26:05.119 --> 00:26:10.539
seriously? Yeah. I don't know. I think Aaron

00:26:10.539 --> 00:26:13.769
and one of our coaches. are both like quite big

00:26:13.769 --> 00:26:15.769
Harry Potter fans so they were like competing

00:26:15.769 --> 00:26:18.609
and one of the other coaches was asking questions

00:26:18.609 --> 00:26:23.529
okay yeah that's funny huh sounds fun I guess

00:26:23.529 --> 00:26:26.670
friends quiz was better I think yeah I was also

00:26:26.670 --> 00:26:30.410
a big friends fan um so yeah I guess how did

00:26:30.410 --> 00:26:32.690
you feel about not getting to compete in finals

00:26:32.690 --> 00:26:36.490
or did you have any feelings about of like nerves

00:26:36.490 --> 00:26:40.210
or excitement for finals uh I think for finals

00:26:40.210 --> 00:26:45.279
I was like just so excited because i didn't expect

00:26:45.279 --> 00:26:49.099
to be in a finals like it was only my third world

00:26:49.099 --> 00:26:53.400
cup and especially after qualifying in the last

00:26:53.400 --> 00:26:58.160
place being in finals felt crazy um so i was

00:26:58.160 --> 00:27:02.319
just so so excited um and then when it was cancelled

00:27:03.369 --> 00:27:06.789
i was yeah really upset and i my first thought

00:27:06.789 --> 00:27:09.910
was like oh no what if i'd never make a finals

00:27:09.910 --> 00:27:13.490
again and it's not like the first thought you

00:27:13.490 --> 00:27:17.109
want but um yeah i found it really hard i think

00:27:17.109 --> 00:27:21.329
and i think i found um burn world cup quite hard

00:27:21.329 --> 00:27:27.430
because i um it was the world cup after and uh

00:27:27.430 --> 00:27:30.569
i just like put too much pressure on wanting

00:27:30.569 --> 00:27:33.940
to be in the finals again Yeah, I guess pressure

00:27:33.940 --> 00:27:37.160
and like expectations is kind of always really

00:27:37.160 --> 00:27:41.099
difficult for athletes to work through. How do

00:27:41.099 --> 00:27:43.180
you feel about like the mental side of competitive

00:27:43.180 --> 00:27:45.960
climbing was another audience question that came

00:27:45.960 --> 00:27:48.619
through? Yeah, I think the mental side is something

00:27:48.619 --> 00:27:51.740
that I still need to work on quite a lot because

00:27:51.740 --> 00:27:56.720
I think it's really important. And I think being

00:27:56.720 --> 00:27:59.240
confident is really important in competition

00:27:59.240 --> 00:28:05.440
climbing, especially. But I think I've never

00:28:05.440 --> 00:28:09.319
seen like a sports psychologist or anything.

00:28:09.559 --> 00:28:12.059
I think it's definitely something I might look

00:28:12.059 --> 00:28:13.980
into before next season because I think it'd

00:28:13.980 --> 00:28:16.140
be really useful. Is there anything thinking

00:28:16.140 --> 00:28:19.339
back on your performance in Burn that you would

00:28:19.339 --> 00:28:23.579
have wanted to change? I think I wish I could

00:28:23.579 --> 00:28:27.059
have enjoyed the semifinal more. I think it's

00:28:27.059 --> 00:28:29.500
kind of silly because I'd only made like one

00:28:29.500 --> 00:28:33.650
final. but just because it was cancelled i found

00:28:33.650 --> 00:28:36.950
it quite hard to enjoy it because i was only

00:28:36.950 --> 00:28:40.349
thinking about making the final and rather than

00:28:40.349 --> 00:28:43.269
like uh being grateful for being in the semis

00:28:43.269 --> 00:28:47.349
and like being present on the boulders um yeah

00:28:47.349 --> 00:28:50.150
i wish i'd enjoyed that more because i think

00:28:50.150 --> 00:28:54.369
for me i climb my best when i'm like happy and

00:28:54.369 --> 00:28:57.589
yeah I guess like what were your thoughts during

00:28:57.589 --> 00:29:00.670
the semis on each boulder? Because I feel like

00:29:00.670 --> 00:29:04.329
personally for me, I mean, I've never done any

00:29:04.329 --> 00:29:06.450
competitions where there's like an ISO format,

00:29:06.509 --> 00:29:09.869
but during competitions, I am thinking pretty

00:29:09.869 --> 00:29:13.170
hard about like where, what boulders other people

00:29:13.170 --> 00:29:15.809
are doing versus ones I haven't done. Is that

00:29:15.809 --> 00:29:18.490
kind of what you mean when it comes to getting

00:29:18.490 --> 00:29:20.490
in your head during competitions when you're

00:29:20.490 --> 00:29:23.250
trying to think about getting into finals? I

00:29:23.250 --> 00:29:26.990
think kind of the comps where it or the rounds

00:29:26.990 --> 00:29:29.269
where I think it's going the best I end up not

00:29:29.269 --> 00:29:32.349
thinking about the external factors and stuff

00:29:32.349 --> 00:29:38.490
I can't control um but sometimes yeah I do I

00:29:38.490 --> 00:29:42.089
had like in the past I've definitely thought

00:29:42.089 --> 00:29:44.509
some of those things like if someone tops a boulder

00:29:44.509 --> 00:29:47.730
next to you rather than like being concentrated

00:29:47.730 --> 00:29:50.410
on my boulder my mind's going to that and I think

00:29:51.069 --> 00:29:54.670
Yeah, it's hard sometimes. And then, oh, do you

00:29:54.670 --> 00:29:57.150
get prize money from being in fifth place at

00:29:57.150 --> 00:29:59.630
prom? If you're interested in ad -free episodes

00:29:59.630 --> 00:30:02.069
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00:30:02.069 --> 00:30:04.130
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00:30:04.130 --> 00:30:07.329
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00:30:15.269 --> 00:30:18.130
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00:30:21.059 --> 00:30:23.440
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00:30:23.440 --> 00:30:26.299
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00:30:26.299 --> 00:30:28.740
help out non -monetarily, liking, commenting,

00:30:28.880 --> 00:30:31.740
and sharing helps a great deal as well. Back

00:30:31.740 --> 00:30:34.339
to the show. Yes, I did actually. I think I got

00:30:34.339 --> 00:30:39.200
1 .5k, which is quite good. Oh wait, that's not

00:30:39.200 --> 00:30:42.279
bad. Maybe like 1 ,300 euros actually. I'm not

00:30:42.279 --> 00:30:46.680
sure. But I think it was one of the good tiers

00:30:46.680 --> 00:30:48.910
for... prize money like i think there's like

00:30:48.910 --> 00:30:52.029
a silver platinum or something like that i think

00:30:52.029 --> 00:30:54.769
burn was high prize money too oh there's like

00:30:54.769 --> 00:30:58.410
differences between each world cup yeah prague

00:30:58.410 --> 00:31:02.049
and burn were higher prize money than other world

00:31:02.049 --> 00:31:05.130
cups i think oh i didn't know that yeah i heard

00:31:05.130 --> 00:31:07.970
like for some world cups the like even first

00:31:07.970 --> 00:31:10.529
place only gets like 2000 or something like that

00:31:10.529 --> 00:31:15.059
yeah i think so usually it's I think Burn was

00:31:15.059 --> 00:31:20.160
double what some other World Cups were. I mean,

00:31:20.200 --> 00:31:22.500
I could be wrong. Like, I don't want to spread

00:31:22.500 --> 00:31:24.980
false information. No, that's interesting. Yeah.

00:31:25.339 --> 00:31:30.619
I think it depends on maybe the individual host,

00:31:30.880 --> 00:31:33.500
I guess. I think so. Federation. A little. I'm

00:31:33.500 --> 00:31:35.960
not sure. Yeah, I didn't know there was so much

00:31:35.960 --> 00:31:38.920
difference between different comps, though. That's

00:31:38.920 --> 00:31:42.880
interesting. um and then another like general

00:31:42.880 --> 00:31:45.259
question I think you're kind of one of the slightly

00:31:45.259 --> 00:31:49.400
taller athletes yeah um yeah do you like remember

00:31:49.400 --> 00:31:52.079
that ever playing to your advantage or disadvantage

00:31:52.079 --> 00:31:55.220
at all during the season uh I think yeah it has

00:31:55.220 --> 00:31:58.700
its advantages and disadvantages definitely um

00:31:58.700 --> 00:32:02.059
some coordinations I think easier if you're taller

00:32:02.059 --> 00:32:06.200
um but also there was definitely some boulders

00:32:06.200 --> 00:32:12.230
this season that I found hard because of well

00:32:12.230 --> 00:32:15.750
it's not because of like it's something I need

00:32:15.750 --> 00:32:19.869
to work on um but there are definitely some small

00:32:19.869 --> 00:32:24.569
boxes this year that I could like train to fit

00:32:24.569 --> 00:32:28.009
in better I think what kind of moves are harder

00:32:28.009 --> 00:32:32.210
for you as a taller athlete uh I think like bunched

00:32:32.210 --> 00:32:35.750
positions I find quite hard um and like getting

00:32:35.750 --> 00:32:39.579
in and out of small boxes um based like it's

00:32:39.579 --> 00:32:43.200
something i can work on so just need to get my

00:32:43.200 --> 00:32:46.700
middle spirits yeah more stretching yeah yeah

00:32:46.700 --> 00:32:50.180
um so now getting a little bit into gb climbing

00:32:50.180 --> 00:32:53.200
um i feel like specifically the past couple years

00:32:53.200 --> 00:32:56.299
have been kind of crazy for team gb um almost

00:32:56.299 --> 00:32:58.220
seems like it came out of nowhere a little bit

00:32:58.220 --> 00:33:02.359
um what do you feel like it is that contributed

00:33:02.359 --> 00:33:05.319
to that is it like inspirational past athletes

00:33:05.319 --> 00:33:10.019
like having Shauna as like a um I don't know

00:33:10.019 --> 00:33:12.079
what's the word like idol or someone to look

00:33:12.079 --> 00:33:15.440
up to or is there like good gym density or what

00:33:15.440 --> 00:33:18.000
do you think contributes to it yeah I think the

00:33:18.000 --> 00:33:21.099
team's definitely transitioned a lot in the past

00:33:21.099 --> 00:33:26.240
couple years um and everyone is doing so well

00:33:26.240 --> 00:33:29.880
it's crazy I think, yeah, it's really useful

00:33:29.880 --> 00:33:32.220
to have like Shauna and people like that to look

00:33:32.220 --> 00:33:38.319
up to. But I think it's just, I don't know, I

00:33:38.319 --> 00:33:40.740
just think everyone is working really hard and

00:33:40.740 --> 00:33:43.180
everyone is looking around and you see all these

00:33:43.180 --> 00:33:47.059
people working hard. And yeah, it's really cool

00:33:47.059 --> 00:33:50.259
to be surrounded by really strong climbers at

00:33:50.259 --> 00:33:53.180
the World Cups. Is it because you guys don't

00:33:53.180 --> 00:33:55.619
even have like a national training center or

00:33:55.619 --> 00:34:02.079
anything? No, no. um so we used to have a training

00:34:02.079 --> 00:34:09.880
center um but it wasn't amazing uh and then last

00:34:09.880 --> 00:34:13.460
year i think a lot of the guys especially really

00:34:13.460 --> 00:34:17.199
struggled with getting on world cup level or

00:34:17.199 --> 00:34:20.989
style boulders um because a lot of the stuff

00:34:20.989 --> 00:34:23.750
you just can't set in a commercial gym and they

00:34:23.750 --> 00:34:27.050
just wouldn't set hard enough for the guys so

00:34:27.050 --> 00:34:29.769
this year um we've managed to get a bit more

00:34:29.769 --> 00:34:34.630
support and instead of having a training center

00:34:34.630 --> 00:34:41.670
GB decided to have to use some money to set uh

00:34:41.670 --> 00:34:44.969
climbs in depot climbing centers i don't know

00:34:44.969 --> 00:34:46.949
they're quite a big climbing chain in the uk

00:34:46.949 --> 00:34:51.429
so now we've got these project boulders up at

00:34:51.429 --> 00:34:55.030
different centers across the country and i think

00:34:55.030 --> 00:34:58.250
it's really really good and yeah it's useful

00:34:58.250 --> 00:35:03.250
i guess it's surprising to hear that um the team

00:35:03.250 --> 00:35:05.070
was struggling with having hard enough boulders

00:35:05.070 --> 00:35:07.969
set before because I think everyone was doing

00:35:07.969 --> 00:35:11.969
super well last year as well. Even on the men's

00:35:11.969 --> 00:35:17.150
side, you had Toby and Max and Diane and so many

00:35:17.150 --> 00:35:20.190
strong people. So it's surprising to hear. All

00:35:20.190 --> 00:35:22.570
of that was just on commercial sets and spray

00:35:22.570 --> 00:35:25.650
walling? I think a lot on the spray wall and

00:35:25.650 --> 00:35:29.289
a lot on the woody board, for sure. But also

00:35:29.289 --> 00:35:31.610
when they would all train together, they would

00:35:31.610 --> 00:35:35.659
make up a lot of moves. just like push each other

00:35:35.659 --> 00:35:37.599
a lot they would always do like slab eliminates

00:35:37.599 --> 00:35:41.280
and do everything they can to practice the world

00:35:41.280 --> 00:35:43.460
cup style without having the world cup boulders

00:35:43.460 --> 00:35:46.400
and i think them training with each other they

00:35:46.400 --> 00:35:48.639
pushed each other really hard and that was really

00:35:48.639 --> 00:35:53.119
good okay yeah what about like um on the female

00:35:53.119 --> 00:35:55.059
side like do you feel like the setting at commercial

00:35:55.059 --> 00:35:58.860
gyms is decent enough to train on for you guys

00:35:58.860 --> 00:36:08.159
um i think it physically it's okay um like if

00:36:08.159 --> 00:36:11.699
you make your way around enough centers you can

00:36:11.699 --> 00:36:14.460
definitely get enough physical boulders but i

00:36:14.460 --> 00:36:16.639
think a lot of them aren't in the world cup style

00:36:16.639 --> 00:36:20.639
um it's more just like it's kind of quite basic

00:36:20.639 --> 00:36:24.199
a lot of the climbing um but with the new mint

00:36:24.199 --> 00:36:27.340
boulders with the collaboration between gb and

00:36:27.340 --> 00:36:30.989
depot it's really good and we've got like world

00:36:30.989 --> 00:36:35.130
cup style holds and world cup style setting and

00:36:35.130 --> 00:36:37.809
the right level so it's been really really useful

00:36:37.809 --> 00:36:41.969
yeah i guess for a lot of people who well i would

00:36:41.969 --> 00:36:43.989
say most people don't get the chance to experience

00:36:43.989 --> 00:36:45.789
the difference between like world cup setting

00:36:45.789 --> 00:36:49.070
and commercial setting um how would you describe

00:36:49.070 --> 00:36:52.929
the difference and what it feels like i think

00:36:52.929 --> 00:36:58.099
world cup boulders are usually um like more dynamic

00:36:58.099 --> 00:37:00.980
and harder to read sometimes like you have like

00:37:00.980 --> 00:37:03.780
multiple options and sometimes you have to pick

00:37:03.780 --> 00:37:07.719
between options and also you just get like bigger

00:37:07.719 --> 00:37:11.320
moves and slabs just take up the whole panel

00:37:11.320 --> 00:37:15.300
and in a commercial center it's hard to like

00:37:15.300 --> 00:37:18.840
you can't really set like that so it's hard to

00:37:18.840 --> 00:37:22.079
get exposure on the world cup style slabs when

00:37:22.079 --> 00:37:25.960
yeah you don't have them Yeah, I guess I've seen

00:37:25.960 --> 00:37:29.940
a decent amount of commercial sets just because

00:37:29.940 --> 00:37:33.639
through YouTube videos that Aaron or Toby post.

00:37:33.739 --> 00:37:38.760
I feel like I see pretty interesting, at least

00:37:38.760 --> 00:37:40.940
dynamic boulders. Do you feel like the dynamic

00:37:40.940 --> 00:37:43.380
boulders compare at all to World Cup boulders?

00:37:43.860 --> 00:37:47.159
Yeah, I think occasionally we do get some really

00:37:47.159 --> 00:37:51.139
good dynamic boulders, but compared to some other

00:37:51.139 --> 00:37:54.159
nations, maybe we don't get enough of them. Or

00:37:54.159 --> 00:37:57.199
we'll get one a month and it'll be really good,

00:37:57.340 --> 00:37:59.900
but then we won't get another one for another

00:37:59.900 --> 00:38:02.900
month. But I think it's changing a lot now, which

00:38:02.900 --> 00:38:05.340
is really nice to see. Yeah, I think it's just

00:38:05.340 --> 00:38:07.059
from the videos. I feel like you guys have a

00:38:07.059 --> 00:38:09.500
lot of fun comp style setting. But it's hard

00:38:09.500 --> 00:38:12.940
to tell just from videos. Yeah. Speaking of which,

00:38:13.000 --> 00:38:15.360
I feel like British people have always been killing

00:38:15.360 --> 00:38:18.019
it in the YouTube scene. I don't know why. Yeah,

00:38:18.039 --> 00:38:20.139
there is a lot of British YouTubers, I think.

00:38:20.619 --> 00:38:23.119
Back in the day, like, there was a whole, like,

00:38:23.139 --> 00:38:27.340
vlog squad on YouTube. Oh, like Zamala? Yeah.

00:38:27.900 --> 00:38:30.000
Oh, really? No, I'm talking about that too, yeah.

00:38:30.079 --> 00:38:31.840
Oh, okay. Oh, I love it. Do you watch her videos

00:38:31.840 --> 00:38:35.500
now? No, I just saw that she started, like, posting

00:38:35.500 --> 00:38:37.840
videos again. Yeah, oh, I've started watching

00:38:37.840 --> 00:38:40.500
them again. I love them. I don't know, it, like,

00:38:40.500 --> 00:38:44.320
brings me right back to 2016. Yeah. Yeah, it's

00:38:44.320 --> 00:38:46.900
so interesting. It's just, like, I don't know,

00:38:46.920 --> 00:38:49.500
ever since YouTube started, it's been very, like...

00:38:49.690 --> 00:38:52.429
british focus yeah there are a lot of british

00:38:52.429 --> 00:38:54.869
youtubers to be fair it's interesting did she

00:38:54.869 --> 00:38:58.150
just start posting again or was she posting the

00:38:58.150 --> 00:39:00.090
whole time but people weren't watching i'm not

00:39:00.090 --> 00:39:02.829
sure maybe she was i hadn't watched her since

00:39:02.829 --> 00:39:08.289
like 2016 um but then a couple years ago when

00:39:08.289 --> 00:39:13.409
she had otty or otterly uh one of her kids wait

00:39:13.409 --> 00:39:16.199
what is that Oh my god, she has kids now? Yeah,

00:39:16.239 --> 00:39:18.380
she has two children. It's insane. Oh my god,

00:39:18.420 --> 00:39:20.880
I had no idea. And her dog is still around, Nala.

00:39:21.119 --> 00:39:25.280
Oh yeah, wow. I've been watching her recently.

00:39:25.380 --> 00:39:27.500
She posted like Christmas and her kids are so

00:39:27.500 --> 00:39:30.679
cute. I'll have to take a look. Yeah, they were

00:39:30.679 --> 00:39:34.780
so cute. It was wholesome times. Yeah, no,

00:39:34.780 --> 00:39:37.829
was a good year. But anyway, I guess back to

00:39:37.829 --> 00:39:41.070
the climbing portion. Yeah, a lot of British

00:39:41.070 --> 00:39:43.469
YouTube climbers as well. So that's interesting

00:39:43.469 --> 00:39:47.550
to see. Another audience question that came through,

00:39:47.769 --> 00:39:52.010
it felt like you also burst onto the climbing

00:39:52.010 --> 00:39:55.570
scene. Do you have a similar feeling about that?

00:39:55.769 --> 00:39:58.090
Like, do you kind of feel like it was a slow

00:39:58.090 --> 00:40:01.530
build or did you feel like you did a lot better

00:40:01.530 --> 00:40:04.590
than you expected this season? No, I think I

00:40:04.590 --> 00:40:08.269
did do... um better than expected this season

00:40:08.269 --> 00:40:10.750
um because obviously and obviously I didn't do

00:40:10.750 --> 00:40:14.570
world cups the previous season um because we

00:40:14.570 --> 00:40:17.530
didn't have that many spots and I wasn't at the

00:40:17.530 --> 00:40:21.070
level to get one of the like two spots we had

00:40:21.070 --> 00:40:26.829
I think um but I think definitely like over the

00:40:26.829 --> 00:40:31.409
years I've um improved but this year was definitely

00:40:31.409 --> 00:40:35.150
my biggest like jump I think Yeah, I guess from

00:40:35.150 --> 00:40:37.769
the audience perspective, it was kind of like

00:40:37.769 --> 00:40:43.769
you just showed up in semis and no one had heard

00:40:43.769 --> 00:40:46.030
of you before because most people don't watch

00:40:46.030 --> 00:40:49.050
like youth climbing. Yeah. A lot of people don't

00:40:49.050 --> 00:40:53.030
watch like the European cups either. And so you

00:40:53.030 --> 00:40:55.469
kind of just like showed up and did pretty well.

00:40:56.389 --> 00:41:00.070
And so I'm assuming people are probably kind

00:41:00.070 --> 00:41:03.670
of wondering, like, did you. kind of know that

00:41:03.670 --> 00:41:06.670
your level was up there or did you feel like

00:41:06.670 --> 00:41:10.250
um you were competing at a different level the

00:41:10.250 --> 00:41:13.469
previous season um i'd started to get like good

00:41:13.469 --> 00:41:17.090
youth results um and i won the european youth

00:41:17.090 --> 00:41:20.429
championships at the end of that year um and

00:41:20.429 --> 00:41:23.829
then i really wanted to make it to the world

00:41:23.829 --> 00:41:29.309
cup team for the 2025 season um and then before

00:41:29.309 --> 00:41:33.550
the season we had um the British Championships

00:41:33.550 --> 00:41:41.670
where I came second but I didn't know like I

00:41:41.670 --> 00:41:44.889
knew that Erin was at a really high level but

00:41:44.889 --> 00:41:48.429
she was like she's yeah she was really strong

00:41:48.429 --> 00:41:52.989
and I didn't really have like a gauge of what

00:41:52.989 --> 00:42:01.650
level I was at but yeah and I think um yeah i

00:42:01.650 --> 00:42:04.969
found it like going into kachow i found it hard

00:42:04.969 --> 00:42:09.630
not really knowing where i was at um i don't

00:42:09.630 --> 00:42:12.510
know like i got a lot stronger and i felt a lot

00:42:12.510 --> 00:42:15.909
stronger but yeah yeah so i guess going back

00:42:15.909 --> 00:42:18.469
into climbing in the commercial gym scene in

00:42:18.469 --> 00:42:22.590
the uk um what is the uk like climbing culture

00:42:22.590 --> 00:42:25.050
like since i feel like you guys also have a lot

00:42:25.050 --> 00:42:28.969
of gyms around yeah yeah i think on the whole

00:42:28.969 --> 00:42:34.170
it's really good and i really like going to like

00:42:34.170 --> 00:42:36.730
my local gym and seeing everyone there there's

00:42:36.730 --> 00:42:40.730
like a bit of a crew on the wooden board and

00:42:40.730 --> 00:42:44.530
they're like all so supportive and yeah i think

00:42:44.530 --> 00:42:47.429
on the whole the culture is nice but definitely

00:42:47.429 --> 00:42:53.369
um there's definitely negative sides to it and

00:42:53.369 --> 00:43:00.059
sometimes uh like I find a lot of the gyms are

00:43:00.059 --> 00:43:02.840
still quite male dominated or like the training

00:43:02.840 --> 00:43:07.980
spaces can be quite male dominated um and I find

00:43:07.980 --> 00:43:10.639
it okay I think now because I'm like confident

00:43:10.639 --> 00:43:14.840
within myself and yeah but I definitely found

00:43:14.840 --> 00:43:18.219
it kind of hard growing up sometimes with that

00:43:18.219 --> 00:43:22.380
male dominated space hmm interesting I guess

00:43:22.380 --> 00:43:25.039
like what like i don't know what do you feel

00:43:25.039 --> 00:43:29.340
like that came with um just sometimes like when

00:43:29.340 --> 00:43:32.860
i was younger i mean it happens now but um i

00:43:32.860 --> 00:43:36.639
just don't let it bother me really but it's just

00:43:36.639 --> 00:43:40.199
like i would go on a climb and let's say some

00:43:40.199 --> 00:43:42.579
guy was on the climb as well and i would like

00:43:42.579 --> 00:43:47.000
flash the climb and then they'll just like make

00:43:47.000 --> 00:43:49.699
a comment or say like oh, like if I was as light

00:43:49.699 --> 00:43:52.320
as you, I'd do that climb. And I was just like,

00:43:52.519 --> 00:43:58.219
no, no, no. I remember one time I was doing like

00:43:58.219 --> 00:44:00.500
one arm of training and then a guy said to me

00:44:00.500 --> 00:44:02.619
like, oh, like how light do you have to be to

00:44:02.619 --> 00:44:04.599
be able to do that? And I was just like, no,

00:44:04.760 --> 00:44:09.260
like, no. I don't know. Just like, yeah. I've

00:44:09.260 --> 00:44:12.119
heard people like talk about that on like Reddit

00:44:12.119 --> 00:44:13.980
before, but it's never actually happened to me

00:44:13.980 --> 00:44:19.250
before. No, yeah. And I'm like very, like stickly

00:44:19.250 --> 00:44:22.550
so I guess I'm surprised that no one's ever said

00:44:22.550 --> 00:44:25.329
it to me but yeah did you have like a response

00:44:25.329 --> 00:44:28.329
for that or did you just walk away I think I

00:44:28.329 --> 00:44:30.909
just kind of ignored it like didn't give it the

00:44:30.909 --> 00:44:32.889
time of day yeah I'm just trying to think if

00:44:32.889 --> 00:44:34.869
like anything weird has happened to me I know

00:44:34.869 --> 00:44:37.869
people have mentioned like or sometimes I kind

00:44:37.869 --> 00:44:40.269
of get the feeling that I'll come off of a climb

00:44:40.269 --> 00:44:44.670
and then they'll like try it oh my gosh they

00:44:44.670 --> 00:44:46.889
got when the guys see you on the climb and they

00:44:47.900 --> 00:44:51.380
yeah that's the most annoying thing yeah i get

00:44:51.380 --> 00:44:55.320
it all the time like i'll be on like v i don't

00:44:55.320 --> 00:44:58.280
know like v9 or v10 or whatever and they'll be

00:44:58.280 --> 00:45:01.039
on like a v3 and then they'll suddenly i don't

00:45:01.039 --> 00:45:03.400
know i'm all for like people coming to train

00:45:03.400 --> 00:45:05.420
with me and like trying the same climbs as me

00:45:05.420 --> 00:45:07.460
like i think that's great like and like pushing

00:45:07.460 --> 00:45:11.059
yourself on climbs that are like too hard for

00:45:11.059 --> 00:45:15.239
you um But when they're on like a V3 and they

00:45:15.239 --> 00:45:18.679
see a female on a hard climb and then try to

00:45:18.679 --> 00:45:22.380
pull on, it's just like, oh my gosh. Yeah. Yeah.

00:45:22.440 --> 00:45:24.679
But I mean, at least they can try it and then

00:45:24.679 --> 00:45:27.280
see that it's not so simple. Yeah. Yeah. Have

00:45:27.280 --> 00:45:29.630
you ever had them like... I don't know the other

00:45:29.630 --> 00:45:32.789
day I was on this board climb and this guy came

00:45:32.789 --> 00:45:35.489
over from another area of the board because he

00:45:35.489 --> 00:45:38.030
saw me on this climb and he like tried to pull

00:45:38.030 --> 00:45:40.250
on like couldn't pull on tried to do the first

00:45:40.250 --> 00:45:41.849
move couldn't do the first two and then he like

00:45:41.849 --> 00:45:44.070
walked away like holding his back and I was like

00:45:44.070 --> 00:45:48.590
oh okay okay that doesn't happen to me as often

00:45:48.590 --> 00:45:50.489
because I don't think I'm climbing things that

00:45:50.489 --> 00:45:54.610
are as hard um but well actually I don't know

00:45:54.610 --> 00:45:57.789
maybe the culture is pretty good because if that

00:45:58.139 --> 00:46:01.239
does happen a lot of times i mean i feel like

00:46:01.239 --> 00:46:02.760
a lot of times they'll just be watching from

00:46:02.760 --> 00:46:06.440
afar and then if i send it or don't they'll just

00:46:06.440 --> 00:46:09.760
talk about like how hard it looked or that or

00:46:09.760 --> 00:46:11.360
like a lot of times they'll be like oh i could

00:46:11.360 --> 00:46:15.000
like never do that so yeah maybe the culture

00:46:15.000 --> 00:46:19.360
here is just a bit more nice at least vocally

00:46:19.360 --> 00:46:21.119
i don't know what they're thinking inside their

00:46:21.119 --> 00:46:24.639
heads um but yeah that's unfortunate that it's

00:46:24.639 --> 00:46:27.000
still kind of like that but hopefully maybe it'll

00:46:27.000 --> 00:46:31.900
shift yeah I think like recently I think we're

00:46:31.900 --> 00:46:34.639
seeing a lot more women in the gym and I think

00:46:34.639 --> 00:46:37.079
like 90 % of the guys you meet in a carnival

00:46:37.079 --> 00:46:40.500
are lovely and are so supportive um but there's

00:46:40.500 --> 00:46:45.059
definitely still a bit of that around yeah um

00:46:45.059 --> 00:46:50.360
so then outside of climbing or like uh competition

00:46:50.360 --> 00:46:54.550
climbing a bit um do you get much time to climb

00:46:54.550 --> 00:46:58.630
outside or does it interest you at all uh I yeah

00:46:58.630 --> 00:47:02.670
I've I do have a lot of time now to be fair because

00:47:02.670 --> 00:47:06.409
I'm not in uni anymore um but just with training

00:47:06.409 --> 00:47:10.329
uh I don't have so much time or like skin I guess

00:47:10.329 --> 00:47:13.349
to climb outside but I really enjoy it and I

00:47:13.349 --> 00:47:16.050
would love to get out more do you have any like

00:47:16.050 --> 00:47:18.530
projects in mind or is it just like you really

00:47:18.530 --> 00:47:20.389
don't have the time to even think about it right

00:47:20.389 --> 00:47:23.519
now I've not thought about it like properly but

00:47:23.519 --> 00:47:27.300
um i do want to go try i don't know if you've

00:47:27.300 --> 00:47:30.940
heard of the joker or and the ace they're like

00:47:30.940 --> 00:47:34.820
it's an 8a and an 8b at stanage uh in the peak

00:47:34.820 --> 00:47:38.199
district of that area oh i i guess in the peak

00:47:38.199 --> 00:47:41.860
district yeah but i'm like very not outdoor climbing

00:47:41.860 --> 00:47:45.739
yeah no no don't worry um no there's there's

00:47:45.739 --> 00:47:48.280
a couple like peak district classics that i want

00:47:48.280 --> 00:47:54.110
to try um but Other than that, I've not, yeah,

00:47:54.250 --> 00:47:57.030
I've not really thought about it, but I would

00:47:57.030 --> 00:47:59.469
love to go outdoors more. I mean, fine by me.

00:47:59.530 --> 00:48:02.949
I love competitions. That's all I want to talk

00:48:02.949 --> 00:48:06.789
about. You mentioned that you aren't doing university

00:48:06.789 --> 00:48:09.889
this year, but I guess, were you doing it before?

00:48:10.349 --> 00:48:15.949
Yeah. So I did my end of school exams and then

00:48:15.949 --> 00:48:19.449
I took a gap year. And then I started uni in

00:48:19.449 --> 00:48:26.389
Leeds and I was studying biology. And then that

00:48:26.389 --> 00:48:31.750
was until I was in first year. And then earlier

00:48:31.750 --> 00:48:37.030
on this year, I decided to drop out. And I want

00:48:37.030 --> 00:48:40.190
to go back, but I just want to focus solely on

00:48:40.190 --> 00:48:42.329
the climbing for now, I think. I think in the

00:48:42.329 --> 00:48:46.150
UK, it's quite hard to do both or do both well,

00:48:46.269 --> 00:48:48.860
in my opinion. yeah that makes sense and I guess

00:48:48.860 --> 00:48:51.940
you can always go back at some point yeah I think

00:48:51.940 --> 00:48:54.159
my thing I don't know it was hard because I've

00:48:54.159 --> 00:48:55.980
always been like really academic and really liked

00:48:55.980 --> 00:49:00.159
school but my thinking was that I can go to uni

00:49:00.159 --> 00:49:02.800
anytime and you can only be a comp climber at

00:49:02.800 --> 00:49:05.079
like one time in your life really I don't know

00:49:05.079 --> 00:49:08.780
or not only but I don't know like there's a limit

00:49:08.780 --> 00:49:11.280
on comp climbing and you can go to uni anytime

00:49:11.679 --> 00:49:14.719
Yeah, you got to take advantage of your working

00:49:14.719 --> 00:49:17.139
body when you're young, I guess, is what I think.

00:49:18.199 --> 00:49:21.039
No, I think I follow a similar thing. Like I

00:49:21.039 --> 00:49:24.420
should do all of the crazy sports that I can

00:49:24.420 --> 00:49:27.739
now and then save. No, definitely. Yeah, save

00:49:27.739 --> 00:49:30.360
the sedentary hobbies for later. Like I have

00:49:30.360 --> 00:49:32.280
a whole plan of like what I'm going to do once

00:49:32.280 --> 00:49:34.760
I can't move anymore. I feel like a lot of my

00:49:34.760 --> 00:49:38.679
hobbies are the... when you can't move hobbies

00:49:38.679 --> 00:49:41.380
to be fair like I love like a crossword or something

00:49:41.380 --> 00:49:44.940
but okay yeah well what what else do you like

00:49:44.940 --> 00:49:48.940
to do without using your body uh I really like

00:49:48.940 --> 00:49:53.940
baking uh bake quite a lot uh yeah baking crosswords

00:49:53.940 --> 00:49:56.599
crosswords interesting well what do you like

00:49:56.599 --> 00:49:59.000
to bake one of my favorite bakes is like this

00:49:59.000 --> 00:50:01.840
passion fruitcake I've made that's really good

00:50:01.840 --> 00:50:06.199
um and then I think just a lot of cakes, to be

00:50:06.199 --> 00:50:08.260
honest. I make a good chocolate and strawberry

00:50:08.260 --> 00:50:11.980
cake too. Do you also do the decorating or just

00:50:11.980 --> 00:50:15.340
the cake making part? Yeah, both. Cake decorating

00:50:15.340 --> 00:50:18.880
is going to be one of my sedentary hobbies one

00:50:18.880 --> 00:50:21.860
day in the future. Yeah, it's a good one. Do

00:50:21.860 --> 00:50:26.360
you do extravagant decorations? No, I'm not that

00:50:26.360 --> 00:50:29.389
good. I'm just like, let's do it for fun. Yeah,

00:50:29.389 --> 00:50:32.110
no, that's a fun one. I'm excited to do that.

00:50:32.670 --> 00:50:36.610
Back when you were still studying and doing climbing

00:50:36.610 --> 00:50:39.030
at the same time, what did that balance look

00:50:39.030 --> 00:50:44.849
like? I think it was quite hard, especially so

00:50:44.849 --> 00:50:49.849
when I was doing my end of school exams in my

00:50:49.849 --> 00:50:53.210
school, we do like A -levels in the UK in your

00:50:53.210 --> 00:50:56.989
last two years of school. so you pick three subjects

00:50:56.989 --> 00:51:00.829
and you do them i was doing maths chemistry biology

00:51:00.829 --> 00:51:05.650
um and in my school we had to be in school full

00:51:05.650 --> 00:51:11.349
time and um like nine till four or whatever and

00:51:11.349 --> 00:51:13.670
then i had training as well and i found that

00:51:13.670 --> 00:51:16.690
hard but also i wasn't training as much as i

00:51:16.690 --> 00:51:20.250
do now um and then during the gap year obviously

00:51:20.250 --> 00:51:22.969
it was fine and then when i went back to uni

00:51:22.969 --> 00:51:26.969
or when i went to uni I found it like really

00:51:26.969 --> 00:51:30.670
really hard because I was training to try to

00:51:30.670 --> 00:51:33.309
get on world cup team like six days a week and

00:51:33.309 --> 00:51:36.309
then yeah I was in uni like four days a week

00:51:36.309 --> 00:51:40.389
and it was hard with like some lectures would

00:51:40.389 --> 00:51:46.909
just be timed so badly and yeah it was not like

00:51:46.909 --> 00:51:49.929
sustainable I was like so tired all the time

00:51:49.929 --> 00:51:52.610
and I was like missing lectures like missing

00:51:52.610 --> 00:51:55.349
parts of training and it was like not good how

00:51:55.349 --> 00:51:59.929
many hours a day were you doing training uh maybe

00:51:59.929 --> 00:52:05.550
like six I would say um I very much like prioritized

00:52:05.550 --> 00:52:09.719
the training over the uni like um i would do

00:52:09.719 --> 00:52:11.980
my lectures but a lot of them were online and

00:52:11.980 --> 00:52:14.619
i would i was on like the sports scholarship

00:52:14.619 --> 00:52:20.179
thing so i could do i like spoke to my um supervisor

00:52:20.179 --> 00:52:23.239
and whatnot and i could do a lot online but it

00:52:23.239 --> 00:52:27.739
was still just like so much to do all that i

00:52:27.739 --> 00:52:31.239
think and i yeah didn't want to do both badly

00:52:31.719 --> 00:52:34.019
I guess, were you also living at home at that

00:52:34.019 --> 00:52:36.980
time? I don't really know what the school experience

00:52:36.980 --> 00:52:40.179
is like in the UK, but I guess like in the US,

00:52:40.239 --> 00:52:43.059
you're like living in dorms on campus and then

00:52:43.059 --> 00:52:45.079
it's kind of like the whole experience. Yeah,

00:52:45.079 --> 00:52:49.340
yeah. No, so I moved into like student halls

00:52:49.340 --> 00:52:51.860
and there was like four of us in a flat and we

00:52:51.860 --> 00:52:55.809
shared a kitchen. But then since then. Since

00:52:55.809 --> 00:52:58.010
I dropped out of uni, I've moved back home and

00:52:58.010 --> 00:53:01.250
now I'm looking for apartments in Leeds because

00:53:01.250 --> 00:53:03.969
I want to move over there for training. Is that

00:53:03.969 --> 00:53:06.889
like where the better gyms are? Yeah, I think

00:53:06.889 --> 00:53:12.110
Leeds, Sheffield, Manchester is like the UK climbing

00:53:12.110 --> 00:53:15.949
triangle at the moment. I think for comp climbing,

00:53:16.170 --> 00:53:20.829
the better gyms are in Leeds and Sheffield and

00:53:20.829 --> 00:53:24.019
I think also the scene over there. is better

00:53:24.019 --> 00:53:27.360
at the moment and training with uh other strong

00:53:27.360 --> 00:53:29.739
comp climbers is really good yeah it always seems

00:53:29.739 --> 00:53:33.579
like that helps um okay cool so let's move into

00:53:33.579 --> 00:53:36.440
some of the other grab bag audience submitted

00:53:36.440 --> 00:53:41.179
questions now um the first one from kaito

00:53:41.179 --> 00:53:43.980
how do you decide which teams to train at locally

00:53:43.980 --> 00:53:48.380
or internationally um locally i think it depends

00:53:48.380 --> 00:53:52.929
what's on my training plan um i try to like Look

00:53:52.929 --> 00:53:55.929
at the focus of the day and pick the best gym

00:53:55.929 --> 00:53:59.869
possible for that. But obviously some days I'll

00:53:59.869 --> 00:54:02.170
be able to go to Leeds or Sheffield on the train

00:54:02.170 --> 00:54:04.030
and some days I'll have to stick to, because

00:54:04.030 --> 00:54:07.949
I'm currently based in Manchester. So I think

00:54:07.949 --> 00:54:11.150
I just kind of pick the best day for the plan

00:54:11.150 --> 00:54:16.989
and what I can do. I think during training camps,

00:54:17.289 --> 00:54:21.170
like we go to Paris a decent amount for training

00:54:21.170 --> 00:54:27.250
camps. um and you just go to the gyms with the

00:54:27.250 --> 00:54:30.369
best boulders i think like maybe we'll ask someone

00:54:30.369 --> 00:54:33.849
on the french team like oh like what what gyms

00:54:33.849 --> 00:54:38.110
are good and then similarly uh during the season

00:54:38.110 --> 00:54:41.849
um the coaches will talk to other coaches and

00:54:41.849 --> 00:54:43.969
it'll be like oh this gym's good they've got

00:54:43.969 --> 00:54:48.179
good con boulders up or something And then I

00:54:48.179 --> 00:54:50.920
guess like when you're traveling for competitions,

00:54:50.960 --> 00:54:55.699
do you have like a method of picking gyms to

00:54:55.699 --> 00:54:58.659
train at? People just ask around and we talk

00:54:58.659 --> 00:55:02.659
to our coaches or we'll talk to other athletes

00:55:02.659 --> 00:55:05.320
and be like, oh, this gym wasn't very good. This

00:55:05.320 --> 00:55:08.159
gym was good. Honestly, you can see a lot on

00:55:08.159 --> 00:55:11.000
Instagram, I think. Like I always like go on

00:55:11.000 --> 00:55:12.639
the gym's page, look what they've been tagged

00:55:12.639 --> 00:55:15.579
in and then see if the bowl does look any good.

00:55:16.039 --> 00:55:19.699
Yeah, that makes sense. Next one from ADHD climber

00:55:19.699 --> 00:55:22.219
one. What's your advice for making climbing shoes

00:55:22.219 --> 00:55:26.480
last? Making climbing shoes last? Yeah. I don't

00:55:26.480 --> 00:55:28.159
know if I'm the best to answer this question

00:55:28.159 --> 00:55:30.000
because I feel like mine don't last very long.

00:55:30.500 --> 00:55:33.599
How long does it usually last for you? Gosh,

00:55:33.679 --> 00:55:36.840
I mean, I'll use a different pair for unless

00:55:36.840 --> 00:55:39.820
there's like a comp back to back. I think I'll

00:55:39.820 --> 00:55:42.659
use a different pair for every comp. Oh, really?

00:55:42.900 --> 00:55:48.239
But in training. uh like not even like four weeks

00:55:48.239 --> 00:55:50.699
I don't like maybe like three weeks or something

00:55:50.699 --> 00:55:52.659
I don't know it depends how much salve I'm doing

00:55:52.659 --> 00:55:55.400
if I'm doing loads of salve oh seriously yeah

00:55:55.400 --> 00:56:00.239
I mean and it depends how long I wear them like

00:56:00.239 --> 00:56:02.380
if I wear them till they die and get holes in

00:56:02.380 --> 00:56:07.719
or if I don't but I think yeah I really don't

00:56:07.719 --> 00:56:11.510
think shoes last me oh my gosh I think I'm training

00:56:11.510 --> 00:56:13.550
wrong because mine lasts for like a year and

00:56:13.550 --> 00:56:15.809
a half at least and I thought that was short

00:56:15.809 --> 00:56:21.130
yeah what holy crap wait so and for every comp

00:56:21.130 --> 00:56:27.130
you usually do a new pair I think yeah like for

00:56:27.130 --> 00:56:29.929
comps I like them to be broken in like a specific

00:56:29.929 --> 00:56:33.750
amount yeah what's your like timeline I don't

00:56:33.750 --> 00:56:36.210
really have a timeline but I wear dragos and

00:56:36.210 --> 00:56:40.510
sometimes I like when There's like the branding

00:56:40.510 --> 00:56:42.909
on the bottom of the shoe. When that's gone,

00:56:43.110 --> 00:56:45.250
I think that's a good indicator for me. That's

00:56:45.250 --> 00:56:49.710
like the perfect shoe level. Yeah. Oh, that's

00:56:49.710 --> 00:56:52.070
so specific. But yeah, that helps because I have

00:56:52.070 --> 00:56:56.409
noticed that too. Yeah. But if the comps like

00:56:56.409 --> 00:57:00.289
between Prague and Bern this year, I think I

00:57:00.289 --> 00:57:04.130
wore the same pair. But I didn't like training

00:57:04.130 --> 00:57:06.789
them in between. So I had a different pair with

00:57:06.789 --> 00:57:09.639
me to train in. so i'll like do that sometimes

00:57:09.639 --> 00:57:15.699
but if yeah i'll yeah use different shoes for

00:57:15.699 --> 00:57:18.719
every comp and then but like recently i've been

00:57:18.719 --> 00:57:21.320
just using old comp shoes like getting through

00:57:21.320 --> 00:57:24.039
all ben um so i don't let them go to waste but

00:57:24.039 --> 00:57:28.300
wow so i mean that's like how many boulder comps

00:57:28.300 --> 00:57:31.500
in a year seven pairs of shoes during the season

00:57:31.500 --> 00:57:36.199
wow and I can't believe you go through it in

00:57:36.199 --> 00:57:39.800
four weeks I think I'm not climbing slab properly

00:57:39.800 --> 00:57:44.219
or you are and I'm climbing slab badly and just

00:57:44.219 --> 00:57:47.920
like going through the shoes yeah no I don't

00:57:47.920 --> 00:57:50.280
know about that although I think sometimes I

00:57:50.280 --> 00:57:53.280
am a little too careful with my shoes like sometimes

00:57:53.280 --> 00:57:57.840
I think I'm not committing to a move specifically

00:57:57.840 --> 00:58:00.139
because I'm like oh my gosh I want to use a lot

00:58:00.139 --> 00:58:05.179
of rubber like if I mess this up yeah wow okay

00:58:05.179 --> 00:58:08.480
no that's interesting to to hear so no advice

00:58:08.480 --> 00:58:10.780
for making climbing shoes last I don't think

00:58:10.780 --> 00:58:15.280
so no I'm so sorry yeah I have advice for breaking

00:58:15.280 --> 00:58:18.619
them in um yeah yeah what's that yeah I recently

00:58:18.619 --> 00:58:24.210
um I actually I got this advice from Quinn who's

00:58:24.210 --> 00:58:27.989
on the US team so I can't like claim to have

00:58:27.989 --> 00:58:30.309
come up with it but I've been bringing a hair

00:58:30.309 --> 00:58:33.570
dryer to the wall um so when it's cold I like

00:58:33.570 --> 00:58:37.030
blast the shoes with the hair dryer and it makes

00:58:37.030 --> 00:58:39.010
breaking them in so much easier and then I also

00:58:39.010 --> 00:58:41.349
wear like plastic bags to break them in because

00:58:41.349 --> 00:58:44.250
otherwise it's too painful but yeah but the hair

00:58:44.250 --> 00:58:46.610
dryer is such a good hack especially for the

00:58:46.610 --> 00:58:50.550
winter I think Yeah, I bet. I don't really experience

00:58:50.550 --> 00:58:54.329
that much winter here in California. Oh, in California.

00:58:54.889 --> 00:58:58.409
Yeah, but it does still get cold, in my opinion.

00:58:58.750 --> 00:59:02.710
Yeah. And I usually just kind of like sit on

00:59:02.710 --> 00:59:05.190
my shoes for a while. Yeah, that probably works

00:59:05.190 --> 00:59:07.789
too, to be fair. Maybe you don't need to carry

00:59:07.789 --> 00:59:10.429
around the big hedge right with you. It seems

00:59:10.429 --> 00:59:12.510
nice, though. I think that would be more comfortable.

00:59:13.099 --> 00:59:16.139
okay cool next question from daniel strucker

00:59:16.139 --> 00:59:18.980
um what was your favorite boulder from the brussels

00:59:18.980 --> 00:59:22.659
european cup oh where you got first so congrats

00:59:22.659 --> 00:59:26.019
on that thank you um my favorite boulder was

00:59:26.019 --> 00:59:29.039
definitely the last boulder in finals it was

00:59:29.039 --> 00:59:33.619
this paddle dino um and it was so good i didn't

00:59:33.619 --> 00:59:36.179
top it actually i fell off the last move but

00:59:36.179 --> 00:59:38.619
i really really liked that boulder that was really

00:59:38.619 --> 00:59:42.960
good was that like the competition winner for

00:59:42.960 --> 00:59:45.900
you or like the what's the word I like the comp

00:59:45.900 --> 00:59:48.880
the boulder which won me the comp or yeah yeah

00:59:48.880 --> 00:59:51.780
no actually it was the only one I didn't top

00:59:51.780 --> 00:59:57.300
in the finals it was the last one um but yeah

00:59:57.300 --> 00:59:59.179
I don't know I really really enjoyed that comp

00:59:59.179 --> 01:00:02.820
it was maybe one of my or that round it was maybe

01:00:02.820 --> 01:00:05.019
my favorite round or one of my favorite rounds

01:00:05.019 --> 01:00:10.670
of the season um and I think like i don't know

01:00:10.670 --> 01:00:13.730
the crowd was just like so good in brussels and

01:00:13.730 --> 01:00:16.449
the music was so good and my round was going

01:00:16.449 --> 01:00:20.030
really well um and i it was like the last boulder

01:00:20.030 --> 01:00:22.750
of the final and it was a coordination i love

01:00:22.750 --> 01:00:25.269
coordination and like the music was good the

01:00:25.269 --> 01:00:27.769
crowd were cheering i just had so much fun on

01:00:27.769 --> 01:00:30.070
that boulder even though i didn't do the last

01:00:30.070 --> 01:00:32.590
move but yeah it was really good what's good

01:00:32.590 --> 01:00:35.449
music for you at a comp i think just like upbeat

01:00:35.449 --> 01:00:40.340
music i think yeah okay next one from john ford

01:00:40.340 --> 01:00:44.139
19 what's the intensity between tc and world

01:00:44.139 --> 01:00:47.099
cups i don't really know what tc is like training

01:00:47.099 --> 01:00:53.719
center maybe training camps maybe yeah i mean

01:00:53.719 --> 01:00:55.860
during training camps you're training so you're

01:00:55.860 --> 01:01:00.309
pushing yourself obviously really hard um And

01:01:00.309 --> 01:01:02.250
obviously in a World Cup round, you're pushing

01:01:02.250 --> 01:01:04.309
yourself hard. But before the World Cup round,

01:01:04.469 --> 01:01:07.309
you're resting and recovering and making sure

01:01:07.309 --> 01:01:11.530
you feel good for the World Cup. So I guess there's,

01:01:11.530 --> 01:01:12.869
I don't know, I think they're very different

01:01:12.869 --> 01:01:17.329
things, like training and then competing. I guess,

01:01:17.329 --> 01:01:21.329
are the boulders set for training camps harder

01:01:21.329 --> 01:01:24.809
or easier or about the same as World Cups? Oh,

01:01:24.849 --> 01:01:28.429
like during a mock comp round or something. Yeah.

01:01:28.489 --> 01:01:30.599
Okay, that makes sense. Yeah. I think it depends

01:01:30.599 --> 01:01:36.079
on the training camp, but I think they try to

01:01:36.079 --> 01:01:40.219
make them the right level. I've definitely done

01:01:40.219 --> 01:01:42.000
training camps where they've been easier, the

01:01:42.000 --> 01:01:43.880
boulders, and definitely in the training camps

01:01:43.880 --> 01:01:47.039
where the boulders have been harder than World

01:01:47.039 --> 01:01:51.360
Cup boulders. But I think it depends on the round.

01:01:51.480 --> 01:01:55.500
But often in a training camp, I think it's better

01:01:55.500 --> 01:01:57.400
if they're harder because then you can go back.

01:01:58.090 --> 01:02:00.369
and work on the boulders after and that's always

01:02:00.369 --> 01:02:03.190
quite good at least from a viewer's perspective

01:02:03.190 --> 01:02:05.650
it's hard to think that they would set something

01:02:05.650 --> 01:02:08.429
harder than a world cup but i always forget that

01:02:08.429 --> 01:02:10.530
during a world cup you only have so many minutes

01:02:10.530 --> 01:02:13.650
to actually send it yeah i think if it's not

01:02:13.650 --> 01:02:17.469
a simulation uh training boulders are definitely

01:02:17.469 --> 01:02:21.190
harder than world cup boulders because there's

01:02:21.190 --> 01:02:24.480
only like I don't know, like there's so many

01:02:24.480 --> 01:02:27.139
incredible climbers, but also four minutes isn't

01:02:27.139 --> 01:02:32.960
that long. So if they're limit boulders, they're

01:02:32.960 --> 01:02:36.079
not going to be in a while. Or yeah, they're

01:02:36.079 --> 01:02:38.300
going to be harder in the training camp. Okay.

01:02:38.360 --> 01:02:41.619
And last question is from Process Physio. So

01:02:41.619 --> 01:02:44.949
from Andy, which I think. Oh, he used to coach

01:02:44.949 --> 01:02:48.750
me. Yeah. Oh, yeah, yeah. So he says hi, first

01:02:48.750 --> 01:02:51.269
of all. And then his question was, does your

01:02:51.269 --> 01:02:53.869
brother Luke climb harder than you yet? No, no.

01:02:54.010 --> 01:02:57.230
Maybe he will. No, I hope he doesn't. But that

01:02:57.230 --> 01:02:59.909
is actually, like, one of my goals. Like, I can't

01:02:59.909 --> 01:03:03.650
ever let him climb harder than me. Yeah. I think

01:03:03.650 --> 01:03:08.050
he would be better than me on, like, a big campus

01:03:08.050 --> 01:03:10.969
move. But everything else, I've still got him.

01:03:11.150 --> 01:03:15.800
How old is he? uh he's 17 yeah oh okay and he

01:03:15.800 --> 01:03:18.780
started climbing when he was like 14. so he's

01:03:18.780 --> 01:03:22.000
not been climbing that long oh my gosh wow yeah

01:03:22.000 --> 01:03:25.460
but he got like when guys like go through puberty

01:03:25.460 --> 01:03:28.460
and they get so strong he just got so strong

01:03:28.460 --> 01:03:30.659
so quickly like he can do more one -armors than

01:03:30.659 --> 01:03:34.420
me which does break my heart but um i still climb

01:03:34.420 --> 01:03:38.480
harder for now so that's good nice yeah is he

01:03:38.480 --> 01:03:41.960
trying to i guess like does he have climbing

01:03:41.960 --> 01:03:44.519
goals of like competing or is he just doing it

01:03:44.519 --> 01:03:47.539
for fun uh he does comps but i think right now

01:03:47.539 --> 01:03:50.380
like he's in school and he just he just loves

01:03:50.380 --> 01:03:53.500
climbing he goes climbing all the time um he

01:03:53.500 --> 01:03:57.099
doesn't do it as seriously as me he just yeah

01:03:57.099 --> 01:04:00.159
but he really enjoys it i think a lot of i think

01:04:00.159 --> 01:04:02.420
climbing is quite addictive and a lot of climbers

01:04:02.420 --> 01:04:05.260
even if they don't do it like seriously they

01:04:05.260 --> 01:04:07.960
still do it seriously i don't know i guess i'm

01:04:07.960 --> 01:04:10.480
surprised he actually started so late considering

01:04:10.480 --> 01:04:13.420
you were already climbing a lot at that time

01:04:13.420 --> 01:04:17.300
yeah I think when I first went climbing we did

01:04:17.300 --> 01:04:21.460
take him climbing as well um I remember he like

01:04:21.460 --> 01:04:24.800
took a fall or something and then he just decided

01:04:24.800 --> 01:04:28.099
he didn't like it and I think also because I

01:04:28.099 --> 01:04:31.719
was doing it maybe he didn't want to do it I'm

01:04:31.719 --> 01:04:35.699
not sure yeah but then yeah he got into it a

01:04:35.699 --> 01:04:38.340
few years ago And now he climbs all the time

01:04:38.340 --> 01:04:40.460
as well. But I guess you don't want him to get

01:04:40.460 --> 01:04:43.019
too into it because then he might start beating

01:04:43.019 --> 01:04:44.980
you. Yeah, I can't even be stronger than me.

01:04:46.099 --> 01:04:50.559
That would be terrible. I agree. Okay, well,

01:04:50.659 --> 01:04:52.760
that's all the questions I had then. Thanks for

01:04:52.760 --> 01:04:56.340
joining me today. Any last -minute shout -outs

01:04:56.340 --> 01:04:59.360
or words of wisdom that you have? Tips for coordination

01:04:59.360 --> 01:05:02.699
moves or anything like that? Tips for coordination

01:05:02.699 --> 01:05:07.010
moves. Do as many as you can. Never avoid them

01:05:07.010 --> 01:05:09.050
because it's going to make the problem worse.

01:05:09.429 --> 01:05:11.690
And just be confident. Like if you commit, I

01:05:11.690 --> 01:05:13.429
don't know, what's the worst that can happen?

01:05:14.769 --> 01:05:18.010
True. Well, you could slam into the wall. True,

01:05:18.030 --> 01:05:20.110
true. But I think sometimes as well, when you

01:05:20.110 --> 01:05:22.369
take the slam into the wall, it's like, well,

01:05:22.449 --> 01:05:24.869
that's the worst that can happen. So then you

01:05:24.869 --> 01:05:28.650
can commit. I don't know. Yeah. People are going

01:05:28.650 --> 01:05:32.309
to go like slam into walls. Yeah. And do you

01:05:32.309 --> 01:05:33.710
want to let people know where they can find you?

01:05:34.030 --> 01:05:37.710
uh yeah i'm emma .climbing on instagram i'm surprised

01:05:37.710 --> 01:05:40.130
you managed to get that handle yeah i've had

01:05:40.130 --> 01:05:41.949
it for quite a while to be fair since i was like

01:05:41.949 --> 01:05:46.090
13 actually uh yeah there's another girl who

01:05:46.090 --> 01:05:47.949
i'm friends with called emma and she used to

01:05:47.949 --> 01:05:51.650
have the handle and then she like merged her

01:05:51.650 --> 01:05:53.789
accounts or something and she gave me like advanced

01:05:53.789 --> 01:05:56.510
notice she was like oh wow you can have the climbing

01:05:57.440 --> 01:06:01.400
Wow. Congrats. Thank you. Okay. Awesome. Well,

01:06:01.500 --> 01:06:03.099
thank you again. And it was amazing to talk to

01:06:03.099 --> 01:06:07.440
you. Thank you so much for making it to the end

01:06:07.440 --> 01:06:09.980
of the podcast. Don't forget to like, and subscribe

01:06:09.980 --> 01:06:13.059
if you enjoyed, otherwise you are a super fake

01:06:13.059 --> 01:06:15.880
climber. If you're listening on a podcasting

01:06:15.880 --> 01:06:18.000
platform, I'd appreciate if you rate it five

01:06:18.000 --> 01:06:20.780
stars and you can continue the discussion on

01:06:20.780 --> 01:06:23.519
the free competition, climbing discord linked

01:06:23.519 --> 01:06:25.940
in the description. Thanks again for listening.