October 28
29: Sofya Yokoyama, Switzerland Boulderer & OG Youtuber
Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she’s part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it.
Show Notes
Guest links:
Reference links:
Timestamps
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Reflections on Prague WC
6:05 - Climbing + Competing start
7:58 - Worldwide childhood and origins of her accent
10:52 - Boulderer getting into lead training?
15:40 - The “no expectations” comp trick
19:55 - Slab is the enemy
22:10 - Being a short climber
26:08 - Training schedule
30:03 - Team Switzerland transformation
31:42 - Swiss athlete funding
35:23 - Money and YouTube
41:41 - Behind the scenes of Youtube
43:31 - Climbing with a weight vest controversy?
48:19 - Climbing, puberty, and eating disorders
54:47 - Bulking & cutting?
1:04:04 - The pro comp climbing dating scene
1:08:47 - Training with Nicolai
1:10:48 - Favorite hobby is…escape rooms?!
1:12:54 - Future goals & being born in the 1900s
1:18:55 - Shoutout from Tom Greenall
1:19:27 - Discord statement: calling Sofya by the wrong name
1:19:51 - Discord Q: Who’s your favorite YouTuber?
1:23:35 - Where to find Sofya
Full Transcript
Show transcript
00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:07,440
Yeah, I try looking a bit to the side to kind of see what the boulders look like and to see
00:00:07,440 --> 00:00:09,960
potential methods.
00:00:09,960 --> 00:00:14,400
I mean, this is only for like these next couple of years, but we might need to pay ourselves
00:00:14,400 --> 00:00:18,840
because the budget has been reduced.
00:00:18,840 --> 00:00:23,080
Around me, I heard a lot of, be careful, you don't want to put on too much weight, it's
00:00:23,080 --> 00:00:24,740
going to affect your climbing.
00:00:24,740 --> 00:00:29,340
That's when I was like, oh my gosh, I'm putting on weight.
00:00:29,340 --> 00:00:31,880
I loved One Direction, loved them.
00:00:31,880 --> 00:00:35,920
And someone commented, Harry Styles was in One Direction?
00:00:35,920 --> 00:00:40,520
I was like, excuse me?
00:00:40,520 --> 00:00:44,000
How do you not know that?
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Welcome to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast.
00:00:47,600 --> 00:00:53,280
I'm your host Jinni and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today, Sofya Yokoyama.
00:00:53,280 --> 00:00:59,880
Sofya is a boulder on Team Switzerland and she's part of the wave of OG climbing YouTubers.
00:00:59,880 --> 00:01:05,560
In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague.
00:01:05,560 --> 00:01:10,960
We get some insight into Team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues.
00:01:10,960 --> 00:01:15,520
And she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame
00:01:15,520 --> 00:01:16,520
it.
00:01:16,520 --> 00:01:27,400
So, I hope you enjoy this episode with Sofya.
00:01:27,400 --> 00:01:30,280
We'll start slowly into it.
00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:34,720
You just got back from Prague, so that's probably fresh in your mind.
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So any thoughts about how the Prague World Cup went?
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Yeah, no, so Prague was really fun.
00:01:45,000 --> 00:01:50,720
The semis round didn't really go as I had hoped.
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So I guess the general coming out of the comp was a bit frustrating, a bit sad.
00:01:57,720 --> 00:02:04,160
But now that I've had a couple of days to just reflect and think about it, now I'm like,
00:02:04,160 --> 00:02:06,400
okay, well, it's been a good season.
00:02:06,400 --> 00:02:09,480
I've had fun training and traveling with the team.
00:02:09,480 --> 00:02:10,880
It's been cool.
00:02:10,880 --> 00:02:14,760
And this has been the best season of my career.
00:02:14,760 --> 00:02:20,320
So it's a lot more positive than just unfortunately this bad semis.
00:02:20,320 --> 00:02:22,520
Well, you still have another chance to.
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Yep.
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Yep.
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I leave for Seoul tomorrow.
00:02:26,240 --> 00:02:27,240
Exciting.
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Yeah, the semis boulders looked really hard.
00:02:31,080 --> 00:02:36,800
Did you have an idea going into or not going into it, but while you were climbing that
00:02:36,800 --> 00:02:38,560
it was a low scoring round?
00:02:38,560 --> 00:02:41,760
Or did you kind of feel like you were the only one who was struggling and then it like
00:02:41,760 --> 00:02:43,000
kind of got in your head?
00:02:43,000 --> 00:02:49,160
Yeah, you can already kind of guess how the round is going when you're in ISO because
00:02:49,160 --> 00:02:53,640
you know, like if athletes come back early, then you're like, okay, this boulder they've
00:02:53,640 --> 00:02:55,000
done.
00:02:55,000 --> 00:02:57,760
And then if a lot of people are coming back early, then you're like, okay, so there's
00:02:57,760 --> 00:02:59,000
quite a lot of tops.
00:02:59,000 --> 00:03:04,720
And when I was in ISO, there weren't that many people coming back.
00:03:04,720 --> 00:03:09,880
So I was like, okay, this is a hard round, but just anything is possible.
00:03:09,880 --> 00:03:12,720
Just stay focused, try hard.
00:03:12,720 --> 00:03:18,280
And then unfortunately, when I got out onto the first boulder, I just had the wrong method.
00:03:18,280 --> 00:03:23,320
And I knew that this was possible and I knew that I could do it.
00:03:23,320 --> 00:03:29,040
So already the fact that I didn't, it was kind of like, okay, another three hard boulders
00:03:29,040 --> 00:03:31,120
to come.
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And so it's kind of hard to then tell yourself, okay, but I can do it.
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It's possible.
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Just stay focused and try as hard as you can on these boulders.
00:03:41,400 --> 00:03:47,480
So I feel like I did manage that quite well until after the third boulder where I didn't
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get the zone, I was like, okay, no one's doing the slab.
00:03:50,960 --> 00:03:53,040
So I think this is over anyways.
00:03:53,040 --> 00:03:54,040
Okay.
00:03:54,040 --> 00:04:00,400
So you kind of felt like defeated going into it after the first one a bit?
00:04:00,400 --> 00:04:06,680
Yeah, after the first boulder, I was like, this is not the great start to a semis round
00:04:06,680 --> 00:04:08,840
or semis I would have hoped.
00:04:08,840 --> 00:04:11,160
But things can still change.
00:04:11,160 --> 00:04:15,080
So for now, stay focused and stay in it.
00:04:15,080 --> 00:04:20,800
So do you kind of sneak a peek at how other people are doing on the climbs before or after
00:04:20,800 --> 00:04:21,800
you?
00:04:21,800 --> 00:04:27,640
Yeah, I try looking a bit to the side to kind of see what the boulders look like and to
00:04:27,640 --> 00:04:33,880
see potential methods.
00:04:33,880 --> 00:04:37,680
Since now they kind of spread the boulders out quite a bit, you can't really look too
00:04:37,680 --> 00:04:48,720
far ahead, but yeah, every now and then when I'm like resting between attempts on a boulder,
00:04:48,720 --> 00:04:52,120
I just like step back and look up into the side.
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Yeah, do you ever look like back at boulders you've done to see if other people are doing
00:04:58,800 --> 00:05:02,680
them or is that like too mentally terrible?
00:05:02,680 --> 00:05:09,880
Yeah, so usually I don't, but when I was on the second boulder in the semis round in Prague,
00:05:09,880 --> 00:05:13,640
my teammate was climbing on the first boulder.
00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:15,520
And so she was doing so well.
00:05:15,520 --> 00:05:20,080
So I was like looking at her and I'm like, come on, like getting like psyched for her
00:05:20,080 --> 00:05:21,080
at the same time.
00:05:21,080 --> 00:05:26,240
Like, oh, shoot, I need to focus on my boulder and climb on my boulder.
00:05:26,240 --> 00:05:29,800
But usually I can separate but since it was just my teammate and she was doing well, I
00:05:29,800 --> 00:05:32,840
was like, yes.
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So it was more excitement for her rather than, oh, that was how I was supposed to do it.
00:05:38,320 --> 00:05:39,960
I mean, there was also a bit of that.
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I'm like, oh, I just spent five minutes trying one method and if I had just changed hands,
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things could have gone differently, but yeah.
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Okay.
00:05:49,680 --> 00:05:51,880
Well, I hope that soul goes well for you.
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It's still great that you made semis again.
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That's it.
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Yeah.
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Very consistent in that, which is good.
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Yeah.
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I think the years before, at least consistency is here this year.
00:06:04,000 --> 00:06:05,000
Yeah.
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Consistency is great.
00:06:06,000 --> 00:06:07,000
Okay.
00:06:07,000 --> 00:06:11,520
So let's get into how you started climbing and competing.
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Yeah.
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So I started when I was around seven.
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My parents always were like, oh yeah, maybe either if you want to do a sport or an instrument,
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but they always wanted me and my brother to have another activity besides school.
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And so I was trying many different sports when I was younger and it was really climbing
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that for some reason stuck and I enjoyed it the most.
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And so it got a bit more serious when I came back to Switzerland.
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I joined the competition team and then just gradually started training a bit more and
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did more comps, joined the Swiss team and still doing it now.
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When was your first competition, if you remember?
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Officially, it was when I was living in Singapore.
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Oh, I didn't know you were living in Singapore.
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Yeah.
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I lived there between nine and 12.
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Wow.
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Yeah.
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I had three years in Singapore and at school they had like this crazy cool climbing wall
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and the coach there, he was like, oh, you should do comps.
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There's some cool fun comps in Singapore going on.
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And so that's where I started.
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And then I was, yeah, I think I was like, yeah, 10, 11-ish.
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It was just for fun at that time.
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But it was when I came back to Switzerland where it got more serious and I joined the
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national team and did national comps, international comps.
00:07:40,480 --> 00:07:41,480
Cool.
00:07:41,480 --> 00:07:47,560
Well, I mean, we've got some Singapore viewers and I had also just interviewed a couple other
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people from Singapore.
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Oh, cool.
00:07:49,560 --> 00:07:52,360
So I'm sure they'll be glad to know that.
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So you moved around like a bunch then, I guess.
00:07:55,560 --> 00:07:56,560
Yeah.
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I've moved quite a bit.
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Was there anywhere else that you had lived?
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I was also in England for a couple of years.
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I didn't compete.
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I mean, I was born in Switzerland and then around three I moved to England, so I wasn't
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climbing at that time.
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And then came back to Switzerland, but in the French pot and then moved to Singapore
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and then came back to Switzerland since.
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But there was a phase, I think when I got back to Switzerland around 14, 15, where I
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was like doing comps in England and in Switzerland to see which national team I could join.
00:08:37,480 --> 00:08:39,200
Oh, really?
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But yeah, since I was living in Switzerland, I ended up staying with the Swiss team.
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Okay.
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So you were like trying out for, or I guess it's not tryouts, but maybe like trials or
00:08:50,320 --> 00:08:52,680
something like that to join a national team?
00:08:52,680 --> 00:08:59,400
Yeah, I think you do the national comps and then depending on your results, you get a
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team offer.
00:09:00,400 --> 00:09:01,400
Okay.
00:09:01,400 --> 00:09:02,880
So the Switzerland one came first.
00:09:02,880 --> 00:09:03,880
Yeah.
00:09:03,880 --> 00:09:06,760
So yeah, you moved around a bunch.
00:09:06,760 --> 00:09:09,680
So I know you mentioned people always wonder where your accent is from.
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Is that how it came about?
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It's just a mix of a bunch of different places.
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Yeah.
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When I was younger, I had my mum's British accent.
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But then, yeah, with moving around so much, there was a phase where I just had a full-on
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American accent.
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And now, yeah, I don't know, it just switched so much.
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And then now it kind of went back to just normal British, but then with also some American
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towns.
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In Singapore, it was the French school, but it was international.
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So a lot of it was like American.
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And that's where the American accent came out.
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So I think it was just hanging around with a lot of American English speakers.
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And I got influenced.
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Yeah, makes sense.
00:10:05,800 --> 00:10:12,360
No, I recently learned I got fed a bunch of TikToks that was like, oh, there's an international
00:10:12,360 --> 00:10:14,400
school accent.
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So I was wondering if that's kind of what it was.
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But maybe it's a little different.
00:10:17,560 --> 00:10:21,960
Yeah, I think it's more like the people who I'm hanging out with.
00:10:21,960 --> 00:10:27,080
Our coach on the Swiss team is Australian, and we hang out with Oceana Mackenzie a lot.
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So sometimes I feel like I've got an Australian wang to real world.
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Yeah, sometimes I'm worried when I talk to someone with an accent that I'll start imitating
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them but in like, not a cool way.
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Yeah, I don't know why it switches.
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Yeah, thankfully it doesn't happen to me too much.
00:10:52,800 --> 00:10:58,960
So I think I saw you post, I forget if it was like a story or a post, but it looks like
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you've been doing a little bit more lead lately.
00:11:01,400 --> 00:11:05,960
Why did you not get into it before?
00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:08,500
And why are you doing it now?
00:11:08,500 --> 00:11:14,200
So yeah, I guess the big question two years ago was to try for the Olympics and whether
00:11:14,200 --> 00:11:21,880
I wanted to focus also on the lead discipline, considering that like my main and favorite
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discipline is bouldering.
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And I had like a long talk with the coaches.
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And since my, at least last year, my bouldering was really not at the level I wanted it to
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be at.
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If I like taking some of my bordering energy, moving it into lead and losing like a bit
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more focus on like losing that bordering focus to put onto lead, it, yeah, I wouldn't have
00:11:51,240 --> 00:11:56,240
progressed as much in bouldering and then I might not have even gotten that good in lead.
00:11:56,240 --> 00:12:01,680
So it would have been like a lot of training, a lot of trying mix match, see what works
00:12:01,680 --> 00:12:06,600
best and potentially not like gaining in anything.
00:12:06,600 --> 00:12:12,360
So the final conclusion was like, okay, I'm just going to focus this year on bordering,
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really to get as strong as I can.
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Especially like now you need to be so good in bordering and lead to just like get a decent
00:12:23,200 --> 00:12:30,320
ish result, so I'm happy I stuck to my like focus on bordering decision.
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But yeah, recently we had the Swiss lead cup and in our Swiss contract, we need to participate
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in two disciplines, even though I'm just a boarder.
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And so I was like, okay, well, I'm home.
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There's a lead comp this weekend.
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May as well go for it.
00:12:48,260 --> 00:12:49,560
And it went so well.
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Like honestly, I don't think I've climbed that good in lead my whole life.
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And so I was like, you know, maybe I will come back doing some lead.
00:13:00,520 --> 00:13:01,880
Who knows?
00:13:01,880 --> 00:13:02,880
Okay.
00:13:02,880 --> 00:13:08,600
Well, I mean, as far as like the Olympics, I guess they might split it out.
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So do you want to just do lead comps or like, this is still like an Olympic hopeful kind
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of thing?
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I guess in LA they don't split it.
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I will probably try now that I saw lead didn't go too bad.
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But if they do split it, I don't think I'll really focus on lead.
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Yeah, that makes sense.
00:13:35,080 --> 00:13:39,920
Yeah, I think I'll just do bordering unless like I have maybe an outdoor lead project,
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but there's enough bordering projects I have to focus on before going to lead.
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Why do you think you did well in lead?
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Like you weren't training it at all?
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No, so I have a really good theory.
00:13:54,560 --> 00:14:02,400
I remember when I was training lead, I was like, yeah, I was focused.
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I knew I was training lead.
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I knew that I could do well.
00:14:06,880 --> 00:14:12,240
And I guess the stress of the comp, I couldn't really handle it as well because I'm like,
00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:13,840
there's only one attempt.
00:14:13,840 --> 00:14:15,840
I need to climb perfectly.
00:14:15,840 --> 00:14:22,160
I need to really focus and like there were a lot of things that I was thinking of for
00:14:22,160 --> 00:14:24,880
it to go well.
00:14:24,880 --> 00:14:29,480
And now this comp, I was like, okay, look, I haven't done lead in a long time.
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I feel great in bordering.
00:14:31,760 --> 00:14:37,040
I guess the moves in lead aren't as hard.
00:14:37,040 --> 00:14:42,520
So I could technically do all the moves on the lead wall.
00:14:42,520 --> 00:14:46,560
And so all I need to do since I don't have endurance is climb fast and efficiently.
00:14:46,560 --> 00:14:50,320
And so I was like, okay, well, let's see how fast I can climb.
00:14:50,320 --> 00:14:55,480
And I was just like really in a chill mood, here to have fun, confident in my bordering
00:14:55,480 --> 00:14:59,680
skills that I could like hold all the holds and do all the moves.
00:14:59,680 --> 00:15:05,200
So then all I just needed to do was hold on long enough to get as high as possible.
00:15:05,200 --> 00:15:07,480
Yeah, I hear a lot of boulders do that.
00:15:07,480 --> 00:15:10,160
Just like go up as fast as they can.
00:15:10,160 --> 00:15:11,160
Not even rest really.
00:15:11,160 --> 00:15:19,280
Yeah, like there's no point of me really shaking out because my other arm gets pumped anyways.
00:15:19,280 --> 00:15:21,320
So I'm just like, okay, talk.
00:15:21,320 --> 00:15:23,040
Okay, fast talk.
00:15:23,040 --> 00:15:25,760
Okay, fast talk.
00:15:25,760 --> 00:15:31,440
I don't know if that'll work when you actually want to get into lead competitions, but.
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I received a lot of messages afterwards.
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It's like, it's just the first comp always goes well.
00:15:37,880 --> 00:15:41,720
And then once you start training it, it's downhill from there.
00:15:41,720 --> 00:15:46,720
I feel like there's also a lot of, so like I've talked to a few people now.
00:15:46,720 --> 00:15:48,360
I've interviewed like a few athletes.
00:15:48,360 --> 00:15:54,640
It seems like a lot of times they have like a great comp and they say it's because they
00:15:54,640 --> 00:15:57,640
went in with no expectations.
00:15:57,640 --> 00:15:59,720
And then I guess they had a good result.
00:15:59,720 --> 00:16:02,800
And so then it's like in their head about it.
00:16:02,800 --> 00:16:06,600
And then it just goes downhill from there.
00:16:06,600 --> 00:16:09,000
Do you feel like that's kind of the case?
00:16:09,000 --> 00:16:16,520
Yeah, there's many times when I've been sick before a comp or like I got a cold and I wasn't
00:16:16,520 --> 00:16:18,800
necessarily feeling in the best shape.
00:16:18,800 --> 00:16:24,720
And then like this was national level and then I came out winning the comp or doing
00:16:24,720 --> 00:16:26,560
like a really good result and climbing great.
00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:33,440
And I think it's yeah, heading into the competition where you're like, okay, there's no expectations
00:16:33,440 --> 00:16:34,440
here.
00:16:34,440 --> 00:16:35,960
I've been sick the past week.
00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:39,760
It's just really to go out and climb as good as I can.
00:16:39,760 --> 00:16:41,840
And that's it.
00:16:41,840 --> 00:16:46,960
But yeah, once you start getting the results and you're like, okay, I can do this.
00:16:46,960 --> 00:16:48,160
It goes well.
00:16:48,160 --> 00:16:53,680
That's when in your head, it's like, it's not like I can do this, but it's like, I have
00:16:53,680 --> 00:16:56,200
to do this.
00:16:56,200 --> 00:17:03,600
And the like that switch in I can to I have where like you're, you have to force yourself
00:17:03,600 --> 00:17:04,600
to do something.
00:17:04,600 --> 00:17:07,520
And then when it's a bit of a downhill drop.
00:17:07,520 --> 00:17:08,520
Yeah.
00:17:08,520 --> 00:17:09,520
How do you?
00:17:09,520 --> 00:17:10,520
I don't know.
00:17:10,520 --> 00:17:16,480
How do you like artificially create a lack of expectations?
00:17:16,480 --> 00:17:23,840
So what I've been doing recently or like this past year is more like not necessarily having
00:17:23,840 --> 00:17:31,920
like lowering my expectations, but just like it's so hard to explain.
00:17:31,920 --> 00:17:37,680
Like heading into the comp, I guess, partly feeling confident in the training that you've
00:17:37,680 --> 00:17:38,680
done.
00:17:38,680 --> 00:17:45,160
And at the same time, like Prague, Prague, I guess, is one of the conflict didn't go
00:17:45,160 --> 00:17:47,680
as well because for me, I was like heading into Prague.
00:17:47,680 --> 00:17:54,640
I'm like, okay, I can definitely make finals.
00:17:54,640 --> 00:17:57,840
But in my head is like, okay, I'm here to make finals.
00:17:57,840 --> 00:18:01,960
And it's not like I was already thinking of the next step instead of like staying in semis
00:18:01,960 --> 00:18:04,320
like, okay, I'm in semis now.
00:18:04,320 --> 00:18:06,280
Let's focus on each border one at a time.
00:18:06,280 --> 00:18:08,880
I was like, okay, finals is doable.
00:18:08,880 --> 00:18:09,880
I can get into this.
00:18:09,880 --> 00:18:11,080
I can do this.
00:18:11,080 --> 00:18:12,080
Sometimes it through some people.
00:18:12,080 --> 00:18:13,080
It does work.
00:18:13,080 --> 00:18:18,920
But for me, I think it was more like, ah, okay, since I screwed up the first border,
00:18:18,920 --> 00:18:21,280
I'm like, ah, that's it.
00:18:21,280 --> 00:18:22,280
Like my round is over.
00:18:22,280 --> 00:18:23,280
Okay.
00:18:23,280 --> 00:18:24,760
Even though you don't know what's going to happen.
00:18:24,760 --> 00:18:25,760
Yeah.
00:18:25,760 --> 00:18:33,320
So I guess for Seoul, I'm just going to like qualities have been going well.
00:18:33,320 --> 00:18:38,200
So I just go into qualities, climb hard.
00:18:38,200 --> 00:18:43,320
There's a few things that I like think of, like, try to think of new methods, try new
00:18:43,320 --> 00:18:44,320
things.
00:18:44,320 --> 00:18:50,060
Don't be scared to like do crazy stuff.
00:18:50,060 --> 00:18:53,200
And try to just continue in that path with semis.
00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:55,680
Yeah, I think that makes sense.
00:18:55,680 --> 00:19:02,000
So kind of like not really going into it with a specific goal, maybe to like make finals
00:19:02,000 --> 00:19:03,800
or semis.
00:19:03,800 --> 00:19:09,520
Not focused too much on results, but more focused on like small things that you can
00:19:09,520 --> 00:19:10,520
work on.
00:19:10,520 --> 00:19:17,040
So like for me, it's trying new things in borders instead of like trying one method.
00:19:17,040 --> 00:19:20,800
If you're hesitating on another method, just try it.
00:19:20,800 --> 00:19:27,480
Also like, of course, try hard because yeah, the borders aren't easy.
00:19:27,480 --> 00:19:29,080
So you need to like commit.
00:19:29,080 --> 00:19:34,520
And usually my first attempts are a bit like, I'm just going to climb and see how it feels.
00:19:34,520 --> 00:19:41,040
So here it's more like first attempt, it's send or change method.
00:19:41,040 --> 00:19:50,760
And then also for me, it's like I get very, not anxious, but like wanting to give a lot
00:19:50,760 --> 00:19:52,160
of attempts and try a lot of things.
00:19:52,160 --> 00:19:57,320
So it's more like patience, breathe, especially on slabs.
00:19:57,320 --> 00:19:59,560
Do you dislike slabs?
00:19:59,560 --> 00:20:02,560
Slabs dislike me.
00:20:02,560 --> 00:20:06,380
Okay, gotcha.
00:20:06,380 --> 00:20:11,320
I really try to like slabs, but I can never, no, not never, because I have sent slabs and
00:20:11,320 --> 00:20:18,400
cons, but I just as even, I train them and I don't feel like I'm getting anywhere compared
00:20:18,400 --> 00:20:22,680
to like if I train strength, I can do a one on pull ups.
00:20:22,680 --> 00:20:28,160
I can see I'm progressing, but on slabs, you can train slabs as much as you like, but foot
00:20:28,160 --> 00:20:31,840
slip, can't do this, can't do that.
00:20:31,840 --> 00:20:34,440
Have you done the thing?
00:20:34,440 --> 00:20:37,680
Well, so I was also really bad at slab.
00:20:37,680 --> 00:20:43,160
I mean, I'm certainly still like not great at slab, especially compared to like pro athletes.
00:20:43,160 --> 00:20:48,680
But the one thing that actually worked for me that I thought was like some woo woo bullshit
00:20:48,680 --> 00:20:55,480
was like before getting on the slab, instead of saying I'm bad at slab, I would just be
00:20:55,480 --> 00:20:58,440
like, I'm really good at slab, I can do this.
00:20:58,440 --> 00:21:00,440
And then it actually kept working.
00:21:00,440 --> 00:21:04,960
And so I was like, oh, maybe this works.
00:21:04,960 --> 00:21:11,160
So then I try to do that when I do slab, but it helped for me, I think.
00:21:11,160 --> 00:21:16,640
Yeah, I think there's a lot of like trying to gaslight yourself.
00:21:16,640 --> 00:21:17,640
Yeah.
00:21:17,640 --> 00:21:22,320
Like, yeah, that's something where, and I definitely feel it if I go into an overhang
00:21:22,320 --> 00:21:26,820
border, I'm like, confident, I'm like, I'm gonna send this.
00:21:26,820 --> 00:21:32,200
And then when you go to the slab, it's like, okay, it's a slab, I gotta be careful, I gotta
00:21:32,200 --> 00:21:35,360
think I gotta, and I think it's yeah, trying to erase those thoughts.
00:21:35,360 --> 00:21:38,000
It's like, okay, now, this is a slab, I can do a slab.
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:40,480
It's the same thing for me with toe hooks.
00:21:40,480 --> 00:21:41,480
Yeah.
00:21:41,480 --> 00:21:42,480
Yeah.
00:21:42,480 --> 00:21:44,600
I'm not great at toe hooks.
00:21:44,600 --> 00:21:48,920
And so every time I see a toe hook, there's like that toe hooks, but now I'm trying to
00:21:48,920 --> 00:21:52,280
be like, ah, toe hooks, dang.
00:21:52,280 --> 00:21:53,280
Yeah.
00:21:53,280 --> 00:21:54,280
Has it helped at all?
00:21:54,280 --> 00:21:55,280
No, not really.
00:21:55,280 --> 00:21:56,280
Okay.
00:21:56,280 --> 00:22:03,040
But I will continue, I will continue trying, especially if you send you feel it, I will.
00:22:03,040 --> 00:22:04,040
There's hope.
00:22:04,040 --> 00:22:06,040
Yeah, it worked for me.
00:22:06,040 --> 00:22:11,800
Maybe I just got lucky, but I'm not gonna think about it until next time.
00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:16,720
So being one of the shorter athletes, do you feel like it hinders you during World Cups
00:22:16,720 --> 00:22:18,280
or does it help?
00:22:18,280 --> 00:22:24,200
Yes, this is a big discussion, especially I've been seeing a few like videos after
00:22:24,200 --> 00:22:26,440
the Olympics on iMori.
00:22:26,440 --> 00:22:30,080
Yeah, there's a lot.
00:22:30,080 --> 00:22:36,600
I think, so I'm like 156, 157, something like that.
00:22:36,600 --> 00:22:44,920
So I am like one of the shorter climbers on the circuit, but I do try to take a step back
00:22:44,920 --> 00:22:49,720
and be like, okay, yes, if I was maybe five, 10 centimeters taller, this move could be
00:22:49,720 --> 00:22:51,280
easier.
00:22:51,280 --> 00:22:59,400
But powerful movements, you can work on explosivity, crimps, you can work on finger strength.
00:22:59,400 --> 00:23:04,820
You just have to unfortunately be that much stronger than the other climbers.
00:23:04,820 --> 00:23:09,800
So I always try to take a step back and be like, okay, well, if I'm short, then I can
00:23:09,800 --> 00:23:16,320
compensate by being so much stronger in these areas.
00:23:16,320 --> 00:23:21,960
And yes, that's what I've been working on, like finger strength, explosivity, power,
00:23:21,960 --> 00:23:29,640
like all those things I can work on because unfortunately height, I can't grow anymore.
00:23:29,640 --> 00:23:34,600
Do you ever come across a move where you're like, oh, my height really helps me here?
00:23:34,600 --> 00:23:41,880
Yes, a lot of like, it doesn't happen often, but a lot of like tight, box, small, uncomfortable
00:23:41,880 --> 00:23:49,680
moves. For me, being short is great because I can just like get in there and be like,
00:23:49,680 --> 00:23:51,280
I'm so comfortable.
00:23:51,280 --> 00:23:55,440
And then you have my teammates who are a bit taller and they're like, oh, this was really
00:23:55,440 --> 00:23:59,840
tight and I couldn't feel good. And I was like, I feel great.
00:23:59,840 --> 00:24:01,240
Okay, perfect.
00:24:01,240 --> 00:24:10,120
But on the comp circuit, it's rare or like there are sometimes moves like those, but
00:24:10,120 --> 00:24:14,480
it's more rare than seeing moves where it's like, okay, if I was a bit taller, that would
00:24:14,480 --> 00:24:16,600
have been easier.
00:24:16,600 --> 00:24:21,920
Because of just like, is it usually the coordination stuff or like the dinos that you feel like
00:24:21,920 --> 00:24:22,920
you're too short?
00:24:22,920 --> 00:24:29,880
Yeah, a lot of it is coordination. But I think now, like if it's straight up coordination,
00:24:29,880 --> 00:24:37,580
for sure. Like every time I see a straight up jump, I'm like, they have enough experience
00:24:37,580 --> 00:24:43,800
to set something other than straight up. But sometimes it's also like, when there's toe
00:24:43,800 --> 00:24:49,440
hooks, it's usually like really stretched out positions. And so since toe hooks aren't
00:24:49,440 --> 00:24:55,600
my strong suit, I'm also like, if I was just a bit taller, my toe hook would fit in there
00:24:55,600 --> 00:25:01,480
so much better. Yeah, so it really depends. But a lot of it is more like, yeah, coordination
00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:03,400
and usually toe hooks.
00:25:03,400 --> 00:25:09,400
Well, so I feel like I have the opposite issue with toe hooks. So I'm like, if I'm shorter,
00:25:09,400 --> 00:25:15,120
then my leg would just be straight and it would be fine and I would reach or not reach.
00:25:15,120 --> 00:25:22,400
But like, I wouldn't have to like, twist myself in such a weird way to like, hold the toe
00:25:22,400 --> 00:25:23,400
hook.
00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:29,400
Yeah, that for sure. Like there's some point sometimes where if you have a toes close,
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:36,720
this toe hook shorter is for sure better. But for me, it's usually like getting into
00:25:36,720 --> 00:25:40,920
the toe hook position. Like you usually have to like kind of jump in and then that it's
00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:45,640
always like, I'm always limit, like my foot always arrives at the very tip of my toe hook.
00:25:45,640 --> 00:25:49,960
And I'm like, I have to squeeze so hard to be able to get the second one and then I have
00:25:49,960 --> 00:25:54,760
to like be able to get it a bit higher. And so there's like 20 seconds of work before
00:25:54,760 --> 00:26:00,920
actually getting into the stop position, which is kind of that point for me. But yeah, if
00:26:00,920 --> 00:26:03,360
the toe hook is close, I'm like, easy.
00:26:03,360 --> 00:26:09,200
Okay. Well, we can all just agree that toe hooks are really bad and you can hate them.
00:26:09,200 --> 00:26:15,520
Okay. So what does your training look like at the moment? Or I guess not at the moment
00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:20,800
because you're in competition season, but last competition or last training season or
00:26:20,800 --> 00:26:22,320
like upcoming?
00:26:22,320 --> 00:26:33,680
So during the like winter phase, pre-comp pre-season, it's quite, there's a lot going
00:26:33,680 --> 00:26:40,600
on. So we kind of like with my coach, we kind of focus on all the things that not necessarily
00:26:40,600 --> 00:26:46,420
went wrong in the comp season, but that could go better and how to work on those things.
00:26:46,420 --> 00:26:51,560
So if it's yeah, toe hooks, then there's going to be toe hook training, but it's going to
00:26:51,560 --> 00:26:56,160
be like, okay, there's going to be more fitness training, maybe some more finger strength
00:26:56,160 --> 00:27:01,480
training because I feel like my finger strength could be better. There's also going to be
00:27:01,480 --> 00:27:09,200
some like climbing exercises on the wall for like body tension. Also for just like, yeah,
00:27:09,200 --> 00:27:16,320
just physical wall exercises. There's a lot going on, a lot of intense stuff. I think
00:27:16,320 --> 00:27:22,560
I like climb, yeah, four or five times a week with two gym sessions and two fingerboard
00:27:22,560 --> 00:27:31,640
sessions, a bit of camp sing, some hard boulders, some comp boulders, some wall training.
00:27:31,640 --> 00:27:37,000
And is this all by yourself or do you train with the Switzerland team much?
00:27:37,000 --> 00:27:44,720
So right now I'm between Austria and Switzerland because my boyfriend, he's on the Austrian
00:27:44,720 --> 00:27:52,000
team. So I'm in Innsbruck a lot training with them. And then I also, when I head home,
00:27:52,000 --> 00:27:57,800
also like train with the Swiss team. So I'm rarely ever alone.
00:27:57,800 --> 00:28:04,240
And so like when you're training with teams, is it like a specified thing where they're
00:28:04,240 --> 00:28:08,600
like, we want everyone to be together and we all want to train together or is it just
00:28:08,600 --> 00:28:14,760
like since you know them, you're friends with them, they like climb at a similar level,
00:28:14,760 --> 00:28:16,520
then you just train together.
00:28:16,520 --> 00:28:23,680
Yeah. So for the Austrian team, it's like, I really had to, usually it's like the Austrian
00:28:23,680 --> 00:28:29,560
team, they train together and they have like these training days. And so I like with my
00:28:29,560 --> 00:28:34,080
coach, we like asked them if it was okay if I like train with them, if I joined their
00:28:34,080 --> 00:28:39,680
team sessions and all of that. Cause usually they close like the training room for when
00:28:39,680 --> 00:28:44,720
they have team sessions. But since I also knew like a lot of the female athletes on
00:28:44,720 --> 00:28:52,320
the Austrian team, they were all like welcoming and motivated for me to join. And they were
00:28:52,320 --> 00:28:58,480
like, yeah, it'll be great if so if you train with us, we'd love it. And so, yeah, it was
00:28:58,480 --> 00:29:03,720
a bit of both. It was me knowing a lot of the athletes on the team and asking if it's
00:29:03,720 --> 00:29:09,640
okay if I joined, but at the same time they have these times where they train all together.
00:29:09,640 --> 00:29:15,520
It's like kind of not secretive, but like closed off because it's like secret national
00:29:15,520 --> 00:29:22,160
team things. Yeah. Yeah. But interesting. Like for our team center, like I guess the
00:29:22,160 --> 00:29:29,920
difference is that our team's training center isn't in a public gym. So no one really, other
00:29:29,920 --> 00:29:36,080
teams don't really know much about it, where it is, when our team sessions are and stuff
00:29:36,080 --> 00:29:40,480
compared to the Austrian team where their team training center isn't the biggest gym
00:29:40,480 --> 00:29:46,760
in the world. So for us it's okay, well, if someone does want to join, they have to know
00:29:46,760 --> 00:29:55,640
someone in the team and ask. And then we send them the address and then they can join. But
00:29:55,640 --> 00:29:59,360
it's also like, yeah, on Mondays we have team training from this time to this time. Let
00:29:59,360 --> 00:30:05,000
me know if you want to join and if you can or not. And it's like that three, four times
00:30:05,000 --> 00:30:06,000
a week.
00:30:06,000 --> 00:30:11,000
How do you feel like the Switzerland team has transformed throughout the years?
00:30:11,000 --> 00:30:16,200
So there's been a huge transformation and very much on the positive side. Before our
00:30:16,200 --> 00:30:24,400
team training center, I don't know how old our training center is. I think maybe four
00:30:24,400 --> 00:30:32,040
years now. But before that, maybe it's older, I don't really remember. But before that everyone
00:30:32,040 --> 00:30:37,820
was kind of just like training in different areas in Switzerland. And we'd only ever see
00:30:37,820 --> 00:30:44,720
each other when we'd like travel to comps and it comes together. So we weren't as close.
00:30:44,720 --> 00:30:51,840
Like yeah, I didn't really know everyone as well. I just saw them at the comps and we'd
00:30:51,840 --> 00:30:58,000
just hang out because we were kind of just there. But with the team training center coming
00:30:58,000 --> 00:31:05,400
into place and the team organizing team sessions and everyone going there weekly, we kind of
00:31:05,400 --> 00:31:15,920
got closer and now it feels much more like a family than just colleagues. And so yeah,
00:31:15,920 --> 00:31:20,560
there's been a lot of growth on that side. And I feel like if you have a good environment
00:31:20,560 --> 00:31:26,720
with the team, then also comps and training is they just go better in general.
00:31:26,720 --> 00:31:31,720
Yeah, that makes sense. Yeah, it seems like having a national training center helps a
00:31:31,720 --> 00:31:37,240
lot. And then just having like other strong climbers around to like motivate you helps
00:31:37,240 --> 00:31:44,800
a lot. Yeah. Yeah. Climbing with stronger climbers is always as you can do. Yeah, I
00:31:44,800 --> 00:31:51,800
agree with that. And yeah, I guess another thing that helps, I know a lot of climbers
00:31:51,800 --> 00:31:57,060
on the circuit need to take on other jobs to fund their climbing. Does Switzerland give
00:31:57,060 --> 00:32:01,880
athletes a stipend? Please excuse this brief intermission, but if you're interested in
00:32:01,880 --> 00:32:07,140
deleted scenes from this episode where we talk about the difference between making semis
00:32:07,140 --> 00:32:12,880
versus finals, and what her hopes were going into the Seoul World Cup before she unfortunately
00:32:12,880 --> 00:32:19,320
had to cancel her trip, do consider helping support this podcast on Patreon. Some other
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00:32:43,400 --> 00:32:51,680
Yeah, so we quite lucky that if we're selected for the comps, the hotel and the flights are
00:32:51,680 --> 00:33:04,360
financed. We just have to pay for food once we're at the comp, which I mean, is fine for
00:33:04,360 --> 00:33:08,200
me if my flight and hotel is fully paid for.
00:33:08,200 --> 00:33:14,760
So you don't get like, general stipend at all? Because I think like some countries do, but
00:33:14,760 --> 00:33:15,760
some countries don't.
00:33:15,760 --> 00:33:20,960
No, yeah, no, for us it's just if you're selected for the comp, we pay the hotel and the flights
00:33:20,960 --> 00:33:30,800
and like that's it. Yeah, no, unfortunately not. But yeah, now some comps depending also
00:33:30,800 --> 00:33:36,160
on our team's budget, we might need to, I mean, this is only for like these next couple
00:33:36,160 --> 00:33:40,160
of years, but we might need to pay ourselves because the budget has been reduced.
00:33:40,160 --> 00:33:43,160
Oh, yeah, World Champs.
00:33:43,160 --> 00:33:45,160
World Champs.
00:33:45,160 --> 00:33:48,160
Oh, dang, really?
00:33:48,160 --> 00:33:56,160
Yeah, there's something wrong with the calculations of the money spent and it kind of...
00:33:56,160 --> 00:34:05,160
What? Wow. So they wanted to host World Champs, but then they came out of the athlete budget?
00:34:05,160 --> 00:34:10,880
No, so they wanted to host World Champs, which went great and everything. It's just that
00:34:10,880 --> 00:34:18,080
the budget they had was overspent. So now to pay back the money that was overspent,
00:34:18,080 --> 00:34:25,120
they need to like reduce costs in different areas of the whole team. And like they've
00:34:25,120 --> 00:34:31,480
tried to reduce as much as they could outside of just like athletes. But now the tiny little
00:34:31,480 --> 00:34:36,480
amount left is just, okay, unfortunately, we can't send everyone to this comp. So you
00:34:36,480 --> 00:34:39,480
guys have to finance yourself.
00:34:39,480 --> 00:34:44,480
Dang. So that's for like the next couple of years?
00:34:44,480 --> 00:34:47,480
Yeah. Next, I think it's over four years.
00:34:47,480 --> 00:34:56,360
Oh my gosh. Wow. So do you know if that impacts you, like you won't get your flights and
00:34:56,360 --> 00:34:58,520
accommodation paid for anymore?
00:34:58,520 --> 00:35:02,480
So this whole season, everything was paid for except for Seoul. So for me going to Seoul,
00:35:02,480 --> 00:35:07,320
I paid my flights and hotel, but I already knew that in advance. So I kind of already
00:35:07,320 --> 00:35:14,760
anticipated, okay, so this is the amount that I'd need for Seoul and for me to go. So it
00:35:14,760 --> 00:35:18,280
wasn't that much of a problem. I think I'm not exactly sure how it's going to be for
00:35:18,280 --> 00:35:23,280
next year. We'll see.
00:35:23,280 --> 00:35:30,000
Okay. So then, I mean, I know you have like your YouTube channel pretty big on that. Do
00:35:30,000 --> 00:35:36,280
you need to take on like other jobs to fund your climbing or do you have like other methods?
00:35:36,280 --> 00:35:42,800
Yeah. So YouTube, I'm trying to stay a bit more consistent in YouTube and trying to like
00:35:42,800 --> 00:35:48,800
get some money off of that. But it's so up and down. Like if I take a little break, the
00:35:48,800 --> 00:35:55,920
views just go down so bad. And so right now the income from YouTube is quite low. I was
00:35:55,920 --> 00:36:06,960
also very lucky to get like national funding from like, if you get certain results in Switzerland,
00:36:06,960 --> 00:36:11,160
you get this like Olympic card and then you get like national funding. You get like a
00:36:11,160 --> 00:36:18,440
certain amount of money per year. So I got that for like five or six years. And last
00:36:18,440 --> 00:36:23,160
year was my last year. So I was able to save quite a bit of money from that because I didn't
00:36:23,160 --> 00:36:31,440
spend that much. So right now I'm just kind of on my savings from all of that money. Yeah.
00:36:31,440 --> 00:36:38,680
And when I have a few like potential ideas, so like YouTube, but then also like maybe
00:36:38,680 --> 00:36:46,160
doing some training plans that people could like subscribe to monthly and they'd like
00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:54,000
have access to some training plans that I'd put in place. And otherwise, I guess there's
00:36:54,000 --> 00:37:00,760
also all this side of like trying to find sponsors. But I think I'd prefer to just like
00:37:00,760 --> 00:37:10,160
work on like training plans and count on myself than other people. No, yeah. It's stressful.
00:37:10,160 --> 00:37:18,040
But yeah, I'm still like, yeah, looking for sponsors who could help financially, but also
00:37:18,040 --> 00:37:24,200
like a brand that I like and enjoy so materially can also be beneficial. If you come out with
00:37:24,200 --> 00:37:30,560
training plans, let me know. I'll share it. I'll add in the description. Oh, thank you.
00:37:30,560 --> 00:37:35,640
I mean, have you ever considered like coaching or maybe that would be part of the training
00:37:35,640 --> 00:37:43,600
plan? Yeah. So I used to work in a climbing gym when I was not moving around as much.
00:37:43,600 --> 00:37:47,440
So when I was at university and I was like always in the same spot, I worked at a climbing
00:37:47,440 --> 00:37:54,720
gym and gave like courses to kids and to adults. But the reason why like I kind of moved to
00:37:54,720 --> 00:38:01,320
like creating training plans on an app is because there isn't that like I can do it
00:38:01,320 --> 00:38:06,920
wherever I am in the world compared to if I want to work in a gym and do like one-on-one
00:38:06,920 --> 00:38:12,400
coaching or like courses, I need to be in certain places on certain days. And so that
00:38:12,400 --> 00:38:19,880
also is a bit like more restrictive. If like, yeah, next week I want to go to Fontainebleau
00:38:19,880 --> 00:38:27,680
and climb outside or do a trip to the States and yeah. So is there like already a specific
00:38:27,680 --> 00:38:32,760
one in mind or just something you can reveal yet? Okay.
00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:37,960
Well, the thing is, no, well, technically everything is in place. Like I do have the
00:38:37,960 --> 00:38:47,320
app is called Tribe and it's just that nothing is on it right now and I don't have and like
00:38:47,320 --> 00:38:51,840
when it's done, I'll have like a link that people could like click on and then it brings
00:38:51,840 --> 00:38:58,920
them to like my page. But for now, I'm still like in the process of writing down all the
00:38:58,920 --> 00:39:02,000
training plans, filming everything and putting it online.
00:39:02,000 --> 00:39:03,000
Gotcha.
00:39:03,000 --> 00:39:08,840
But I don't know how long that will take. I'm a bit slow. So that's why I'm still like
00:39:08,840 --> 00:39:13,320
potentially maybe in like a couple months.
00:39:13,320 --> 00:39:21,960
Well, we'll see. I'm excited to see it come out. It is really like now that I'm like semi
00:39:21,960 --> 00:39:29,200
in it, I do understand the whole like there's no money in climbing thing. Because like I
00:39:29,200 --> 00:39:38,820
used to do some like fashion Instagram blogging and it was small. Like I had a very small
00:39:38,820 --> 00:39:46,640
like following and like no one gave a shit. But even then, there was still way more money
00:39:46,640 --> 00:39:48,320
in it than like climbing.
00:39:48,320 --> 00:39:56,760
That's crazy. That. Yeah, it's I mean, that's really cool that it worked for you. And then
00:39:56,760 --> 00:40:00,720
unfortunately you came into a non money sport.
00:40:00,720 --> 00:40:06,360
Yeah, unfortunately, I started doing this and then I feel like people care about it.
00:40:06,360 --> 00:40:11,280
Yeah, I like it more and more people care about it. But there's just like no there's
00:40:11,280 --> 00:40:15,080
no opportunities, no brands.
00:40:15,080 --> 00:40:22,480
Yeah and it's like I've always been told to try to like go with brands who aren't in climbing.
00:40:22,480 --> 00:40:30,200
But then those brands aren't necessarily interested in climbing either. So it's like I can only
00:40:30,200 --> 00:40:34,520
really go to climbing brands and then yeah, everyone all climbers are in these climbing
00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:35,520
brands.
00:40:35,520 --> 00:40:36,520
Same people, same brands.
00:40:36,520 --> 00:40:40,080
Same people. Yeah, so it's like
00:40:40,080 --> 00:40:44,800
Back in fashion, it was just like they'll just give you money to or they'll like give
00:40:44,800 --> 00:40:49,940
you free stuff. And it's so easy. There's so many.
00:40:49,940 --> 00:40:57,800
I think also that there's been a long mentality in climbing where you don't need much. So
00:40:57,800 --> 00:41:03,000
like all you need are like climbing shoes and a tool bag and then you can maybe get
00:41:03,000 --> 00:41:08,360
your car and just drive and like live in your car and all of that. So I think a lot of athletes
00:41:08,360 --> 00:41:14,880
back in the days also lived off free stuff. Just receiving like free shoes and now with
00:41:14,880 --> 00:41:22,720
like social media coming up and athletes kind of knowing their worth. Like if a brand comes
00:41:22,720 --> 00:41:26,960
to you and like, oh, we'll give you free stuff if you post this, you're like, no, pay me.
00:41:26,960 --> 00:41:32,200
And then they're like, oh, we don't have budget. I'm like, well, okay.
00:41:32,200 --> 00:41:35,400
You're just expected to live off the nature, I guess.
00:41:35,400 --> 00:41:41,040
Yeah, which yeah, unfortunately climbing shoes won't pay my rent.
00:41:41,040 --> 00:41:49,400
That's the issue. But I mean, I guess so like YouTube should help a little bit, but it is
00:41:49,400 --> 00:41:54,760
a lot of work to put out YouTube videos. So how do you balance YouTube and your competition
00:41:54,760 --> 00:41:56,600
schedule?
00:41:56,600 --> 00:42:05,720
So how I usually do it is like, so now during like the off season, I organize with my friend
00:42:05,720 --> 00:42:12,480
of mine who he's a videographer. We like get certain days and then on those days we like
00:42:12,480 --> 00:42:17,640
do a whole day of filming. We try to like film four videos with different concepts.
00:42:17,640 --> 00:42:24,320
You know, it's crazy. And then we do that like a couple of times and then by like, I
00:42:24,320 --> 00:42:34,280
mean, if I do three videos a day of filming, and I do that over two months, like maybe
00:42:34,280 --> 00:42:46,000
two times a month, I have like 16 to 18 videos in like, yeah, five days. So that already
00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:53,360
is like almost four months worth, five months worth of videos in the future. So I have a
00:42:53,360 --> 00:42:57,720
lot of backlog. So like times where I don't have time to film. So like now during the
00:42:57,720 --> 00:43:02,040
comp season where I don't have time to like drive all the way to meet my videographer,
00:43:02,040 --> 00:43:08,920
find a day to like film all of this. I have like 10 videos in stock to edit before drying
00:43:08,920 --> 00:43:09,920
out.
00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:15,280
Okay, that makes sense. That's a good idea. Do you like change outfits in between to make
00:43:15,280 --> 00:43:20,160
it look like it's not the same?
00:43:20,160 --> 00:43:24,640
I think at the beginning, I changed a lot. And now I've just gone to a point where it's
00:43:24,640 --> 00:43:30,320
like, I wear the same clothes all the time anyway. So it doesn't matter.
00:43:30,320 --> 00:43:36,120
Good to know. You mentioned that in one of the sort of recent videos you had posted,
00:43:36,120 --> 00:43:41,520
you got some comments about wearing a weight vest while climbing. Yeah, you said you got
00:43:41,520 --> 00:43:43,360
like some weird comments about it.
00:43:43,360 --> 00:43:52,000
Yeah, so recently I did a video on climbing with a weight vest. And like the whole purpose
00:43:52,000 --> 00:43:58,040
for me on this video was just to like kind of show how my climbing changes. Because also
00:43:58,040 --> 00:44:06,480
climbing with a weight vest is a way of training that I used to use back in the day. And so
00:44:06,480 --> 00:44:10,960
it was just to like experiment on how I felt with the weight vest again and how it affects
00:44:10,960 --> 00:44:17,640
my climbing. And the conclusion was, well, yeah, with putting an extra five kilos on
00:44:17,640 --> 00:44:24,800
from one second to another, I wasn't as explosive. I also wasn't as like confident in my climbing
00:44:24,800 --> 00:44:29,440
because I mean, I wasn't sure if I could do this move with this weight vest. I was also
00:44:29,440 --> 00:44:35,640
a bit more hesitant. And then I got a few comments about like, where we jumped to the
00:44:35,640 --> 00:44:40,880
conclusion where, oh, so to be a better climber, I need to lose weight. And it's like, no,
00:44:40,880 --> 00:44:46,440
that was not the whole, that was not the point of my video. I would be, that would be the
00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:54,840
last thing I would ever try to pass on. Even more so in this video, I did all the same
00:44:54,840 --> 00:45:01,320
boulders that I did without a weight vest, except for one. So it's kind of proves that
00:45:01,320 --> 00:45:06,960
like I can climb just as strong. It's just that you just need to climb with it more regularly
00:45:06,960 --> 00:45:10,880
and then you're probably feel more confident. But yeah, I got a few comments where it's
00:45:10,880 --> 00:45:16,960
like, okay, so being lighter is better and you could climb stronger. I'm like, no, to
00:45:16,960 --> 00:45:23,440
climb strong, you need to train, you need to eat, you need to build muscle and have
00:45:23,440 --> 00:45:31,000
energy to be able to train. I don't know how many hours a week. And I think like that's
00:45:31,000 --> 00:45:36,360
the bad mental side that we have in climbing where it's like, oh, if I want to be a better
00:45:36,360 --> 00:45:40,720
climber, then I need to be able to pull less weight. If I have less weight, I can pull
00:45:40,720 --> 00:45:49,400
more. But it's not like that at all. And I was just, yeah, I want to bring everyone out
00:45:49,400 --> 00:45:51,160
of that mental state.
00:45:51,160 --> 00:45:56,080
Yeah, that was like a weird conclusion. Cause I mean, like a bunch of people have made those
00:45:56,080 --> 00:46:00,040
kinds of videos where they try to like climb with a weight vest on.
00:46:00,040 --> 00:46:08,200
Yeah. And it's, I don't know, I talked about like weight and climbing on Instagram one
00:46:08,200 --> 00:46:17,160
time and really try to like share my experience, but like I didn't even think a weight, like
00:46:17,160 --> 00:46:21,680
that conclusion could come from putting on a weight vest. So maybe, and then I was like
00:46:21,680 --> 00:46:27,360
doubting like, oh shit, did I, was this like a bad idea? Was this a bad video? And at the
00:46:27,360 --> 00:46:32,240
same time, like, but no, because this is a training method and I'm showing people that
00:46:32,240 --> 00:46:34,920
even with extra weight, I can climb hard.
00:46:34,920 --> 00:46:40,760
Yeah. Maybe it's just like all the talk about it lately in competition scenes and like most
00:46:40,760 --> 00:46:45,560
people who watch your channel also watch competitions. Whereas with like other channels, it's just
00:46:45,560 --> 00:46:51,040
like people who like climbing. So they're kind of like primed to think about it in that
00:46:51,040 --> 00:46:57,320
way. Or maybe like, I kind of wonder if it's, cause like most of the other people who have
00:46:57,320 --> 00:47:05,320
made those videos are like male YouTubers and climbers. And they don't really, I don't
00:47:05,320 --> 00:47:10,680
know, people tend to not really care as much about men's bodies, I guess.
00:47:10,680 --> 00:47:19,320
Yeah. That's also one thing I thought of. It was like, is it because like I'm a woman
00:47:19,320 --> 00:47:23,960
and is it because like you can also like women are judged a bit more about their body types,
00:47:23,960 --> 00:47:30,600
their weights. And so like, I don't know if it was women commenting, but it could also
00:47:30,600 --> 00:47:38,040
be like, if it was a woman who commented, maybe also like feeling bad because they're
00:47:38,040 --> 00:47:42,720
maybe not necessarily like feeling good in their climbing or in their skills and on like
00:47:42,720 --> 00:47:49,960
their body image. And so it's like, I, that's why like my response was like very, like I
00:47:49,960 --> 00:47:56,600
was trying to be encouraging and be like, no, the climbing you have to eat, like to
00:47:56,600 --> 00:48:02,560
get stronger, to build muscles, recuperate. But it's always an interesting, it's always
00:48:02,560 --> 00:48:07,280
interesting to compare like comments on men's videos and women's videos.
00:48:07,280 --> 00:48:12,520
Yeah. I mean, even within like the whole red-ass discussion, I think a lot of times it's about
00:48:12,520 --> 00:48:17,080
people don't really think about it on the men's side as much, even though it does happen.
00:48:17,080 --> 00:48:23,680
Yeah. I guess, do you feel like, so I don't know much about this because I never exercised
00:48:23,680 --> 00:48:29,760
when I was a kid, but when it comes to like your body changing from puberty, do you feel
00:48:29,760 --> 00:48:39,080
like you felt a difference in terms of how you climbed? Like you had to relearn anything?
00:48:39,080 --> 00:48:44,960
I wouldn't say I felt a difference in how I climbed. It was more like when I was younger,
00:48:44,960 --> 00:48:50,160
I mean, I still can, but when I was younger, I could eat so much food and not put on like
00:48:50,160 --> 00:48:57,720
a gram. And it was kind of when I hit that puberty phase where I was continuing to like
00:48:57,720 --> 00:49:02,520
eat the same things and I wasn't the healthiest of kids either. Like I ate chips, sweets,
00:49:02,520 --> 00:49:09,160
like chop everything. I mean, I still do, but during that puberty phase, like I was
00:49:09,160 --> 00:49:14,440
very skinny as a kid because I did a lot of sports. I did so many things. And then once
00:49:14,440 --> 00:49:17,680
I hit that puberty phase, I was still doing the same amount of sports, still eating the
00:49:17,680 --> 00:49:26,960
same amount, but because you're going through that phase, I was gaining weight. And for
00:49:26,960 --> 00:49:34,200
me, since like around me, I heard a lot of, be careful, you don't want to put on too much
00:49:34,200 --> 00:49:39,120
weight. It's going to affect your climbing. That's when I was like, oh my gosh, I'm putting
00:49:39,120 --> 00:49:45,640
on weight. Like what's wrong? Like this is terrible, da da da. And so that's when the
00:49:45,640 --> 00:49:52,360
overthinking on food kind of hit in. But the thing is, is that during puberty, yeah, you're
00:49:52,360 --> 00:49:56,520
growing, your body's changing. It's normal that your weight fluctuates. And it's something
00:49:56,520 --> 00:50:01,760
that I feel like isn't talked about enough, especially for like younger athletes coming
00:50:01,760 --> 00:50:11,600
up. Like they may think, oh, I need to stay the same weight that I was at 12, which unfortunately
00:50:11,600 --> 00:50:18,240
is impossible. And that's something that I didn't hear when I was like going through
00:50:18,240 --> 00:50:23,600
that phase. And so all I heard was like, got to be careful. You're going to get fat or
00:50:23,600 --> 00:50:27,280
you're going to put on weight. You're going to like for climbing, you want to be light.
00:50:27,280 --> 00:50:32,360
And so for me, it was like, oh my gosh, yes, I need to stop eating.
00:50:32,360 --> 00:50:39,240
Yeah. I just, I have no idea what going through that would kind of feel like. I guess I just
00:50:39,240 --> 00:50:44,880
know from like seeing humans that there's a very big difference between what like a
00:50:44,880 --> 00:50:51,280
child's body looks like and what an adult's body looks like. And I guess in sports, people
00:50:51,280 --> 00:50:57,640
kind of want to keep what they're used to just because they've been with that body for
00:50:57,640 --> 00:50:58,960
so long.
00:50:58,960 --> 00:51:06,720
It's hard. Yeah. It's so hard to like really understand where it comes from. But I think,
00:51:06,720 --> 00:51:15,040
yeah, mostly for me was like, I think, yeah, when I was 14, 15, I was maybe like 42, 46
00:51:15,040 --> 00:51:24,560
kilos. And so in a short span of time, like I had gained much more weight and like, I
00:51:24,560 --> 00:51:28,120
didn't even necessarily feel the difference when I was climbing. That's the worst part.
00:51:28,120 --> 00:51:33,640
It's just that you see the scales. Like you see that change and you're like, it's like,
00:51:33,640 --> 00:51:38,880
yeah, climbing is a weight sport. This is going to affect my climbing. And so I'm going
00:51:38,880 --> 00:51:43,920
to be worse if I put on more weight, but not at all. Like I was gaining muscle. I was gaining
00:51:43,920 --> 00:51:51,160
strength. So it's like, I'm actually feeling stronger than I ever have, even though I've
00:51:51,160 --> 00:51:52,640
put on six kilos.
00:51:52,640 --> 00:51:55,440
I guess how did you snap out of that mentality?
00:51:55,440 --> 00:52:03,960
I had a lot of help from like friends, family, but also like psychologist, nutritionist doctor.
00:52:03,960 --> 00:52:12,720
When I was younger, my doctor was like, look, you're very on the limit to red S. I want
00:52:12,720 --> 00:52:18,640
you to get into contact with this nutritionist. She's a good friend of mine. She's great.
00:52:18,640 --> 00:52:24,920
Which I did, but it happened in two phases. The first phase I went to go talk to her and
00:52:24,920 --> 00:52:32,120
she was like, yeah, so of course for energy, for you to, you need food, you can eat bread,
00:52:32,120 --> 00:52:35,960
you can carbs is what's going to give you energy. And in my head, I was just like, I
00:52:35,960 --> 00:52:39,160
was listening to her, but I was like, I'm never going to eat bread ever again.
00:52:39,160 --> 00:52:44,920
Oh my gosh. Nope. No pasta. Okay. You're telling me this, but I'm going to eat as little as
00:52:44,920 --> 00:52:51,280
possible. So I wasn't like ready to accept her help, but it was as like years went by
00:52:51,280 --> 00:52:56,720
where I kind of like noticed from like, this is not good. I don't have a good relationship
00:52:56,720 --> 00:53:03,360
with food. Like I reduce my meals as much as possible to then be starving in the middle
00:53:03,360 --> 00:53:09,400
of the night to then go eat. And it's like, that is not how it's supposed to be. So I
00:53:09,400 --> 00:53:14,800
think it's also a lot like myself who kind of realized like my frontal lobe maybe developed
00:53:14,800 --> 00:53:21,760
a bit more. I was like, this is not normal. And that's when I also recontacted her again
00:53:21,760 --> 00:53:27,400
and she's like, okay, look, we're going to work on this. I had to download like an app
00:53:27,400 --> 00:53:31,600
and like I'd sent her my meals. And since I was motivated and really wanted to like
00:53:31,600 --> 00:53:39,240
work on it and find a good relationship with food, I was like, okay, yeah, this is what
00:53:39,240 --> 00:53:40,600
I need to do to get better.
00:53:40,600 --> 00:53:46,000
Well, did you like tell your nutritionist that you hadn't actually been doing what she
00:53:46,000 --> 00:53:47,000
said?
00:53:47,000 --> 00:53:51,160
Yeah, it was, it was a couple years later. Like I think I was wondering two years later
00:53:51,160 --> 00:53:55,660
after the first time I saw her, I was like, oh, to be honest, what you were telling me
00:53:55,660 --> 00:54:04,400
back in the day, I just was not accepting it. But now I'm ready to like listen and hear
00:54:04,400 --> 00:54:11,240
what you have to say and really work on it. And she was like, well, the fact that you
00:54:11,240 --> 00:54:17,160
said that shows that you've grown as a person and also as an athlete. So thank you for sharing.
00:54:17,160 --> 00:54:23,520
I was like, you're welcome. Yeah. But my psychologist also helped. She was like, you need to share
00:54:23,520 --> 00:54:30,700
like what you're thinking and you can never really overshare when it comes to these kinds
00:54:30,700 --> 00:54:31,700
of things.
00:54:31,700 --> 00:54:34,400
Never hide stuff from your doctors or nutritionists.
00:54:34,400 --> 00:54:37,320
No, no, never. You should always be honest.
00:54:37,320 --> 00:54:41,320
Well, I'm glad you had that support system. I think that always helps a lot.
00:54:41,320 --> 00:54:42,320
Yeah, for sure.
00:54:42,320 --> 00:54:52,200
I do have a question about, I guess, like weight and climbing. I don't want it to, I
00:54:52,200 --> 00:54:58,200
don't know if it's like a bad question, so it might get cut out. But do people do like
00:54:58,200 --> 00:55:05,600
bulking and cutting sessions and like with the competition season, like they do in other
00:55:05,600 --> 00:55:06,600
sports?
00:55:06,600 --> 00:55:15,440
Yeah. So I think there is like a phase before comps where people are like, or athletes can
00:55:15,440 --> 00:55:24,120
be like, okay, well, I'm going to try to like get as lean as possible. Which I won't lie
00:55:24,120 --> 00:55:33,600
is something that I do, but I don't reduce my meals. I reduce the chips and the chocolate
00:55:33,600 --> 00:55:43,400
that I'm eating. So it's more like I try to like during the winter phase, it's more like,
00:55:43,400 --> 00:55:52,200
oh, well, season's over. I'm just going to enjoy like eating the foods that I enjoy most,
00:55:52,200 --> 00:55:59,000
which is like chocolate, chips, sweets. And I have that a bit more during the winter phase.
00:55:59,000 --> 00:56:07,240
And then once it's comps, I kind of like, I don't really know why, because I guess it
00:56:07,240 --> 00:56:12,800
doesn't necessarily affect my climbing. But I think also just like thinking that I'm eating
00:56:12,800 --> 00:56:21,080
cleaner also like helps. So I'm like, okay, well, I'm just going to, I don't cut everything
00:56:21,080 --> 00:56:29,640
out. Like I'm just, I like, I just eat really big amount of chips. So like I had a discussion
00:56:29,640 --> 00:56:33,960
with my boyfriend where he was like, it's not by reducing the amount of chips you eat
00:56:33,960 --> 00:56:38,640
that you're going to lose weight. I'm like, if I have a pack of chips a day, which is
00:56:38,640 --> 00:56:46,480
like 500 calories, of course it is. Like, replace that with something healthier. Exactly.
00:56:46,480 --> 00:56:52,160
Replace that with pasta or like it's like, of course you're going to see an influence
00:56:52,160 --> 00:56:56,560
on like body weight. And so that's just kind of the shift that I do. Like I just, instead
00:56:56,560 --> 00:57:02,400
of having a bag of chips a day, I have maybe one a week. Like that bag of chips last me
00:57:02,400 --> 00:57:08,040
the whole week. Yeah. Okay. Yeah. I mean, I guess I was wondering, because I know like
00:57:08,040 --> 00:57:14,960
a lot of other sports, people do like a huge bulk where they're like trying to put on as
00:57:14,960 --> 00:57:21,640
much muscle as they can, like fat, whatever, it doesn't matter. And then once like the
00:57:21,640 --> 00:57:27,280
competition is about to happen, that's when they like cut all of it. And then they sometimes
00:57:27,280 --> 00:57:34,040
get into kind of a dangerous zone where they really shouldn't be there, but they're only
00:57:34,040 --> 00:57:38,560
going to do that for a little and then it'll like all come back on. So maybe it's fine.
00:57:38,560 --> 00:57:45,760
I don't know the nutrition side there. Yeah. I don't totally think that's the best. Okay.
00:57:45,760 --> 00:57:55,460
Like, because like I definitely agree to put on muscle, you need to eat more protein. But
00:57:55,460 --> 00:58:00,880
I think the idea of like telling yourself to eat as much as possible, to like gain as
00:58:00,880 --> 00:58:05,840
much muscle as possible, to then reduce my calories afterwards. I think that's where
00:58:05,840 --> 00:58:12,560
like, yeah, the kind of like disordered eating can sometimes come in. Whereas if you just
00:58:12,560 --> 00:58:18,080
eat the same amount of calories the whole time, you just like maybe switch things up
00:58:18,080 --> 00:58:24,800
where you like eat more protein throughout the day for like muscle building. And then
00:58:24,800 --> 00:58:29,560
maybe during the comp phase, just like then reduce protein and have more carbs. That I
00:58:29,560 --> 00:58:35,120
find that much more efficient. And then you just have like a normal balance throughout
00:58:35,120 --> 00:58:40,600
your whole life of like food intake. Although if it's always like, eat more, now reduce,
00:58:40,600 --> 00:58:48,560
eat more, now reduce. It's like you're never really like intuitively eating. It's always
00:58:48,560 --> 00:58:53,000
like, you're always counting. You're always watching what you're eating. You're always
00:58:53,000 --> 00:58:58,800
like, I need to eat a thousand more calories today, whether it's eating more or less. It's
00:58:58,800 --> 00:59:03,960
like, ah, I need to eat a thousand more or I need to eat 300 less. It's like you're always
00:59:03,960 --> 00:59:11,720
constantly thinking of food. And so it's like already that I find unhealthy. Although if
00:59:11,720 --> 00:59:17,640
you just always have like the same amount of food intake, you just change the proportions
00:59:17,640 --> 00:59:23,080
of like protein, carbs. I find that so much more healthier.
00:59:23,080 --> 00:59:29,040
Yeah, it's a lot easier mentally for sure. Yeah, because then you're just like, okay,
00:59:29,040 --> 00:59:35,400
well I'm hungry. I'm going to make myself a meal. This is my meal. I have, I don't know,
00:59:35,400 --> 00:59:41,200
my protein in it. And then when I'm done, I'm full. Although if you're calorie counting,
00:59:41,200 --> 00:59:46,540
you're like, okay, let me weigh my pasta that I'm about to make. Let me count the sauce
00:59:46,540 --> 00:59:52,160
that I'm putting in. There's just so much to think about.
00:59:52,160 --> 00:59:58,000
Yeah. Maybe something I need to ask like a bodybuilder about.
00:59:58,000 --> 01:00:07,320
My cousin's boyfriend is in, I think, bodybuilding. And I should actually also ask him how it
01:00:07,320 --> 01:00:13,120
is mentally because I see he's always like posting like video because they also like
01:00:13,120 --> 01:00:19,720
take pictures of themselves for like progress. Yeah. And it's very like image, body image
01:00:19,720 --> 01:00:27,520
dependent. So I always wondered like, how does it actually affect them? Because I feel
01:00:27,520 --> 01:00:32,760
like that is the perfect way to get into disordered eating and not feel confident at all in your
01:00:32,760 --> 01:00:37,760
body. Yeah. Well, I mean, that's kind of like their whole lifestyle. Like that is their
01:00:37,760 --> 01:00:44,760
livelihood, like cooking and cutting. So I'm like, it seems it's definitely not for me,
01:00:44,760 --> 01:00:50,360
but is it fine? Like, I don't know. There must be so much research into it. Maybe it
01:00:50,360 --> 01:00:54,360
is fine. So yeah, I'm not sure.
01:00:54,360 --> 01:00:59,160
It should be yet really interesting to get into. I'll get into that too.
01:00:59,160 --> 01:01:05,000
Okay. Yeah, let me know. Yeah. And yeah, I just wanted to know if any climbers did it.
01:01:05,000 --> 01:01:08,760
Like do you know if anyone does it like that?
01:01:08,760 --> 01:01:17,080
I don't personally know. I just feel like it's a general, like there was like, I even
01:01:17,080 --> 01:01:24,720
recently had a discussion with my coach where he was like, also just to like go back onto
01:01:24,720 --> 01:01:30,480
training and all of that. I don't want you to feel like when it comes to comp season
01:01:30,480 --> 01:01:37,080
that you need to cut because I know it's like a general understanding that this is comp
01:01:37,080 --> 01:01:43,480
climbers do and not necessarily just climbers, but athletes in general, the athletes before
01:01:43,480 --> 01:01:53,560
their big event, they like cut as much as they can. He was like, I don't want you to
01:01:53,560 --> 01:01:59,080
think that that's what you need to do. But yeah, I don't personally know anyone, but
01:01:59,080 --> 01:02:05,880
I think because it just happens so often in so many sports, like for sure in climbing,
01:02:05,880 --> 01:02:10,440
it happens. I mean, you can even tell sometimes like you see a climber winter and then you
01:02:10,440 --> 01:02:17,920
see them before comp season. It's like they've been cutting. But it could also like, you
01:02:17,920 --> 01:02:23,840
can do it in a healthy way. That's the thing. Yeah. Yeah. Like this is why I find it's such
01:02:23,840 --> 01:02:29,240
a sensitive subject because there's that bad mentality in climbing where it's like, I need
01:02:29,240 --> 01:02:34,160
to be lighter to be stronger. But if you're doing it in a healthy way and in a way where
01:02:34,160 --> 01:02:41,800
it's like, I'm not going to reduce or like maybe reduced by like 100, 200 calories, but
01:02:41,800 --> 01:02:47,320
like I'm not going to do this crazy cut or whatever. I'm just going to eat a bit more
01:02:47,320 --> 01:02:54,240
healthier and just be careful on certain things that I'm eating. Then it can be just, yeah,
01:02:54,240 --> 01:03:04,080
then it's just like more natural law. Yeah. Obvious kind of, and be like, I need to reduce
01:03:04,080 --> 01:03:08,640
500 calories and this is what my meal is going to be. And this is the amount of grams that
01:03:08,640 --> 01:03:14,240
I need to have. I feel like once you start doing that, it's unhealthy. Yeah. That's a
01:03:14,240 --> 01:03:20,200
bit dangerous. I guess we'll just say, we'll just wrap it up with maybe there needs to
01:03:20,200 --> 01:03:27,120
be more research in terms of bulking cutting and work with a nutritionist. Yeah. I definitely
01:03:27,120 --> 01:03:34,600
think a nutritionist will help you for sure. If you're doubting on your food intake. And
01:03:34,600 --> 01:03:39,800
I think, I think the general thing is just like, if you're in a healthy mindset, then
01:03:39,800 --> 01:03:45,000
I guess it's fine. But once it becomes to be obsessive, then you need to take a step
01:03:45,000 --> 01:03:49,680
back and be like, something is wrong. All right. Well, we'll wrap that up there. Unless
01:03:49,680 --> 01:03:55,360
you had anything else that you wanted to touch on with that. No, I think it's all good. Okay.
01:03:55,360 --> 01:04:02,920
So, yeah, let's go into a bit more of, I guess, your personal life. You're pretty open about
01:04:02,920 --> 01:04:10,400
being in a relationship with another pro comp climber on the circuit. Yes. And so that's
01:04:10,400 --> 01:04:14,620
great because I feel like there must be a lot more relationships behind the scenes that
01:04:14,620 --> 01:04:21,280
we don't hear about. I mean, does it happen a lot? You guys spend a lot of time together.
01:04:21,280 --> 01:04:28,160
So I mean, just naturally, I never, I never knew about Tomoa and Akio until they like
01:04:28,160 --> 01:04:35,240
got married on Instagram. I was like, I didn't know they were, I think. Oh, like you would
01:04:35,240 --> 01:04:40,520
see them on the circuit and still not know. Yeah. And still not know. Okay. But I think
01:04:40,520 --> 01:04:43,840
they're just very discreet people in general, like the Japanese in general. But yeah, there's
01:04:43,840 --> 01:04:48,320
sometimes also then like you see a new relationship come out when you're like, oh, and you'd
01:04:48,320 --> 01:04:54,040
see that like before Instagram, you'd see it on the comp scene and be like, oh, okay,
01:04:54,040 --> 01:05:01,600
cool. Any like, well, no, I'm not going to ask for like names or anything. But does it,
01:05:01,600 --> 01:05:09,400
do you feel like it gets messy? I feel like the climbing community is really small. So
01:05:09,400 --> 01:05:15,840
there's a lot of gossip and everyone kind of knows everyone, especially on the comp
01:05:15,840 --> 01:05:30,360
scene where like you see everyone on the, yeah, comps. I don't personally know much
01:05:30,360 --> 01:05:38,240
of like the gossip gossip behind the scenes of what really goes on. But I think there's,
01:05:38,240 --> 01:05:48,640
yeah, there's quite a lot of things going on. Okay. Did, I mean, did you ever, did you
01:05:48,640 --> 01:05:56,000
like consider that before going into your relationship where it's like, maybe I, maybe
01:05:56,000 --> 01:06:00,320
this isn't a good idea. Like if something bad happened, we would see each other all
01:06:00,320 --> 01:06:11,080
the time everywhere. No, that's not, I never really thought of it that way. For me it was
01:06:11,080 --> 01:06:19,240
more like, okay, someone at comps, I'm going to be able to see them at every comp too.
01:06:19,240 --> 01:06:25,240
Also like training wise, we like love the same thing. And so we could go on climbing
01:06:25,240 --> 01:06:30,320
trips. We can, that was kind of more like my mental side. I was like, oh my God, this
01:06:30,320 --> 01:06:36,240
is great actually. Nice. Yeah. There's so many things that we can do that we both enjoy
01:06:36,240 --> 01:06:41,720
instead of like, if someone who doesn't climb be like, well, what do you want to do? Do
01:06:41,720 --> 01:06:49,000
you not want to go on a climbing trip next summer for three weeks? So no, I was a lot
01:06:49,000 --> 01:06:53,760
more like on the positive side than like, oh, if it ends, I'm going to have to see this
01:06:53,760 --> 01:07:00,960
person for my rest of the career. Okay. That's good to know. Is it like difficult that you
01:07:00,960 --> 01:07:05,040
guys live in different countries? I guess now you're kind of splitting your time. So
01:07:05,040 --> 01:07:11,360
maybe that was part of the reason. Yeah. No. So now it's really easy because I see him
01:07:11,360 --> 01:07:19,800
almost every day. Yeah. Cause I'm like half living here in Innsbruck and then also half
01:07:19,800 --> 01:07:25,360
like back at home with my parents. So it's not right now. It's really easy, but once
01:07:25,360 --> 01:07:31,280
it's kind of like getting into the like more serious side, it was like, okay, well we won't
01:07:31,280 --> 01:07:37,160
see each other for two weeks and then I'll see you. Yeah. Well we have time, which was
01:07:37,160 --> 01:07:43,600
a bit harder. It's like, oh, I don't like long distance. Yeah. But we sorted that out
01:07:43,600 --> 01:07:48,480
quite fast. So that's okay. Yeah. Was that like kind of like the most challenging thing
01:07:48,480 --> 01:07:57,280
about dating another like comp climber or were there like other challenges there? I
01:07:57,280 --> 01:08:06,520
think for me it was like more the long distance, like how will it work potentially? But since
01:08:06,520 --> 01:08:12,720
I finished uni and decided to just like focus a hundred percent on climbing, well I had
01:08:12,720 --> 01:08:17,200
the time to move around and since he like also focuses a hundred percent on climbing,
01:08:17,200 --> 01:08:23,800
like we had a lot of flexibility to move around that. I think for me the big question was
01:08:23,800 --> 01:08:28,800
like, is it okay if then I'm not in Switzerland as much, if I'm not training with the team
01:08:28,800 --> 01:08:34,520
as much, if I don't see my coach as much. But that I had like a huge discussion with
01:08:34,520 --> 01:08:40,760
my coach. I had a huge discussion with like the also Austrian team coaches to see if I
01:08:40,760 --> 01:08:48,240
could like train with them and everyone was so understanding and helpful and we like figured
01:08:48,240 --> 01:08:56,400
it all out and now I'm fine. Yeah. So do you spend a lot of time training with him? Yeah.
01:08:56,400 --> 01:09:02,960
That's yeah. I train with my coach or with my boyfriend? Oh, with your boyfriend. Yeah.
01:09:02,960 --> 01:09:10,360
Yeah. Almost every session is like he's there. Sometimes he's like, of course, like training
01:09:10,360 --> 01:09:15,640
with the guys on the team because I guess that's one thing for me, training with him
01:09:15,640 --> 01:09:20,440
can only bring me positive things because he's just so much stronger than me. I guess
01:09:20,440 --> 01:09:29,820
him training with me is a bit probably not as beneficial as it is for me because he's
01:09:29,820 --> 01:09:37,880
not necessarily, like if it's just us climbing, he sometimes finds it hard to get himself
01:09:37,880 --> 01:09:44,160
a bit more motivated to like try hard and just like power it out because I'm not as
01:09:44,160 --> 01:09:49,920
strong. Because he just, he just doesn't have that person to like also like push him and
01:09:49,920 --> 01:09:55,120
be like, oh, this border is possible. Okay, let's do it together. But for me, because
01:09:55,120 --> 01:09:59,360
he's stronger and he's like, you could do this. It's just that I'm like, yeah, of course
01:09:59,360 --> 01:10:04,960
I can. Yeah. Yeah, I agree with that. Yeah. It's always nice to climb with someone stronger.
01:10:04,960 --> 01:10:12,680
I also find it really hard to get motivation if I'm the only stronger climber. Because
01:10:12,680 --> 01:10:17,480
then, yeah, if you like come across a boulder that you can't do, you're like, well, maybe
01:10:17,480 --> 01:10:24,360
it's just not possible. Yeah, exactly. And so it's, it's a big like, not necessarily
01:10:24,360 --> 01:10:30,320
battle in your head, but it's like, okay, you can, you can just try hard, like give
01:10:30,320 --> 01:10:35,880
it all like, maybe, but if someone else is with you where they maybe do a move and you're
01:10:35,880 --> 01:10:39,760
like, oh, great, it is possible. And then maybe you do the other move and it's like,
01:10:39,760 --> 01:10:43,480
okay, we can definitely work on this. We can definitely get it together. So I have that
01:10:43,480 --> 01:10:49,720
24 seven. He doesn't. Well, that is great. I'm glad that it's, I'm glad that it's working
01:10:49,720 --> 01:10:57,100
out for you. Thank you. Okay, so outside of climbing then, do you have time for like anything
01:10:57,100 --> 01:11:04,200
else that you like to do? Did you ever pick up an instrument as a kid when your parents
01:11:04,200 --> 01:11:11,040
were having you guys choose something? Yeah, I did the electric guitar for a couple of
01:11:11,040 --> 01:11:20,560
years. But put that aside, once I really got more into climbing. I think just like, right
01:11:20,560 --> 01:11:27,240
now it's whenever I have like after training, it'd be just more like, yeah, reading. When
01:11:27,240 --> 01:11:34,800
I went to reading, like I also enjoy running, doing like other activities. Like if I had
01:11:34,800 --> 01:11:43,040
the money, I do escape games every day, pilates, escape games, like escape rooms. Yeah, escape
01:11:43,040 --> 01:11:50,240
rooms. Yeah. Oh, that's so interesting. They're so good. I just, yeah, I enjoy just love that.
01:11:50,240 --> 01:11:53,680
I enjoy like everything. Yeah, YouTube takes up so much time. Like, so then I've gotten
01:11:53,680 --> 01:12:01,240
a lot more into like videography and photography. Like I really enjoy like taking pictures.
01:12:01,240 --> 01:12:05,080
Like if we ever go on a trip, I always have like my camera and then I'm like editing a
01:12:05,080 --> 01:12:11,680
bit. So there's yeah, a lot of small things, but if I had more money, I definitely do much
01:12:11,680 --> 01:12:16,880
more. Interesting. I feel like escape rooms is kind of different. I don't really hear
01:12:16,880 --> 01:12:22,760
people gush about escape rooms too much anymore these days. Yeah. There was a Harry Potter
01:12:22,760 --> 01:12:28,320
one that I did recently, which also just got me back into it. I was like, wow, Harry Potter.
01:12:28,320 --> 01:12:35,560
And this was great. Interesting. Okay. It was like, it was a big thing a few years ago
01:12:35,560 --> 01:12:39,240
and then it kind of like died down a bit. So I don't hear people talk about it so much
01:12:39,240 --> 01:12:45,560
anymore. I think also my parents, you know, my parents are into it too, or like my mom,
01:12:45,560 --> 01:12:48,640
every time we're all together as a family, she's like, I'm working as an escape room
01:12:48,640 --> 01:12:55,360
friend. Oh, wow. Fun. Okay. Good to know. If anyone wants to take you anywhere, it's
01:12:55,360 --> 01:13:03,120
the escape room. Escape room. Yep. Any goals for the future that you can think of? I've
01:13:03,120 --> 01:13:11,400
actually thought quite a bit recently because I just turned 26. I like I turned 26 two months
01:13:11,400 --> 01:13:19,200
ago now. And I was like, what am I going to do with my life? Thank you. How long am I
01:13:19,200 --> 01:13:25,600
going to continue doing comps for? What am I going to do when I stop? Like there's been
01:13:25,600 --> 01:13:30,320
a lot of, for some reason hitting the 26 and realizing I'm closer to 30 was kind of like
01:13:30,320 --> 01:13:41,360
a shock. Yeah, I know. I'm closer to 30 than 20. And I think also, yeah, with sports, I
01:13:41,360 --> 01:13:49,240
just like people consider, would consider me old in climbing compared to like the average
01:13:49,240 --> 01:13:56,800
age of like all the youth coming up now and they're born in like 2006. And yeah, so you're
01:13:56,800 --> 01:14:04,920
born before 2000, right? Yes. You were born in the 1900s, as people say. I'm still the
01:14:04,920 --> 01:14:13,280
cool generation. Imagine being born in 2000s. I know. I can't, I can't imagine. But no,
01:14:13,280 --> 01:14:21,560
so I have actually been thinking quite a bit of like my future and stuff. And I think for
01:14:21,560 --> 01:14:30,800
like the close future, I might head back to school. Like maybe do an online course on
01:14:30,800 --> 01:14:37,960
like cybersecurity, something like that. Cause that's something I find really interesting
01:14:37,960 --> 01:14:48,560
and could be really motivated to work in in the future. And otherwise maybe, yeah, like
01:14:48,560 --> 01:14:52,760
this coaching app and depending on how it goes, maybe like develop something more into
01:14:52,760 --> 01:15:02,200
coaching. I was also talking to my coach about maybe in the future coaching the Swiss team
01:15:02,200 --> 01:15:08,600
and all of that. And so there's a few options, few ideas, but for now, I think for the closer
01:15:08,600 --> 01:15:13,560
future is like this online training app and online school.
01:15:13,560 --> 01:15:19,760
Exciting. Sorry, you had to go through the getting closer to 30.
01:15:19,760 --> 01:15:29,520
Yeah. Realize certain things. It's rough. Yeah. It's weird. Well, for, yeah, I'm 27
01:15:29,520 --> 01:15:37,960
and for me, I do hang around a lot of like, there are a lot of like younger climbing people
01:15:37,960 --> 01:15:44,000
as well. So when I hear someone's 22, especially because of COVID, I think, especially because
01:15:44,000 --> 01:15:48,320
of COVID, I feel like I lost a few years. And so when I meet someone who's like 22,
01:15:48,320 --> 01:15:55,920
I'm like, okay, cool. We're like the same. And then I think in their mind, I'm like grandma.
01:15:55,920 --> 01:15:59,360
So that always hurts.
01:15:59,360 --> 01:16:05,840
For sure. Like I try to tell myself, look, COVID took two years of my life. So I'm not
01:16:05,840 --> 01:16:12,960
26. I'm 24. Exactly. But then like my boyfriend's two years younger than me. My brother is three
01:16:12,960 --> 01:16:17,680
years younger than me. Like everyone on the team and Dre, my teammate is a year older,
01:16:17,680 --> 01:16:25,840
but she is taking a year out to travel. So like now everyone on the team is like 2001
01:16:25,840 --> 01:16:34,760
and before. So I'm like, oh my gosh, I'm so old. But then I talked to my coach and he's
01:16:34,760 --> 01:16:41,000
like, look, once you hit 30, you'll realize that there's actually so much more in life
01:16:41,000 --> 01:16:47,200
than being in your twenties. Don't worry about it. I'm like, I will definitely agree. But
01:16:47,200 --> 01:16:54,160
right now it does not feel that way. Right now I feel like it's the end of my life.
01:16:54,160 --> 01:16:59,880
Yeah, I get that. Especially when I see all the posts about people being like, people
01:16:59,880 --> 01:17:03,200
are born in the 1900s.
01:17:03,200 --> 01:17:10,480
Yeah. And one post that I recently saw also where it's like, I grew up in the One Direction
01:17:10,480 --> 01:17:16,640
group. You know, I loved One Direction, loved them. And someone commented, Harry Styles
01:17:16,640 --> 01:17:25,520
was in One Direction. I was like, excuse me? How do you not know that?
01:17:25,520 --> 01:17:28,520
Or getting to that point in life.
01:17:28,520 --> 01:17:33,880
I feel like also, yeah, in sports, because people are always like, oh, you're getting
01:17:33,880 --> 01:17:42,120
old. What are you going to do? And it's like, I'm only 26. Like, maybe I'm a bit older
01:17:42,120 --> 01:17:46,800
on the older side in the sports, but people are climbing into like Yakup Shuler. He's
01:17:46,800 --> 01:17:51,400
32. Like Jane Kim. She had a kid and came back.
01:17:51,400 --> 01:17:54,320
Yeah, she has a huge inspiration.
01:17:54,320 --> 01:18:00,560
Huge inspiration. Like, let's stop making me feel old. Thank you. And with my Asian
01:18:00,560 --> 01:18:03,960
jeans, maybe I can go in time 40. Who knows?
01:18:03,960 --> 01:18:09,560
Yeah. The thing is, like, well, I don't really know when peak is, but then you still have
01:18:09,560 --> 01:18:14,160
the experience. So you gain experience. Maybe. Exactly.
01:18:14,160 --> 01:18:17,920
Physical peak. I don't know when that is, but you have the experience.
01:18:17,920 --> 01:18:23,680
Yeah. And I think, or at least up until now, I haven't felt a difference, I feel like,
01:18:23,680 --> 01:18:28,720
in anything. But sometimes I'm like, oh, my back hurts. And then you've got the younger
01:18:28,720 --> 01:18:34,720
one who's like, aren't you a grandma? I'm like, fuck that. You'll see. It will come.
01:18:34,720 --> 01:18:38,680
You're just young and haven't gone through puberty yet. You'll see.
01:18:38,680 --> 01:18:43,720
Yeah, you'll see in a few years. Everyone goes through it. It's the circle
01:18:43,720 --> 01:18:52,240
of life. Yeah. Okay. That's enough depressing talk.
01:18:52,240 --> 01:18:58,160
I think those were all the questions I had. We have a couple Discord questions or it was
01:18:58,160 --> 01:19:05,240
more like one question I want to go over and then a couple statements that people had.
01:19:05,240 --> 01:19:11,480
Not bad statements. So one was Tom Greenall, GB coach, said that he's a big fan and he
01:19:11,480 --> 01:19:14,240
was really happy that you're on. I didn't know you guys knew each other, so that was
01:19:14,240 --> 01:19:20,200
good to know. Yeah. So when I was doing comps in England
01:19:20,200 --> 01:19:24,360
and all that, he was the coach at that time. And so I got to know him really well.
01:19:24,360 --> 01:19:28,800
I feel that makes sense. And I used to see him at every comp and we'd
01:19:28,800 --> 01:19:32,360
always have a little chat and stuff. So, oh, that's so sweet.
01:19:32,360 --> 01:19:39,880
Yeah. Awesome. This other one from a person in the Discord, she said, I once called Sophia
01:19:39,880 --> 01:19:45,360
by the wrong name a year and a half ago and I still think about that at least weekly.
01:19:45,360 --> 01:19:49,680
So do you remember any occurrence of this? No.
01:19:49,680 --> 01:19:53,600
Okay, good. So then it's all good. No, no, no. It didn't. So, yep.
01:19:53,600 --> 01:19:58,800
No problem about that. No hard feelings. Okay. And then last question,
01:19:58,800 --> 01:20:06,720
who's your favorite YouTuber? That's a very good question.
01:20:06,720 --> 01:20:12,520
I don't really watch YouTube though. Okay. No, actually, no, I have a good answer for
01:20:12,520 --> 01:20:17,720
that. Natasha Osean. Oh, okay.
01:20:17,720 --> 01:20:24,160
And she recently did a video on how she's stopping YouTube, which made me so sad. That
01:20:24,160 --> 01:20:30,840
was the first person ever where I'm like, no, you're going to be like her presence.
01:20:30,840 --> 01:20:35,800
Like I loved her presence, her energy. And also everything was like scientific base and
01:20:35,800 --> 01:20:42,160
it was like proven things and not just like random people who are on YouTube and be like
01:20:42,160 --> 01:20:47,480
doing it for the clickbait and for the fame kind of. She was like here on to really pass
01:20:47,480 --> 01:20:51,280
on a message and I really love that. So yeah, I would say her.
01:20:51,280 --> 01:20:57,320
That's a good one. I agree. I don't hear many people talk about her because I mean, she's,
01:20:57,320 --> 01:21:00,280
she doesn't really do like climbing stuff generally, except for that one video with
01:21:00,280 --> 01:21:07,000
Yanya, which I was very surprised to see. Me too. I was like, oh my God, she's in climbing.
01:21:07,000 --> 01:21:10,880
This is so great. Yeah. I was like, I didn't even know she knew
01:21:10,880 --> 01:21:16,680
climbers. I didn't know that Yanya, I don't know how they got in contact, but I was so
01:21:16,680 --> 01:21:21,400
excited to see. I think everyone should watch that video. I think so too. And her videos
01:21:21,400 --> 01:21:27,360
in general, because I mean, that's one thing I don't do. I do not watch other YouTube climbers
01:21:27,360 --> 01:21:32,720
videos on YouTube. Like I, I watch my, I like, I have to watch mine because I edit them and
01:21:32,720 --> 01:21:38,480
that's already enough. I'm like, oh, that's enough climbing, enough climbing videos for
01:21:38,480 --> 01:21:44,680
now. Um, so I kind of try to like go out of YouTube.
01:21:44,680 --> 01:21:51,040
I was just watching these day in the life of some other YouTubers, which I enjoy, but
01:21:51,040 --> 01:21:55,040
not much more than that. Yeah. I really like her aesthetic as well.
01:21:55,040 --> 01:22:02,040
But so you never like watch other like strong climbers to try to get motivation to climb
01:22:02,040 --> 01:22:12,480
or train? No, I only watch like videos of boulders that
01:22:12,480 --> 01:22:19,440
I'm potentially interested in, like to get the methods, but otherwise motivation, I have
01:22:19,440 --> 01:22:22,440
it in my apartment. Yeah, that's true.
01:22:22,440 --> 01:22:26,720
Like with my boyfriend, like we both go, we're like, okay, let's go training. Okay, let's
01:22:26,720 --> 01:22:30,720
go. True. Okay. Yeah. I think for me, sometimes it
01:22:30,720 --> 01:22:36,340
helps. I try to like, before I know I'm about to go climbing, I try to watch a video of
01:22:36,340 --> 01:22:39,760
someone just doing hard boulders. That's it.
01:22:39,760 --> 01:22:43,080
So that I can get that motivation. Sometimes it doesn't work though.
01:22:43,080 --> 01:22:48,840
So I did back in the days, listen to motivational speeches though.
01:22:48,840 --> 01:22:54,320
Really? Like there was a time where I really, like I
01:22:54,320 --> 01:22:59,160
didn't have, cause I was still at like obligatory school. So I didn't have much time and I really
01:22:59,160 --> 01:23:04,160
had to like find ways. Like I'd wake up sometimes a bit earlier before school to train and then
01:23:04,160 --> 01:23:09,400
I'd have to train quite late in the evening. So to just like really boost that, I'd like
01:23:09,400 --> 01:23:12,840
listen to those motivational speeches like daily.
01:23:12,840 --> 01:23:16,440
Wow. Yeah, no, but I would believe those videos.
01:23:16,440 --> 01:23:21,360
Like I knew the lyrics by heart. Wait, lyrics?
01:23:21,360 --> 01:23:25,120
Well not lyrics, like what they were saying. Just the speech. Okay. Yeah. Just the speech.
01:23:25,120 --> 01:23:29,080
Don't need it anymore. Don't need it anymore.
01:23:29,080 --> 01:23:34,360
Luckily or luckily, I don't know. It was fun. I love their voices. It is really like, oh
01:23:34,360 --> 01:23:37,800
yes. Interesting. I've never tried that. Maybe
01:23:37,800 --> 01:23:40,840
I'll try something to give it a try. Is it?
01:23:40,840 --> 01:23:45,480
Cool. Well, I think that's all the questions then. Thanks for joining me today.
01:23:45,480 --> 01:23:47,720
Thanks for having me. I want to let people know where they can find
01:23:47,720 --> 01:23:55,720
you, your Instagram, YouTube, stuff like that. Yeah, you can Sophia Yokoyama, Instagram, YouTube.
01:23:55,720 --> 01:24:01,000
And I'll keep you guys updated on the training app.
01:24:01,000 --> 01:24:05,200
I was on Facebook, but I mean, I still am on Facebook, but no one uses Facebook anymore.
01:24:05,200 --> 01:24:10,320
So I don't need Facebook. Okay. Okay. Cool. Awesome. And yeah, hopefully
01:24:10,320 --> 01:24:13,080
the training plan stuff works out. Thank you.
01:24:13,080 --> 01:24:16,240
Okay. Thank you. It was amazing to talk to you.
01:24:16,240 --> 01:24:19,440
Likewise. Thank you so much for making it to the end
01:24:19,440 --> 01:24:24,920
of the podcast. Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed. Otherwise you are a super
01:24:24,920 --> 01:24:30,120
big climber. If you're listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate if you rate it five
01:24:30,120 --> 01:24:35,720
stars and you can continue the discussion on the free competition climbing discord linked
01:24:35,720 --> 01:25:03,360
in the description. Thanks again for listening.