35: Anna Apel, Team Germany’s Young Gun

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Yeah, after China I definitely get a lot of pressure.

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Because I kind of saw what was possible and...

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Weeks or months where nothing is going in the right direction and you kind of get weaker

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and weaker and don't really know what is going wrong.

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I think the weirdest part was that I was climbing next to Janja and she's one of my role models

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and yeah, complete idol.

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We are having stricture BMI rules here in Germany than the IFSC.

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Welcome to another episode of the That's Not World Climbing podcast.

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I'm your host Jinni and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today, Anna Apel.

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Anna is a boulder and lead climber from Team Germany and one of the younger athletes I've

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interviewed so far as she still competed in Youth World Champs last year.

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In this episode we'll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the

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pressure of expectations after flashing all qualies boulders in Innsbruck, and we get

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some insight into Team Germany and BMI testing.

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I hope you enjoy this episode with Anna.

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Real quick, I'm excited to announce my new sponsor helping make this podcast episode

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Back to the show.

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How are you doing today?

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Good.

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I had a rest day today, so it was a very chill day.

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It was very snowy in Munich today, but yeah, nice day.

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Do you like the snow or no?

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I like the snow, but it was a lot of traffic on the road, so that was a bit problematic.

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Yeah, I do not miss the snow.

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I moved away from that a while ago and I'm happy to not experience it anymore.

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Yeah, so you're just spending time at home in Germany?

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Yeah, currently we're like in our training, just doing our normal training in our training

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center.

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So here in Munich and in Augsburg.

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Yeah, so right in the depths of winter training.

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Do you spend a lot of time traveling during the winter season or is that just reserved

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for when it's World Cups?

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Currently I'm more or less all the time in Munich.

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Sometimes I'm traveling to Innsbruck or also to Bricsen or Brunach just to see some other

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settings and other gyms.

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But the main traveling will be during the World Cup scene and all the comps.

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Do you find it helps to just stay in one place during your big winter training season?

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It helps you stay focused or something like that?

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Yeah, because here is like my training days and the people I know and my coach and it

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makes it a bit more simple for me.

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Cool, so let's get right into it.

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When did you start climbing and then competing?

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I started climbing very early.

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So at the age of three, my parents took me to the rock and yeah, I kind of started to

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get in touch with climbing and climb my first routes and also had a lot of fun doing that.

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Do you actually remember climbing when you're like three years old?

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No, I can't remember climbing.

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I know what my first route was.

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It was called Binna Maja and I got my first climbing shoes because I topped the route,

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but I don't really know how I felt.

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I just know from like tellings and stories that I really liked it to be outside and climb.

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And then I also started competing here in Munich on like smaller comps and I was not

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immediately on the top, so I needed some time.

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And yeah, then from time to time and more comps, I also got better.

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And yeah, I always enjoyed climbing and training.

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So that was kind of what kept me on the comp climbing.

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How old were you when you started doing competitions?

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I think I was about like six or seven years old.

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Oh, that's super young.

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Wow.

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Yeah.

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And then those were more fun comps.

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Then from the age 10 on, I started to compete in like the Bavarian scene and then on the

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national scene and yeah, then also some international comps.

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Do you remember like, did you feel pressure when you were doing even like the fun competitions

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or?

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No, I think there was never a lot of pressure on me also.

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My parents never told me to get like any specific results and I was always happy when I got,

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for example, into finals because I was always kind of a person who wanted to be on the big

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stage and I really enjoyed, for example, the presentation for finals.

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So that was kind of my goal to be like in the spotlight, but I never put me under pressure

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to get like completely specific results during like the early start of my career.

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And of course, from time to time and from, yeah, also with better results, the pressure

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got bigger and a lot of people also kind of put pressure on me, but I always try to like

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stay in my bubble and still enjoy the training and climbing process more than just putting

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myself under pressure to get good results.

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And since you started so early, did your parents also climb?

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Yeah.

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So my parents also climb and that's why they took me to the rock.

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Just outdoor?

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Did they also compete and stuff too?

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No, no.

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They just climbed for fun and still do it for fun.

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And my brother is also still climbing, but no comps.

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Do you feel like you're generally a very competitive person?

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Is that why or what like draws you specifically to competing?

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Yeah, for sure.

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I'm a very like, I'm a competitive person and also compare myself to a lot of other

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people also in like other areas, not just in climbing.

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And I also always strive to like get the best version out of me.

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Yeah.

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So you're definitely one of like the younger athletes that I've interviewed so far and

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you're still competing in the youth circuit right now?

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Last year I still competed in the youth circuit, also climbed on Youth Worlds, but in this season

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I won't be competing in the youths anymore.

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I'm too old.

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Okay, yeah, I guess you're just on the cusp of aging out of it.

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So like last year you were still competing in the youth circuit, but you were also doing

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the senior circuit as well.

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Why did you decide to compete in both?

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It doesn't seem like a lot of people do that.

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They kind of just like graduate from one to the other and then they don't go back to youth.

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It was not really like a decision I made.

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It just came like that.

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I also competed in World Cups already, I think three years ago.

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But at that time I don't know, placed 16th or yeah, just not near the semis.

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And then like over the last two years I competed on some World Cups, but just on the ones here

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in Europe.

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And yeah, then just last year I started to climb more on the World Cups and in the senior

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scene because I got stronger and saw that there's potential that I could climb into

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semis or even finals.

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And that's why the German coaches decided that I can start on World Cups as well.

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As well as in the youth scene.

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But they still wanted you to participate in the youth competitions?

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No, I wanted to compete in the youth competitions.

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I also just won European Cup and the Youth World Championships because I wanted to compete

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in my last Youth World Championships.

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That was just my decision because I wanted to go there.

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Like the location specifically or did you want to, like were you hoping for a specific

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result?

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Yeah, I was definitely hoping for a specific result.

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And yeah, my chances were also very good.

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And I feel like in the youth circuit, I mean, I know all the girls who climb there and yeah,

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it was just a nice comp, I would say.

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And also a comp where I could just kind of enjoy climbing.

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Yeah, how did it end up going?

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Was it a good time?

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Was it everything you hoped for your last Youth World Championships?

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Unfortunately not.

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I messed up lead climbing in semifinals because just of a stupid mistake.

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And in bouldering, I was feeling strong until finals and then in finals, I felt super weak.

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And after the third problem, I just couldn't get something out of my body anymore.

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And then I placed third.

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So it was a good result and I wanted to have a medal, but it was not the color of the medal

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I was aiming for.

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Sure.

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I mean, yeah, that's not bad at all though.

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In terms of, is there like monetary prizes for the youth circuit as well?

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No, no, no.

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So it's just for bragging rights.

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And so then how does the youth circuit compare to the senior circuit?

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Do you feel like the competition is just as strong in youth or is it easier?

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So of course the setting is kind of different.

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Often in the youth circuit, the boulders are set differently than in the world cup circuit.

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Can you sort of articulate what the differences are?

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I don't know.

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It's just kind of a different style sometimes.

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And in the bouldering world cup, for example, the qualification, the boulders are often

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kind of straight ups because of the like not that much space.

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And in the youth circuit, often they are more like coordination boulders or yeah, a bit

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more variety maybe.

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And last year I didn't have that much crush on the youth circuit because I knew that I

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was one of the stronger girls.

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So it was maybe a bit easier for me, for example, to win.

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But of course there are also more expectations when you're kind of the strongest.

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So the people also expected from me that I would win.

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And when I'm going to a world cup, the people more likely don't expect me to win the world

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cup.

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Of course, I'm also aiming for a very good result on a world cup and want to climb into

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finals.

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But if I miss finals or even the semifinals, not everybody will look at me and say, what

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did you do?

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Because I'm still young enough and there will still be a lot of chances for me in the

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world cup scene.

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Yeah, you also did a couple of senior comps in 2023.

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But the results were definitely not as good as your 2024 season.

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What do you feel like changed for you between those two years?

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That's an interesting question because I don't really know.

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So of course, I graduated in 2023 and then I kind of had more free time and more time

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to train.

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And the time I had, I think I trained a lot.

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So from 2003 to 2024, I started to make more double sessions.

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And I don't know, I think I kind of doubled my training pencil.

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And I think that was one of the main reasons why I just got stronger.

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Yeah, and I really, really tried hard because I knew that when I give everything in that

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year, I can also get very far.

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And then I already saw at the nomination comps that I'm like one of the stronger girls.

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We also had some simulations with the Slovenians and the Austrians.

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And I was kind of shocked because I saw, oh my gosh, I can really, I can climb very good.

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And then when the first World Cup came up in China, my only goal was to make my first

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World Cup top.

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And yeah, then I did my first World Cup top and then I told myself I want to get into

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my first semifinal and then I was super happy to get into my first semifinal.

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And yeah, I think this comp kind of showed me that I really grew into that World Cup

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scene.

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Like from over the years, I gained more experience.

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And yeah, in the last year, I could kind of show that I'm already having some experience

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and because of the training, I got stronger and then I could also just bring it to the

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wall.

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Yeah.

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Was your first semis also in China, like where you got the first top?

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Yeah.

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Okay.

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Yeah.

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Awesome.

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So you like greatly exceeded your expectations for that competition.

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I guess after that moment, did you kind of feel like pressure start to come in now that

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you've kind of exceeded your expectations and you want to recreate that kind of moment?

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Yeah.

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After China, I definitely get a lot of pressure because I kind of saw what was possible and

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that it could even be possible to climb into finals.

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And then I thought I also have to climb into semis in Salt Lake.

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And then I kind of got sick in Salt Lake and nothing really worked out.

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And it was just not my comp.

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And then I placed I think 24th or 25th, 5th, I'm not sure, but I was out of semis and it

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was very, very hard for me.

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But then I kind of told myself, okay, it's a world cup.

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It's not just small competition where you just climb into semis like easy peasy.

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I mean, if you're also sick, like...

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Yeah, yeah, for sure.

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And then the pressure kind of fell off because then I saw, okay, you can climb into semis,

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but you don't have to get into semis.

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It's the goal, but it's not kind of my duty.

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And then in Innsbruck, I could just climb how I wanted and yeah, was completely free

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in my mind.

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And I think I had the best mindset I ever had in my whole comp career in Innsbruck because

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I didn't have to overthink anything.

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I was just warming up before a normal training session and told my coach I just want to have

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fun in the mats and that was also what I did.

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Yeah, I think you mentioned that that was maybe the best moment of your climbing career

00:19:41,480 --> 00:19:42,480
so far.

00:19:42,480 --> 00:19:43,480
Yeah.

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Did you say that you flashed all the quali boulders in Innsbruck?

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Yeah.

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I flashed all of them and I looked at my coach and was like, am I dreaming or what is going

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wrong here?

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Yeah.

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What was your coach's reaction?

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I don't know.

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I think they just looked at me and were screaming and were the happiest people ever.

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Yeah.

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I think they were also kind of speechless.

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Yeah.

00:20:14,560 --> 00:20:16,240
No, that's super awesome.

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I can't even imagine how that would feel.

00:20:19,080 --> 00:20:24,480
I guess how does it feel going out into summies as the last person going out?

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Weird.

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Very weird.

00:20:26,480 --> 00:20:34,040
I think the weirdest part was that I was climbing next to Janja and she's one of my role models

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and yeah, complete idol.

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And I couldn't really concentrate on myself because of course the crowd was behind Janja

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and not really behind me.

00:20:51,080 --> 00:20:58,960
But it also kind of hyped me up because it was very loud and it was also very loud for

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me and that was kind of pushing me and yeah, it felt good.

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And it was not really putting me under pressure that I was the last person going out because

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I knew that I won't flash every boulder in semis.

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So it was, yeah, I still just enjoyed it and enjoyed climbing in semis because that was

00:21:29,600 --> 00:21:34,000
my goal and I already, yeah, achieved it.

00:21:34,000 --> 00:21:35,000
Awesome.

00:21:35,000 --> 00:21:36,000
Yeah.

00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:44,960
So would you want to be in that position again or would you prefer a different, I guess,

00:21:44,960 --> 00:21:47,000
starting list in semis?

00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:53,400
I know some people prefer to go out sooner or later.

00:21:53,400 --> 00:21:55,400
I think it doesn't really matter for me.

00:21:55,400 --> 00:22:03,680
In Prague, I was kind of starting, I think, in the middle into semis and it also felt

00:22:03,680 --> 00:22:04,680
good.

00:22:04,680 --> 00:22:10,920
So in China, I started as the first person, in Innsbruck as the last person and in Prague

00:22:10,920 --> 00:22:14,320
as the middle person and everything was good.

00:22:14,320 --> 00:22:15,320
Okay.

00:22:15,320 --> 00:22:17,680
So it doesn't matter for me.

00:22:17,680 --> 00:22:18,680
Awesome.

00:22:18,680 --> 00:22:19,680
Okay.

00:22:19,680 --> 00:22:21,440
Just having a good time climbing.

00:22:21,440 --> 00:22:26,000
You also mentioned that you feel like a lot of young guns are breaking through the comp

00:22:26,000 --> 00:22:28,880
scene right now.

00:22:28,880 --> 00:22:32,860
Do you feel like, is there something about youth climbers you feel are better suited

00:22:32,860 --> 00:22:34,300
for the World Cups right now?

00:22:34,300 --> 00:22:39,080
Is it just a style thing or is it an age thing, do you think?

00:22:39,080 --> 00:22:40,080
I don't know.

00:22:40,080 --> 00:22:49,920
I think at the first World Cups, maybe the youth climbers can be kind of more chilled

00:22:49,920 --> 00:22:55,720
because when you're climbing, for example, on your first World Cup, not everybody is

00:22:55,720 --> 00:23:03,600
looking at you and you can be a bit more relaxed in your mind and that's maybe sometimes helping

00:23:03,600 --> 00:23:09,480
you because with expectations, the pressure is also rising and then it's sometimes harder

00:23:09,480 --> 00:23:14,160
to get you climbing to the wall.

00:23:14,160 --> 00:23:18,720
And for sure, I think the youth scene is also very strong.

00:23:18,720 --> 00:23:31,360
So there are a lot of strong people climbing and yeah, maybe also the style from the World

00:23:31,360 --> 00:23:36,240
Cups, which is often very new school.

00:23:36,240 --> 00:23:44,200
I think a lot of the younger climbers and youth climbers trained this new school style

00:23:44,200 --> 00:23:46,840
from a very early age on.

00:23:46,840 --> 00:24:01,280
So I did double dinos also already five years ago and I think a lot of the older athletes

00:24:01,280 --> 00:24:09,160
sometimes struggle with dynamic boulders or very coordinated boulders because they didn't

00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:11,080
do it in the early age.

00:24:11,080 --> 00:24:15,800
Yeah, I've also heard some people say that they're kind of like bringing back power boulders

00:24:15,800 --> 00:24:18,920
or like maybe old school like crimp moves.

00:24:18,920 --> 00:24:23,640
How do you feel on those growing up like doing all the dynamic stuff?

00:24:23,640 --> 00:24:24,920
I like both.

00:24:24,920 --> 00:24:30,480
So I also really like old school boulders.

00:24:30,480 --> 00:24:40,160
I mean, I started on the rock and rock climbing for me is also kind of an old school climbing.

00:24:40,160 --> 00:24:48,280
So I really like both styles and I feel like the mixture of like new school boulders and

00:24:48,280 --> 00:24:56,360
old school boulders would be perfect when you're having like one very hard and powerful

00:24:56,360 --> 00:25:02,840
old school boulder but also maybe a fun coordinated jump.

00:25:02,840 --> 00:25:03,840
Yeah.

00:25:03,840 --> 00:25:06,760
Okay, sounds like you're an all-arounder then.

00:25:06,760 --> 00:25:11,680
Okay, so then let's get into what it's like on Team Germany.

00:25:11,680 --> 00:25:16,960
I think you're like the first German athlete that I've interviewed.

00:25:16,960 --> 00:25:23,680
So yeah, you mentioned like training camps and like a national training center.

00:25:23,680 --> 00:25:26,640
Do you guys generally train together as a team?

00:25:26,640 --> 00:25:30,420
Please excuse this brief intermission but if you're interested in deleted scenes from

00:25:30,420 --> 00:25:35,160
this episode where we talk about her preferred boulder style and her training routine, do

00:25:35,160 --> 00:25:38,620
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00:25:38,620 --> 00:25:42,560
Some other perks include a membership pin shipped to you after two months, prioritize

00:25:42,560 --> 00:25:47,540
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00:25:47,540 --> 00:25:51,780
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00:25:51,780 --> 00:25:54,180
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00:25:59,760 --> 00:26:01,120
Back to the show.

00:26:01,120 --> 00:26:10,480
Yeah, so the German national team is having its training center here in Munich-Türkirchen

00:26:10,480 --> 00:26:19,080
and they're also group trainings and sometimes training camps and special setting but I'm

00:26:19,080 --> 00:26:30,640
also still training with the Bavarian squad in Augsburg which is also kind of a regional

00:26:30,640 --> 00:26:45,000
training center and there are also very good training facilities especially for leap climbing

00:26:45,000 --> 00:26:54,400
and that's why I'm training with the Bavarians and also with the adults from the German team

00:26:54,400 --> 00:27:05,640
and yeah there are also still some people who live in Cologne and training there but

00:27:05,640 --> 00:27:08,360
that's kind of a different group.

00:27:08,360 --> 00:27:13,240
So is it like your five days a week, is that with the whole team or is it a lot of that

00:27:13,240 --> 00:27:14,720
like by yourself too?

00:27:14,720 --> 00:27:23,480
So it's a mixture on Tuesday and on Thursday I'm training with the Bavarian team and on

00:27:23,480 --> 00:27:34,760
Monday I'm training with the adult German team and the other days they are very like

00:27:34,760 --> 00:27:40,480
sometimes I'm training alone, sometimes I'm training with some people here in the gyms

00:27:40,480 --> 00:27:49,280
and some friends I just know from climbing so that really depends on what my mood is

00:27:49,280 --> 00:27:53,040
and what my session will look like.

00:27:53,040 --> 00:27:57,660
And then in terms of like training with the German team, is there anyone on the team you

00:27:57,660 --> 00:28:02,760
really look up to or you feel like you have either like a really similar style to or really

00:28:02,760 --> 00:28:07,640
different style to that really helps with your training as well?

00:28:07,640 --> 00:28:18,840
So I think I have kind of a similar style maybe to Hannah Meier but we are not often

00:28:18,840 --> 00:28:23,800
training together because she's living in Cologne and I'm living in Munich and that

00:28:23,800 --> 00:28:29,600
makes it sometimes a bit harder to train together.

00:28:29,600 --> 00:28:39,160
But I feel like in our German team we're all very have very different styles but yeah and

00:28:39,160 --> 00:28:46,120
maybe Lucia we also kind of maybe having more or less similar style.

00:28:46,120 --> 00:28:50,800
Yeah I mean I guess there are also a lot of like strong women on the team.

00:28:50,800 --> 00:28:57,860
I guess how's the dynamic there like do you feel very competitive against them or is it

00:28:57,860 --> 00:29:00,360
more like a friendly vibe?

00:29:00,360 --> 00:29:09,840
So in training it's friendly-wide because we train together and we all know each other

00:29:09,840 --> 00:29:19,160
and also I think we all want to kind of get the best out of ourselves but also want to

00:29:19,160 --> 00:29:23,040
support the others.

00:29:23,040 --> 00:29:31,840
But of course we are having nomination comps and we are more girls than we have spots and

00:29:31,840 --> 00:29:41,320
yeah then on the nomination comes we for sure are competitive and everybody wants to have

00:29:41,320 --> 00:29:52,920
a spot and yeah then in the comp we're yeah of course comparing each other.

00:29:52,920 --> 00:29:57,280
But I think that's also very normal.

00:29:57,280 --> 00:30:03,040
But after the comp and before the comp we are all very good friends and yeah.

00:30:03,040 --> 00:30:04,040
Just not during.

00:30:04,040 --> 00:30:07,400
Also support each other.

00:30:07,400 --> 00:30:14,640
And you mentioned that you recently finished taking tests to get the sports soldier I guess

00:30:14,640 --> 00:30:16,840
what would you call it?

00:30:16,840 --> 00:30:20,120
Position role like nomination?

00:30:20,120 --> 00:30:35,800
So it's kind of the support program from yeah the German military and it's supporting us

00:30:35,800 --> 00:30:42,000
like some special athletes so they are not a lot of spots.

00:30:42,000 --> 00:30:52,400
I'm also currently the only girl which is supported by the military.

00:30:52,400 --> 00:31:05,280
It's a very good support system and it's giving me a lot of time for training and also I can

00:31:05,280 --> 00:31:18,800
be financial independent and yeah it's a very very good program for me and I'm very happy

00:31:18,800 --> 00:31:23,280
to be supported by the German military.

00:31:23,280 --> 00:31:27,800
Like with the tests that you have to take for it like what does that entail?

00:31:27,800 --> 00:31:35,760
We have to be on a specific kind of team so there's the national team but there's also

00:31:35,760 --> 00:31:42,760
the Olympic team and the perspective team I don't know.

00:31:42,760 --> 00:31:54,560
And I had to be in this specific team and need to have a chance to get to the Olympic

00:31:54,560 --> 00:32:02,960
Games and a perspective to get better in the next years.

00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:07,000
So they have like specific requirements I guess based on like your results?

00:32:07,000 --> 00:32:19,920
No they're not like specific requirements but you need to be good over a lot of years

00:32:19,920 --> 00:32:23,720
and otherwise you will be kicked out.

00:32:23,720 --> 00:32:25,760
Oh yeah okay.

00:32:25,760 --> 00:32:29,720
Does it manage to like support you full time or do you also have to take on like other

00:32:29,720 --> 00:32:32,640
jobs at a gym or anything like that?

00:32:32,640 --> 00:32:36,000
No no they're supporting me full time.

00:32:36,000 --> 00:32:45,040
Of course I won't be getting rich but yeah it's enough to live.

00:32:45,040 --> 00:32:49,000
Do you have any like plans of school or other work in the future?

00:32:49,000 --> 00:32:50,000
Yeah.

00:32:50,000 --> 00:33:03,600
No no I would like to study and thinking about psychology or maybe also get a teacher.

00:33:03,600 --> 00:33:07,640
But I'm still deciding I'm not sure.

00:33:07,640 --> 00:33:14,520
In terms of like timelines since you do spend a lot of time training is that something you

00:33:14,520 --> 00:33:19,520
would want to push off until after maybe you're like done with your climbing career or is

00:33:19,520 --> 00:33:23,440
it something that you kind of have to like do at the same time?

00:33:23,440 --> 00:33:37,120
I think maybe I will start studying like next year or in two years also to kind of get something

00:33:37,120 --> 00:33:45,920
next to climbing because when you're always concentrating only on one thing it will also

00:33:45,920 --> 00:33:58,720
yeah kind of be stressful maybe and I think having something besides climbing could also

00:33:58,720 --> 00:34:02,120
help me from time to time.

00:34:02,120 --> 00:34:07,280
But of course I will still do climbing as my full time.

00:34:07,280 --> 00:34:08,800
Yeah okay that makes sense.

00:34:08,800 --> 00:34:13,240
How are you feeling for like the upcoming 2025 season?

00:34:13,240 --> 00:34:25,120
I'm really looking forward to the 2025 season and yeah I'm already very very excited.

00:34:25,120 --> 00:34:33,880
Of course I have a bit more pressure than I had last year at this time because I know

00:34:33,880 --> 00:34:45,960
that there are more people who expect something from me but I think I'm currently very very

00:34:45,960 --> 00:35:02,200
good also mentally and also training wise I'm on the right way and feeling strong.

00:35:02,200 --> 00:35:12,280
So yeah I feel like I'm ready and also ready maybe to get better results than last year

00:35:12,280 --> 00:35:17,960
and yeah I'm excited.

00:35:17,960 --> 00:35:23,800
Do you have any like specific goals for the season or any world cups that you're particularly

00:35:23,800 --> 00:35:25,000
excited for?

00:35:25,000 --> 00:35:32,720
I would really really like to get into my first final on the world cup because it was

00:35:32,720 --> 00:35:38,960
so so close on two comps last year to get into the world cup final.

00:35:38,960 --> 00:35:42,600
Yeah you had like some eighth places right?

00:35:42,600 --> 00:35:52,720
Yeah I had two eighth places because of one try so I would be very happy if that goal

00:35:52,720 --> 00:36:00,840
could be achieved and I'm also looking forward to the world cup in Brazil because I've never

00:36:00,840 --> 00:36:07,320
been to Brazil and I feel like that's very it sounds very exciting a world cup in Brazil

00:36:07,320 --> 00:36:20,640
and apart from the bouldering world cup scene I'm hoping to get some spots on the lead world

00:36:20,640 --> 00:36:31,840
cup scene next year to get some experience in lead climbing because I really yeah also

00:36:31,840 --> 00:36:40,520
like to climb on the rope and yeah that would be great if that could work out next year

00:36:40,520 --> 00:36:43,600
to climb on both disciplines.

00:36:43,600 --> 00:36:47,400
Yeah I guess that's like kind of surprising to hear because I feel like a lot of people

00:36:47,400 --> 00:36:52,960
would prefer to just do one or the other and they kind of only did both because they had

00:36:52,960 --> 00:36:56,920
to for like the combined format.

00:36:56,920 --> 00:37:01,960
If they like get rid of the combined format and separate out boulder and lead would you

00:37:01,960 --> 00:37:03,400
still want to do both?

00:37:03,400 --> 00:37:13,280
Yeah I would still like to do both because I can't decide what discipline I prefer but

00:37:13,280 --> 00:37:21,640
I think in April it will be decided if in LA it will be a combined format or separated

00:37:21,640 --> 00:37:31,080
so yeah I think then maybe I still have to decide but we will see.

00:37:31,080 --> 00:37:35,760
Well I mean you could still do both and be great at both but it's good to know that it's

00:37:35,760 --> 00:37:38,280
in April I didn't hear a date about that.

00:37:38,280 --> 00:37:41,560
I'm not completely sure but I thought in April.

00:37:41,560 --> 00:37:45,040
I'll have to keep an eye out.

00:37:45,040 --> 00:37:49,720
Is it like do you know if like your coaches are going to kind of try to force you to pick

00:37:49,720 --> 00:37:54,200
one or the other so that you have like a better chance or will you be able to continue doing

00:37:54,200 --> 00:37:55,200
both?

00:37:55,200 --> 00:38:06,160
I think I would still be able to do both but maybe not like I think I would have to maybe

00:38:06,160 --> 00:38:16,200
stop competing in one discipline because doing both disciplines all World Cups is too much.

00:38:16,200 --> 00:38:25,880
That's yeah too many comps but I still feel like when I'm training lead I'm also getting

00:38:25,880 --> 00:38:33,720
better in bouldering so I don't feel like I'm stopping one discipline completely which

00:38:33,720 --> 00:38:34,960
helped me.

00:38:34,960 --> 00:38:42,360
I think I still need to like to train both disciplines to get stronger.

00:38:42,360 --> 00:38:46,920
Yeah I would be really interested to see if they break it out who ends up competing in

00:38:46,920 --> 00:38:53,920
both and if they're successful in doing trying to do both at the same time.

00:38:53,920 --> 00:39:00,720
Yeah I'd be really interested to see that but yeah earlier you mentioned that you are

00:39:00,720 --> 00:39:06,400
just doing like climbing and training full time now but it is nice to like have something

00:39:06,400 --> 00:39:11,000
on the side to not always be focused on the same thing.

00:39:11,000 --> 00:39:16,520
I mean I guess right now you are always focused on climbing.

00:39:16,520 --> 00:39:21,820
Is there anything else that you're doing outside of climbing right now that you like do to

00:39:21,820 --> 00:39:24,560
take your mind off of it?

00:39:24,560 --> 00:39:33,080
Yeah for sure there of course when I'm having a rest day I'm doing a lot of other things.

00:39:33,080 --> 00:39:47,000
I really like to be creative and I'm sewing a lot so and sewing clothes and yeah I'm

00:39:47,000 --> 00:39:59,760
also often baking or cooking or yeah I think I'm having a lot of different hobbies which

00:39:59,760 --> 00:40:10,360
I'm doing yeah and I also like when I'm for example having some time where I'm not climbing

00:40:10,360 --> 00:40:19,600
for example in my season break I really really like to just go to the mountains and be outside

00:40:19,600 --> 00:40:23,480
do other things than just climbing.

00:40:23,480 --> 00:40:31,280
I'm also sometimes doing downhilling or other sports.

00:40:31,280 --> 00:40:33,240
Wait what is downhilling?

00:40:33,240 --> 00:40:35,760
Like with a bike.

00:40:35,760 --> 00:40:38,800
Oh okay like mountain biking or is that different?

00:40:38,800 --> 00:40:47,600
Yeah yeah no it's kind of mountain biking but you're going up the hill with the lift

00:40:47,600 --> 00:40:50,080
and then just driving down.

00:40:50,080 --> 00:40:53,800
Okay okay so just the thrill part.

00:40:53,800 --> 00:40:57,480
Yeah just the fun part.

00:40:57,480 --> 00:41:05,880
Or in winter I'm going skiing often also sometimes on the weekend or yeah.

00:41:05,880 --> 00:41:08,560
That sounds good.

00:41:08,560 --> 00:41:14,360
Something I don't hear about too often is there like anything that you've made recently

00:41:14,360 --> 00:41:17,160
that you would want to show?

00:41:17,160 --> 00:41:19,640
Oh yeah I have two things here.

00:41:19,640 --> 00:41:20,640
Oh perfect.

00:41:20,640 --> 00:41:30,600
I put this one here and this little shirt.

00:41:30,600 --> 00:41:33,640
It looks really tiny.

00:41:33,640 --> 00:41:35,480
Yeah it's also for a baby.

00:41:35,480 --> 00:41:41,240
Oh okay okay it's hard to tell because when we're recording the quality is not very good.

00:41:41,240 --> 00:41:44,040
I think it'll be better once it's downloaded but okay.

00:41:44,040 --> 00:41:47,280
I couldn't tell if that was like supposed to be for you and it was just like a really

00:41:47,280 --> 00:41:48,280
tight shirt.

00:41:48,280 --> 00:41:49,280
No.

00:41:49,280 --> 00:41:50,280
Okay awesome.

00:41:50,280 --> 00:41:53,640
Is that like for like a family member or like?

00:41:53,640 --> 00:41:56,200
Oh we will see we will see no.

00:41:56,200 --> 00:42:05,120
I'm just just doing stuff and then I'm giving it away to other people when I see them.

00:42:05,120 --> 00:42:07,200
Yeah what's your like favorite thing to sew?

00:42:07,200 --> 00:42:08,200
I don't know.

00:42:08,200 --> 00:42:09,200
I do everything.

00:42:09,200 --> 00:42:11,760
How long have you been doing it for?

00:42:11,760 --> 00:42:19,080
I think my grandma showed me how to sew so I think I was five years old or something

00:42:19,080 --> 00:42:20,080
like that.

00:42:20,080 --> 00:42:23,160
Glad that you have something else to take your mind off of climbing.

00:42:23,160 --> 00:42:26,920
Were you gonna say something else about the sewing earlier?

00:42:26,920 --> 00:42:38,200
Sometimes when I'm also like not training for for comps I'm also sometimes just going

00:42:38,200 --> 00:42:46,440
on the rock so I'm still trying to find some time to go rock climbing especially in the

00:42:46,440 --> 00:42:47,440
off season.

00:42:47,440 --> 00:42:50,520
Yeah are there like any projects that you're working on?

00:42:50,520 --> 00:42:54,800
Currently not specifically.

00:42:54,800 --> 00:43:04,080
Also just climbing on a rope outside so I'm not really I'm doing bouldering outside just

00:43:04,080 --> 00:43:17,760
rope climbing but I still have an open project in Niciapek in Slovenia and one at Hotachberg

00:43:17,760 --> 00:43:22,600
it's in in Kempten here in the Varia.

00:43:22,600 --> 00:43:26,120
It's not very well known I don't know.

00:43:26,120 --> 00:43:30,160
Okay that's something you're working on.

00:43:30,160 --> 00:43:35,920
Well I think those are all the questions I had so we can move on to some of the discord

00:43:35,920 --> 00:43:39,960
questions and Instagram questions that came through.

00:43:39,960 --> 00:43:46,620
The first one what do you find to be the hardest part of being an athlete?

00:43:46,620 --> 00:43:53,760
So I really enjoy being an athlete so I feel like it's not super hard for me to be an athlete

00:43:53,760 --> 00:44:03,840
but of course there are some things you also struggle as an athlete so it's of course there

00:44:03,840 --> 00:44:15,080
are times where I'm not motivated to go climbing but yeah it's still kind of my duty and I

00:44:15,080 --> 00:44:28,560
yeah I always try to go climbing still and always giving your everything and trying to

00:44:28,560 --> 00:44:34,280
get the best version out of yourself is also not always easy and of course there are sometimes

00:44:34,280 --> 00:44:42,800
yeah weeks or months where nothing is going in the right direction and you kind of get

00:44:42,800 --> 00:44:50,280
weaker and weaker and don't really know what is going wrong and those times are of course

00:44:50,280 --> 00:44:59,440
hard where you don't really understand why nothing's working out but I'm very glad that

00:44:59,440 --> 00:45:01,540
those times are not that often.

00:45:01,540 --> 00:45:07,600
How do you get out of those slumps I guess or have you ever figured out afterwards like

00:45:07,600 --> 00:45:10,880
why something was going wrong for a long time?

00:45:10,880 --> 00:45:17,560
Often it's just for example when I'm over training so maybe doing too much and then

00:45:17,560 --> 00:45:29,440
yeah maybe one rest day or two are helpful and then often the things are also again going

00:45:29,440 --> 00:45:36,560
in the right direction and I'm very happy that I have never been injured but I think

00:45:36,560 --> 00:45:43,520
that's also kind of a very bad part for an athlete and hard part to be injured and when

00:45:43,520 --> 00:45:51,640
you're not able to do the thing you're normally doing every day and thinking about in every

00:45:51,640 --> 00:45:57,400
second but I'm happy that I'm injury free.

00:45:57,400 --> 00:46:01,720
Yeah definitely and I hope you do stay that way.

00:46:01,720 --> 00:46:10,040
Then another hard part sometimes with being an athlete is of course being under pressure

00:46:10,040 --> 00:46:20,180
all the time and also the traveling for me sometimes so being away from home sometimes

00:46:20,180 --> 00:46:28,920
really for months and living out of the suitcase and being in hotels it's sometimes not that

00:46:28,920 --> 00:46:35,880
easy and sometimes you just want to lie in your own bed.

00:46:35,880 --> 00:46:36,880
Yeah that makes sense.

00:46:36,880 --> 00:46:42,160
I guess what do you find to be like the most difficult part about traveling?

00:46:42,160 --> 00:46:46,480
For me it's flying and going in the airplane.

00:46:46,480 --> 00:46:48,560
I don't really like to fly.

00:46:48,560 --> 00:46:49,560
Oh really?

00:46:49,560 --> 00:46:50,560
Yeah.

00:46:50,560 --> 00:46:53,000
You like it scared of planes or?

00:46:53,000 --> 00:47:00,400
I don't know I just don't really like it I also don't like to be at the airport it's

00:47:00,400 --> 00:47:06,160
just not my favorite part.

00:47:06,160 --> 00:47:15,400
And just being for such a long time away from home and often sometimes being in a country

00:47:15,400 --> 00:47:24,760
where you don't really enjoy being and sometimes you're not in a beautiful city or in a nice

00:47:24,760 --> 00:47:36,440
hotel sometimes it's just not super nice it's not like vacation.

00:47:36,440 --> 00:47:42,600
You still have to kind of prepare yourself for the camp and often you also don't really

00:47:42,600 --> 00:47:46,120
see much of the place you're going.

00:47:46,120 --> 00:47:55,440
It's very often just going there maybe going to one of the gyms near the hotel and being

00:47:55,440 --> 00:47:58,760
at the venue.

00:47:58,760 --> 00:48:03,040
Yeah I guess like do you feel like you don't really get a chance to travel because the

00:48:03,040 --> 00:48:07,520
competition is on your mind or you just like really don't have the time?

00:48:07,520 --> 00:48:13,360
Sometimes you really don't have the time and sometimes of course you're also just too concentrated

00:48:13,360 --> 00:48:23,880
on the camp but I also always try to kind of experience as much as possible from the

00:48:23,880 --> 00:48:31,200
city and from the people there because that also kind of helps you to not overthink the

00:48:31,200 --> 00:48:40,560
competition sometimes seeing maybe something of the city or just maybe strolling and I

00:48:40,560 --> 00:48:47,240
don't know going to this grocery store or something like that it's sometimes also very

00:48:47,240 --> 00:48:55,120
helpful to not just think about the camp on the next day or.

00:48:55,120 --> 00:48:56,120
Yeah that makes sense.

00:48:56,120 --> 00:49:00,800
I feel like I would kind of get stuck in the mindset of like okay I'm here I'm not allowed

00:49:00,800 --> 00:49:05,560
to do anything else except for think about the competition.

00:49:05,560 --> 00:49:10,520
Okay so next question I don't know if this one is like very specific to you or if this

00:49:10,520 --> 00:49:16,120
person just wants like to know in general so let me know if you feel like you have like

00:49:16,120 --> 00:49:23,580
a specific I don't know expertise in this but the question is just tips on improving

00:49:23,580 --> 00:49:24,580
arm strength.

00:49:24,580 --> 00:49:27,600
I also don't know if it's specific for me.

00:49:27,600 --> 00:49:31,880
Do you feel like that's like a big strength of yours or?

00:49:31,880 --> 00:49:43,960
Yeah I think it's one of my main strengths so I think I have stronger arms than legs

00:49:43,960 --> 00:49:50,440
and I also really like to train arms.

00:49:50,440 --> 00:50:01,880
What I'm doing in training is pull ups so weighted pull ups and I'm doing a lot of

00:50:01,880 --> 00:50:08,900
campers thing so campers thing on the campus part but also on the spray wall and that's

00:50:08,900 --> 00:50:20,280
also one of my favorite parts of training sometimes because I really like to just yeah

00:50:20,280 --> 00:50:27,080
campers and boulders and swing around on the spray wall and I feel like that's also very

00:50:27,080 --> 00:50:31,360
very very helpful to gain muscle strength.

00:50:31,360 --> 00:50:32,360
Perfect and easy.

00:50:32,360 --> 00:50:39,640
Okay next question curious about this too where can I buy the Germany down jacket?

00:50:39,640 --> 00:50:41,800
It does look very comfortable.

00:50:41,800 --> 00:50:43,800
No I don't know.

00:50:43,800 --> 00:50:45,480
Is it comfy?

00:50:45,480 --> 00:50:46,600
It looks amazing.

00:50:46,600 --> 00:50:52,080
I don't think I've seen any other team jackets that look as puffy and comfortable as the

00:50:52,080 --> 00:50:54,000
German one.

00:50:54,000 --> 00:51:01,280
Yeah I really like our German team clothes and also the down jacket but I'm not sure

00:51:01,280 --> 00:51:11,800
if it's available for sale and I think it's not it's not buyable but I'm also I don't

00:51:11,800 --> 00:51:12,800
know.

00:51:12,800 --> 00:51:14,160
Yeah it looks super comfy.

00:51:14,160 --> 00:51:15,680
I wish I had it.

00:51:15,680 --> 00:51:20,600
Okay another quick question so we did go over your like goals for the next climbing season

00:51:20,600 --> 00:51:23,600
do you have any like non-climbing related goals?

00:51:23,600 --> 00:51:38,040
Maybe get time to go on vacation without climbing because that's like one thing I didn't do

00:51:38,040 --> 00:51:47,400
now for a lot of years all of my vacations were always going somewhere and training there

00:51:47,400 --> 00:51:56,120
or going on the rock there or it was always kind of climbing related and I think next

00:51:56,120 --> 00:52:03,600
year I would like to do one vacation without climbing that would be very cool.

00:52:03,600 --> 00:52:05,040
Where would you want to go?

00:52:05,040 --> 00:52:11,560
I haven't thought about it but maybe something like Sweden or Norway.

00:52:11,560 --> 00:52:15,840
I feel like those might be locations where you would still want to climb a bit.

00:52:15,840 --> 00:52:22,000
You might be like a beach or something that just doesn't have like the option to climb.

00:52:22,000 --> 00:52:29,120
Yeah we will see but otherwise I don't know I don't have any specific goals just have

00:52:29,120 --> 00:52:30,120
a good year.

00:52:30,120 --> 00:52:37,320
Yeah I feel like your best bet is maybe going to like a resort where you just like stay

00:52:37,320 --> 00:52:42,720
on the resort and you don't have to think about anything and then probably won't think

00:52:42,720 --> 00:52:46,040
about climbing either because they don't have climbing at the resort.

00:52:46,040 --> 00:52:51,200
Something nice in like I don't know Thailand or like Mexico or something like that.

00:52:51,200 --> 00:52:55,040
Would be also nice yeah for sure.

00:52:55,040 --> 00:53:01,760
Okay last question hopefully you might be like hopefully you're comfortable speaking

00:53:01,760 --> 00:53:02,760
on this.

00:53:02,760 --> 00:53:08,680
What are your thoughts about the minimum BMI requirement?

00:53:08,680 --> 00:53:14,480
This person mentioned that there are former top German athletes who stopped competing

00:53:14,480 --> 00:53:18,760
due to the stress of weight loss.

00:53:18,760 --> 00:53:31,760
So I feel like it's very good that there are BMI regulations and I'm also very happy that

00:53:31,760 --> 00:53:42,720
they are stricter now and that the IFSC is trying to get like yeah this problem we are

00:53:42,720 --> 00:53:49,960
having in the climbing community yeah can solve the problem.

00:53:49,960 --> 00:54:01,000
I still feel like especially in the youth circuit there are not enough regulations because

00:54:01,000 --> 00:54:11,920
it's not like in the World Cups that there are a lot of testing and rules about the BMI

00:54:11,920 --> 00:54:19,480
but I feel like it's already a good step in the right direction that there are those tests

00:54:19,480 --> 00:54:27,560
on the World Cups but maybe the rules should be stricter and yeah there should be a bit

00:54:27,560 --> 00:54:33,000
more yeah problem solving.

00:54:33,000 --> 00:54:44,480
I don't really know about how there have been other German people having problems with the

00:54:44,480 --> 00:54:58,040
BMI tests but I know that the DAV so our federation is doing a lot against eating disorders and

00:54:58,040 --> 00:55:09,880
also we are having stricter BMI rules here in Germany than the IFSC so we need to have

00:55:09,880 --> 00:55:21,800
a higher BMI than the IFSC is having requiring.

00:55:21,800 --> 00:55:30,520
And also at our training camps and national comps there are also a lot of tests.

00:55:30,520 --> 00:55:37,360
Yeah I didn't know that there was no requirements or like restrictions for youth athletes though.

00:55:37,360 --> 00:55:44,720
The only restrictions we had was at Youth World there were some tests but they were

00:55:44,720 --> 00:55:56,160
also very randomly and not everybody was tested and also when the people have been under the

00:55:56,160 --> 00:56:03,880
BMI rules they were not really kind of stopped from competing.

00:56:03,880 --> 00:56:12,960
It was just tests but there was not really somebody doing with and doing something with

00:56:12,960 --> 00:56:15,800
this result.

00:56:15,800 --> 00:56:19,560
It was just a random test and then it was over.

00:56:19,560 --> 00:56:23,680
Is it like a warning or?

00:56:23,680 --> 00:56:27,440
Yeah I don't know.

00:56:27,440 --> 00:56:33,920
I think it would be very very important to do something in the youth circuit because

00:56:33,920 --> 00:56:41,400
that's where the eating disorders are most often starting.

00:56:41,400 --> 00:56:51,600
It's not starting when you're 25 it's starting when you're younger and yeah that's why I

00:56:51,600 --> 00:57:00,680
think they should start with the BMI rules or also other rules in the youth.

00:57:00,680 --> 00:57:05,840
Did you ever feel like pressured when you were in the youth circuit to eat a certain

00:57:05,840 --> 00:57:06,840
way?

00:57:06,840 --> 00:57:17,320
So as I said in Germany there is kind of a very good support system and that's why I

00:57:17,320 --> 00:57:19,840
didn't really struggle with that.

00:57:19,840 --> 00:57:21,880
And so that started in youth as well?

00:57:21,880 --> 00:57:30,200
Yeah so at least for me I don't know how it's working for the other German athletes but

00:57:30,200 --> 00:57:32,760
I was supported very good.

00:57:32,760 --> 00:57:34,760
Yeah that's good to hear.

00:57:34,760 --> 00:57:40,280
Okay awesome well I think that is all the questions that I had then.

00:57:40,280 --> 00:57:46,280
Is there anything like last minute you wanted to talk about or like words of wisdom you

00:57:46,280 --> 00:57:47,280
want to share?

00:57:47,280 --> 00:57:48,280
I really know.

00:57:48,280 --> 00:57:50,320
Okay yeah no worries.

00:57:50,320 --> 00:57:52,640
I think it was a very good talk.

00:57:52,640 --> 00:57:55,160
Okay great awesome.

00:57:55,160 --> 00:57:57,440
Do you want to let people know where they can find you?

00:57:57,440 --> 00:58:04,960
Yeah so I'm on Instagram on the apple move 050.

00:58:04,960 --> 00:58:12,080
Great okay well thank you so much for joining me today and it was great to talk to you.

00:58:12,080 --> 00:58:14,380
Thank you for inviting me.

00:58:14,380 --> 00:58:17,640
Thank you so much for making it to the end of the podcast.

00:58:17,640 --> 00:58:23,380
Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed otherwise you are a super fake climber.

00:58:23,380 --> 00:58:28,040
If you're listening on a podcasting platform I'd appreciate if you rate it five stars and

00:58:28,040 --> 00:58:33,000
you can continue the discussion on the free competition climbing discord linked in the

00:58:33,000 --> 00:58:34,000
description.

00:58:34,000 --> 00:58:56,640
Thanks again for listening.