Cover art for 10: Sam Watson, Future Olympian - USA Speed

11/27/23

10: Sam Watson, Future Olympian - USA Speed

Sam is only 17 years old, yet he has already won gold at a world cup, holds the speed climbing record in the US, and recently secured his Paris 2024 Olympic ticket at the PanAm Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll get more insight into speed climbing at the highest level, his experience at the PanAm Games, how he juggles personal life, school, and climbing, and we need your help in figuring out how he can up his social media game!

Cover art for 9: Campbell Harrison, Australian Lead Climber

11/13/23

9: Campbell Harrison, Australian Lead Climber

Campbell represents team Australia and is one of the Oceania region’s top competitors for moving onto the Olympics in the boulder and lead combined category. He also recently got elected to the IFSC athlete’s commission, so in this episode we’ll talk about causes he’d like to champion through that, what it’s like competing as an Australian, and he also opens up about his past struggles with eating disorders, as well as why he was partially missing in Olympic qualifiers in 2020.

Cover art for 8: Matt Groom, IFSC Commentator

10/30/23

8: Matt Groom, IFSC Commentator

Matt Groom is a freelance commentator best known for being the lead commentator at IFSC world cups. You may also find him hosting EpicTV Climbing Daily, writing for UKC, or commentating at other climbing competitions. There's a lot of talk online about Matt, and in this EXCLUSIVE interview we go over his response to criticism as well as his explanation for some of the mistakes caught on audio.

Cover art for 7: Zoe Spriggins, World Cup Organizer

10/16/23

7: Zoe Spriggins, World Cup Organizer

Zoe is a program manager for GB Climbing and is an expert in organizing and running climbing competitions! Her FIRST world cup event was Edinburgh 2022 and it was definitely…eventful. She also has experience organizing paraclimbing competitions and Bern world champs. There’s much more going on behind the scenes of climbing competitions than you’d expect, so tune in to learn more about what it takes!

Cover art for 6: Allegra Maguire, Climbing Psychologist

10/2/23

6: Allegra Maguire, Climbing Psychologist

Allegra is a Youtuber, mental climbing coach, and co-founder of ClimbInFlow, which provides services for climbing mind training. She has experience coaching all types of climbers, from beginners to world cup youth athletes. She recently came home from coaching at the youth world champs in Korea, where she helped Geila Macia Martin podium in boulder and lead! Allegra has also competed a bit herself, competing in Swedish Lead Championships after only 2 years of climbing.

Cover art for 5: Albert Ok, Speed Coach + Injury Collector

9/18/23

5: Albert Ok, Speed Coach + Injury Collector

You may have seen Albert's old viral Youtube videos where he does deep-dive analyses into great comp climbing beta-break moments. Nowadays, he is spending more time working on his own training to hopefully make the USA national team, as well as working as a speed climbing coach. You may know some of the athletes he works with, such as Grace Crowley and Sam Watson!

Cover art for 4: Grace Crowley, Speed Climber

9/4/23

4: Grace Crowley, Speed Climber

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Grace is a speed climber on the Australian team who only started climbing in late 2015 and has been competing in world cups since 2019 at the age of 15 (only 4 years of climbing before becoming world level?!?!). Grace is also open about sharing their experience being a non-binary athlete within competitive sports.

Cover art for 3: Jonathan Sin, Aspiring Pro Climber

8/21/23

3: Jonathan Sin, Aspiring Pro Climber

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may have seen a couple of Jonathan's viral Youtube videos lately, such as I trained like a pro climber for 6 months, where he opens up about his dream of becoming a professional competition climber and documents his journey of trying to make the Hong Kong national team. His effort is all the more impressive once you find out he only started climbing in 2019 and managed to send v11 after only 2 years.

Cover art for 2: Maya Witters, World Cup Judge

8/7/23

2: Maya Witters, World Cup Judge

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Maya is an outspoken IFSC volunteer + former world cup judge currently living in Japan who has helped out with world cups in Edinburgh, Morioka, and Hachioji. She has some great behind-the-scenes context into world cups, what team Japan is like behind the wall, and she has some spicy takes on the IFSC organization (even got blocked once by their social media)…

Cover art for 1: Niklas Wiechmann, parkour-style routesetter

7/22/23

1: Niklas Wiechmann, parkour-style routesetter

Thanks for tuning into the inaugural episode of the podcast! Niki is a routesetter with over 20 years of experience, setting for both commercial gyms and competitions. He’s known for setting “parkour-style” boulders that require creative movement rather than raw power. We’ll hear from him about what it’s like setting for world cup level climbers, how the IFSC chooses holds and setters, different competition formats, and how to improve the future of competition climbing. You can find the links below to follow along on his journey with BetaRoutesetting on Youtube or Instagram.