56: Mickael Mawem, French Boulderer

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Oh, I'm the world champion? It's okay? I have

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my goal? Wow. It's finished? Wow. And I have

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a goal. I have a goal. It's to be rich. And I

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do around 60 to 100 pull -ups all the world.

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Wow. A lot of people, when I go climbing in the

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gym, they say, why don't you come climb at

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o 'clock? A lot of people, you can climb. A lot

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of people want a picture with you, autograph,

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whatever. This was the best moment. We are a

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climber because we like to share, like that.

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Welcome to another episode of the That's Not

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World Climbing podcast. I'm your host, Jinni,

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and I'm excited to introduce my in -person guest

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for today, Mickael Mawem. Micka is a French boulder,

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and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern

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2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest

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conversation about how growing up poor motivated

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him to make money as a climber, why he stuck

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with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects,

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what his training looks like, which includes

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warming up with a pull -ups and of course what

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happened during the burn world champ finals shout

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out to mad rock for hosting this interview at

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their headquarters and i hope you enjoy this

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episode with Micka. Please pardon this brief intermission,

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but I'm excited to talk about Mad Rock's newest

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and softest shoe yet, the Remora Pro. If you

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like being able to feel the chips you're standing

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on sketchy volumes in competitions, then this

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heel into the shoe no matter how hard you're

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pulling. Feel free to message me if you have

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for 10 % off your entire Mad Rock order. Thank

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you to Mad Rock for helping to sponsor the podcast.

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Now, back to the show. How has LA been so far?

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This is kind of your first time in LA? My second

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time in LA. Second, first real time in LA. Yes,

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first real time, because my first time I don't

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stay in LA, it's just for a TV show. Yeah. Just

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for a TV show, and now I see LA. The people of

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LA. What was the show about? I didn't even, I

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didn't hear about it until today. On Netflix,

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it's Ultimate Beastmaster. Okay. Yeah, it's after,

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it's 2016, we come. And with my brother, for

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us to show TV, it's a big moment, like, US show,

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like, it's a big ninja war. Oh, yeah, yeah. More

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strong, more strong, more hard. Yeah. And then

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after this, you're going to Red Rock. What are

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your plans there? At Red Rock, it's... With Mad

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Rock, we want to take the time for climbing.

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I don't have a plan for climbing this boulder.

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In case that, just climb a lot. I like climbing.

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I like climbing. I like climbing a lot. I don't

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like... You know, I train for a lot of fear,

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only for one goal. Yeah. Just for performance.

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Now when I go outdoor, it's like for chill. Okay.

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For climb, for... Enjoyment. Exactly. And share

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a big moment with some people. And that's the

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priority. Just the pleasure. Because competition

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is not a pleasure. It's not a pleasure. You have

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the pleasure when you have the result. Just before,

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it's not a pleasure. Yeah, that's interesting

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that you said that. We'll definitely get into

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that. But for now, before we get too deep into

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things, how did you and your brother get into

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climbing and competing? I guess, like, what interested

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you about it? Oh, my brother started climbing

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before me. Before me, like, six months, eight

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months before me. How old was he? He started

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around 16. Oh, that's actually really late. Yeah.

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Yeah, yeah. From my brother to 16 and me 11.

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Yeah. 11 because we have six year difference.

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And... Yeah, it starts, it's like just a friend

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of my brother. In my small city in France, we

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have an outdoor wall. It's like just, it's nothing.

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It's just an outdoor wall, artificial outdoor

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wall. And he climbed just for fun with a friend.

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And one friend said, okay, maybe you can go in

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school. In school, we have a small climbing wall

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and maybe you can come and just play with me

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and just go. And he go one time and he say, okay,

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it's good. It's good. It's a good moment. And

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we start like that. And after six, eight, ten

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months, I don't remember exactly the time. Just

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my brother say, Mike, you want to come with me?

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Yeah, for sure. If my brother tell me like, come

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with me, play a little bit of sports. Yeah, I

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go. And directly when I put my ass on this climbing

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gym, it's not a climbing gym. It's like just

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a... For school, you know, you have a place for

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football, handball, whatever, and just a small

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climbing walk. And I come and directly I'm in

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a good environment with good people and respectful

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people. And that's directly I say, OK, wow, what

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a place. It's amazing because I can be me. And

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that's why I want to stay in the climbing team.

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Not because climbing is cool, the movement is

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good or whatever. No, because when I put my feet,

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my body, when I come into the climbing gym, just

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it's like, okay, I'm in a family. I'm in a place.

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I can be me and say, wow, I want to stay here.

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So you don't like the movement of climbing? Youth.

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After some years, I found some parts of climbing

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I like. For example, I like training a lot. And

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if you like training, you like pain. If you like

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pain, you can like climbing. Because climbing

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is pain. Yeah, I know. You need to accept the

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pain all the time. If you climb for the pleasure

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or not, you go climbing, up, you touch a hole,

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like, oh, no, the legs, you sleep, this, that.

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You have all the time, maybe all the week. If

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you climb two, three times in a week, you have

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a small injury. Small, just small. That is climbing.

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For me, I found some parts in climbing I like.

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Just in first. I climb. It's just for the environment.

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And after some years, it's because I don't have

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the choice to come back and change my life. Why

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change my life? And I like for sure climbing.

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I found, yeah, it's a good world. Just for me,

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it's just a step in my life. It's just a step.

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It's not finished. It's just a step. I guess

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one of the audience questions that had come in

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kind of related to the community around climbing.

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How did you feel being one of the few black climbers

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on the circuit and then growing up in that environment?

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Yeah. I'm, you know, about that. I never opened

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my eyes on me, what's happened. It's just, I

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go in competition. I won the world for a lot

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of years. It's just for me. It's just for my

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family. It's just for my brother. And I don't

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put politics or I'm black or whatever in my sport

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because it's only for me. And for sure, I have

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a lot of questions about that. I don't see a

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lot of black people. And not just black people,

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Arab people. Before, at the beginning when I

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started, we didn't see a lot of Asian people

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coming climbing. It's not just about black people,

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just for sure now, if you check the list of competitors,

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you see just two black men. It's twins from Canada.

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And just that. And in high, high level. No one,

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only my brother and me. And I think, you know,

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we talk about that sometimes with my brother

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about why. And we try to understand why we don't

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farm a lot of black people, some communities

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don't have a lot of money. And I have a story.

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My brother goes for five years to work in New

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Caledonia. And he come in a place, it's like,

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it's a city, it's a big problem in New Caledonia

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because you have the white, you have some local

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people, and he fights all the time because white

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people take all the work, money, and the local

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don't have nothing. That's it. It's the life.

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It's that. That's when my brother come in this

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city from... To manage the gym, the gym, it's

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an outdoor gym. Directly, all the local, young

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local, normally have a lot of problems with the

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gym because the gyms are in a place, are in a

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local place. When Basa comes, a black man, to

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manage a big gym like that, all the young, the

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local guys come to Basa and say, hey, you can

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manage that, you. You black people, you are black.

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Yes, yes, I work for that. He said, okay, it

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was good. And now all the young have more respect.

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I have more respect for my brother. And my brother

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said, okay, come climbing. All the young come

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climbing, come climbing. He come climbing. It's,

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you know, the local young in New Caledonia are

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very strong, have a lot of energy directly, so

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a lot of... Good clever, say, oh, you can maybe

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start climbing. And directly, all the young say,

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no, I don't want climbing. I don't want to do.

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My brother just want to know for what. All young

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say, we can have a good life with climbing. My

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brother say, it's possible, just maybe it's very

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hard. And the young say, okay, I don't want time.

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i prefer take a bowl play football and maybe

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maybe i'm i have more chance to have some more

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money and to have a good life yeah and and it's

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for that i think uh we don't found a lot of black

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people uh climb because uh there's not a lot

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of money in it not a lot of money and and you

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need to choose a way you can have a good life

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like okay you don't put off people and like me

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i don't i don't i don't want to use uh the sport

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only for pleasure what what i have what i do

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all the all the day it's for something for a

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goal all the time it's just for that and and

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the second part it's uh the price timing is expensive

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yeah climbing in a gym it's depending country

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it's 50. 60, 100 euro, dollar for memberships.

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More than that here? More. Shoes, more to

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euro, dollar for the good shoes. Armets, short

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calls a month, you need to buy a shirt. It's

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very expensive and you need to be very strong

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if you want to, if you want. and if you're used

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to climbing for your work too. And for me, maybe

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some reasons we don't find some people, like

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black people, African people, because it's really

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expensive. And to have a good level, if you check

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the list in IFSC or World Climbing, if you check

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the list. It's only country where you can find

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a lot of money. Europe, now China, Japan, it's

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okay. And just that. Yeah, there's a lot that

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goes into growing a climbing career. And you

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mentioned growing up without having a lot of

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money. How did you manage the finances of training

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for competition climbing? Especially, I think,

00:13:52.870 --> 00:13:54.929
getting into competition is even more expensive

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because you need to get experience in different

00:13:57.370 --> 00:14:00.009
gyms and different holds and styles. I don't

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know, it's a lot. Yeah, if you're not sure, you

00:14:02.710 --> 00:14:05.309
need to be very strong after that. You need to

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be very strong. My brother and me, we have nothing.

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Nothing. We have nothing. We have only support

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of all the family. We don't want to ask my mother,

00:14:22.820 --> 00:14:25.759
my mother -in -law to give me some money or whatever

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for my sports. It's very hard. And when we take

00:14:29.860 --> 00:14:35.200
the decision to give hold for climbing, to use

00:14:35.200 --> 00:14:40.559
climbing for... our personal goal, we need to

00:14:40.559 --> 00:14:44.960
find a solution to be strong. And we know when

00:14:44.960 --> 00:14:47.779
we start, we start in a small city, in my region,

00:14:47.899 --> 00:14:50.279
a small city. We have nothing, a small wall.

00:14:51.419 --> 00:14:55.879
We can train at this small wall because just

00:14:55.879 --> 00:15:00.220
six meters or seven meters high, only jug, a

00:15:00.220 --> 00:15:05.340
vertical wall. And we reflect about what we need

00:15:05.340 --> 00:15:08.120
to be strong. For now, we need a good level,

00:15:08.259 --> 00:15:11.620
okay? We start training with what we have. We

00:15:11.620 --> 00:15:15.779
have only one hang bob and one pull -up, and

00:15:15.779 --> 00:15:20.200
just that. Yeah. And it's for that. But I knew

00:15:20.200 --> 00:15:23.500
we are very strong with harm because we have

00:15:23.500 --> 00:15:25.360
just that at the beginning, and we pull up, pull

00:15:25.360 --> 00:15:29.720
up, pull up, pull up for the guard. And when,

00:15:29.860 --> 00:15:32.519
yeah, okay, we move directly, we know, okay,

00:15:32.580 --> 00:15:35.720
we need to move. We need to move. We need to

00:15:35.720 --> 00:15:39.480
move from the level, from other gyms, to see

00:15:39.480 --> 00:15:45.740
how we train in climbing, because we don't know.

00:15:46.580 --> 00:15:49.899
We don't have trainers, we don't have experiments,

00:15:50.179 --> 00:15:53.799
we have nothing. We don't know what's the possibility.

00:15:54.720 --> 00:15:59.080
And we move. And me, for example, when I have

00:15:59.080 --> 00:16:05.409
16 years, I move to another city. in another

00:16:05.409 --> 00:16:09.070
city with my brother. And it's Clermont -Ferrand.

00:16:09.190 --> 00:16:10.990
It's the first city we moved. Clermont -Ferrand

00:16:10.990 --> 00:16:13.889
in France, it's the center of France. And why

00:16:13.889 --> 00:16:18.250
we moved here? Because we know one guy of the

00:16:18.250 --> 00:16:23.710
French team trained in this gym. And we said,

00:16:23.730 --> 00:16:28.730
okay, we need to go for a see how this guy trained

00:16:28.730 --> 00:16:33.269
and just for a see. And he trained, oh, he trained

00:16:33.269 --> 00:16:36.679
like that. we repeat the same. We repeat the

00:16:36.679 --> 00:16:40.980
same. And we move in Clermont -Ferrand, and after

00:16:40.980 --> 00:16:45.659
we move in Grenoble, we move in Nancy. And it's

00:16:45.659 --> 00:16:49.279
for the sports, it's for fun money, and with

00:16:49.279 --> 00:16:55.299
the life. It's like all together. And yeah, and

00:16:55.299 --> 00:16:59.740
after, when the level goes up, and we are not

00:16:59.740 --> 00:17:06.869
so close to come in the French team. Now we know,

00:17:07.109 --> 00:17:10.430
we check all the athletes, know you have a lot

00:17:10.430 --> 00:17:13.650
of material, you have easy life, you can train

00:17:13.650 --> 00:17:15.930
in the same place all the day, you don't walk,

00:17:16.069 --> 00:17:22.809
you don't go to school. We know directly, Bas

00:17:22.809 --> 00:17:28.650
and me, it can be, I think, yeah, directly we

00:17:28.650 --> 00:17:32.430
say, maybe it's very hard to have that. We need

00:17:32.430 --> 00:17:35.400
to reflect about, okay. Oh, we can found a little

00:17:35.400 --> 00:17:40.740
bit money or material. Because Basa and me, okay,

00:17:40.839 --> 00:17:43.900
we are just a climber. We don't have an image.

00:17:43.980 --> 00:17:47.680
We don't have good results. We are just a climber,

00:17:47.799 --> 00:17:52.160
a human, want a good life. Okay, we say, okay.

00:17:52.880 --> 00:17:55.099
Oh, for sure, we need to train. We need to have

00:17:55.099 --> 00:17:57.680
a good result. That's it for us. That's it's

00:17:57.680 --> 00:17:59.980
hard because you are just one first place, one

00:17:59.980 --> 00:18:09.079
second place. At the beginning of social media,

00:18:09.339 --> 00:18:14.900
with Facebook, all people have Facebook for friends.

00:18:15.079 --> 00:18:18.259
You try to have more friends and maybe 500 friends.

00:18:18.940 --> 00:18:24.940
And after that, you can build a page on Facebook,

00:18:25.099 --> 00:18:30.380
have some different friends. Maximum 5 ,000 people

00:18:30.380 --> 00:18:35.369
can follow you. and I just totally just for pleasure

00:18:35.369 --> 00:18:40.210
I use Facebook like all the people and Instagram

00:18:40.210 --> 00:18:46.890
is coming and I saw something like hmm maybe

00:18:46.890 --> 00:18:51.990
we can use because in France no no no I think

00:18:51.990 --> 00:18:56.130
just one glamour use some social media for put

00:18:56.130 --> 00:18:58.910
video or photo of the sport just just for pleasure

00:18:58.910 --> 00:19:03.569
and and me I I reflect about how maybe we can

00:19:03.569 --> 00:19:06.109
build something. We can build something on social

00:19:06.109 --> 00:19:12.750
media. I don't know why. Just we can create nice

00:19:12.750 --> 00:19:16.630
movements, nice big jumps. It's the beginning.

00:19:16.730 --> 00:19:18.930
We don't show a lot of videos of some athletes

00:19:18.930 --> 00:19:22.890
jump and play with their arm, no foot or whatever

00:19:22.890 --> 00:19:29.329
like that. And we... I start like, okay, I'll

00:19:29.329 --> 00:19:31.529
go just... All the day, all the today, I create

00:19:31.529 --> 00:19:36.869
a video, I put a video of just that. And directly

00:19:36.869 --> 00:19:41.569
with my brother, say, the social media, we have

00:19:41.569 --> 00:19:46.250
more people follow us. Just we try to stay true.

00:19:46.829 --> 00:19:50.789
It's just for, it's for funny, because I like

00:19:50.789 --> 00:19:56.029
that. Just maybe, maybe, in the future, I can

00:19:56.029 --> 00:20:01.929
use that. I'll start one year, two year. And

00:20:01.929 --> 00:20:07.910
I saw one brand want to give me nothing, just

00:20:07.910 --> 00:20:09.829
one tooth. I don't know. I don't remember what

00:20:09.829 --> 00:20:13.630
is it. Give me maybe a shock bag. Just take a

00:20:13.630 --> 00:20:16.109
shock bag. I want nothing. Just take it because

00:20:16.109 --> 00:20:22.650
you have a good image. Okay. Thank you. And after

00:20:22.650 --> 00:20:25.789
that, she said, oh, maybe we can have some material,

00:20:25.829 --> 00:20:29.369
a little bit. We don't have money. And if we

00:20:29.369 --> 00:20:34.119
have, one or two shoes free, shulks free, some

00:20:34.119 --> 00:20:36.859
material in climbing free. It's okay. It's better

00:20:36.859 --> 00:20:43.299
for us. And we start slowly like that. We found

00:20:43.299 --> 00:20:50.319
some good partners. And this partner, the first

00:20:50.319 --> 00:20:53.960
partner we have, don't follow us because we have

00:20:53.960 --> 00:20:57.140
a good level. Don't follow us because we have

00:20:57.140 --> 00:21:04.289
a big community. Because he, you know, maybe,

00:21:04.630 --> 00:21:08.190
I don't know for why, just he gives us like for

00:21:08.190 --> 00:21:11.089
free because maybe we are just good guy, good

00:21:11.089 --> 00:21:14.910
guy, I don't know. He gives us material, yeah,

00:21:14.950 --> 00:21:17.910
just not a lot, not a lot. And I remember the

00:21:17.910 --> 00:21:22.309
first one start to give us some material is snap

00:21:22.309 --> 00:21:25.009
climbing. And snap climbing walk with my dog.

00:21:26.380 --> 00:21:29.539
Long time ago, it was the same. The cash pad

00:21:29.539 --> 00:21:33.079
are at the same place. We have some story together.

00:21:35.140 --> 00:21:40.420
And it's Patrick from Stapp. Now it's Sarcos

00:21:40.420 --> 00:21:47.539
by Stapp, and it's different. Just Patrick gives

00:21:47.539 --> 00:21:50.279
some material to my brother. My brother has a

00:21:50.279 --> 00:21:56.710
better level to me. He's older. Yeah. He gave

00:21:56.710 --> 00:21:58.769
more material for my brother. My brother gave

00:21:58.769 --> 00:22:03.609
me a little bit more material. And when we start

00:22:03.609 --> 00:22:06.769
like that, just with the shoulder bag, a little

00:22:06.769 --> 00:22:09.509
bit short, two crash pads. I have the same crash

00:22:09.509 --> 00:22:14.289
pad since 20 years. Really? Wow. The same, the

00:22:14.289 --> 00:22:19.470
same. He gave us the first crash pad. And slowly,

00:22:19.670 --> 00:22:25.599
someone gave some material. And now... One time,

00:22:25.599 --> 00:22:29.319
I listened a little bit to all the people, and

00:22:29.319 --> 00:22:33.640
he talked about LeframoM, LeframoM, like a brand,

00:22:33.779 --> 00:22:36.019
like LeframoM, so you know, yeah, not a brand.

00:22:36.380 --> 00:22:41.359
I was just a poser. I just created a social media

00:22:41.359 --> 00:22:44.720
with my poser and me because we have the same

00:22:44.720 --> 00:22:52.019
sports, we have the same goal, and why we...

00:22:52.349 --> 00:22:54.890
We put time, why do I suddenly need to put time

00:22:54.890 --> 00:22:57.730
and me put time separately? No, you put all together,

00:22:57.869 --> 00:23:00.069
it's more easy. It's more easy. And all people

00:23:00.069 --> 00:23:02.369
talk about brand, brand, brand, brand. Okay.

00:23:03.309 --> 00:23:05.950
Just for me, it's just not a brand, it's just

00:23:05.950 --> 00:23:09.329
brother. It's just my brother and brother account.

00:23:09.970 --> 00:23:12.690
And we continue like that. And I post a video,

00:23:12.869 --> 00:23:15.789
video, video, video, video, video, video. Maybe

00:23:15.789 --> 00:23:18.750
I post maybe 3 ,000 videos on Instagram. Yeah,

00:23:18.769 --> 00:23:22.579
it's a lot. Yeah. It's a lot. For my more than

00:23:22.579 --> 00:23:27.559
200 ,000 followers, I have 3 ,000 videos. Yeah.

00:23:27.660 --> 00:23:31.599
Oh, it's a joke. Yeah, it's a joke. I do that.

00:23:32.559 --> 00:23:36.220
I don't create all the videos just for something.

00:23:37.339 --> 00:23:42.480
I create for show my sports, for show what I

00:23:42.480 --> 00:23:46.200
do. And I train a lot. And if I have some material,

00:23:46.319 --> 00:23:48.539
it's perfect. I don't need to put money for that.

00:23:49.859 --> 00:23:54.500
And then slowly, yeah, I go like that. And just

00:23:54.500 --> 00:24:01.119
that's, it's one time you have a limit because

00:24:01.119 --> 00:24:02.940
you can have a good image, you can have material,

00:24:02.980 --> 00:24:05.359
just now if you want a good level, you need money.

00:24:05.700 --> 00:24:09.299
Yeah. You need money because you need to pay

00:24:09.299 --> 00:24:12.200
your food, you need to pay your travel. Yeah,

00:24:12.200 --> 00:24:14.180
it's a lot. It's very expensive. We have the

00:24:14.180 --> 00:24:17.440
chance in France, when you are in French team,

00:24:18.039 --> 00:24:21.319
The foundation pays all. The travel, food, when

00:24:21.319 --> 00:24:23.680
you travel for the camp, that's it. It's very

00:24:23.680 --> 00:24:26.640
easy. But getting there is the hard part, yeah.

00:24:26.759 --> 00:24:31.079
Yeah, yeah. And yeah, we need to form that. And

00:24:31.079 --> 00:24:34.359
now we know it's like, for our money, we need

00:24:34.359 --> 00:24:40.420
results. And it's a mix of results and image.

00:24:40.680 --> 00:24:45.640
And if you have both, you can have some money

00:24:45.640 --> 00:24:49.470
for the... Present life, okay. Like present,

00:24:49.569 --> 00:24:58.789
you can live just in the present. You can't live

00:24:58.789 --> 00:25:00.990
like, okay, I have money for the present and

00:25:00.990 --> 00:25:05.309
the future. Okay, yeah. It's only enough for

00:25:05.309 --> 00:25:08.430
the present. Exactly. Just for us, we don't want

00:25:08.430 --> 00:25:12.730
that. Beside me, we don't want that because climbing

00:25:12.730 --> 00:25:17.750
is just a step for us. We use climbing for something.

00:25:18.650 --> 00:25:24.089
And we put all the motivation, all the power,

00:25:24.329 --> 00:25:26.509
all the focus on climbing for something. It's

00:25:26.509 --> 00:25:28.769
not just because climbing is cool, because it's

00:25:28.769 --> 00:25:31.990
a sport, because we like that. No, it's because

00:25:31.990 --> 00:25:38.549
we need something with that. And with my brother,

00:25:38.630 --> 00:25:45.130
we say, okay, for our goal, what do we need?

00:25:45.680 --> 00:25:48.460
Okay, maybe after the career, we need a climbing

00:25:48.460 --> 00:25:51.200
gym. We need to work for our climbing gym. After

00:25:51.200 --> 00:25:53.319
that climbing, maybe we open a climbing gym.

00:25:53.940 --> 00:25:56.259
We need to open a climbing gym. And if we have

00:25:56.259 --> 00:26:00.259
a business, maybe we can build the future life.

00:26:01.759 --> 00:26:07.460
Okay, and we have a certain money for that? No.

00:26:08.279 --> 00:26:12.119
Okay, we need to work. And all the career of

00:26:12.119 --> 00:26:15.630
my brother and me, We train and work all the

00:26:15.630 --> 00:26:20.529
time. Yeah. My brother works for some gym. Me,

00:26:20.609 --> 00:26:25.069
I work as a teacher and a setter. I create all

00:26:25.069 --> 00:26:30.309
the videos on social media. Oh, yeah? I develop

00:26:30.309 --> 00:26:36.849
les frappes à rem. And, yeah, just we work all

00:26:36.849 --> 00:26:40.849
the career. For example, story in Olympics, all

00:26:40.849 --> 00:26:44.359
the coaching Olympics are. I'm not okay with

00:26:44.359 --> 00:26:48.880
us because we work all the day. We go three weeks

00:26:48.880 --> 00:26:52.240
before Olympics in Tokyo. We are in a small place

00:26:52.240 --> 00:26:57.759
in Tokyo. It's COVID. We stay in the same place.

00:26:58.299 --> 00:27:01.619
We go out, hotel, go out for training, just like

00:27:01.619 --> 00:27:04.640
that. We go out for training with our brother.

00:27:05.099 --> 00:27:07.660
We come back at the hotel. We work all the day,

00:27:07.680 --> 00:27:10.940
all the night. Computer, two pieces, na -na -na,

00:27:10.940 --> 00:27:13.670
na -na -na. And all the coaches say, no, no,

00:27:13.690 --> 00:27:16.869
don't take a break. Put your brain here. You

00:27:16.869 --> 00:27:21.170
have a big camp. No, no, because the camp, it's

00:27:21.170 --> 00:27:25.109
a, yes, it's a final stage. Just for now, we

00:27:25.109 --> 00:27:30.309
have a, we have a big life. We need to build

00:27:30.309 --> 00:27:32.690
a big life after that. And we need to work, work

00:27:32.690 --> 00:27:35.630
all the day. And is that all the courage? Work,

00:27:35.670 --> 00:27:39.910
work, work, work. And, and yeah, and I think.

00:27:41.789 --> 00:27:51.490
It's hard to have money from climbing. Just like

00:27:51.490 --> 00:27:57.190
all the work in this world, if you want money,

00:27:57.269 --> 00:28:02.130
it's hard. Okay, if you want the money for heat,

00:28:02.369 --> 00:28:06.009
sleep, and take one, two week, three week holiday

00:28:06.009 --> 00:28:08.970
in a year, okay. A lot of people can do that.

00:28:09.170 --> 00:28:12.759
Yeah. If you want more, You need to walk. Do

00:28:12.759 --> 00:28:15.779
you regret choosing climbing since you aren't

00:28:15.779 --> 00:28:20.200
able to make a lot of money from it? Not regret

00:28:20.200 --> 00:28:26.140
because I breathe a crazy life. It's a lot of

00:28:26.140 --> 00:28:31.079
work to do what I have now and what I can have

00:28:31.079 --> 00:28:38.319
for the future. I don't have regrets. Just if

00:28:38.319 --> 00:28:44.579
the world come back 20 years or 25 years ago,

00:28:44.700 --> 00:28:49.599
I choose other way. Yeah. Other way for sure.

00:28:49.779 --> 00:28:53.839
Yeah. Maybe I continue school. I don't need to

00:28:53.839 --> 00:29:02.660
wait my 34 years for whatever, for my first step

00:29:02.660 --> 00:29:09.660
in my life or build my goal. And yeah, I choose

00:29:09.660 --> 00:29:13.259
other way. For example, if I need to choose a

00:29:13.259 --> 00:29:16.220
sport, because school, I'm young. And I choose,

00:29:16.299 --> 00:29:20.059
I say, for me, I can be good in school. And I

00:29:20.059 --> 00:29:23.259
say, okay, it's not good. And maybe if I can

00:29:23.259 --> 00:29:27.940
come back, I choose the same decision. Just maybe

00:29:27.940 --> 00:29:33.700
the sports. If I know, I play football. Because

00:29:33.700 --> 00:29:36.579
football, maybe you don't need to be professional

00:29:36.579 --> 00:29:42.299
for. have money. Yeah, yeah. You don't need to

00:29:42.299 --> 00:29:46.579
be professional. You are just a good team. You

00:29:46.579 --> 00:29:49.200
have some results. You can have 2 ,000 euros

00:29:49.200 --> 00:29:53.539
per month just for training two days in a week.

00:29:53.819 --> 00:29:56.960
You think so? In France. Really? Two, three days

00:29:56.960 --> 00:29:59.440
in a week. Football, French football is like

00:29:59.440 --> 00:30:05.319
here. And two days in a week, one... One camp

00:30:05.319 --> 00:30:08.619
all the Saturday, one match all the Saturday,

00:30:08.859 --> 00:30:11.920
two thousands, if you have a good level. Just

00:30:11.920 --> 00:30:16.180
a small kick, small kick. Just for me, I choose

00:30:16.180 --> 00:30:19.599
all the way. Like maybe tennis. Yeah. Because

00:30:19.599 --> 00:30:24.519
I know I can be strong in all sports. I can give

00:30:24.519 --> 00:30:28.720
what I give for my sports, for my goal, I give

00:30:28.720 --> 00:30:35.099
all my life. I give all my time. I put my family

00:30:35.099 --> 00:30:39.880
back, at left, wife, and I go here alone. I put

00:30:39.880 --> 00:30:43.039
my friend here, go alone. Just like give all

00:30:43.039 --> 00:30:49.140
for the goal. And I know if I give that for other

00:30:49.140 --> 00:30:53.059
sports, for school, it's more easy. It's going

00:30:53.059 --> 00:30:54.980
to be more easy. Did you try any of these other

00:30:54.980 --> 00:30:58.420
sports? Before climbing. Yeah. Before climbing.

00:30:59.440 --> 00:31:04.380
Before climbing and... There's some difference

00:31:04.380 --> 00:31:08.319
for just all the time. We are not, we don't have

00:31:08.319 --> 00:31:11.579
a good welcome with my brother. You come in a

00:31:11.579 --> 00:31:17.420
sport like athletics or we try athletics, theoretically

00:31:17.420 --> 00:31:22.619
we want to, I want to jump on, I don't know that

00:31:22.619 --> 00:31:25.180
in English, the sport when you run and you jump.

00:31:25.480 --> 00:31:28.160
Oh, okay. The long jump? Yeah, long jump. Yeah,

00:31:28.220 --> 00:31:31.900
just that. I won't do that. And I come for a

00:31:31.900 --> 00:31:34.039
try for the first time. Say, I won't do that.

00:31:34.579 --> 00:31:38.200
Say, okay, go run five kilometers. I don't want

00:31:38.200 --> 00:31:42.940
to run. Say, no, you need to go. Okay. And after,

00:31:43.140 --> 00:31:47.640
I won't jump. No, you need to do whole. Because

00:31:47.640 --> 00:31:51.059
you are young. Say, okay, I don't want that.

00:31:51.599 --> 00:31:56.779
And after I tried gymnastic for two years, the

00:31:56.779 --> 00:32:02.349
same. The same, the same. I'm not... Yeah, I'm

00:32:02.349 --> 00:32:06.230
not really... I can do what I want. I say, okay,

00:32:06.369 --> 00:32:09.829
stop. And, you know, it's a sport like that.

00:32:10.950 --> 00:32:14.349
You're not... It's a sport you... Gymnastics,

00:32:14.450 --> 00:32:18.130
you're alone. Betis, you're alone. Yeah, when

00:32:18.130 --> 00:32:21.589
you train, you're with a group. Just really,

00:32:21.690 --> 00:32:25.869
you're alone all the time. And team... Sport

00:32:25.869 --> 00:32:28.190
with team, like football, handball, or whatever

00:32:28.190 --> 00:32:31.849
like that, Okay, so Tim just woke up in a tin

00:32:31.849 --> 00:32:35.869
in my city. It's very hard. And that's because

00:32:35.869 --> 00:32:40.009
I come from a small region in France. My first

00:32:40.009 --> 00:32:42.210
five years in this region when I was a child,

00:32:42.329 --> 00:32:47.170
we are only in this city, only one black family.

00:32:47.950 --> 00:32:53.630
It's five families. And the mentality, it's a

00:32:53.630 --> 00:32:56.049
little bit hard with the whole people. All people,

00:32:56.269 --> 00:33:00.319
you know, in my city. A lot of years ago, it's

00:33:00.319 --> 00:33:03.680
a German city. It's a German city. You have some

00:33:03.680 --> 00:33:06.660
not good mentality. A lot of people don't have

00:33:06.660 --> 00:33:13.180
culture. Germany is not that now. It's finished

00:33:13.180 --> 00:33:18.799
a long time ago. Just the mentality of old people

00:33:18.799 --> 00:33:22.380
is not about racism. It's about... You don't

00:33:22.380 --> 00:33:26.039
have culture. Only that. You don't... a lot of

00:33:26.039 --> 00:33:28.400
people, it's like, okay, black men are people,

00:33:28.680 --> 00:33:33.779
he's not a good person, he's not a good person,

00:33:33.859 --> 00:33:36.140
just you don't know because you don't live with

00:33:36.140 --> 00:33:40.299
people like that. And, you know, all my life,

00:33:40.319 --> 00:33:42.640
I don't have, I don't find a good place and for

00:33:42.640 --> 00:33:46.640
that, when I put, when I go try climbing, I say,

00:33:46.700 --> 00:33:49.440
wow, wow. The community was good. Yeah, it's

00:33:49.440 --> 00:33:52.779
a community and all is welcome. It's like, my

00:33:52.779 --> 00:33:56.789
daughter can come. Sure, I had it last night.

00:33:57.869 --> 00:34:03.109
You can come, you can stay you, and there's that.

00:34:03.589 --> 00:34:07.190
For that, I try different sports, and when I

00:34:07.190 --> 00:34:09.869
test climbing, it's not about climbing, it's

00:34:09.869 --> 00:34:15.849
just about all. No one looked at me, just all

00:34:15.849 --> 00:34:17.710
called me, like, okay, come play football with

00:34:17.710 --> 00:34:19.869
me, because my first four years in climbing,

00:34:22.199 --> 00:34:25.360
If I go climbing for three hours, I climb only

00:34:25.360 --> 00:34:29.219
one hour. One hour is football. One hour is climbing.

00:34:29.340 --> 00:34:32.980
One hour is football. It's like that. I'm glad

00:34:32.980 --> 00:34:36.820
you found a good community in it. Yeah. So let's

00:34:36.820 --> 00:34:39.599
get a little bit into your time competing on

00:34:39.599 --> 00:34:42.920
the World Cup circuit with IFSC slash world climbing

00:34:42.920 --> 00:34:46.460
now. The first one, I'll kick it off with an

00:34:46.460 --> 00:34:48.480
audience question. They want to know, will you

00:34:48.480 --> 00:34:52.050
ever compete again on the IFSC circuit? compete

00:34:52.050 --> 00:34:56.329
again. No, no, no. For my brother, it's finish.

00:34:56.710 --> 00:35:00.929
I have a goal in my life and climbing is a step.

00:35:01.909 --> 00:35:04.730
My first step is to be the best in climbing one

00:35:04.730 --> 00:35:07.949
time in my life for my brother too. And directly

00:35:07.949 --> 00:35:11.489
when I am the best, when I win the world championships,

00:35:11.789 --> 00:35:17.480
say, I have my first step. For sure, sometimes

00:35:17.480 --> 00:35:20.039
you wait. It's like, okay, you have a good level.

00:35:20.139 --> 00:35:24.239
You can continue. I have that in my head. And

00:35:24.239 --> 00:35:28.400
the last question is for what? I don't have a

00:35:28.400 --> 00:35:31.280
response. I don't have a response for what? For

00:35:31.280 --> 00:35:34.980
pleasure? No. It's not a pleasure to go to the

00:35:34.980 --> 00:35:38.860
comp. Yeah, stressful. So stressed. And if you

00:35:38.860 --> 00:35:42.300
win, maybe you have a pleasure. If your level

00:35:42.300 --> 00:35:45.099
is like 100 % at this comp, okay, maybe it's

00:35:45.099 --> 00:35:48.099
a pleasure. If you have a mistake, it's not a

00:35:48.099 --> 00:35:51.280
pleasure, and you have a lot of mistakes. If

00:35:51.280 --> 00:35:54.420
your level is not at 100%, it's very hard to

00:35:54.420 --> 00:35:57.260
be at 100%. Maybe one time in your life, you

00:35:57.260 --> 00:36:02.739
can maybe hide 99%, something like that. Or maybe

00:36:02.739 --> 00:36:05.960
120 % sometimes, one time in your life. It's

00:36:05.960 --> 00:36:11.619
like, I died. And for me, yes. My first step,

00:36:11.699 --> 00:36:15.300
it's okay. I won that. Now I can go in my second

00:36:15.300 --> 00:36:18.409
step. And for my brother too, it's finished because

00:36:18.409 --> 00:36:21.489
maybe my brother, after Olympics in Tokyo, he

00:36:21.489 --> 00:36:25.889
can stop. Because he's been two times World Cup

00:36:25.889 --> 00:36:30.250
champion in speed. He has a lot of good results.

00:36:30.730 --> 00:36:33.349
For him, it's okay. I mean, the Olympics is a

00:36:33.349 --> 00:36:36.750
great goal. Exactly. And after that, why continue?

00:36:37.070 --> 00:36:41.309
Because I don't have my goal. And after World

00:36:41.309 --> 00:36:44.949
Championships, why I continue? Because Basa continue.

00:36:45.480 --> 00:36:49.920
For 24, I need to continue with it. That's for

00:36:49.920 --> 00:36:56.579
sure. After 24, stop. Did you feel relieved that

00:36:56.579 --> 00:36:58.539
you didn't have to compete anymore? Was it like,

00:36:58.579 --> 00:37:02.900
oh, finally I can stop? Or was there like bittersweet

00:37:02.900 --> 00:37:06.920
feelings about stopping? Nah, you know, I remember

00:37:06.920 --> 00:37:11.280
after I finished my last bullet and final in

00:37:11.280 --> 00:37:14.539
World Championships. I go at the pace with all

00:37:14.539 --> 00:37:18.280
the athletes. You know, your chair, you can sit,

00:37:18.340 --> 00:37:20.440
if you are the first player, you sit on the middle.

00:37:20.840 --> 00:37:25.579
I go on the ground like that. And just it's like,

00:37:25.719 --> 00:37:30.719
I'm free. I'm free. Yeah. Like that, it's like,

00:37:30.940 --> 00:37:35.159
I can put this part of my life just here and

00:37:35.159 --> 00:37:41.199
I'm free for that. Yeah. And I, after that, wow,

00:37:41.380 --> 00:37:45.920
it's, It's a big moment. I want to give this

00:37:45.920 --> 00:37:48.739
moment for, I want to explain this moment for

00:37:48.739 --> 00:37:52.460
a lot of people about, okay, found your goal.

00:37:53.139 --> 00:37:57.639
Found that and your goal is here on your heart.

00:37:58.139 --> 00:38:03.360
And found that and follow this way, go, go, go.

00:38:03.659 --> 00:38:07.820
And if you have your goal, this association you

00:38:07.820 --> 00:38:10.960
have, it's like you're just alive, you know.

00:38:12.639 --> 00:38:17.420
It's just the life starts. Oh. Yeah. When you

00:38:17.420 --> 00:38:21.000
are born, you don't know. You are too small.

00:38:21.739 --> 00:38:25.099
You don't remember that. For me, it's like, this

00:38:25.099 --> 00:38:28.599
moment, it's like, okay, I'm born now. Right.

00:38:28.860 --> 00:38:34.559
I'm born. And I'm born with, like, I can build

00:38:34.559 --> 00:38:38.039
a normal life. And also, you've mentioned, like,

00:38:38.059 --> 00:38:41.519
this goal. So the goal was the world championships?

00:38:41.780 --> 00:38:45.239
And then after the goal, it's only a step? Just

00:38:45.239 --> 00:38:50.380
a step. We have a lot of steps in life. And I

00:38:50.380 --> 00:38:54.139
have a goal. I have a goal. It's to be rich.

00:38:54.619 --> 00:38:57.059
Please excuse this brief intermission, but if

00:38:57.059 --> 00:38:59.440
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00:39:07.619 --> 00:39:10.039
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helps a great deal as well. Back to the show.

00:39:35.199 --> 00:39:39.719
To be rich, when I'm 16 years old, when I decided

00:39:39.719 --> 00:39:43.860
to give all in climbing, I chose climbing. I

00:39:43.860 --> 00:39:46.480
chose climbing because I just like that. I have

00:39:46.480 --> 00:39:48.719
just school and climbing, and I chose climbing.

00:39:49.000 --> 00:39:51.579
I want to be rich. I want to have one million

00:39:51.579 --> 00:39:59.940
on my account. I want that. Because I saw the

00:39:59.940 --> 00:40:03.139
life of my mother. My mother had a hard life

00:40:03.139 --> 00:40:08.059
for all the children. And I saw my mother fight

00:40:08.059 --> 00:40:13.699
with my real father. That's not a good guy. All

00:40:13.699 --> 00:40:20.119
the life for my brother, my sister. We are six

00:40:20.119 --> 00:40:25.570
children in my family. Fight all the year for

00:40:25.570 --> 00:40:29.949
that, for the children. She has nothing. She

00:40:29.949 --> 00:40:35.909
comes from a hard family in Guyana, south in

00:40:35.909 --> 00:40:40.449
America. She moved to Frankiana, and after she

00:40:40.449 --> 00:40:43.309
moved to France, and after she moved to, yeah,

00:40:43.329 --> 00:40:47.630
she stayed in France. Just my real father, our

00:40:47.630 --> 00:40:51.030
legionnaire, military. My legionnaire, it's a

00:40:51.030 --> 00:40:54.190
part of my career. It's just crazy people. Just

00:40:54.190 --> 00:40:57.909
crazy people. No rules. It's legionnaire. It's

00:40:57.909 --> 00:41:02.610
like crazy. And it's for that my mother moved

00:41:02.610 --> 00:41:05.329
to France. We are now Nîmes in France, South

00:41:05.329 --> 00:41:08.650
Street, France. And my great -grandfather, the

00:41:08.650 --> 00:41:15.409
nationality, it's Cameroon. And yeah, my father

00:41:15.409 --> 00:41:19.070
take all the children in Cameroon, burn the passport.

00:41:21.929 --> 00:41:24.949
just for put problem for my mother. And because

00:41:24.949 --> 00:41:28.130
my mother have nothing. She work only for wash,

00:41:28.190 --> 00:41:31.510
some industry, the ground, just that. She have

00:41:31.510 --> 00:41:36.369
nothing. She fight lot of year for take the children,

00:41:36.849 --> 00:41:40.590
forgive for all the children, a good life, like

00:41:40.590 --> 00:41:45.969
just eat, house, just that. And when I am children,

00:41:46.050 --> 00:41:48.190
because now it's like I have three, four, five,

00:41:48.230 --> 00:41:52.869
six year, seven year. It's not for me. I don't

00:41:52.869 --> 00:41:56.690
see that. It's, you know, you are children. You

00:41:56.690 --> 00:42:00.349
don't see there's a pain and just that. Just

00:42:00.349 --> 00:42:05.710
at eight, nine, ten, I saw my mother all the

00:42:05.710 --> 00:42:10.710
time tired, all the time nervous. I don't understand

00:42:10.710 --> 00:42:15.969
for why. I saw my mother wake up very early to

00:42:15.969 --> 00:42:20.659
go work, maybe for church. to go walk two two

00:42:20.659 --> 00:42:24.280
hour just get in the sea watch something i don't

00:42:24.280 --> 00:42:28.760
know up she come back at house she prepares the

00:42:28.760 --> 00:42:33.460
breakfast before school uh all clothes wake up

00:42:33.460 --> 00:42:35.980
up you go to school she go walk it's that's all

00:42:35.980 --> 00:42:41.000
the day no holidays no pleasure of nothing she

00:42:41.000 --> 00:42:46.780
should break his life uh for the children and

00:42:49.199 --> 00:42:56.239
All my, when I was a teen, when I saw that, I

00:42:56.239 --> 00:42:59.639
go to my bed all the night to pray, I think in

00:42:59.639 --> 00:43:04.639
English. All the night I go like, okay, I hope

00:43:04.639 --> 00:43:07.880
God, please, I hope you can help my mother to

00:43:07.880 --> 00:43:12.940
have more money, to have more time for her. I

00:43:12.940 --> 00:43:16.599
don't want to see my brother cry. Just that,

00:43:16.659 --> 00:43:18.039
all the night, all the night, all the night.

00:43:20.059 --> 00:43:23.019
Give a good life for my mother. We need nothing.

00:43:23.139 --> 00:43:26.659
We have a hole. Just that, just that. And after

00:43:26.659 --> 00:43:30.320
seven years, all the night is that. When I have

00:43:30.320 --> 00:43:38.420
14, 13, 14, I stop. I stop all to wait for God

00:43:38.420 --> 00:43:41.139
to come to help my mother. Just I stop that and

00:43:41.139 --> 00:43:45.920
I say, okay. He can help my mother. I need to

00:43:45.920 --> 00:43:48.559
find a solution. And when I'm 31, it's like,

00:43:48.679 --> 00:43:52.099
it's very easy. It's just my mother don't have

00:43:52.099 --> 00:43:55.699
money. It's how she work a lot. She move all

00:43:55.699 --> 00:43:59.500
the time. With more money, maybe the life is

00:43:59.500 --> 00:44:02.320
more easy. A lot of people can underfund that

00:44:02.320 --> 00:44:08.360
because they don't have maybe a lot of problems.

00:44:08.559 --> 00:44:11.619
A lot of problems or not, in some community,

00:44:11.739 --> 00:44:15.369
money is important. Oh, for sure, yeah. And it's

00:44:15.369 --> 00:44:19.750
very important. And yeah, just that. And after,

00:44:19.949 --> 00:44:24.309
now it's like for that, I decided to try to be

00:44:24.309 --> 00:44:28.510
rich, forgive very fast, maximum of money for

00:44:28.510 --> 00:44:33.809
my mother, build a house, buy a car, and not

00:44:33.809 --> 00:44:35.969
just for my mother, after for my sister, for

00:44:35.969 --> 00:44:38.030
the children of my sister, for all my family.

00:44:38.849 --> 00:44:41.449
For first, my mother, just my mother, need nothing.

00:44:41.570 --> 00:44:44.630
I need nothing for the... When I won't give money

00:44:44.630 --> 00:44:50.949
to my mother, she said, no, she won't. Now, she

00:44:50.949 --> 00:44:54.610
is only proud of us. And that is very sufficient.

00:44:55.010 --> 00:44:57.969
I think the money for my mother is like that,

00:44:58.010 --> 00:45:02.550
just to see, okay, all my children are in a safe

00:45:02.550 --> 00:45:04.809
place. Yeah, to see that you have a good life.

00:45:05.050 --> 00:45:10.010
Yeah. And yeah, that's why I want to be rich,

00:45:10.190 --> 00:45:13.820
to give the opportunity to all my family. Build

00:45:13.820 --> 00:45:20.260
a good life. A life, another life. Yeah. Now

00:45:20.260 --> 00:45:23.280
I see why it was hard for climbing to do that

00:45:23.280 --> 00:45:25.360
for you. But you're making it work. You're making

00:45:25.360 --> 00:45:30.599
it work. Yeah. Yeah. So back to, I guess, the

00:45:30.599 --> 00:45:34.659
step to your goal of winning world champs. Did

00:45:34.659 --> 00:45:36.840
you feel like the boulders suited you best there?

00:45:36.920 --> 00:45:40.300
Or was it one of those 100 % days for you? Or

00:45:40.300 --> 00:45:44.380
what do you think allowed you to get the gold

00:45:44.380 --> 00:45:50.019
there? The World Championships, you know, I worked

00:45:50.019 --> 00:45:53.780
a lot. I trained a lot for a long year. I failed

00:45:53.780 --> 00:45:59.019
a lot. I continued all the year to try to have

00:45:59.019 --> 00:46:08.710
my first day, my first goal. In 23, after around

00:46:08.710 --> 00:46:12.269
10 years in French team. Wow, yeah. Yeah, after

00:46:12.269 --> 00:46:16.510
10 years in French team, if you check my result

00:46:16.510 --> 00:46:19.909
in IFSC on the website, you check my result,

00:46:19.969 --> 00:46:24.050
it's so bad. I have just one year, one better

00:46:24.050 --> 00:46:26.550
result for staying in French team and continue,

00:46:26.670 --> 00:46:29.789
continue, continue, continue. All the time I

00:46:29.789 --> 00:46:32.849
fight for that. Before the World Championships,

00:46:33.130 --> 00:46:41.599
for me, I can't ask my goals. I can't. It's too

00:46:41.599 --> 00:46:49.659
late. I'm tired. It's okay for my second step

00:46:49.659 --> 00:46:54.659
because I work hard. I have a good image. I take

00:46:54.659 --> 00:46:59.719
a lot of experience. I know what I can do. Okay,

00:46:59.760 --> 00:47:03.079
for the next step, it's okay. For the next step

00:47:03.079 --> 00:47:07.340
of my life, it's okay. Just this goal I don't

00:47:07.340 --> 00:47:11.400
have. Just for me, it's maybe the last World

00:47:11.400 --> 00:47:17.380
Championship. Maybe the last. Two months before

00:47:17.380 --> 00:47:21.659
the World Championship, I have an interview with

00:47:21.659 --> 00:47:28.199
a sponsor and just I talk with one athlete, Marie

00:47:28.199 --> 00:47:31.699
Patouille. It's a French athlete, para -athlete

00:47:31.699 --> 00:47:36.230
in cycling, speed cycling. I don't know. I have

00:47:36.230 --> 00:47:40.170
a talk with her. It's a good talk because I talk

00:47:40.170 --> 00:47:44.909
with her about difficulty and about goal. She

00:47:44.909 --> 00:47:49.670
remembers me, the goal, what is the goal. And

00:47:49.670 --> 00:47:51.449
we talk about the goal, the goal, the goal, the

00:47:51.449 --> 00:47:55.130
goal. And for now, I say just, okay, maybe I

00:47:55.130 --> 00:48:01.670
don't have the title and I'm not the best climber

00:48:01.670 --> 00:48:10.280
in the world. I win a lot of experiments for

00:48:10.280 --> 00:48:15.840
my life. That's maybe the last step. If it's

00:48:15.840 --> 00:48:18.139
not, I go like, okay, I don't know what's going

00:48:18.139 --> 00:48:20.420
to happen. I don't know what's going to happen

00:48:20.420 --> 00:48:25.260
at the World Championship. And I go like, I go

00:48:25.260 --> 00:48:29.320
just, I train, I have a good heat, I try to sleep

00:48:29.320 --> 00:48:33.260
good. And I go without, I don't want to raise

00:48:33.260 --> 00:48:37.320
a client, just I go for going to World Championship

00:48:37.320 --> 00:48:42.400
and only that. We have six, seven hours before

00:48:42.400 --> 00:48:45.739
the final and maybe two, four hours before I

00:48:45.739 --> 00:48:49.599
go to isolation. Normally, it comes like that.

00:48:49.880 --> 00:48:53.420
I go to the hotel, I take a shower. I try to

00:48:53.420 --> 00:48:57.579
take a nap, to make a nap. Just for me, it's

00:48:57.579 --> 00:49:03.940
very hard. I try. And after I hit and get hold,

00:49:04.179 --> 00:49:07.760
and I go back and run. And I go to the hotel,

00:49:07.840 --> 00:49:13.760
I take a shower, try to make a nap. One minute,

00:49:13.880 --> 00:49:17.440
two, five. Okay, very clear stuff. My brain is

00:49:17.440 --> 00:49:20.579
like... I don't understand what's happening in

00:49:20.579 --> 00:49:23.260
my head. Like, just, I can't, I can't. And the

00:49:23.260 --> 00:49:25.440
first time in my life, normally, I'm very strict.

00:49:25.800 --> 00:49:28.539
I have a routine, and I follow my routine all

00:49:28.539 --> 00:49:32.389
the time. I'm very, very strict. And now I say,

00:49:32.429 --> 00:49:36.309
okay, I take all my bag, my stuff, I go to the

00:49:36.309 --> 00:49:39.329
place, the exhibition place, I walk up a street

00:49:39.329 --> 00:49:43.349
with some brand, it's a chilly place, I go, talk

00:49:43.349 --> 00:49:46.030
with some brand, sell some material, I walk,

00:49:46.349 --> 00:49:50.130
just I stay here. Like, okay, for two hours,

00:49:50.289 --> 00:49:55.050
I walk outside. That's time to go to the isolation,

00:49:55.230 --> 00:49:59.730
I go to the isolation. I am in isolation at the

00:49:59.730 --> 00:50:04.340
moment, normally, Start for warm -up. I go, I

00:50:04.340 --> 00:50:07.400
put my shoes, I start to warm -up. I'm tired,

00:50:07.679 --> 00:50:11.119
I won't sleep. I won't sleep, I'm tired, it's

00:50:11.119 --> 00:50:14.539
like, wow. I try five minutes, ten minutes to

00:50:14.539 --> 00:50:18.340
warm -up, I stop. Say, okay, I can't warm -up.

00:50:19.000 --> 00:50:22.679
I can't, I can't, I'm so tired. And if I warm

00:50:22.679 --> 00:50:24.699
-up, I don't know what's going to happen, just

00:50:24.699 --> 00:50:27.079
I'm so tired, I can't warm -up. Then I stop,

00:50:27.280 --> 00:50:30.119
I take off my shoes, I put on my bag, I wait.

00:50:31.309 --> 00:50:35.730
I wait. But now it's the beginning and we go

00:50:35.730 --> 00:50:38.750
to read the boulder, to read all the boulder

00:50:38.750 --> 00:50:43.829
for the final. We are ready to the final. I will

00:50:43.829 --> 00:50:47.929
read all the boulder. I understand only the first

00:50:47.929 --> 00:50:51.590
boulder. Yeah. Only the first. Only the first.

00:50:51.969 --> 00:50:56.150
I come back to isolation, the coach of the friendship

00:50:56.150 --> 00:50:59.599
and Nico Januel, my... I started when I started,

00:50:59.760 --> 00:51:02.039
he coached me the first three years in the French

00:51:02.039 --> 00:51:05.900
team. They are here, because now, it's been so

00:51:05.900 --> 00:51:10.980
many years, I coach alone with my brother. I

00:51:10.980 --> 00:51:14.840
talked with him, he said, you understand? What

00:51:14.840 --> 00:51:19.780
about the boy? I said, I understand nothing.

00:51:20.420 --> 00:51:24.780
No idea. Wow. He said, and all the attacks, it's

00:51:24.780 --> 00:51:27.500
like a little bit that. The first is okay. The

00:51:27.500 --> 00:51:30.719
second, the slab, it's just slippery road, like

00:51:30.719 --> 00:51:34.219
360 slab, like bam, bam, bam, bam. Okay, the

00:51:34.219 --> 00:51:39.519
third boulder, it's like the jump, like up, like

00:51:39.519 --> 00:51:43.860
that. Oh, yeah. I saw the video of Meiji, and

00:51:43.860 --> 00:51:47.500
maybe it's like that. Yes, I never try a movement

00:51:47.500 --> 00:51:50.539
like that. I don't understand. And the last,

00:51:50.599 --> 00:51:53.500
it's a plastic hole. Oh, it's new. Yeah. Okay.

00:51:55.650 --> 00:51:59.969
And now just Nico tell me like, okay, it's good

00:51:59.969 --> 00:52:03.909
for you. Why it's good for me? I understand nothing.

00:52:04.090 --> 00:52:06.250
It's not good for me. I understand nothing. I

00:52:06.250 --> 00:52:08.289
say, oh, good for you. It's good for you. You

00:52:08.289 --> 00:52:12.690
have the difference with all the people, the

00:52:12.690 --> 00:52:17.030
young people. You have the experience. Say, no,

00:52:17.150 --> 00:52:19.829
for me, it's like experience, experience. Yes,

00:52:19.829 --> 00:52:24.860
I understand nothing. It's okay. Okay. And now

00:52:24.860 --> 00:52:28.500
it's just, it's not the beginning of the final

00:52:28.500 --> 00:52:31.260
because for me, okay, I have a small break in

00:52:31.260 --> 00:52:34.800
isolation, just my brain, stay in the camp. Like

00:52:34.800 --> 00:52:36.980
when I saw the first bullet to the semi -final

00:52:36.980 --> 00:52:40.300
and the last bullet to the final, my head is

00:52:40.300 --> 00:52:44.280
like the same cock, the same circuit, as we say.

00:52:44.980 --> 00:52:48.260
And just I am the focus on the first bullet.

00:52:48.519 --> 00:52:50.840
You need to do it because the first bullet is

00:52:50.840 --> 00:52:53.639
the holes, it's like basic. Yeah. This one you

00:52:53.639 --> 00:52:57.960
need to do. And I did. And after, my body is

00:52:57.960 --> 00:53:02.239
like just here. And I climb. I have the vision

00:53:02.239 --> 00:53:07.460
of my climb, not the sensation of my climb. I'm

00:53:07.460 --> 00:53:10.880
out of my body. So that's a good thing. Yeah.

00:53:10.880 --> 00:53:13.940
Okay. Yeah, it's good. It's good because I have...

00:53:13.940 --> 00:53:16.280
Yeah. I did the Buddha. I have the first place

00:53:16.280 --> 00:53:22.360
after that. Yes, it's... Yes, it's... Different

00:53:22.360 --> 00:53:26.380
moment because it's so hard to explain what's

00:53:26.380 --> 00:53:30.380
happening at this moment. And so I guess like

00:53:30.380 --> 00:53:33.260
now looking back, we see the no -text holds a

00:53:33.260 --> 00:53:35.820
lot nowadays, but that was like the first time

00:53:35.820 --> 00:53:38.219
that you guys saw no -text in a comp, right?

00:53:38.519 --> 00:53:42.519
Yeah. So did you even train on no -text holds

00:53:42.519 --> 00:53:48.190
before? Same is, you create a coordination with

00:53:48.190 --> 00:53:51.289
no text. Oh, yeah. You have a boulder with no

00:53:51.289 --> 00:53:53.989
text. You don't use it. It's just like that.

00:53:55.769 --> 00:54:04.150
Just okay. And in final, before we made the boulder,

00:54:04.349 --> 00:54:08.329
we found a new hole on the spray wall, on the

00:54:08.329 --> 00:54:11.510
wall for warm -up, a plastic hole. Yeah. So,

00:54:11.590 --> 00:54:15.340
why put that here? why you put that on the isolation?

00:54:16.340 --> 00:54:20.079
And directly, we reflect about, oh, maybe we

00:54:20.079 --> 00:54:24.559
have that. We have that. And we try with coca,

00:54:24.579 --> 00:54:28.239
we use coca, try with coca, we buy lots of things,

00:54:28.440 --> 00:54:33.380
we put, no, water, salt with water, I don't know.

00:54:33.420 --> 00:54:41.199
We try, we try. For me, I think it's my particularity

00:54:41.199 --> 00:54:44.789
in climbing. The first is to have a good tactic.

00:54:45.969 --> 00:54:49.130
I'm not the strongest climber in the world. In

00:54:49.130 --> 00:54:53.170
camp, in outdoor, I have the big title. Just

00:54:53.170 --> 00:55:00.050
about my level is very different. And I'm very

00:55:00.050 --> 00:55:02.730
strict with my life. I have a good tactic. I

00:55:02.730 --> 00:55:06.869
have a routine I can follow. And for that, directly,

00:55:07.130 --> 00:55:10.949
I try to find solutions, up, up, water, na, na,

00:55:11.090 --> 00:55:13.280
na. And just about, okay, I have a good situation.

00:55:14.139 --> 00:55:17.219
It's really like two or three, four, five seconds.

00:55:18.079 --> 00:55:21.579
Like, okay, now maybe it's good. And after, a

00:55:21.579 --> 00:55:25.239
lot of people test all the Japanese. We love

00:55:25.239 --> 00:55:31.099
a lot about the Japanese guys because all try

00:55:31.099 --> 00:55:33.820
the water, half we know, we don't try the shot

00:55:33.820 --> 00:55:38.739
because you have dry skin, you sleep. You know,

00:55:38.860 --> 00:55:41.900
Japan are very like that. we can change the rule

00:55:41.900 --> 00:55:45.739
and he go climb like to put shark oh how tall

00:55:45.739 --> 00:55:49.480
goes oh stop stop you test in isolation with

00:55:49.480 --> 00:55:52.699
water and on the safety you put shark yeah because

00:55:52.699 --> 00:55:55.880
it's like two different he can't like that and

00:55:55.880 --> 00:56:01.559
me yeah maybe me i found just a good moment and

00:56:01.559 --> 00:56:06.699
if you check the video of this boulder when i

00:56:06.699 --> 00:56:12.150
go climbing when i did the movement I touch my

00:56:12.150 --> 00:56:18.630
hand. I have the flow up. And I have the feeling

00:56:18.630 --> 00:56:21.389
I put my hand, say, no, that's a good time. And

00:56:21.389 --> 00:56:24.289
now it's a good time. And now I did the movement.

00:56:24.730 --> 00:56:28.849
Yes. We have that. And my tips, it's very easy

00:56:28.849 --> 00:56:30.730
because sometimes we say, you put something,

00:56:30.909 --> 00:56:34.010
na, na, na, na, na, na. It's just water. And

00:56:34.010 --> 00:56:38.789
I put, I take a little bit liquid shock and water.

00:56:39.759 --> 00:56:43.840
And just I don't mix my liquid chalk. And on

00:56:43.840 --> 00:56:47.199
the liquid chalk, you have chalk, alcohol, and

00:56:47.199 --> 00:56:51.300
resin is like, it's like, resin is like you can

00:56:51.300 --> 00:56:53.679
found on tree. Yeah, yeah. It's like a glue.

00:56:54.059 --> 00:56:58.320
Yeah. Yeah. And just I put that with water and

00:56:58.320 --> 00:57:01.480
a little bit and found the good moment for the

00:57:01.480 --> 00:57:06.219
forego. Okay. Forego and just for me, yeah, for

00:57:06.219 --> 00:57:11.500
this boulder, just I go and I, At the last boulder,

00:57:11.599 --> 00:57:14.179
I know if I have the zone, I am the watcher.

00:57:14.380 --> 00:57:16.619
Okay, so you did know. That was an audience question.

00:57:16.780 --> 00:57:19.739
So you knew ahead of time. If you did that, you

00:57:19.739 --> 00:57:22.280
would win. Yeah, at the last boulder. Before

00:57:22.280 --> 00:57:28.840
my focus, my brain is not on me. When I finish

00:57:28.840 --> 00:57:36.679
my third boulder, my brain comes, the whistle

00:57:36.679 --> 00:57:43.000
comes. I can, my eyes are open. You know, when

00:57:43.000 --> 00:57:46.739
you go in the first boulder, you have two places

00:57:46.739 --> 00:57:48.739
in the relation. One place with other athletes

00:57:48.739 --> 00:57:53.179
and a small place here. It's when the first climber

00:57:53.179 --> 00:57:56.760
goes to the boulder. When he's finished, he goes

00:57:56.760 --> 00:58:00.460
to this place. Because you don't want to come

00:58:00.460 --> 00:58:02.280
here and maybe you can talk with other athletes.

00:58:02.579 --> 00:58:04.739
And up, other athletes like that. And after,

00:58:04.780 --> 00:58:07.179
when the last athletes are finished. All come

00:58:07.179 --> 00:58:10.039
back here. Just here, you have a screen. You

00:58:10.039 --> 00:58:12.760
have a screen. On the second place, you have

00:58:12.760 --> 00:58:15.639
a screen with a score. Oh, I didn't know that.

00:58:15.760 --> 00:58:17.960
Yeah, you have that. You can see the score just

00:58:17.960 --> 00:58:23.219
after you boulder, after you try. After the first

00:58:23.219 --> 00:58:28.719
boulder, I go. I did this boulder. I remember

00:58:28.719 --> 00:58:34.579
only I check me like, good job. I put my house

00:58:34.579 --> 00:58:40.079
on the chair and I check the screen and I saw

00:58:40.079 --> 00:58:42.400
nothing. The screen is just here, big like that.

00:58:43.739 --> 00:58:47.840
I try to see the number, zone, the result. I

00:58:47.840 --> 00:58:50.460
see nothing. Like for five, ten seconds, I try.

00:58:51.199 --> 00:58:53.699
Nothing. My heart is low. My body is not here.

00:58:53.840 --> 00:58:58.199
I can't see the number. It's just here. Okay,

00:58:58.360 --> 00:59:00.440
I stop. Okay, it's not a booger. Second one,

00:59:01.019 --> 00:59:04.940
boom, I did the booger. I come back, I try to

00:59:04.940 --> 00:59:10.739
read the screen, nothing. The third one I did,

00:59:10.860 --> 00:59:14.780
and when I did the roller, when my feet touched

00:59:14.780 --> 00:59:22.820
the mat, now all is gone. And at this moment,

00:59:22.920 --> 00:59:25.559
it's like, I just want more. I talk a little

00:59:25.559 --> 00:59:30.059
bit, just want more. It's maybe my day. Maybe.

00:59:31.000 --> 00:59:35.559
It's maybe my day. I go back to the lesson. I

00:59:35.559 --> 00:59:40.619
don't need to check the screen because I know

00:59:40.619 --> 00:59:44.820
it's maybe my day. All the information comes

00:59:44.820 --> 00:59:48.780
directly in my head. And after the focus of the

00:59:48.780 --> 00:59:51.539
last boulder, just I'm not really focused about

00:59:51.539 --> 00:59:54.780
the results. I'm not focused about, okay, I need

00:59:54.780 --> 00:59:57.400
to did this boulder, this zone, whatever. Just

00:59:57.400 --> 01:00:00.059
I know it's maybe my day. Give your maximum.

01:00:00.860 --> 01:00:05.019
And the first step. It's to have the zone. That's

01:00:05.019 --> 01:00:07.119
the first step. It's not, I have the zone, I

01:00:07.119 --> 01:00:12.059
win. No, it's like, maybe I can win. The first

01:00:12.059 --> 01:00:13.880
step, it's to did the zone, the second, to did

01:00:13.880 --> 01:00:17.099
the boulder. And after I go, I try, I try, I

01:00:17.099 --> 01:00:20.199
try, I have the zone, I continue the boulder,

01:00:20.260 --> 01:00:25.920
I fall, that's the last move. And when you watch

01:00:25.920 --> 01:00:28.719
the video, it's like, okay, Diweki, I've touched

01:00:28.719 --> 01:00:32.099
the ground, like, yeah. For me, it's like,

01:00:32.099 --> 01:00:36.000
seconds I touch the mat in my head it's like

01:00:36.000 --> 01:00:41.099
30 seconds like oh I'm the world champion it's

01:00:41.099 --> 01:00:46.820
okay I have my goal wow it's finished wow and

01:00:46.820 --> 01:00:49.199
like yes it's like 2 seconds just in my head

01:00:49.199 --> 01:00:57.179
it's like 30 seconds yeah and and yeah and after

01:00:57.179 --> 01:01:00.869
that you know I'm free yeah What if you had never

01:01:00.869 --> 01:01:02.989
reached that goal? If I don't have the title,

01:01:03.230 --> 01:01:06.309
it's okay. I have a lot of experience. I imagine

01:01:06.309 --> 01:01:13.190
it's okay. I know I can put a lot of energy for

01:01:13.190 --> 01:01:16.050
one goal. I can put a lot of energy on work.

01:01:16.409 --> 01:01:18.929
The last four years before World Champions, it's

01:01:18.929 --> 01:01:22.349
the first year I can put money in my bank, save

01:01:22.349 --> 01:01:25.329
money. It's the first time after a lot of time.

01:01:25.489 --> 01:01:28.489
Wow, yeah. Just when I take my place in the Olympics.

01:01:29.239 --> 01:01:33.639
I can save money. Before, I can't. Wow, that

01:01:33.639 --> 01:01:39.380
was a long time. Exactly. For me, it's like,

01:01:39.500 --> 01:01:41.480
okay, I have the money for my first business.

01:01:44.239 --> 01:01:47.559
I have the experience. I know I can do all in

01:01:47.559 --> 01:01:51.739
my life. I can do all in my life. It's just that.

01:01:52.000 --> 01:01:58.300
For all the people, like, oh, you work hard.

01:01:59.530 --> 01:02:03.909
People like you can do that. Yep. Let's talk

01:02:03.909 --> 01:02:07.750
about pull -ups. Ha ha, pull -ups. Yeah. I watched

01:02:07.750 --> 01:02:11.650
your video with Jonathan Sin. You guys were doing

01:02:11.650 --> 01:02:14.130
climbing for sure, but then you were also doing

01:02:14.130 --> 01:02:17.449
a lot of pull -ups. Is that seriously what your

01:02:17.449 --> 01:02:19.949
training looks like? That many pull -ups? Yeah,

01:02:19.989 --> 01:02:25.170
it's the base of the climb. In climbing and lots

01:02:25.170 --> 01:02:28.769
of work, you don't need to forget where you're

01:02:28.769 --> 01:02:36.719
from. And oh, you will you. And that's the base

01:02:36.719 --> 01:02:41.219
and you don't need to forget that. And for me

01:02:41.219 --> 01:02:46.579
and for my brother and me, we need to pull up

01:02:46.579 --> 01:02:50.460
a lot of time. It's like if you have the good

01:02:50.460 --> 01:02:55.199
sensation, if we have the sensation of, okay,

01:02:55.280 --> 01:02:58.920
the body are very light, it's like, okay. we

01:02:58.920 --> 01:03:03.539
can train. And it's a part of motivation too.

01:03:04.699 --> 01:03:08.059
It's before they come, I don't. Before when I

01:03:08.059 --> 01:03:10.300
start climbing, I pull up a lot because I have

01:03:10.300 --> 01:03:14.280
only ducks. It's an easy part for training. And

01:03:14.280 --> 01:03:17.219
when you don't know what is training in climbing,

01:03:17.420 --> 01:03:20.340
you just check climbing is that, it's like so,

01:03:20.579 --> 01:03:26.079
you do like that, you pull, okay, you do pull

01:03:26.079 --> 01:03:32.929
-ups. Okay? And it's just that. And now, for

01:03:32.929 --> 01:03:38.230
sure, with the high level, you need to try and

01:03:38.230 --> 01:03:43.849
hold the part of gliding. Just we don't forget

01:03:43.849 --> 01:03:49.210
what we like. And oh, we have this level. And

01:03:49.210 --> 01:03:52.190
we have this level because our physical parts

01:03:52.190 --> 01:03:55.789
are very high. My physical parts are very high

01:03:55.789 --> 01:04:02.929
before my technical part in my body. And before

01:04:02.929 --> 01:04:04.989
I come in French team, my level, my physical

01:04:04.989 --> 01:04:09.710
level are very high, like high level. Just my

01:04:09.710 --> 01:04:14.469
technical is like very bad, like regional level.

01:04:15.469 --> 01:04:19.010
You know, it's bad. And just I need, just I have

01:04:19.010 --> 01:04:21.409
a little bit of that and directly I have a good

01:04:21.409 --> 01:04:26.030
level. Yes, pull -ups, it's like my base. It's

01:04:26.030 --> 01:04:31.809
the base, and we don't forget that. So what does

01:04:31.809 --> 01:04:33.809
your training schedule look like? How many pull

01:04:33.809 --> 01:04:39.650
-ups? How much other stuff? Pull -ups, I have

01:04:39.650 --> 01:04:46.130
a routine when I warm up, and I do around

01:04:46.130 --> 01:04:50.329
to 100 pull -ups all the warm -up. Wow. You know,

01:04:50.409 --> 01:04:55.130
it's like running. 50 or 80 kilometers per week.

01:04:55.949 --> 01:05:02.210
Run four kilometers in a day, it's nothing. Me,

01:05:02.309 --> 01:05:06.710
100 pull -ups. One time in my life, I do

01:05:06.710 --> 01:05:12.150
per day. 100 is like, okay, it's just, it's nothing.

01:05:13.349 --> 01:05:17.530
Now I can warm up directly with one pen. I can

01:05:17.530 --> 01:05:21.389
do like now 20 pull -ups. It's okay. I don't

01:05:21.389 --> 01:05:23.949
have injury. I don't have pain. Just like, okay,

01:05:24.010 --> 01:05:26.389
it's normal movement for me. Like you wake up,

01:05:26.429 --> 01:05:28.630
you can jump. Now you can jump. You don't need

01:05:28.630 --> 01:05:30.389
to warm up for jump because you jump a lot of

01:05:30.389 --> 01:05:33.570
time in your life. And me, the same with the

01:05:33.570 --> 01:05:35.469
pull -ups. I pull -ups a lot of time and now

01:05:35.469 --> 01:05:38.829
it's like normal. And in warm -up, I have a good

01:05:38.829 --> 01:05:41.570
routine and I do it like that. 60 to 100, it

01:05:41.570 --> 01:05:47.570
depends. And in my training, in my week training,

01:05:48.349 --> 01:05:51.510
All the time, I have three times in a week, I

01:05:51.510 --> 01:05:55.010
train my physique, pull -ups, push -ups, dips.

01:05:55.789 --> 01:05:58.989
It's like all the time. All the time. When I

01:05:58.989 --> 01:06:01.409
train for competitions, it will be different

01:06:01.409 --> 01:06:03.849
because you need, for example, two months before

01:06:03.849 --> 01:06:07.510
the camp, you need to have a break, and there's

01:06:07.510 --> 01:06:12.130
that. Just in my normal life, it's like all the

01:06:12.130 --> 01:06:17.349
week, three times in a week. Okay. Yep. And how

01:06:17.349 --> 01:06:19.949
about technique? Since you said that was kind

01:06:19.949 --> 01:06:22.369
of behind, how did you level up the technique?

01:06:22.869 --> 01:06:25.469
How about the level of techniques? Just climbing,

01:06:25.670 --> 01:06:28.489
climbing, climbing, climbing, move a lot, move,

01:06:28.610 --> 01:06:34.070
change gym. Some people have a chance to train

01:06:34.070 --> 01:06:37.409
in place where you found a lot of center, different

01:06:37.409 --> 01:06:40.670
type of city. The gym change a lot of times,

01:06:40.690 --> 01:06:44.829
the boulder, it can stay in the same place. We

01:06:44.829 --> 01:06:49.070
can't follow a gym like that. We can't follow

01:06:49.070 --> 01:06:51.789
a gym like that. And if you don't have that,

01:06:51.889 --> 01:06:55.289
you need to move. Another technique, it's like

01:06:55.289 --> 01:07:00.889
a big book. It's a big book, and when you go

01:07:00.889 --> 01:07:03.650
and compete, you go climbing outdoors, you go

01:07:03.650 --> 01:07:07.550
in the gym, you go climb on the tension board,

01:07:07.769 --> 01:07:12.389
the kilter board, or whatever, you move, you

01:07:12.389 --> 01:07:15.800
do some movement. With your feet, with your arm,

01:07:15.880 --> 01:07:22.199
with both. And that's, if you climb with that

01:07:22.199 --> 01:07:26.340
one, the book fails. You have nothing on the

01:07:26.340 --> 01:07:30.400
books. If you climb with the brain, that's going

01:07:30.400 --> 01:07:33.400
to book. That's going to book. It's like, it's

01:07:33.400 --> 01:07:36.860
like, yes, it's just, you put that whole and,

01:07:36.960 --> 01:07:40.820
and, and after the part of, okay, you need to

01:07:40.820 --> 01:07:46.110
learn some movement, just. The important part

01:07:46.110 --> 01:07:52.809
for competition is to have fast adaptation. And

01:07:52.809 --> 01:07:56.949
for the fast adaptation, form the solution very

01:07:56.949 --> 01:08:03.469
fast, quickly. The book needs to be full. Like,

01:08:03.469 --> 01:08:06.570
okay, oh, there's a problem. Solution. Because

01:08:06.570 --> 01:08:10.889
one time, two, five, ten times, I repeat that,

01:08:11.010 --> 01:08:16.579
and now I can... put on my circuit or my boulder

01:08:16.579 --> 01:08:22.159
in my four or five minutes. And that is the important

01:08:22.159 --> 01:08:26.539
part. It's for that, in my training, I can only

01:08:26.539 --> 01:08:33.180
do what I need for the camp. And I'll give a

01:08:33.180 --> 01:08:35.180
good example. You can see a lot of videos of

01:08:35.180 --> 01:08:39.260
climbers pull -ups or hang with six millimeter

01:08:39.260 --> 01:08:44.630
holes. It's for watts. some competitor climber

01:08:44.630 --> 01:08:47.270
is for what you train that he say to be strong

01:08:47.270 --> 01:08:51.090
and figure do you so hold like six millimeters

01:08:51.090 --> 01:08:56.729
in the comp never no maybe 12 it's a minimum

01:08:56.729 --> 01:09:00.710
if you have 10 it's on the volume it's like yeah

01:09:00.710 --> 01:09:06.630
18 the succession say no 12 is a minimum 14 okay

01:09:06.630 --> 01:09:11.800
just turn on that and Put weight, if you want

01:09:11.800 --> 01:09:14.800
to be strong, just don't go and use a small hold.

01:09:15.520 --> 01:09:20.479
Like hold. And like me, I don't need to pull

01:09:20.479 --> 01:09:23.279
ups a lot. That's what I need for me because

01:09:23.279 --> 01:09:26.880
it's my energy, it's my gas for do hold, for

01:09:26.880 --> 01:09:32.180
accept hold what I don't like. And I don't need

01:09:32.180 --> 01:09:36.819
to pull ups 100 times, 200 times, 500 times all

01:09:36.819 --> 01:09:41.630
the day. Just that's given the motivation for

01:09:41.630 --> 01:09:45.390
all the rest of the training. Okay. Yeah. So

01:09:45.390 --> 01:09:47.210
you wouldn't recommend pull -ups for everyone.

01:09:47.329 --> 01:09:49.210
That's just you need to do the pull -ups for

01:09:49.210 --> 01:09:51.710
your mental health. No, yeah, yeah. I would recommend.

01:09:51.930 --> 01:09:54.970
We pull, huh? We kill in climbing. We pull. Okay,

01:09:55.050 --> 01:09:58.369
we push. We use technique. Just we pull. Just

01:09:58.369 --> 01:10:01.750
if you take the same, take all the athletes,

01:10:01.890 --> 01:10:04.909
maybe you can do pull -ups with 40 kilos. Just

01:10:04.909 --> 01:10:08.210
he can't do pull -ups. He can't do 100 pull -ups

01:10:08.210 --> 01:10:11.390
in 10 minutes. He can't do 30 pull -ups without

01:10:11.390 --> 01:10:18.149
weight. The easy part is to put weight, to repeat

01:10:18.149 --> 01:10:21.529
only one repeat or two, take three, four minutes

01:10:21.529 --> 01:10:26.149
rest, and go back, and that's it. No. No. Normally,

01:10:26.189 --> 01:10:28.789
when you train, after a day, you finish like,

01:10:28.850 --> 01:10:35.289
okay, I need to go sleep. And tired. And if you

01:10:35.289 --> 01:10:41.029
check all the athletes in the world, you have

01:10:41.029 --> 01:10:45.529
the best, best athlete with a lot of... He has

01:10:45.529 --> 01:10:48.890
material, he has money, he has all. Okay, he

01:10:48.890 --> 01:10:51.710
has an easy life. He can train one hour and a

01:10:51.710 --> 01:10:54.329
half in the morning, take a break, two hours

01:10:54.329 --> 01:10:56.710
in the afternoon, take a break, night, two hours,

01:10:56.890 --> 01:10:59.090
because it's very easy. He can go to the physio.

01:11:00.390 --> 01:11:04.649
That's the path some athletes have. More money,

01:11:04.810 --> 01:11:08.529
more results, more people around us. And you

01:11:08.529 --> 01:11:13.430
have all the athletes. All the day, you break

01:11:13.430 --> 01:11:18.149
all the body of the day. You train maximum hour

01:11:18.149 --> 01:11:21.930
of the day. It's just that. And after, you have

01:11:21.930 --> 01:11:27.170
the rest. And that's... It's an important part

01:11:27.170 --> 01:11:30.350
to try to push all the time limits. Of course.

01:11:30.550 --> 01:11:34.619
And before they come, two months, Now it's just

01:11:34.619 --> 01:11:39.880
the time you go more slowly. You try to work

01:11:39.880 --> 01:11:44.840
your body, your muscle, your brain, just before

01:11:44.840 --> 01:11:49.520
pushing it all the time. Okay. Work on technique.

01:11:50.560 --> 01:11:53.800
I think everyone knows the French team is really

01:11:53.800 --> 01:11:57.300
well known for their slab. Is there like a secret

01:11:57.300 --> 01:12:00.739
to French slab or any tricks, tips you have there?

01:12:01.100 --> 01:12:07.659
About that, for me, it's not about French are

01:12:07.659 --> 01:12:13.460
good in slab. It's more like French don't put

01:12:13.460 --> 01:12:18.000
the focus on the physique part in all sports.

01:12:18.300 --> 01:12:23.079
You know, look NBA. The NBA, basketball, look

01:12:23.079 --> 01:12:26.260
the USA team and the French team. I've never

01:12:26.260 --> 01:12:28.470
seen the French team, so I don't know. It's a

01:12:28.470 --> 01:12:31.710
good player. Yes, all is like that. Really? Okay.

01:12:31.970 --> 01:12:38.670
Big, just like that. In a lot of sports, it's

01:12:38.670 --> 01:12:45.609
just that. He puts in first technical, and for

01:12:45.609 --> 01:12:50.130
me, slab is not really technique. It's just on

01:12:50.130 --> 01:12:54.010
head. To repeat and to take risk, I think we

01:12:54.010 --> 01:13:00.310
have the culture. to repeat a lot, to take time

01:13:00.310 --> 01:13:04.149
to repeat a lot, some movement like that, and

01:13:04.149 --> 01:13:09.670
in slab. And it's for that now, a lot of Japan

01:13:09.670 --> 01:13:13.970
are good in slab. Because the culture in Japan

01:13:13.970 --> 01:13:17.510
is like, okay, if you don't do a style, you repeat,

01:13:17.670 --> 01:13:20.050
you repeat, you repeat, four, five, six, seven,

01:13:20.130 --> 01:13:24.069
one day. And now, these populations are good

01:13:24.069 --> 01:13:27.119
in slab. And a lot of climbers in this world

01:13:27.119 --> 01:13:31.319
are good in slabs because they understand you

01:13:31.319 --> 01:13:37.039
need nothing, just time and repeat. And I think

01:13:37.039 --> 01:13:40.300
it's just about that. We repeat a lot. Maybe

01:13:40.300 --> 01:13:46.220
we have an advance in France because a lot of

01:13:46.220 --> 01:13:50.140
setters come from France a long time ago in the

01:13:50.140 --> 01:13:54.729
IPC camp. Jackie Goddard, she stayed in the IFSC

01:13:54.729 --> 01:13:59.550
for a long time. It's the French. It's not the

01:13:59.550 --> 01:14:01.869
French side, it's the side of Jackie Goddard.

01:14:02.510 --> 01:14:05.869
And just Jackie Goddard is a French setter. It's

01:14:05.869 --> 01:14:08.710
for that the French teams are good on volume,

01:14:08.829 --> 01:14:14.729
on slab, because Jackie set a lot of calm. And

01:14:14.729 --> 01:14:18.979
I think... It's a part of that too. We have a

01:14:18.979 --> 01:14:21.739
lot of good setters come from France. Not now.

01:14:21.779 --> 01:14:24.239
Now we have a good setter around the world. Just

01:14:24.239 --> 01:14:28.100
20 years ago, if you take the list of setters,

01:14:28.260 --> 01:14:32.319
a lot of setters come from France. Okay. That

01:14:32.319 --> 01:14:35.300
makes sense. Do you train a lot with the rest

01:14:35.300 --> 01:14:39.939
of the French team or is it very solo? It's yourself.

01:14:40.300 --> 01:14:43.479
Are you and your brother? I watch the French

01:14:43.479 --> 01:14:48.720
team. I share my experience. I listen to all

01:14:48.720 --> 01:14:53.640
the athletes. Yes, I train a lot. I train a lot

01:14:53.640 --> 01:15:02.460
because for me, before Meiji came in the French

01:15:02.460 --> 01:15:05.920
team, before Meiji came in the French team, and

01:15:05.920 --> 01:15:09.140
Meiji is a young guy, he watched me follow and

01:15:09.140 --> 01:15:13.800
all that. Just no one athlete trains a lot. Give

01:15:13.800 --> 01:15:18.069
all for climbing. I only focus for that. And

01:15:18.069 --> 01:15:22.550
like me. And me, I want me, I want just some

01:15:22.550 --> 01:15:25.810
people give the same energy, the same motivation.

01:15:26.449 --> 01:15:34.630
Why bother? And sometimes, some athletes, sometimes,

01:15:35.029 --> 01:15:38.970
sometimes, just I don't train with a manicorm.

01:15:39.149 --> 01:15:43.470
He's a good friend of me. We train a long year,

01:15:43.529 --> 01:15:46.670
a long year we are. like in concurrence together

01:15:46.670 --> 01:15:49.909
we train with us we have the same trainer for

01:15:49.909 --> 01:15:54.649
three years i don't know i don't train with this

01:15:54.649 --> 01:15:58.609
guy because he don't have the same organization

01:15:58.609 --> 01:16:03.649
of me he come in a little bit late he warm up

01:16:03.649 --> 01:16:06.510
30 minutes me i warm up in the base i need to

01:16:06.510 --> 01:16:11.329
take one hour and a half um a lot of time we

01:16:11.329 --> 01:16:14.819
have the phone Oh, Pete, the phone, no, no, no,

01:16:14.819 --> 01:16:19.260
no, no. It's okay. It's worse for him. No problem.

01:16:19.420 --> 01:16:22.520
Just for me, I'm not really happy. It's not good

01:16:22.520 --> 01:16:26.439
for my environment. Okay, I go alone. And all

01:16:26.439 --> 01:16:29.939
the time I train alone for that, for only have

01:16:29.939 --> 01:16:34.319
the focus on what I want. And when I come with

01:16:34.319 --> 01:16:38.220
other people, I use that like emulation. Like,

01:16:38.220 --> 01:16:40.760
okay, it's the best for me. It's a competition.

01:16:42.069 --> 01:16:45.329
And when I climb with other athletes, it's like,

01:16:45.449 --> 01:16:48.729
okay, we share. I don't climb with you out of

01:16:48.729 --> 01:16:51.729
time. So I want to be the best. If I want to

01:16:51.729 --> 01:16:55.250
be the best, I need to beat you. And for that,

01:16:55.449 --> 01:16:57.949
I need to be nervous. I need to absorb stress.

01:16:58.310 --> 01:17:00.350
I need to have a good emulation. And for that,

01:17:00.510 --> 01:17:04.289
if I climb all the day with you, this can be

01:17:04.289 --> 01:17:07.729
a problem when I want a simulation, a good simulation

01:17:07.729 --> 01:17:11.060
by the competition. And for that, I find Alan

01:17:11.060 --> 01:17:15.539
too. And if I find Alan too, no one can tell

01:17:15.539 --> 01:17:17.520
me, like, oh, no, you can do that, that, that's

01:17:17.520 --> 01:17:20.979
not good. No, no, no. I'm alone. I go in my way.

01:17:21.420 --> 01:17:25.819
And I know the road. Maybe sometimes not the

01:17:25.819 --> 01:17:32.300
good one. Just the goal is here. The start is

01:17:32.300 --> 01:17:36.420
here. I go here. Maybe sometimes it's like that.

01:17:36.500 --> 01:17:41.880
Just I go here. And if some people come help

01:17:41.880 --> 01:17:46.380
me, okay, I accept. I take help. I watch. I learn.

01:17:46.760 --> 01:17:50.920
I watch all the athletes, all the time. And I

01:17:50.920 --> 01:17:54.279
accept that just that I'm allowed to go here.

01:17:54.859 --> 01:17:57.739
That's only funny. And the wave is the same.

01:17:58.779 --> 01:18:01.239
Do you feel like there's any other climber who

01:18:01.239 --> 01:18:05.300
has a similar style to you? Yeah, some athletes

01:18:05.300 --> 01:18:08.859
are like that. I think with the high level, it's

01:18:08.859 --> 01:18:10.600
a little bit different because some athletes

01:18:10.600 --> 01:18:14.800
have that, just with more money and more people

01:18:14.800 --> 01:18:21.640
around. For example, this. She is a queen. Queen

01:18:21.640 --> 01:18:26.600
in climbing, Yania. She will not have camp. Just

01:18:26.600 --> 01:18:29.640
Yania train alone. Other times, she like train

01:18:29.640 --> 01:18:33.640
a lot. She are more strong just when she go in

01:18:33.640 --> 01:18:36.399
the camp, when she train with some people. Wow.

01:18:37.359 --> 01:18:41.060
She had just only the focus for weed, only for

01:18:41.060 --> 01:18:45.079
that. And some architects are just... But suddenly,

01:18:45.319 --> 01:18:54.380
we decided to go alone because all people around

01:18:54.380 --> 01:18:59.640
us don't give the same energy, the same motivation.

01:18:59.859 --> 01:19:02.140
And if you don't give the same motivation and

01:19:02.140 --> 01:19:06.460
same energy to me, you can't stay with me. I

01:19:06.460 --> 01:19:08.579
have some trainer, for example, when I come in

01:19:08.579 --> 01:19:10.899
a French team, not the first time, the second

01:19:10.899 --> 01:19:14.199
time, when I move to Voiron for Olympics, I move

01:19:14.199 --> 01:19:16.979
in a place, you have, in this place, you have

01:19:16.979 --> 01:19:20.720
speed, lead, and bullering. Not really good for

01:19:20.720 --> 01:19:22.840
bullering. It's not really good for speed and

01:19:22.840 --> 01:19:25.600
lead because it's outside. It's so -called a

01:19:25.600 --> 01:19:29.180
big part of the year. Just all is in place. Yes,

01:19:29.199 --> 01:19:32.420
the condition is like, if you come here, you

01:19:32.420 --> 01:19:35.949
need to have... The trainer of the French pole

01:19:35.949 --> 01:19:39.310
needs to train you. No problem. For me, no problem.

01:19:39.670 --> 01:19:43.109
I take all I can take. No problem. It starts

01:19:43.109 --> 01:19:48.829
after six months, I say. The guy, when I come,

01:19:48.890 --> 01:19:53.689
because I come first at the gym, and I open the

01:19:53.689 --> 01:19:56.029
gym, I close the gym. I'm not the trainer, I'm

01:19:56.029 --> 01:19:59.750
not the coach, I'm not the owner of the pole.

01:20:00.569 --> 01:20:03.369
I'm just an athlete. It's me, I'm the first,

01:20:03.510 --> 01:20:08.149
I am the last all the day. That's okay, it's

01:20:08.149 --> 01:20:11.369
my choice. I come at seven and a half or eight

01:20:11.369 --> 01:20:14.689
hours to the gym. At seven or eight, I go with

01:20:14.689 --> 01:20:19.869
my home. So for a trainer, I come at nine. And

01:20:19.869 --> 01:20:23.470
five o 'clock, four, five o 'clock, four, five

01:20:23.470 --> 01:20:26.510
o 'clock afternoon, go home. Okay, the coach

01:20:26.510 --> 01:20:29.590
has come at nine. Just me, it's okay, I'm here.

01:20:29.689 --> 01:20:33.100
It's one hour, one hour and a half. Just go to

01:20:33.100 --> 01:20:35.500
the office. You work one hour. You come back

01:20:35.500 --> 01:20:38.180
for the exercise. One hour. You go back to the

01:20:38.180 --> 01:20:40.199
office. Blah, blah, blah. No, no, no, no, no,

01:20:40.199 --> 01:20:42.560
no. It's just that. After six months, I just

01:20:42.560 --> 01:20:45.180
start talking to the guy like, OK, I know you

01:20:45.180 --> 01:20:50.000
have a lot of work. Just you train me. I give

01:20:50.000 --> 01:20:54.619
all my time, all my motivation, all my life for

01:20:54.619 --> 01:20:59.590
this project. It's not just for me. Just... You

01:20:59.590 --> 01:21:05.970
win if I win. The Federation win if I win. Can

01:21:05.970 --> 01:21:10.710
you give the same energy to me? Come. Not come

01:21:10.710 --> 01:21:12.770
at the same time. I know you have a family or

01:21:12.770 --> 01:21:15.170
whatever. I don't talk about that. Just when

01:21:15.170 --> 01:21:18.090
you are with, can you stay with me? If you want,

01:21:18.109 --> 01:21:21.770
you take your laptop and you walk on the gym.

01:21:21.890 --> 01:21:25.050
No problem. This is good. Can you stay with me?

01:21:25.569 --> 01:21:28.859
Can you follow me? And you give him the same

01:21:28.859 --> 01:21:32.460
energy? You say no. Say, okay, I go alone. I

01:21:32.460 --> 01:21:34.340
can understand because you have a lot of work.

01:21:34.600 --> 01:21:38.399
You need to work for the administrative part,

01:21:38.739 --> 01:21:42.319
for the athletes, for the coaching, the plan,

01:21:42.680 --> 01:21:47.699
the training plan. It's a lot of work. I know.

01:21:48.359 --> 01:21:54.279
And just say, okay, I go alone. Because for me,

01:21:54.300 --> 01:21:57.810
I want me, I want only some people. It's the

01:21:57.810 --> 01:22:00.189
same energy and motivation. It's usually not

01:22:00.189 --> 01:22:03.229
that tough. No, I go out and I go out when I

01:22:03.229 --> 01:22:07.489
prefer. I feel like, especially with, we're going

01:22:07.489 --> 01:22:09.689
to get into the evolution of bouldering in a

01:22:09.689 --> 01:22:12.850
bit, but with how much bouldering has changed

01:22:12.850 --> 01:22:15.529
over the years, I feel like doing it alone also

01:22:15.529 --> 01:22:17.869
makes it a lot harder. For you, since you're

01:22:17.869 --> 01:22:21.029
one of the older athletes now, was it hard for

01:22:21.029 --> 01:22:23.329
you to, or do you feel like you had to put a

01:22:23.329 --> 01:22:25.590
lot of work into learning the new moves that

01:22:25.590 --> 01:22:30.550
came with bouldering? Yeah, yeah. The new movement

01:22:30.550 --> 01:22:35.090
and the young, follow the young. It's very hard.

01:22:35.229 --> 01:22:39.289
It's very hard. Just, I don't try to follow the

01:22:39.289 --> 01:22:42.310
young. And that's, I understand very quickly.

01:22:42.350 --> 01:22:46.470
I understand that. Don't try to be the same.

01:22:47.810 --> 01:22:52.109
Mejdi, Paul, Samer Guzou is a French guy because

01:22:52.109 --> 01:22:56.890
I saw lots of French guys from Japan. No, because...

01:22:57.079 --> 01:23:03.199
You don't start with the same material. You don't

01:23:03.199 --> 01:23:05.579
have the same body. You don't have the same attitude.

01:23:06.720 --> 01:23:13.140
Just go with what you have and try to have a

01:23:13.140 --> 01:23:18.779
better level for what you don't have. You know,

01:23:18.920 --> 01:23:22.079
my training, I have a vision of training. It's

01:23:22.079 --> 01:23:26.970
like in first train, you have attitude. first.

01:23:27.649 --> 01:23:35.369
And second, you train what you don't like or

01:23:35.369 --> 01:23:38.109
what's not your aptitude. You train a little

01:23:38.109 --> 01:23:42.430
bit. And don't forget your base, like I talked

01:23:42.430 --> 01:23:46.909
about just before. My aptitude is that. With

01:23:46.909 --> 01:23:51.369
that, I can make the difference. I need to develop

01:23:51.369 --> 01:23:55.750
that, continue to develop that. And if the parts

01:23:56.239 --> 01:23:58.619
don't like, or it's not my aptitude, or whatever,

01:23:58.880 --> 01:24:02.920
it's here. If I can go just like that, maybe

01:24:02.920 --> 01:24:07.760
one time I can do the same to hold, just with

01:24:07.760 --> 01:24:13.180
my aptitude, I can have a better level. And it's

01:24:13.180 --> 01:24:17.399
for that, in comp, all the year, I have a...

01:24:17.399 --> 01:24:20.319
I can make the difference a little bit, because

01:24:20.319 --> 01:24:25.760
I have a big physical boulder, big job. It's

01:24:25.760 --> 01:24:28.079
not just that, because I'm very good in slab,

01:24:28.239 --> 01:24:35.699
too. After some years, I developed my slab skill.

01:24:36.560 --> 01:24:41.319
Because it's only here. It's not about technique.

01:24:41.539 --> 01:24:46.840
It's about waist. It's about waist. Being willing

01:24:46.840 --> 01:24:51.359
to skin your shins and your knees. I have pain

01:24:51.359 --> 01:24:54.670
now, actually, because I have a lot. Oh, no.

01:24:54.770 --> 01:25:01.109
I sleep a lot of time. Yes, I repeat. And yes,

01:25:01.270 --> 01:25:04.409
and it's because I have this attitude, I can

01:25:04.409 --> 01:25:08.029
stay on a high level. And maybe if one time you

01:25:08.029 --> 01:25:10.029
make the difference, maybe it's the time when

01:25:10.029 --> 01:25:15.350
you win. And that's all my career is like that.

01:25:15.449 --> 01:25:19.369
I go in a camp. Maybe my pace is certain. Just

01:25:19.369 --> 01:25:25.000
I do one boulder and just. If you have 100 people

01:25:25.000 --> 01:25:32.220
clients, just five people do this boulder, then

01:25:32.220 --> 01:25:36.279
I'm on these five people. Okay, I can make the

01:25:36.279 --> 01:25:40.000
difference. I can create the difference. I need

01:25:40.000 --> 01:25:43.260
to continue like that because if one time the

01:25:43.260 --> 01:25:46.720
other boulder, I can add the same music to all

01:25:46.720 --> 01:25:50.840
and make the difference, it's okay. Okay. And

01:25:50.840 --> 01:25:54.359
so what is the future for you? I see you're still

01:25:54.359 --> 01:25:56.739
doing some competitions, just not World Cups,

01:25:56.840 --> 01:26:00.600
but still competing. Yeah, I continue the competition,

01:26:00.659 --> 01:26:05.439
like Master and Sound Compete and Sound Compete.

01:26:05.560 --> 01:26:10.359
Just about my future in climbing, competition,

01:26:10.600 --> 01:26:14.720
I don't know. Now I don't know. I have energy.

01:26:15.079 --> 01:26:20.119
Yeah. I have energy. I have... Motivation for

01:26:20.119 --> 01:26:25.960
training. I train lots. Sometimes I don't have

01:26:25.960 --> 01:26:30.319
the same focus, just I train. My level is good.

01:26:32.380 --> 01:26:37.560
It's better, my level. Just, I don't know, I

01:26:37.560 --> 01:26:39.960
don't reflect about what's going to happen. Maybe

01:26:39.960 --> 01:26:42.380
next year I'll come back in camp. I don't know.

01:26:42.439 --> 01:26:45.199
Some people talk to me about, next year I'll

01:26:45.199 --> 01:26:47.869
come in French Championship. Or maybe it's Olympics

01:26:47.869 --> 01:26:52.649
in 20 years, you want to go? Now, no. I have

01:26:52.649 --> 01:26:56.390
what I want. No. I don't know what's going to

01:26:56.390 --> 01:26:58.350
happen in my head in six months, in one year.

01:26:58.850 --> 01:27:04.649
I know, I don't know. Okay, yeah. And it's for

01:27:04.649 --> 01:27:07.010
that I continue to try. It's for that I continue

01:27:07.010 --> 01:27:11.170
to compete. Because I'm not really sure it's

01:27:11.170 --> 01:27:17.640
my time to stop completely. Climbing. Because

01:27:17.640 --> 01:27:21.479
climbing, it's with competition. Climbing is

01:27:21.479 --> 01:27:24.760
with performance. If I don't need that, I can

01:27:24.760 --> 01:27:28.920
put my energy, all my energy, all my time, for

01:27:28.920 --> 01:27:33.979
other, maybe for my family, for my work, and

01:27:33.979 --> 01:27:39.420
just that. For now, it's like 50 -50 climbing

01:27:39.420 --> 01:27:43.659
and work. Just 50 -50 on one day, it's 18 hours

01:27:43.659 --> 01:27:48.560
per day for me. 50 -50, it's nine hours. It's

01:27:48.560 --> 01:27:50.279
not nine. It's like more five -hour climbing

01:27:50.279 --> 01:27:54.560
and 10 -hour, 12 -hour, 12 -hour walk all day.

01:27:56.319 --> 01:27:58.920
Just for future, for climbing. I don't know.

01:27:58.920 --> 01:28:01.300
Just like when I go compete some master, I take

01:28:01.300 --> 01:28:05.000
pleasure because I take pleasure in master, competition,

01:28:05.359 --> 01:28:08.979
international master, because it's a moment when

01:28:08.979 --> 01:28:13.640
I can be a little bit more free and take. time

01:28:13.640 --> 01:28:16.319
with people talk with people talk with athletes

01:28:16.319 --> 01:28:19.199
without with no athlete because i like the community

01:28:19.199 --> 01:28:22.180
in climbing i don't like the community community

01:28:22.180 --> 01:28:27.600
of high level climbing but it's just a part just

01:28:27.600 --> 01:28:30.140
for me i like the community in climbing and i

01:28:30.140 --> 01:28:32.420
like to go in the spoil camp time with a lot

01:28:32.420 --> 01:28:35.779
of people yeah uh go climb in a gym at night

01:28:35.779 --> 01:28:39.079
you have a lot of people A lot of people, when

01:28:39.079 --> 01:28:40.859
I go climbing in the gym, they say, well, you

01:28:40.859 --> 01:28:44.119
can climb at 7 o 'clock. A lot of people, you

01:28:44.119 --> 01:28:46.600
can climb. A lot of people want a picture with

01:28:46.600 --> 01:28:50.520
you, autograph, whatever. This was the best moment.

01:28:51.140 --> 01:28:54.659
We are a climber because we like to share a moment

01:28:54.659 --> 01:28:57.560
like that. We climb bouldering because it's very

01:28:57.560 --> 01:29:01.399
easy. You can talk easily, help. You can climb

01:29:01.399 --> 01:29:03.920
with a beginner, with a world champion, with

01:29:03.920 --> 01:29:06.319
people who climb three times in a week. It's

01:29:06.319 --> 01:29:10.960
very easy. For now, I use climbing like that.

01:29:11.619 --> 01:29:14.619
And the second part about my future, it's work.

01:29:14.960 --> 01:29:20.140
To be rich. I continue to work for that. With

01:29:20.140 --> 01:29:24.359
my brother, I have a gym. Yeah. Yeah, I have

01:29:24.359 --> 01:29:29.979
the gym. We try to create other gyms. We build

01:29:29.979 --> 01:29:34.619
MBS Industries. It's a brand. We build the auto

01:29:34.619 --> 01:29:36.970
belay with electric assistance. Oh, really? Yes,

01:29:37.189 --> 01:29:40.890
it's coming in France. We deliver some gym now,

01:29:41.109 --> 01:29:44.170
slowly going international. It's for giving accessibility

01:29:44.170 --> 01:29:47.069
of climbing. It's a big part of our life because

01:29:47.069 --> 01:29:54.229
we know what climbing gives us. Climbing gives

01:29:54.229 --> 01:29:58.329
a good life, a good environment, good community,

01:29:58.569 --> 01:30:02.090
good friends. And we want to give that for more

01:30:02.090 --> 01:30:05.779
people. And we create. Some auto -ballet assistance

01:30:05.779 --> 01:30:07.960
for give accessibility for disabilities people,

01:30:08.220 --> 01:30:14.060
fat people, old people, to reform a social place.

01:30:14.359 --> 01:30:19.140
Yeah. We build that. I have a shop. I have a

01:30:19.140 --> 01:30:21.220
shop. I build some tools for training. I have

01:30:21.220 --> 01:30:24.239
a different one. I train young. I train some

01:30:24.239 --> 01:30:28.819
young. In climbing, I train. I give my experience.

01:30:29.199 --> 01:30:33.140
A lot of young. Yeah. Not from young. The young

01:30:33.140 --> 01:30:37.420
I want, me. Okay. The young around me have a

01:30:37.420 --> 01:30:42.560
lot of motivation. And we try to build with Madrock.

01:30:42.619 --> 01:30:47.500
I'm in Los Angeles with Madrock for Coty to build

01:30:47.500 --> 01:30:50.260
some material and give accessibility, build the

01:30:50.260 --> 01:30:53.699
shoes, and maybe build the shoes, good shoes

01:30:53.699 --> 01:30:57.699
for climbers. You can pay at 60 or 70 maximum.

01:30:58.880 --> 01:31:05.920
And now it's like... I build all the future with

01:31:05.920 --> 01:31:10.699
the work. Okay. And so no more, like, necessarily

01:31:10.699 --> 01:31:14.340
climbing goals, like climb a harder grade or,

01:31:14.359 --> 01:31:16.720
like, have an outdoor project or anything like

01:31:16.720 --> 01:31:22.600
that? For now, no. For now, I want to, I want,

01:31:22.659 --> 01:31:27.180
I have some small goal. Yeah, yeah, I have, because

01:31:27.180 --> 01:31:31.460
I want to do all in climbing. I do all the comp

01:31:31.460 --> 01:31:34.899
in climbing. Olympics too, it's like, okay, I

01:31:34.899 --> 01:31:41.100
do all. Yeah. Perfect. And the part, I work in

01:31:41.100 --> 01:31:43.100
all the places, climbing, teaching, sitting,

01:31:43.300 --> 01:31:48.119
all. And in climbing, I'm just, I have a part,

01:31:48.199 --> 01:31:54.199
outdoor part. And this outdoor part, maybe to,

01:31:54.399 --> 01:32:03.520
I want to do one 9A in my life. One 9A. It's

01:32:03.520 --> 01:32:07.479
like if I have one 9A in my life, for me, I do

01:32:07.479 --> 01:32:14.800
all. All the world, camp, and outdoor. And for

01:32:14.800 --> 01:32:17.520
me, the story is the story of my brother, too.

01:32:18.960 --> 01:32:22.619
It's the first story to my brother. Maybe my

01:32:22.619 --> 01:32:27.739
brother doesn't have the motivation to go now

01:32:27.739 --> 01:32:30.960
because after speed climbing or start climbing,

01:32:31.039 --> 01:32:36.220
it's very hard. And to go to try to do the action

01:32:36.220 --> 01:32:39.060
direct. Oh, okay. Action direct is the first

01:32:39.060 --> 01:32:45.520
nine hay in the world. Did by the stronger guy,

01:32:45.760 --> 01:32:48.859
the British in the world. The guy is so strong.

01:32:49.439 --> 01:32:53.100
He's a trainer guy. And maybe I want to do that.

01:32:53.399 --> 01:32:56.479
That's a small goal in the outdoor. And so the

01:32:56.479 --> 01:32:59.750
goal is just climbing, climbing, climbing. And

01:32:59.750 --> 01:33:03.029
I want to go, maybe in July, I go to South Africa

01:33:03.029 --> 01:33:07.630
for one month. And just, I don't want to do the

01:33:07.630 --> 01:33:10.369
harbor boulder. There's maybe a lot of boulder.

01:33:11.369 --> 01:33:17.930
And I want to take some moment with some friends

01:33:17.930 --> 01:33:20.510
and share a moment with a lot of people and climb.

01:33:21.350 --> 01:33:24.289
Okay. But mostly work goals. Yeah. Mostly work

01:33:24.289 --> 01:33:26.920
goals. Okay. That makes sense. Great. So let's

01:33:26.920 --> 01:33:28.939
move into some of the audience submitted questions

01:33:28.939 --> 01:33:33.439
now. I think we have around three. First one

01:33:33.439 --> 01:33:35.720
was just from, I guess I'm here now on Instagram,

01:33:35.899 --> 01:33:38.880
just said, no questions, just love. Thank you.

01:33:39.239 --> 01:33:42.479
Thanks a lot. Just love and just stays true.

01:33:42.659 --> 01:33:46.439
And that's most important. Yes, exactly. So now

01:33:46.439 --> 01:33:49.380
the questions. First one, who were your role

01:33:49.380 --> 01:33:51.560
models growing up, climbing or non -climbing

01:33:51.560 --> 01:33:55.140
related? Only my boss. Okay. Only Mike Bozer,

01:33:55.180 --> 01:34:02.000
you know. Mike Bozer, it's, wow. He has a mental,

01:34:02.260 --> 01:34:05.739
crazy mental, crazy brain. He can be very focused

01:34:05.739 --> 01:34:12.899
on his goal and very consistency. And, yeah,

01:34:12.960 --> 01:34:18.579
it's the best example I can have in my life.

01:34:18.699 --> 01:34:22.779
Yeah. Not climb my life, in my life. And I follow

01:34:22.779 --> 01:34:26.930
Mike Bozer. I'm not I build a part of my life

01:34:26.930 --> 01:34:33.869
alone maybe it's 70 % I build it's for me and

01:34:33.869 --> 01:34:37.789
30 % I follow my brother because it's a good

01:34:37.789 --> 01:34:43.229
example of guy good with all people don't forget

01:34:43.229 --> 01:34:47.770
where you're from give all for what he wants

01:34:47.770 --> 01:34:52.189
take a lot of risk yeah my brother yeah okay

01:34:52.939 --> 01:34:59.300
Next one from Jenilofa Chandelina. Okay. Just

01:34:59.300 --> 01:35:01.720
wants to know more about your family. Has your

01:35:01.720 --> 01:35:04.560
mother ever climbed? Have you ever taken them

01:35:04.560 --> 01:35:09.899
climbing? No. In my family, no one climbed. My

01:35:09.899 --> 01:35:12.600
sister started climbing at the same time. Okay.

01:35:12.819 --> 01:35:15.399
One of my sisters. I have two sisters. And one

01:35:15.399 --> 01:35:17.100
of my sisters started climbing at the same time.

01:35:17.199 --> 01:35:20.840
She stopped after three years. The problem is

01:35:20.840 --> 01:35:24.710
cold. About... You are a woman, break nails,

01:35:25.630 --> 01:35:30.430
your body, your legs, your muscles. If you have

01:35:30.430 --> 01:35:32.710
muscles, you are not a woman. That's a shit world

01:35:32.710 --> 01:35:37.670
for the artist. So that just, we don't have...

01:35:37.670 --> 01:35:42.550
Beside me, we are only... We are the children

01:35:42.550 --> 01:35:50.310
who do sports. My family and my mother are just

01:35:50.310 --> 01:35:54.539
tired. Just take... Too much working. Exactly,

01:35:54.539 --> 01:35:58.220
too much working for the children. She has six

01:35:58.220 --> 01:36:02.300
for a lot of years ago, like 20 years. She fights

01:36:02.300 --> 01:36:07.539
for the life. For that, I live in a small region

01:36:07.539 --> 01:36:10.819
in France. I build my gym in a small region because

01:36:10.819 --> 01:36:14.020
I want to take my family, my father, my mother,

01:36:14.060 --> 01:36:20.850
just close to me. And my story is like... Because

01:36:20.850 --> 01:36:23.250
we developed the automobile with electric assistance,

01:36:23.529 --> 01:36:28.029
for accessibility for all people. Yeah. And my,

01:36:28.130 --> 01:36:33.569
not my royal father, my father actually, started

01:36:33.569 --> 01:36:39.550
climbing in October, last, in October. Wow. Some

01:36:39.550 --> 01:36:42.489
months ago. Took a long time to get into it.

01:36:42.750 --> 01:36:47.649
Exactly, at 81 years. Wow. 81 years, and you

01:36:47.649 --> 01:36:49.899
go climbing two, three times in a week. Wow.

01:36:50.140 --> 01:36:52.880
With the system, because without it, it's too

01:36:52.880 --> 01:36:56.600
hard. Yeah. With the system. And that's, for

01:36:56.600 --> 01:37:02.939
me, the best. Because my father helped us a lot

01:37:02.939 --> 01:37:07.119
to have a house, to have food, and to go to school.

01:37:07.840 --> 01:37:12.000
And because we have a better situation. My mother

01:37:12.000 --> 01:37:16.960
works because my mother, she's not with this

01:37:16.960 --> 01:37:20.390
guy just because at the beginning. Because it's

01:37:20.390 --> 01:37:24.409
a good guy. Because you need good life for the

01:37:24.409 --> 01:37:27.829
children. Okay. A lot of people are like that.

01:37:28.069 --> 01:37:33.369
You don't stay like, oh, you are with this girl

01:37:33.369 --> 01:37:38.510
because you love. No. At the beginning, you don't

01:37:38.510 --> 01:37:41.770
love these people. These people give you something.

01:37:42.770 --> 01:37:47.170
Interesting. And sometimes, some people are...

01:37:48.029 --> 01:37:51.689
That's like, okay, bring stuff. Like, okay, I

01:37:51.689 --> 01:37:53.170
don't know what's happened. Just we need to be

01:37:53.170 --> 01:37:59.569
together. Just for 99 % it's like, you give me

01:37:59.569 --> 01:38:02.090
slide all the day. Okay, I want to be with you.

01:38:02.869 --> 01:38:07.729
You give me security. Okay, I want to be with

01:38:07.729 --> 01:38:11.409
you. You give me money, I can do with you. Okay.

01:38:12.060 --> 01:38:14.619
Very practical way of looking at it. Yeah, after

01:38:14.619 --> 01:38:17.520
you breathe the love. You breathe the love, you

01:38:17.520 --> 01:38:21.880
breathe life together. At the beginning, you

01:38:21.880 --> 01:38:28.479
follow one person or you start a life with one

01:38:28.479 --> 01:38:30.619
person because they give you something and maybe

01:38:30.619 --> 01:38:33.159
you give you something too. It's like together,

01:38:33.399 --> 01:38:37.479
just another thing. And yeah, my father followed

01:38:37.479 --> 01:38:44.520
all my life. He buys the first climbing shoes.

01:38:47.000 --> 01:38:50.899
He gives us a big support. Just he never can

01:38:50.899 --> 01:38:53.699
climb because it's a hole, he has a lot of injury,

01:38:54.260 --> 01:39:00.039
a lot of weight too. And at 81 years, I climbed

01:39:00.039 --> 01:39:03.399
the first time with him. And like, it's just

01:39:03.399 --> 01:39:08.399
like, for me, it's like, okay. I win because...

01:39:10.250 --> 01:39:13.449
I mean, because my father -in -law can understand

01:39:13.449 --> 01:39:20.109
what he creates. Because it gives me the possibility

01:39:20.109 --> 01:39:25.590
to have what I have now, what I do. And he can

01:39:25.590 --> 01:39:27.909
have the sensation of that. And after that, he

01:39:27.909 --> 01:39:30.649
says, whoa, it's cool. And he could climb three

01:39:30.649 --> 01:39:33.170
times in a week. Okay, that's good to hear. It's

01:39:33.170 --> 01:39:37.229
like full circle. Exactly. Okay. Last question

01:39:37.229 --> 01:39:40.109
then from Kathy Sage. How do you maintain strength

01:39:40.109 --> 01:39:44.149
without getting injured? Who? The goal. Your

01:39:44.149 --> 01:39:48.270
goal. You know, you can, if you have injury or

01:39:48.270 --> 01:39:52.210
whatever, you say you need to go to physiotherapist,

01:39:52.210 --> 01:39:58.670
put high, to just that. Okay. That's the part,

01:39:58.729 --> 01:40:05.300
the normal part of recovery. Just. What gives

01:40:05.300 --> 01:40:09.520
the energy to recovery? It's what you want. For

01:40:09.520 --> 01:40:12.619
what? For what you recovery? Because you have

01:40:12.619 --> 01:40:15.300
a competition, because you have a goal, because

01:40:15.300 --> 01:40:18.020
you have your children, they need to have you

01:40:18.020 --> 01:40:20.199
to harm, because you have to walk and you need

01:40:20.199 --> 01:40:23.220
to come back, because not you want to walk, because

01:40:23.220 --> 01:40:26.359
you need the money for something and you need

01:40:26.359 --> 01:40:30.180
to go to the walk. And just put your goal and

01:40:30.180 --> 01:40:36.760
say, okay, I need to, To work hard because my

01:40:36.760 --> 01:40:41.500
goal is here. And maybe I need to put hold, to

01:40:41.500 --> 01:40:44.539
have a good recovery, fast recovery, because

01:40:44.539 --> 01:40:48.100
my goal is just here. If it's 10 years, maybe

01:40:48.100 --> 01:40:53.319
I can take my time. It's not now. Just maybe

01:40:53.319 --> 01:40:57.659
reflect about your goal and that gives you motivation

01:40:57.659 --> 01:41:01.960
for a fast recovery or not, or just good recovery.

01:41:02.750 --> 01:41:06.810
My brother in the Olympics, but the biceps. Yep.

01:41:07.010 --> 01:41:10.529
Why he have a fast recovery after five months.

01:41:10.770 --> 01:41:13.649
Wow, it was only five months. Five months, he

01:41:13.649 --> 01:41:18.850
break, surgery, five months. He can climb at

01:41:18.850 --> 01:41:22.350
100%. He was climbing after three months. Wow.

01:41:22.409 --> 01:41:27.270
And after five months, 100 % he can climb. Only

01:41:27.270 --> 01:41:33.109
because he need to continue. because I don't

01:41:33.109 --> 01:41:36.430
have my goal. Yeah. Not for him, because he may

01:41:36.430 --> 01:41:38.810
have hope. It's just for me, I don't have my

01:41:38.810 --> 01:41:43.850
goal. I need to continue. Just if, if four continue,

01:41:44.090 --> 01:41:47.890
you need to have a good level for state. Okay,

01:41:47.970 --> 01:41:51.010
you need to go fast. And he go four times per

01:41:51.010 --> 01:41:53.689
week on the physiotherapist. Ah, yeah. If he

01:41:53.689 --> 01:41:57.109
go, he go, he make some, he create some exercise

01:41:57.109 --> 01:42:01.439
every week. Yeah, big focus because the goal

01:42:01.439 --> 01:42:06.720
is here. If you have some problem, if you say,

01:42:06.899 --> 01:42:10.039
okay, injury is complicated, check your goal,

01:42:10.119 --> 01:42:13.439
and normally you find the motivation. Or not.

01:42:13.699 --> 01:42:16.720
And if you don't have motivation, maybe it's

01:42:16.720 --> 01:42:19.520
not a good goal. Okay. What was the hardest injury

01:42:19.520 --> 01:42:24.159
for you? The hardest injury, it's my finger.

01:42:24.399 --> 01:42:27.850
All my finger. I know my finger heart breaks

01:42:27.850 --> 01:42:32.470
like a little bit here. Yeah, me too. I start

01:42:32.470 --> 01:42:40.170
with this injury when I have 70 years. All my

01:42:40.170 --> 01:42:42.149
finger heart breaks. I can't climb. I need to

01:42:42.149 --> 01:42:46.649
stop one year. I have 17. Not one year, like

01:42:46.649 --> 01:42:50.569
10 months. Because I can't take my class like

01:42:50.569 --> 01:42:55.100
that. Pool of holes. It's so complicated. And

01:42:55.100 --> 01:43:00.960
after 10 months, I know maybe my figure never

01:43:00.960 --> 01:43:04.899
changed. Now it's break. And I tread on my car

01:43:04.899 --> 01:43:09.939
with that. And that's the most hard part because

01:43:09.939 --> 01:43:12.699
not only my figure, a lot of part of my body,

01:43:12.760 --> 01:43:19.380
I have pain all the day. I pick, just I do that,

01:43:19.420 --> 01:43:21.899
I have pain. Oh, really? I touch like that, I

01:43:21.899 --> 01:43:25.710
have pain. a touch like that I have pain yeah

01:43:25.710 --> 01:43:30.529
is that all the time I put I should I want to

01:43:30.529 --> 01:43:33.430
take something in my car like that I have pain

01:43:33.430 --> 01:43:37.329
yeah that hurts and that's I think it's hard

01:43:37.329 --> 01:43:42.189
to start the beginning of your life with a break

01:43:42.189 --> 01:43:45.689
body and continue with that and try to find the

01:43:45.689 --> 01:43:51.989
solution to to continue and yeah okay No tips

01:43:51.989 --> 01:43:54.210
for not getting injured, I guess. Just how to

01:43:54.210 --> 01:43:57.210
push through the pain. No, no. Yes, we have the

01:43:57.210 --> 01:44:02.449
tips. There's the tips. It's very hard. It's

01:44:02.449 --> 01:44:06.949
to be good, to drink a lot of water. If you have

01:44:06.949 --> 01:44:13.789
a problem, go to the physio. Try to have a flexible

01:44:13.789 --> 01:44:24.359
body. Make a good warm -up all the time. And

01:44:24.359 --> 01:44:28.720
listen to your body. When you are tired, go to

01:44:28.720 --> 01:44:33.880
sleep. If you go to this weekend to party with

01:44:33.880 --> 01:44:36.640
your friends, take a three -day break. But because

01:44:36.640 --> 01:44:38.340
you need to train one day, you go one day. No.

01:44:39.539 --> 01:44:42.680
No, now you need to take a break. Just that.

01:44:42.739 --> 01:44:47.800
And if you do that, you can have a good career

01:44:47.800 --> 01:44:51.140
and no injury. Just sit down. It's hard to do

01:44:51.140 --> 01:44:54.560
that. It's a hard path. Yeah. Okay. Well, that's

01:44:54.560 --> 01:44:56.359
all the questions I had. Thank you for joining

01:44:56.359 --> 01:44:58.680
me today. Anything you want to shout out or let

01:44:58.680 --> 01:45:01.340
people know where they can find you? If you have

01:45:01.340 --> 01:45:03.760
any questions, Instagram, send me a message.

01:45:04.319 --> 01:45:08.199
I try to give a response to all people. And I

01:45:08.199 --> 01:45:11.720
give a response to all people if you need. Just

01:45:11.720 --> 01:45:14.840
send me a message on Instagram and for sure I

01:45:14.840 --> 01:45:19.050
can give you a response if I have. Okay. Awesome.

01:45:19.050 --> 01:45:20.930
Well, thank you again. It was amazing to talk

01:45:20.930 --> 01:45:23.890
to you. A big pleasure. Thank you for my experience.

01:45:24.229 --> 01:45:26.960
I like it. And enjoy Vegas. Thank you. Thank

01:45:26.960 --> 01:45:29.520
you so much for making it to the end of the podcast.

01:45:29.760 --> 01:45:32.300
Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed.

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Otherwise, you are a super fake climber. If you're

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listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate

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if you rate it five stars and you can continue

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the discussion on the free competition climbing

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discord linked in the description. Thanks again

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for listening.