60: Samuel Richard, French New School Bouldering

00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:02.540
Have you ever felt fear ever while you're competing?

00:00:02.720 --> 00:00:06.459
No, no, actually not that much because my brain

00:00:06.459 --> 00:00:09.839
is kind of on off mode when I do this kind of

00:00:09.839 --> 00:00:13.980
stuff. I actually live with Mejdi, so he's my

00:00:13.980 --> 00:00:17.660
roommate. And Mejdi is like the man who is the

00:00:17.660 --> 00:00:22.660
most locked in the whole circuit. As a competitor,

00:00:22.780 --> 00:00:25.839
our routine and our lifestyle to optimize everything

00:00:25.839 --> 00:00:29.879
to perform on a comp has never been. pushed like

00:00:29.879 --> 00:00:34.039
this in a outdoor climbing i would say i wouldn't

00:00:34.039 --> 00:00:38.420
say i'm that attached to climbing and maybe at

00:00:38.420 --> 00:00:42.920
some point i will change sports welcome to another

00:00:42.920 --> 00:00:45.179
episode of the that's not real climbing podcast

00:00:45.179 --> 00:00:48.119
i'm your host Jinni and i'm excited to introduce

00:00:48.119 --> 00:00:51.380
my guest for today samuel richard Sam is an 18

00:00:51.380 --> 00:00:53.920
-year -old French boulder who just recently won

00:00:53.920 --> 00:00:56.659
bronze at the 2026 Madrid World Climbing Series.

00:00:57.100 --> 00:00:59.719
You may also know him as the youngest person

00:00:59.719 --> 00:01:03.119
to ever do V17 outdoors. In this episode, we'll

00:01:03.119 --> 00:01:05.459
get insight into the world of new school climbing,

00:01:05.719 --> 00:01:09.260
how regimented routines and being locked in could

00:01:09.260 --> 00:01:12.280
push climbing further than ever before, and how

00:01:12.280 --> 00:01:14.459
he may want to just give up climbing one day.

00:01:14.819 --> 00:01:20.099
I hope you enjoy this episode with Sam. Thank

00:01:20.099 --> 00:01:28.469
you. Please pardon this brief intermission, but

00:01:28.469 --> 00:01:31.090
let me tell you about Mad Rock's Remora Pro.

00:01:31.310 --> 00:01:34.329
You can now see several pros wearing Mad Rock

00:01:34.329 --> 00:01:37.790
shoes during competitions, and here's why. If

00:01:37.790 --> 00:01:39.849
you like being able to feel the chips you're

00:01:39.849 --> 00:01:42.629
standing on, and you like not having to worry

00:01:42.629 --> 00:01:46.349
about standing on sketchy volumes, then the Remora

00:01:46.349 --> 00:01:49.409
Pro is Mad Rock's softest, aggressive shoe offering.

00:01:49.750 --> 00:01:52.930
They also have a crazy 3D heel that allows you

00:01:52.930 --> 00:01:56.290
to get more surface area when heel hooking, inserts

00:01:56.290 --> 00:01:59.069
that lock your heel into the shoe no matter how

00:01:59.069 --> 00:02:02.670
hard you're pulling. Feel free to message me

00:02:02.670 --> 00:02:05.269
if you have any questions about the shoes or

00:02:05.269 --> 00:02:08.830
sizing, and you can use the discount code NotRealClimber

00:02:08.830 --> 00:02:12.729
for 10 % off your entire Mad Rock order. Thank

00:02:12.729 --> 00:02:15.349
you to Mad Rock for helping to sponsor this podcast.

00:02:15.469 --> 00:02:18.229
Now back to the show. By the way, I know that.

00:02:18.590 --> 00:02:21.409
Matt pronounces your name as just like Samuel

00:02:21.409 --> 00:02:24.370
Richard. But I guess I was surprised about that

00:02:24.370 --> 00:02:25.909
considering it's like a French name. And then

00:02:25.909 --> 00:02:27.849
I also saw some YouTube comments wondering about

00:02:27.849 --> 00:02:31.090
it. So is that like how you prefer it to be pronounced

00:02:31.090 --> 00:02:34.930
in English? I don't care actually. For me, it's

00:02:34.930 --> 00:02:38.469
just Sam. Sam would be great. Okay, cool. Sounds

00:02:38.469 --> 00:02:41.110
good. Okay, well then, first of all, congrats

00:02:41.110 --> 00:02:42.870
on your bronze medal in Madrid. That was super

00:02:42.870 --> 00:02:46.069
cool to see. How are you doing today? Are you

00:02:46.069 --> 00:02:48.789
like relieved to get a break? three back -to

00:02:48.789 --> 00:02:51.189
-back weekends is kind of crazy. Yeah, yeah.

00:02:51.430 --> 00:02:54.370
Actually, yeah, I'm a bit relieved because more

00:02:54.370 --> 00:02:59.370
mentally and physically it was hard to do the

00:02:59.370 --> 00:03:02.770
whole thing. But yeah, it was kind of interesting

00:03:02.770 --> 00:03:05.490
because I never did three comps in a row and

00:03:05.490 --> 00:03:08.469
especially three World Cups already in a season.

00:03:08.550 --> 00:03:12.610
So it's all new for me, but it's cool to experience

00:03:12.610 --> 00:03:16.080
it. Yeah, is this like an abnormal schedule?

00:03:16.280 --> 00:03:18.319
Like I don't remember there being so many back

00:03:18.319 --> 00:03:21.800
-to -back competitions. No, no, it never has

00:03:21.800 --> 00:03:24.740
been that dense, I would say. Because normally

00:03:24.740 --> 00:03:29.080
we have at least one week after every comp. Already

00:03:29.080 --> 00:03:33.580
two comps in three days of interval, we say.

00:03:33.780 --> 00:03:37.719
Yeah, three days after it's kind of hard. Yeah.

00:03:37.879 --> 00:03:40.719
Okay. It's pretty tiring. Yeah, I can't imagine,

00:03:40.780 --> 00:03:43.020
especially for people who are doing both boulder

00:03:43.020 --> 00:03:46.099
and lead. I don't know how they do it. What does

00:03:46.099 --> 00:03:49.639
your climbing or rest look like in between when

00:03:49.639 --> 00:03:52.740
you have back -to -back competitions? Actually,

00:03:52.819 --> 00:03:57.340
it depends if you did the semis or not. Because

00:03:57.340 --> 00:04:00.740
if you didn't do semis, you have two rest days

00:04:00.740 --> 00:04:03.500
after the qualification. So I would say that

00:04:03.500 --> 00:04:06.240
I would have climbed maybe the day of the semis.

00:04:06.780 --> 00:04:11.139
But then, as I did all the semis, I was just

00:04:11.139 --> 00:04:15.080
taking one rest day after the semis, so the day

00:04:15.080 --> 00:04:20.360
after, then one small warm -up and I would say

00:04:20.360 --> 00:04:23.819
one, two, three tries of intense boulder, and

00:04:23.819 --> 00:04:26.060
then I was just stopping and resting the other

00:04:26.060 --> 00:04:30.279
day. The comp was the day after, so just small

00:04:30.279 --> 00:04:33.819
activation. Does it make you nervous at all to

00:04:33.819 --> 00:04:36.579
not have a full climbing session in between?

00:04:37.079 --> 00:04:39.680
No, because you feel a bit tired and everything.

00:04:40.339 --> 00:04:43.899
If it was just up to me, I wouldn't climb because,

00:04:44.060 --> 00:04:47.079
I don't know, you're so tired. You don't want

00:04:47.079 --> 00:04:49.879
to warm or everything, but it's perfect to put

00:04:49.879 --> 00:04:53.379
a bit of intensity before the comp. That's good

00:04:53.379 --> 00:04:56.500
to hear. So you're a big fan of resting. yeah

00:04:56.500 --> 00:04:59.620
not a big fan but when i'm tired yeah i know

00:04:59.620 --> 00:05:03.720
i need some rest so yeah i prefer this uh this

00:05:03.720 --> 00:05:05.720
period where you train a lot and you have like

00:05:05.720 --> 00:05:08.540
two sessions in a day for the whole winter but

00:05:08.540 --> 00:05:11.740
then when it comes to comp i know i'm in shape

00:05:11.740 --> 00:05:15.360
if i rest so i want to be in shape yeah that

00:05:15.360 --> 00:05:18.360
makes sense so thinking back to the past few

00:05:18.360 --> 00:05:22.019
comps how do you feel about it Yeah, pretty cool

00:05:22.019 --> 00:05:26.220
actually. I wouldn't have considered to do a

00:05:26.220 --> 00:05:31.500
back -to -back podium after last year because

00:05:31.500 --> 00:05:36.180
I was feeling good at training but not as good

00:05:36.180 --> 00:05:41.040
as I wanted. So yeah, it's kind of crazy to...

00:05:41.709 --> 00:05:44.750
to have done podium, but I'm happy. Oh, okay.

00:05:45.050 --> 00:05:49.089
And I'm really happy about the fact that I climbed

00:05:49.089 --> 00:05:52.050
really well on the three comps, actually. Like,

00:05:52.050 --> 00:05:54.250
besides the results, I really feel I gave my

00:05:54.250 --> 00:05:58.610
all on everyone, so it's pretty cool. So, like,

00:05:58.610 --> 00:06:01.050
during training, I guess, with, like, other competitors,

00:06:01.170 --> 00:06:03.930
you kind of felt like you weren't podium ready?

00:06:06.110 --> 00:06:10.319
It's more than I... didn't feel it's just that

00:06:10.319 --> 00:06:13.300
it's so dense in here and as the last year it

00:06:13.300 --> 00:06:16.899
feels like more and more dense and it's hard

00:06:16.899 --> 00:06:21.160
to picture yourself on a podium when it's that

00:06:21.160 --> 00:06:25.180
tense but that's why I kind of like just think

00:06:25.180 --> 00:06:28.740
about how I will do to perform my best and I

00:06:28.740 --> 00:06:32.860
just put the results on the on the side and just

00:06:32.860 --> 00:06:35.660
focusing on my climb so I would say I didn't

00:06:35.660 --> 00:06:39.600
expect it because I wasn't visualizing it i would

00:06:39.600 --> 00:06:43.500
say when you were in madrid when you did get

00:06:43.500 --> 00:06:46.980
uh your bronze medal did you not know that you

00:06:46.980 --> 00:06:48.779
already had a medal when you went on the last

00:06:48.779 --> 00:06:52.079
finals boulder yeah no i didn't know for me it

00:06:52.079 --> 00:06:55.819
was like i knew i was maybe a bit ahead because

00:06:55.819 --> 00:07:00.100
i had the zone but uh i didn't know if i needed

00:07:00.100 --> 00:07:02.660
the zone or the top to do uh to do the podium

00:07:02.660 --> 00:07:06.639
so i was like uh so focused before the world

00:07:06.639 --> 00:07:10.019
yeah and the coach didn't like told me by uh

00:07:10.019 --> 00:07:12.759
but they they didn't tell me when i said they

00:07:12.759 --> 00:07:17.459
told me i i didn't uh i'd say yeah i realized

00:07:17.459 --> 00:07:20.100
that i was already on the podium and so i gave

00:07:20.100 --> 00:07:23.439
my all to have the zone i almost i put my head

00:07:23.439 --> 00:07:27.120
on oh my god yeah that was crazy and then then

00:07:27.120 --> 00:07:30.160
when i uh when i felt i asked like if he was

00:07:30.160 --> 00:07:33.240
good or not to the coaches they said yes so i

00:07:33.240 --> 00:07:37.660
was happy it was nice yeah i mean you didn't

00:07:37.660 --> 00:07:40.319
even need to get the zone so yeah no no that's

00:07:40.319 --> 00:07:43.399
why but it's always good uh actually my mindset

00:07:43.399 --> 00:07:46.920
on the comp it's uh to fight until the the last

00:07:46.920 --> 00:07:49.399
the last try you know even if it doesn't change

00:07:49.399 --> 00:07:52.459
anything on the results this capability to fight

00:07:52.459 --> 00:07:56.540
uh every time will pay off for sure after. So

00:07:56.540 --> 00:08:00.399
even if it's not now in the results, it will

00:08:00.399 --> 00:08:05.579
be on maybe the general or the years to come.

00:08:05.620 --> 00:08:08.699
So I prefer to fight. Yeah, it was cool to see.

00:08:09.699 --> 00:08:12.680
So like back in ISO, you don't have any information

00:08:12.680 --> 00:08:14.879
about the scores. Because I swear, I feel like

00:08:14.879 --> 00:08:17.500
sometimes athletes say like, oh, I knew I had

00:08:17.500 --> 00:08:20.379
to get a zone or a top or whatever. So now I'm

00:08:20.379 --> 00:08:22.060
like confused because I thought there was nothing

00:08:22.060 --> 00:08:27.319
in ISO that you could see. Normally, there was

00:08:27.319 --> 00:08:31.120
the scoreboard results. You could ask for results.

00:08:31.379 --> 00:08:35.279
But like the two years in Prague, La Cie and

00:08:35.279 --> 00:08:39.620
now in Madrid, there wasn't the results. So maybe

00:08:39.620 --> 00:08:41.299
I could have asked for it, but I don't want to

00:08:41.299 --> 00:08:43.919
know actually. So it's better for me. Interesting.

00:08:44.000 --> 00:08:46.960
So it changes from comp to comp if you can see

00:08:46.960 --> 00:08:50.639
results? I don't know because... Yeah, I would

00:08:50.639 --> 00:08:54.340
say yes because I know sometimes maybe it's telling

00:08:54.340 --> 00:08:57.700
me that there will be risks behind or not. So

00:08:57.700 --> 00:09:00.320
I don't know what the rules about it. Oh, wow.

00:09:00.440 --> 00:09:02.440
I had no idea. That's actually really confusing.

00:09:03.419 --> 00:09:07.919
Okay. Yeah, for me too. Yeah, doesn't that kind

00:09:07.919 --> 00:09:11.399
of like throw you off? I guess if you never look

00:09:11.399 --> 00:09:13.580
anyway, then it doesn't matter to you. But if

00:09:13.580 --> 00:09:15.720
you are someone who likes to look at the results,

00:09:15.740 --> 00:09:18.240
I feel like that would make me really confused.

00:09:19.329 --> 00:09:21.769
Yeah, actually, I never question myself because

00:09:21.769 --> 00:09:24.629
I really don't want to know the results. When

00:09:24.629 --> 00:09:27.309
I focus on the results, I'm not focused on my

00:09:27.309 --> 00:09:30.710
climb. So I don't know, prefer to focus on my

00:09:30.710 --> 00:09:34.049
climb. Yeah, yeah, that makes sense. OK, so then

00:09:34.049 --> 00:09:36.129
getting into your background of how you started

00:09:36.129 --> 00:09:38.509
climbing, it sounds like you came from a climbing

00:09:38.509 --> 00:09:41.509
family. Yeah, yeah. My dad is a climbing teacher,

00:09:41.649 --> 00:09:45.450
so I always climbed. What's your first climbing

00:09:45.450 --> 00:09:51.049
memory? I would say it would be in a gym in Grenoble,

00:09:51.149 --> 00:09:54.870
where I was born. But I was like one and a half,

00:09:55.009 --> 00:09:59.750
maybe two. Wow. And I started to do some... My

00:09:59.750 --> 00:10:03.090
dad put me on the lead, so I was like, I need

00:10:03.090 --> 00:10:08.330
to go. In my memories, I've always climbed, so

00:10:08.330 --> 00:10:11.350
I don't have a really first memory. You actually

00:10:11.350 --> 00:10:14.669
remember climbing at two years old? Yeah, that's

00:10:14.669 --> 00:10:18.289
for sure. I exactly see the scene where I have

00:10:18.289 --> 00:10:21.529
my harness, you know, this one. And I can remember

00:10:21.529 --> 00:10:24.710
because I have the picture too, so it's really

00:10:24.710 --> 00:10:26.929
funny. See, I feel like your memory is coming

00:10:26.929 --> 00:10:28.970
from the picture and not actually your own memory.

00:10:28.970 --> 00:10:32.129
Yeah, maybe, maybe it is, but I don't know, like,

00:10:32.190 --> 00:10:36.730
I really can see the scene, so it's funny. Was

00:10:36.730 --> 00:10:39.919
your dad also your coach growing up? I wouldn't

00:10:39.919 --> 00:10:43.080
say my coach because I wasn't properly training

00:10:43.080 --> 00:10:47.480
until we moved to Valence when I was 9 or 10.

00:10:48.120 --> 00:10:53.120
But he was the guy who was carrying me to the

00:10:53.120 --> 00:10:57.919
cliff and we were climbing together. So when

00:10:57.919 --> 00:11:01.629
you were 9, he also wasn't coaching you? no no

00:11:01.629 --> 00:11:04.590
he was uh carrying me to the gym and we were

00:11:04.590 --> 00:11:07.590
climbing together but when i uh went to valence

00:11:07.590 --> 00:11:11.230
i entered the valence club and there there was

00:11:11.230 --> 00:11:15.909
some coaches so they did my uh my training did

00:11:15.909 --> 00:11:18.370
he like did you not want him as your coach or

00:11:18.370 --> 00:11:20.730
it's just like convenient to have someone there

00:11:20.730 --> 00:11:25.350
yeah yeah I don't know. He was always coming

00:11:25.350 --> 00:11:27.429
to the comps for the first comps and everything.

00:11:27.610 --> 00:11:31.990
So when I moved to Valence, the club was... I

00:11:31.990 --> 00:11:36.029
was in the elite group, I would say. So we were

00:11:36.029 --> 00:11:38.370
kind of obligated to do comps and I never did

00:11:38.370 --> 00:11:40.990
and never considered to do comps before. And

00:11:40.990 --> 00:11:44.009
I went and I kind of liked it and I was like,

00:11:44.070 --> 00:11:46.529
OK, I want to do more. And so my dad was always

00:11:46.529 --> 00:11:50.129
coming with me and giving me advice on the comp

00:11:50.129 --> 00:11:53.139
because he was there. I would say he was kind

00:11:53.139 --> 00:11:56.240
of coaching me at this moment in comps. But then

00:11:56.240 --> 00:12:00.720
more I did comps, more it was the club coaches

00:12:00.720 --> 00:12:04.700
who were giving advice and everything. So that

00:12:04.700 --> 00:12:07.700
came apart like this. All right. Why didn't you

00:12:07.700 --> 00:12:10.220
have an interest in competing at first? Because

00:12:10.220 --> 00:12:12.940
my dad was educating me like climbing outside.

00:12:13.120 --> 00:12:16.669
We just did rock climbing for... until i was

00:12:16.669 --> 00:12:19.490
nine or ten and even even after when i started

00:12:19.490 --> 00:12:22.230
competing i was more focused on the work claiming

00:12:22.230 --> 00:12:26.549
that and then the than the comps but as i was

00:12:26.549 --> 00:12:29.370
training a bit more and i was like performing

00:12:29.370 --> 00:12:31.690
a bit better because i was doing more comps and

00:12:31.690 --> 00:12:34.009
training more i was like okay it's interesting

00:12:34.009 --> 00:12:37.230
and i don't know at some point i was like i want

00:12:37.230 --> 00:12:39.590
to do more of this and train more of this so

00:12:40.409 --> 00:12:42.629
I put the rock climbing aside. We'll definitely

00:12:42.629 --> 00:12:45.629
get into your rock climbing portion a bit more

00:12:45.629 --> 00:12:49.110
towards the end of the episode. But for now,

00:12:49.210 --> 00:12:51.350
there's a lot of different things that you have

00:12:51.350 --> 00:12:54.350
to work on for competing. I can't really tell

00:12:54.350 --> 00:12:57.110
based on watching what your strengths and weaknesses

00:12:57.110 --> 00:12:59.649
are. Do you feel like you have strengths and

00:12:59.649 --> 00:13:01.250
weaknesses or are you just kind of all around?

00:13:01.870 --> 00:13:06.090
I think I have some really specific strengths

00:13:06.090 --> 00:13:09.490
and weaknesses. But I would say my biggest strength

00:13:09.490 --> 00:13:13.269
is that I'm really polyvalent. I can almost do

00:13:13.269 --> 00:13:15.870
hard stuff on everything. I'm good on slab, I'm

00:13:15.870 --> 00:13:19.429
good on coordination, I'm good physically. But

00:13:19.429 --> 00:13:23.169
I would say physically, there is a really specific

00:13:23.169 --> 00:13:25.730
type of move where I'm really good. It's all

00:13:25.730 --> 00:13:28.610
these powerful moves where you go to correct

00:13:28.610 --> 00:13:33.409
holds between... 16 to 18 millimeters crimps

00:13:33.409 --> 00:13:37.169
and it's just about getting like really far on

00:13:37.169 --> 00:13:42.269
a good on medium or average crimps. I'm good

00:13:42.269 --> 00:13:45.169
on this and I would say I'm good on campusing

00:13:45.169 --> 00:13:49.470
too. Like when it's just you go far on thing

00:13:49.470 --> 00:13:53.669
actually. Kind of powerful. And then not so bad

00:13:53.669 --> 00:13:57.169
on coordination too when I really got the timing

00:13:57.169 --> 00:14:00.519
but it depends. What about weaknesses? Does anything

00:14:00.519 --> 00:14:03.259
you like go out and see a boulder and it makes

00:14:03.259 --> 00:14:06.580
you feel nervous? I would say I'm not that relaxed

00:14:06.580 --> 00:14:10.659
on slab and comps. So I'm not that good on slab.

00:14:11.320 --> 00:14:17.080
But at training, it's kind of the thing I prefer

00:14:17.080 --> 00:14:21.039
to train on. So I'm not that bad too. It's just

00:14:21.039 --> 00:14:24.139
about getting relaxed a bit. And more than just

00:14:24.139 --> 00:14:27.879
a type of boulder, I would say it's... The observation,

00:14:28.100 --> 00:14:32.200
I'm so bad at. I can't read a book. Okay. So

00:14:32.200 --> 00:14:35.220
you think you always get the beta wrong? I don't

00:14:35.220 --> 00:14:37.559
always get the beta wrong, but most of the time,

00:14:37.580 --> 00:14:40.279
yeah. Yeah. I don't know. How do you work on

00:14:40.279 --> 00:14:42.500
that? I'm also struggling with that a lot. I

00:14:42.500 --> 00:14:44.659
usually get the beta wrong, so I'm not sure how

00:14:44.659 --> 00:14:48.639
to fix it. I would say it's about reading more

00:14:48.639 --> 00:14:53.139
at training, actually. If you start to read all

00:14:53.139 --> 00:14:56.289
the boulders you're training, maybe it's... it's

00:14:56.289 --> 00:14:59.149
gonna get better but i hope because it's my strategy

00:14:59.149 --> 00:15:02.889
right now so i need to fix to stick to it okay

00:15:02.889 --> 00:15:06.149
we'll work on it together um how do you feel

00:15:06.149 --> 00:15:10.070
like um the setting in prague last year and the

00:15:10.070 --> 00:15:12.250
setting in madrid this year do you feel like

00:15:12.250 --> 00:15:15.370
they played into your strengths or it's just

00:15:15.370 --> 00:15:19.210
like your good days i don't know like uh last

00:15:19.210 --> 00:15:21.990
year was more uh coordination stuff and everything

00:15:21.990 --> 00:15:25.629
so uh At this moment, I wasn't as strong as I

00:15:25.629 --> 00:15:29.649
am physically. And I don't think I would have

00:15:29.649 --> 00:15:33.690
been on the top in the final if it was more physical

00:15:33.690 --> 00:15:38.389
or more technical. But this style really suited

00:15:38.389 --> 00:15:42.190
me because it was just timing coordination where

00:15:42.190 --> 00:15:46.909
we trained a lot. But yeah, this year in Prague,

00:15:46.970 --> 00:15:50.549
it was okay. It's just I couldn't, after the

00:15:50.549 --> 00:15:53.980
two weeks and after Madrid 2, i couldn't really

00:15:53.980 --> 00:15:57.539
push mentally i was feeling so tired in the head

00:15:57.539 --> 00:15:59.860
and it was hard to like put everything together

00:15:59.860 --> 00:16:03.500
so and especially on this kind of folders like

00:16:03.500 --> 00:16:05.779
when it's technical you really need to think

00:16:05.779 --> 00:16:11.139
and to uh to get the sensations right so i think

00:16:11.139 --> 00:16:14.440
it's yeah i was tired so that didn't help yeah

00:16:14.440 --> 00:16:16.740
that makes sense especially being like one of

00:16:16.740 --> 00:16:20.340
the super young climbers um you kind of grew

00:16:20.340 --> 00:16:22.960
up in a time where these like new school moves

00:16:22.960 --> 00:16:25.860
and big coordination moves like we saw in Prague

00:16:25.860 --> 00:16:30.580
um became super common so do you still like feel

00:16:30.580 --> 00:16:33.100
fear when you're doing these kinds of big coordination

00:16:33.100 --> 00:16:37.179
moves no no actually yeah I always grew up with

00:16:37.179 --> 00:16:40.379
a coordination so I wasn't that good when I was

00:16:40.379 --> 00:16:43.500
young because uh yeah I was coming from rock

00:16:43.500 --> 00:16:46.360
climbing so it was hard to adapt uh it's been

00:16:46.360 --> 00:16:48.779
now almost four years that i'm training with

00:16:48.779 --> 00:16:53.740
uh with mejdi most of the time so it kind of

00:16:53.740 --> 00:16:56.840
push you when you have the best uh the best coordination

00:16:56.840 --> 00:17:00.559
guy in the in the circuit to get better on coordination

00:17:00.559 --> 00:17:03.720
and uh him and i don't know if you know kito

00:17:03.720 --> 00:17:07.109
martini the french claim to who was french champion

00:17:07.109 --> 00:17:10.329
in 24 and him and kito are like the strongest

00:17:10.329 --> 00:17:12.950
in coordination i've ever seen like kito is so

00:17:12.950 --> 00:17:15.319
strong too And they always gave me some advice

00:17:15.319 --> 00:17:19.579
for getting better. What's the best advice for

00:17:19.579 --> 00:17:22.180
getting better at coordination moves? Each one

00:17:22.180 --> 00:17:24.819
is so different, so I don't think you can give

00:17:24.819 --> 00:17:28.559
the same advice for each one. But if you have

00:17:28.559 --> 00:17:32.400
a general thing. I would say we always try to

00:17:32.400 --> 00:17:38.180
go quick on the coordination and to go directly

00:17:38.180 --> 00:17:40.400
on the other move because we want everything

00:17:40.400 --> 00:17:45.210
to go quick. And the most important for me is

00:17:45.210 --> 00:17:51.910
to really divide the coordination in a lot of

00:17:51.910 --> 00:17:54.849
parts, you know. First move, if you have like

00:17:54.849 --> 00:17:58.829
a paddle who is doing that and then like this,

00:17:58.950 --> 00:18:01.869
I would say, you think about the first move,

00:18:01.990 --> 00:18:04.990
you try to stop on it. It's not possible to stop,

00:18:05.029 --> 00:18:06.829
so you need to go to the other move. You try

00:18:06.829 --> 00:18:09.529
to stop on it and it's reducing the swing a lot.

00:18:10.299 --> 00:18:13.059
and on most part of the on most of coordination

00:18:13.059 --> 00:18:16.039
it's it's helping a lot because you have less

00:18:16.039 --> 00:18:19.180
swing if you try to stop the more you can even

00:18:19.180 --> 00:18:22.940
if you continue to to go yeah it's a bit hard

00:18:22.940 --> 00:18:25.960
to explain because uh you really need to have

00:18:25.960 --> 00:18:29.500
a bullet to to see perfectly so basically like

00:18:29.500 --> 00:18:32.539
trying to hold the hold even though you know

00:18:32.539 --> 00:18:35.160
you can't hold it yeah exactly the more you can

00:18:35.160 --> 00:18:37.740
so you can reduce a bit the swing and you can

00:18:38.539 --> 00:18:42.519
direct your body to the other part of the coordination.

00:18:42.859 --> 00:18:46.700
It was actually, if we take an example, it was

00:18:46.700 --> 00:18:50.500
like the same in Madrid. You know, the coordination

00:18:50.500 --> 00:18:53.900
where starting in the corner, you took a big

00:18:53.900 --> 00:18:56.279
hold and then you were going in a compression.

00:18:56.559 --> 00:18:59.140
Oh yeah, the blind one. Compression on two volumes.

00:18:59.339 --> 00:19:02.859
And the guys that didn't do the zone were...

00:19:03.109 --> 00:19:06.410
When they were going on the first hold, they

00:19:06.410 --> 00:19:08.329
were pulling straight away to go to the compression,

00:19:08.589 --> 00:19:11.890
but they weren't in the world enough to compress,

00:19:12.009 --> 00:19:15.430
and it was too hard to hold. What I really tried

00:19:15.430 --> 00:19:19.410
to do is keeping the first hold the more I can,

00:19:19.529 --> 00:19:22.490
and then my swing was reduced a bit, and I could

00:19:22.490 --> 00:19:25.730
hold the compression. Yeah, you could swing your

00:19:25.730 --> 00:19:28.630
body around from the corner. Yeah, exactly. I

00:19:28.630 --> 00:19:33.170
think coordination... especially in comps sometimes

00:19:33.170 --> 00:19:36.789
it's like super high up have you ever felt scared

00:19:36.789 --> 00:19:39.410
during a competition like doing these kinds of

00:19:39.410 --> 00:19:42.769
moves have you ever felt fear ever during while

00:19:42.769 --> 00:19:45.750
you're competing no no actually not that much

00:19:45.750 --> 00:19:49.309
because uh in in comps and in climbing actually

00:19:49.309 --> 00:19:52.569
i i like adrenaline and everything and my brain

00:19:52.569 --> 00:19:57.170
is kind of uh like uh on off mode when i do this

00:19:57.170 --> 00:20:00.660
kind of stuff i'm just concentrate on what I

00:20:00.660 --> 00:20:03.000
can do for doing the moves I don't care if it's

00:20:03.000 --> 00:20:08.359
at 4 meters or 10 yeah I don't care as long as

00:20:08.359 --> 00:20:11.359
I do the move and it's kind of the more dangerous

00:20:11.359 --> 00:20:14.980
is to half commit on this kind of move because

00:20:14.980 --> 00:20:18.140
if you go like full on it it's not that dangerous

00:20:18.140 --> 00:20:21.279
because you can fall properly but when you hesitate

00:20:21.279 --> 00:20:24.440
you can maybe sleep or miss a hole and then the

00:20:24.440 --> 00:20:27.599
fall is not the same and that's what we see in

00:20:28.039 --> 00:20:31.819
like customers claim claiming it's like they

00:20:31.819 --> 00:20:34.619
don't want to commit so they go like half the

00:20:34.619 --> 00:20:36.940
way and they don't know how to fall so injured

00:20:36.940 --> 00:20:41.380
i do not fear fear or feel fear a lot in court

00:20:41.380 --> 00:20:44.650
actually Yeah, that makes sense. I think also

00:20:44.650 --> 00:20:48.210
comparing climbing to back in the day, not that

00:20:48.210 --> 00:20:50.089
I was really involved in the climbing scene back

00:20:50.089 --> 00:20:53.210
in the day, but it sounds like at least dirtbagging

00:20:53.210 --> 00:20:56.109
was a big thing. Has that ever been your lifestyle

00:20:56.109 --> 00:20:59.609
or are you strict with your routine? Not so much.

00:21:00.430 --> 00:21:02.829
When I was younger a bit, because I was going

00:21:02.829 --> 00:21:07.750
to school and everything, I wasn't sleeping that

00:21:07.750 --> 00:21:12.720
much, but now... No, no, I'm fully locked in.

00:21:12.980 --> 00:21:16.539
I actually live with Majdi, so he's my roommate.

00:21:16.759 --> 00:21:21.599
And Majdi is like the man who is the most locked

00:21:21.599 --> 00:21:25.680
in in the whole circuit. So it's, yeah, just

00:21:25.680 --> 00:21:28.980
going his way because, I don't know, I prepare

00:21:28.980 --> 00:21:31.519
my lifestyle this way. I feel better when I do

00:21:31.519 --> 00:21:34.839
everything right. So you have like very strict

00:21:34.839 --> 00:21:41.079
sleep routines, diet routines, rest. Yeah, actually,

00:21:41.500 --> 00:21:44.880
yeah. I always sleep at the same time. We have

00:21:44.880 --> 00:21:49.539
all of the routine already, I would say. We always

00:21:49.539 --> 00:21:51.799
do the same stuff when we are in Fontainebleau

00:21:51.799 --> 00:21:54.579
because we live in Fontainebleau. So it's basically

00:21:54.579 --> 00:21:58.400
sleeping early, always at the same time, going

00:21:58.400 --> 00:22:02.640
walking a bit in the morning, eating our kiwi.

00:22:03.259 --> 00:22:05.799
Okay. This kind of stuff, you know. Yeah, I'm

00:22:05.799 --> 00:22:09.539
just like kind of curious what... your like daily

00:22:09.539 --> 00:22:13.000
training routine looks like uh so actually we

00:22:13.000 --> 00:22:16.579
are like training when it's winter training i

00:22:16.579 --> 00:22:19.500
would say we are training two times a day five

00:22:19.500 --> 00:22:25.920
times a week we do two two sessions per week

00:22:25.920 --> 00:22:28.559
like physical training where we do pull -ups

00:22:28.559 --> 00:22:34.059
dips and some over -reining and some powerful

00:22:34.059 --> 00:22:39.509
powerful not powerful what's the name of this

00:22:39.509 --> 00:22:45.450
already uh gulish uh campus oh okay yeah campus

00:22:45.450 --> 00:22:49.809
board no so that's one of the session then we

00:22:49.809 --> 00:22:53.970
do two or three times a week pre -roll and just

00:22:53.970 --> 00:22:57.309
a specific boulder training for the rest so you

00:22:57.309 --> 00:23:00.250
guys actually do like physical do you do like

00:23:00.250 --> 00:23:03.230
strength and conditioning with like weights or

00:23:03.230 --> 00:23:06.990
yeah it's A bit of conditioning, but only on

00:23:06.990 --> 00:23:13.329
pull -ups and dips. Just one -arm pull -up, two

00:23:13.329 --> 00:23:16.670
-arms pull -ups, dips, and over -wringing with

00:23:16.670 --> 00:23:20.529
weight, except that we don't do that much conditioning.

00:23:20.950 --> 00:23:24.630
Yeah, I'm wondering because I think based on

00:23:24.630 --> 00:23:27.230
seeing the past few comps, it seems like the

00:23:27.230 --> 00:23:30.289
French team especially kind of powers out on

00:23:30.289 --> 00:23:32.450
boulders. Do you feel like that's kind of the

00:23:32.450 --> 00:23:38.220
case? It depends, but I feel better and better

00:23:38.220 --> 00:23:42.599
physically. And that year, it really helped because

00:23:42.599 --> 00:23:46.500
I changed coaches and we went more to basic stuff

00:23:46.500 --> 00:23:50.000
like just pull -ups and dips and the spray wall

00:23:50.000 --> 00:23:53.259
a lot, much more than last year. So I feel better

00:23:53.259 --> 00:23:56.180
physically, but I will still say that in France,

00:23:56.240 --> 00:24:00.319
it's our issue. We need to get stronger, for

00:24:00.319 --> 00:24:03.420
sure. But we need to climb better, actually.

00:24:03.839 --> 00:24:07.279
on the physical borders. If you see Serato climbing,

00:24:07.460 --> 00:24:10.259
don't do any mistakes when you climb straight

00:24:10.259 --> 00:24:13.880
to the point. There's something different about

00:24:13.880 --> 00:24:17.599
Serato that I really can't put my finger on.

00:24:18.599 --> 00:24:22.000
Yeah, it really just seems like a sloper skin

00:24:22.000 --> 00:24:26.150
kind of thing. Yeah, I don't know. We are trying

00:24:26.150 --> 00:24:30.930
to elucidate what's his secret to it. So back

00:24:30.930 --> 00:24:33.490
to the French team, one of the audience questions

00:24:33.490 --> 00:24:35.890
that came in was how does French team selection

00:24:35.890 --> 00:24:40.589
work? So when you are selected for the team,

00:24:40.769 --> 00:24:46.470
you just pay 120 euros per World Cup and then

00:24:46.470 --> 00:24:51.289
they're dealing with everything except the lunch

00:24:51.289 --> 00:24:57.240
meal. So we're just not paying a lot. So normally

00:24:57.240 --> 00:24:58.940
when you're selected, you're going to the comp.

00:24:59.940 --> 00:25:02.440
Except if it's too much and you're a bit tired,

00:25:02.539 --> 00:25:07.859
you can pull out like Zillia did in Madrid. But

00:25:07.859 --> 00:25:10.819
normally everyone is doing the comps. And we

00:25:10.819 --> 00:25:13.240
all go together because the federation is dealing

00:25:13.240 --> 00:25:15.859
with the hotels and everything. So we all go

00:25:15.859 --> 00:25:19.079
together. We take the same plane and we're just

00:25:19.079 --> 00:25:22.740
following the coaches because they... They rent

00:25:22.740 --> 00:25:25.480
everything. And then I guess like making the

00:25:25.480 --> 00:25:30.299
French team, like what competitions go into deciding

00:25:30.299 --> 00:25:34.819
that? So there is a lot of criteria. So the first

00:25:34.819 --> 00:25:38.380
one is the pre -selected people, which in this

00:25:38.380 --> 00:25:41.400
case this year was the Mejdi and Orian for all

00:25:41.400 --> 00:25:44.119
the comps. Then you have the second group with

00:25:44.119 --> 00:25:48.119
me, Agathe and all the people that did the podium

00:25:48.119 --> 00:25:50.660
last year. We had the first three World Cups

00:25:50.660 --> 00:25:54.660
already. And then we have like the selection

00:25:54.660 --> 00:25:58.700
comps, like the nationals count. So the best

00:25:58.700 --> 00:26:01.299
one at nationals were... Ah no, no, actually

00:26:01.299 --> 00:26:03.640
this year it changed. So we have nationals and

00:26:03.640 --> 00:26:06.660
the French selective comp, which is a comp just

00:26:06.660 --> 00:26:12.039
open to the best to get in the team. And it was

00:26:12.039 --> 00:26:14.519
the combined results of these two comps who were

00:26:14.519 --> 00:26:18.400
doing a ranking. And based on the ranking, they

00:26:18.400 --> 00:26:21.079
fulfilled the last spot after the preselected

00:26:21.079 --> 00:26:24.930
people. So it's like, yeah. And then if there

00:26:24.930 --> 00:26:27.289
are some people that are pulling out, they take

00:26:27.289 --> 00:26:31.549
the lower rankings. Okay, so similar to the US,

00:26:31.650 --> 00:26:33.910
that makes sense. How difficult do you feel like

00:26:33.910 --> 00:26:39.549
the French nationals feel compared to the international

00:26:39.549 --> 00:26:44.349
circuit? I would say it's really dense. Maybe

00:26:44.349 --> 00:26:48.170
the Japanese, it's crazy dense too. So I would

00:26:48.170 --> 00:26:52.029
say we are the second most difficult nationals.

00:26:52.150 --> 00:26:54.869
But it's really different than the World Cups

00:26:54.869 --> 00:26:59.970
because usually it's on the shitty walls for

00:26:59.970 --> 00:27:03.470
me. Oh, okay. It's just vertical and slab and

00:27:03.470 --> 00:27:08.910
sometimes overhang, but not that much. Most of

00:27:08.910 --> 00:27:12.650
the time, it's more technical and sloppy than

00:27:12.650 --> 00:27:17.710
the other comps. And in France, we are the ones

00:27:17.710 --> 00:27:21.349
who are doing the difference in World Cups because

00:27:21.349 --> 00:27:24.470
we are physically stronger than the other French

00:27:24.470 --> 00:27:27.470
athletes. But most of the French athletes are

00:27:27.470 --> 00:27:31.210
at the same level technically than us. So it's

00:27:31.210 --> 00:27:36.460
crazy hard to... to compete in Nationals because

00:27:36.460 --> 00:27:39.359
it's just on slab and vertical normally. And

00:27:39.359 --> 00:27:42.299
everyone is at the same level on this kind of

00:27:42.299 --> 00:27:46.319
bulls. I mean, if Nationals is selecting for

00:27:46.319 --> 00:27:48.880
people who are technically best in slab and vert

00:27:48.880 --> 00:27:50.880
and then they go to World Cups, isn't it kind

00:27:50.880 --> 00:27:54.720
of like a punch in the face? It is, and that's

00:27:54.720 --> 00:27:58.319
why they did the combined results with the French

00:27:58.319 --> 00:28:05.279
selective comp because... The French team coaches

00:28:05.279 --> 00:28:09.900
can decide the type of boulders they want in

00:28:09.900 --> 00:28:14.559
the French selective comp. So they are putting

00:28:14.559 --> 00:28:18.400
some basics and just physical boulders so it

00:28:18.400 --> 00:28:20.400
can make the difference compared to nationals.

00:28:20.960 --> 00:28:24.640
It actually depends on the year for the nationals,

00:28:24.680 --> 00:28:27.839
but this year and the last year it was more like

00:28:27.839 --> 00:28:30.309
this because of the physical boulders. Either

00:28:30.309 --> 00:28:33.109
it's too easy or it doesn't work. And then it's

00:28:33.109 --> 00:28:35.529
just making the difference in slab. Can you explain

00:28:35.529 --> 00:28:38.269
the, what is it, the French selective comp a

00:28:38.269 --> 00:28:41.559
bit more? Yeah, so it's a comp on two rounds

00:28:41.559 --> 00:28:44.480
in the same day. Like we have a round in the

00:28:44.480 --> 00:28:46.859
morning and a round in the afternoon. And the

00:28:46.859 --> 00:28:50.619
first round is five boulders. It's like qualification

00:28:50.619 --> 00:28:54.759
for World Cup. The level is like this. And then

00:28:54.759 --> 00:28:59.220
we have like four or five rest and we have the

00:28:59.220 --> 00:29:02.779
second round, which is a semis with four boulders.

00:29:03.579 --> 00:29:06.000
Or five, it depends, but it's like semis level,

00:29:06.099 --> 00:29:09.960
so it's much harder. And they just take the,

00:29:10.039 --> 00:29:14.619
they do a World Cup rankings on every round and

00:29:14.619 --> 00:29:18.099
they're doing combined results in the two rounds.

00:29:18.339 --> 00:29:21.960
I heard that next year, so the Nationals will

00:29:21.960 --> 00:29:26.519
count for one comp and then the first round of

00:29:26.519 --> 00:29:29.200
the French Selective Contest will count as one

00:29:29.200 --> 00:29:31.680
comp and the second round too. So it will be

00:29:31.680 --> 00:29:33.440
like more on the French Selective Contest than

00:29:33.440 --> 00:29:37.009
on the Nationals. The points to select. and so

00:29:37.009 --> 00:29:39.069
you think they sent more like powerful stuff

00:29:39.069 --> 00:29:42.089
in that one the french yeah yeah for sure yeah

00:29:42.089 --> 00:29:45.569
because the they want also some people i can

00:29:45.569 --> 00:29:48.690
do the the physical borders in the world cup

00:29:48.690 --> 00:29:51.950
because uh starting from the quality just going

00:29:51.950 --> 00:29:55.009
straight to the to the end because they don't

00:29:55.009 --> 00:29:57.470
have much space so it's just right and left hand

00:29:57.470 --> 00:30:02.650
and the the the most physical guys are making

00:30:02.650 --> 00:30:06.619
it through most of the time But yeah, that's

00:30:06.619 --> 00:30:09.099
why they want to do this kind of style in this

00:30:09.099 --> 00:30:10.819
competition. You think the qualies round is like

00:30:10.819 --> 00:30:14.900
the most powerful physically? Yeah, I would say

00:30:14.900 --> 00:30:18.539
it depends the setting because yeah, it's the

00:30:18.539 --> 00:30:21.920
setting but most of the time the people that

00:30:21.920 --> 00:30:24.460
are winning qualies is the strongest so you can,

00:30:24.519 --> 00:30:27.819
based on that you can say that physically it

00:30:27.819 --> 00:30:31.599
makes the difference. Like it's never random

00:30:31.599 --> 00:30:35.839
when it's qualies, it's just it's easy to read

00:30:35.839 --> 00:30:39.279
because the boulders are not so like going to

00:30:39.279 --> 00:30:42.559
the right or the left and most of the time it's

00:30:42.559 --> 00:30:47.000
just harder physically and the slab and the small

00:30:47.000 --> 00:30:49.599
coordination can make a bit the difference but

00:30:49.599 --> 00:30:53.099
most of the time it's do you do the boulder you

00:30:53.099 --> 00:30:56.099
need to do physically but you would still say

00:30:56.099 --> 00:30:59.279
like semis is like the hardest round yeah yeah

00:30:59.279 --> 00:31:03.319
for sure because the physical boulders in Kuali

00:31:04.160 --> 00:31:09.380
are hard, but not as hard as can be the semis

00:31:09.380 --> 00:31:14.079
one. Because there is one to two boulders which

00:31:14.079 --> 00:31:21.220
are supposed to be, I would say, easier because

00:31:21.220 --> 00:31:27.099
there are much more athletes than in semis. And

00:31:27.099 --> 00:31:30.319
then in semis, you just need to make the difference

00:31:30.319 --> 00:31:34.339
for who is going to make it to the final. doesn't

00:31:34.339 --> 00:31:37.000
like we don't care if there is a lot of tops

00:31:37.000 --> 00:31:41.319
on it makes sense okay so then going into i know

00:31:41.319 --> 00:31:45.440
you mentioned that you think of uh sam richard

00:31:45.440 --> 00:31:49.119
as like your persona um What do you mean by that?

00:31:49.359 --> 00:31:52.240
Please excuse this brief intermission, but if

00:31:52.240 --> 00:31:54.519
you're interested in ad -free episodes and would

00:31:54.519 --> 00:31:56.759
like to unlock over four hours of deleted scenes,

00:31:57.019 --> 00:31:59.480
including one where Sam talks about how to set

00:31:59.480 --> 00:32:02.500
realistic goals and the importance of positivity

00:32:02.500 --> 00:32:05.460
on his mindset, do consider helping support this

00:32:05.460 --> 00:32:08.720
podcast on Patreon. Some other perks include

00:32:08.720 --> 00:32:11.460
a membership pin shipped to you after two months,

00:32:11.660 --> 00:32:14.519
prioritized guest questions for the ability to

00:32:14.519 --> 00:32:17.920
submit video questions, and more to come. The

00:32:17.920 --> 00:32:20.119
proceeds go back into the podcast to help me

00:32:20.119 --> 00:32:23.099
break even and they help me improve the experience

00:32:23.099 --> 00:32:26.039
of the guests. If you'd like to help out non

00:32:26.039 --> 00:32:28.579
-monetarily, liking, commenting and sharing helps

00:32:28.579 --> 00:32:31.880
a great deal as well. Back to the show. Actually,

00:32:31.880 --> 00:32:34.940
I didn't explain it that great the other day

00:32:34.940 --> 00:32:40.940
because I didn't get the... Milan expressed it

00:32:40.940 --> 00:32:44.059
that way. But before in comps, I would say the

00:32:44.059 --> 00:32:48.779
last two years, I was really focused on how I

00:32:48.779 --> 00:32:52.339
wanted the people to see me when I was competing.

00:32:53.400 --> 00:32:58.200
How would they feel when they see me competing?

00:32:58.640 --> 00:33:01.920
What's my attitude? What kind of guy I am? And

00:33:01.920 --> 00:33:07.500
I was also in my teenage years, so I needed to

00:33:07.500 --> 00:33:09.910
find a bit of myself and everything. And so I

00:33:09.910 --> 00:33:13.230
was creating a bit of a persona because I was

00:33:13.230 --> 00:33:15.589
like, yeah, I'm the guy who under pressure. I'm

00:33:15.589 --> 00:33:21.349
the guy who is not scared to say things. I was

00:33:21.349 --> 00:33:24.069
a bit arrogant too. But because that was my persona,

00:33:24.190 --> 00:33:26.289
I was like, yeah, okay, I'm this kind of guy.

00:33:26.390 --> 00:33:29.990
And that's why I'm competing well because based

00:33:29.990 --> 00:33:32.849
on that, I'm confident about myself and everything.

00:33:33.869 --> 00:33:37.210
But it was more, I think that really made the

00:33:37.210 --> 00:33:44.480
difference. When I detached myself from this

00:33:44.480 --> 00:33:48.519
and I was more focused on what can I do to do

00:33:48.519 --> 00:33:55.859
better. On my attitude, do I think about what

00:33:55.859 --> 00:34:00.619
I am going to do in finals or semis? Do I think

00:34:00.619 --> 00:34:04.680
about how I can read the board? How can I put

00:34:04.680 --> 00:34:09.860
my... Intensity on my try or think about if I'm

00:34:09.860 --> 00:34:12.719
relaxed or not on my feet. These are concrete

00:34:12.719 --> 00:34:15.880
things that you can do when you're competing

00:34:15.880 --> 00:34:18.739
because the results you cannot influence on it.

00:34:19.179 --> 00:34:24.380
Or making it to semi as hard as I want. If 24

00:34:24.380 --> 00:34:28.360
people are stronger than me, that's life. I cannot

00:34:28.360 --> 00:34:33.500
do anything. But what I can do is to do anything

00:34:33.500 --> 00:34:36.679
I can to climb better. That's really made the

00:34:36.679 --> 00:34:38.739
difference. So you're actually saying that you

00:34:38.739 --> 00:34:41.539
no longer have this climbing persona anymore.

00:34:41.559 --> 00:34:46.659
Yeah, exactly. I try to be more as I am. I am

00:34:46.659 --> 00:34:49.920
actually the same as I am in training. And before

00:34:49.920 --> 00:34:54.019
it wasn't like this because I was like fooling

00:34:54.019 --> 00:34:58.079
myself a bit about who I was really, who I really

00:34:58.079 --> 00:35:05.539
was. Like I didn't want it. to let myself think

00:35:05.539 --> 00:35:10.480
that I could not succeed because I wasn't confident

00:35:10.480 --> 00:35:12.880
enough or this kind of stuff. So I was just putting

00:35:12.880 --> 00:35:15.119
that aside and I was like, yeah, I'm self -reliant,

00:35:15.320 --> 00:35:20.079
I'm confident and everything. Initially, when

00:35:20.079 --> 00:35:22.139
you were talking about climbing persona, I was

00:35:22.139 --> 00:35:25.480
thinking that it had to do with how you interact

00:35:25.480 --> 00:35:28.159
with the audience because I think you're one

00:35:28.159 --> 00:35:31.260
of the climbers who... do like look into the

00:35:31.260 --> 00:35:34.579
audience a lot more or try to get people hyped

00:35:34.579 --> 00:35:37.659
up. Does that help you a lot? Yeah, actually,

00:35:37.800 --> 00:35:41.699
yeah, because I feel the crowd is giving me energy,

00:35:41.840 --> 00:35:45.360
you know, like, I don't know. I'm the kind of

00:35:45.360 --> 00:35:48.380
guy that really enjoy competing. So I don't see

00:35:48.380 --> 00:35:53.099
the point where I don't interact with the crowd

00:35:53.099 --> 00:35:57.579
because they are cheering for us, you know. yeah

00:35:57.579 --> 00:36:00.659
it's just giving me energy so let's just let's

00:36:00.659 --> 00:36:03.739
do it you know and it's always the comps where

00:36:03.739 --> 00:36:07.659
I'm not in a positive mood that I don't feel

00:36:07.659 --> 00:36:15.019
like legit to to ask for the crowd support like

00:36:15.019 --> 00:36:19.380
I'm not in I'm not so I would say I'm not so

00:36:19.380 --> 00:36:22.400
enjoying what I'm doing so I'm like why should

00:36:22.400 --> 00:36:27.699
I ask the crowd to To support me, but the most

00:36:27.699 --> 00:36:30.460
important is just to enjoy every time. So I'm

00:36:30.460 --> 00:36:33.880
just focused on this. My goal for the last three

00:36:33.880 --> 00:36:38.199
comps was really to force myself to smile before

00:36:38.199 --> 00:36:41.539
my round. Even if I don't want to smile, I'm

00:36:41.539 --> 00:36:45.199
behind the curtain to go. I'm like, you smile

00:36:45.199 --> 00:36:49.059
because you go to enjoy your comp. We are training

00:36:49.059 --> 00:36:52.119
the whole year to compete in these comps and

00:36:52.119 --> 00:36:56.380
I don't see the point where I can't enjoy. So

00:36:56.380 --> 00:37:00.119
I'm forcing myself to smile. And as I smile,

00:37:01.039 --> 00:37:02.900
I'm in a positive mood. So when I'm there, I'm

00:37:02.900 --> 00:37:06.119
like, okay, even if it doesn't go the way you

00:37:06.119 --> 00:37:09.880
want, you're there to enjoy. And the crowd is

00:37:09.880 --> 00:37:13.440
there to see people enjoying their comp. So I

00:37:13.440 --> 00:37:15.380
want to give it back to them too. Yeah, I think

00:37:15.380 --> 00:37:19.039
Matt in the commentary box always talks about

00:37:19.039 --> 00:37:21.659
you when you're coming out. I think he says that

00:37:21.659 --> 00:37:25.010
you... I forget his exact words. I think maybe

00:37:25.010 --> 00:37:26.969
he says that you have a lot of swagger when you

00:37:26.969 --> 00:37:29.849
come out and that you're always like walking

00:37:29.849 --> 00:37:35.349
out to the mat. Yeah, because Nico is my coach.

00:37:35.409 --> 00:37:38.610
So he's the French team coach. And he always

00:37:38.610 --> 00:37:41.889
telling me that if you run to your boulder, like

00:37:41.889 --> 00:37:46.550
your heartbeat goes too high, you know. And I

00:37:46.550 --> 00:37:48.670
kind of feel that I need to be relaxed when I

00:37:48.670 --> 00:37:51.949
go on my boulder. So I prefer just to walk and

00:37:51.949 --> 00:37:54.369
I go. directly there and then my heartbeat is

00:37:54.369 --> 00:38:00.070
perfectly ready to be worked on the thing. But

00:38:00.070 --> 00:38:04.210
I would say it's important after you're in front

00:38:04.210 --> 00:38:07.630
of the border to go quickly on the thing because

00:38:07.630 --> 00:38:17.690
to save time and to put yourself in a... I would

00:38:17.690 --> 00:38:20.159
say aggressive but it's not the right word. Like,

00:38:20.159 --> 00:38:23.079
you know, in finals, when I already observe the

00:38:23.079 --> 00:38:26.179
boulders, I find it's really important to, when

00:38:26.179 --> 00:38:29.420
the timer is starting, to go directly in the

00:38:29.420 --> 00:38:32.599
boulder because I want to go straight to the

00:38:32.599 --> 00:38:36.280
point and taking risks, you know? Not just seeing

00:38:36.280 --> 00:38:38.480
where is the hole that I maybe miss or what.

00:38:38.559 --> 00:38:40.400
I know what I want to do, so I go straight to

00:38:40.400 --> 00:38:42.880
the point. Do you have any other, like, tricks

00:38:42.880 --> 00:38:45.719
that you like to use for mental strength during

00:38:45.719 --> 00:38:49.090
competition? I would say something I really did

00:38:49.090 --> 00:38:53.530
despite this past few comps is to write down

00:38:53.530 --> 00:38:56.769
how I feel. Every time normally in comps, I'm

00:38:56.769 --> 00:39:04.809
a bit, I would say, listening to my sensation

00:39:04.809 --> 00:39:09.090
at warming up and how do I feel? Am I nervous

00:39:09.090 --> 00:39:14.030
or not? And normally I'm just putting the...

00:39:14.599 --> 00:39:17.500
these emotions their way and I'm like okay just

00:39:17.500 --> 00:39:21.019
focused on how you can warm and now to write

00:39:21.019 --> 00:39:24.539
it on a paper it was like you accept your sensation

00:39:24.539 --> 00:39:27.099
you know like it's okay to feel nervous it's

00:39:27.099 --> 00:39:30.639
a world cup you train for this so you can be

00:39:30.639 --> 00:39:34.860
nervous and just writing how I feel I accept

00:39:34.860 --> 00:39:39.059
how I feel so I feel better do you keep like

00:39:39.059 --> 00:39:43.239
a climbing or training journal yeah now Since

00:39:43.239 --> 00:39:47.400
three months. Oh, pretty new. Oh, it's cool.

00:39:47.780 --> 00:39:51.820
Because before I was all putting on my computer

00:39:51.820 --> 00:39:57.260
the debriefing I was doing or what I wanted to

00:39:57.260 --> 00:40:01.019
write. And now to have a small journal. Oh, okay.

00:40:01.099 --> 00:40:05.039
Yeah, sure. It's better so I can take it to Edo

00:40:05.039 --> 00:40:07.739
too and I can always have something small to

00:40:07.739 --> 00:40:12.199
write. And when you write with the pen, I...

00:40:12.440 --> 00:40:15.559
I feel I assimilate it more than if I was just

00:40:15.559 --> 00:40:19.099
putting on my computer. Oh, okay. So you're always

00:40:19.099 --> 00:40:23.360
having your thoughts out on how you're training

00:40:23.360 --> 00:40:25.719
and keeping track of that. It's just like now

00:40:25.719 --> 00:40:28.539
it's in a journal. Yeah, exactly. Oh, okay. Gotcha.

00:40:28.699 --> 00:40:31.380
I'm just wondering because I think most typical

00:40:31.380 --> 00:40:34.139
people who are just clubbing for fun don't really

00:40:34.139 --> 00:40:38.019
track their training. It's not exactly a normal...

00:40:38.300 --> 00:40:41.780
normal thing to do yeah but for competition for

00:40:41.780 --> 00:40:44.679
me the most important is always to analyze what

00:40:44.679 --> 00:40:48.699
went wrong and taking some some smaller concrete

00:40:48.699 --> 00:40:53.320
things to do to apply to uh to take this uh i

00:40:53.320 --> 00:40:56.139
would say failure but yeah to take this failure

00:40:56.139 --> 00:41:00.260
and and uh and uh analyze it and uh and work

00:41:00.260 --> 00:41:03.900
on it you know so i after I did a lot this winter,

00:41:03.960 --> 00:41:07.699
but after the training or the simulation or the

00:41:07.699 --> 00:41:10.739
comps, I always write what went good, what went

00:41:10.739 --> 00:41:14.940
wrong. And then based on this, I'm working on

00:41:14.940 --> 00:41:19.139
this stuff and I try to move on from this. Is

00:41:19.139 --> 00:41:20.559
there anything else you track in your training?

00:41:21.000 --> 00:41:25.780
Now I put, after every training, I'm obligating

00:41:25.780 --> 00:41:30.659
myself to... To put three words, three positive

00:41:30.659 --> 00:41:32.840
things that I did on the session, you know, because

00:41:32.840 --> 00:41:36.920
it's always easy to focus on what went wrong.

00:41:36.940 --> 00:41:39.639
Yeah, I didn't do this thing or I didn't do this.

00:41:39.659 --> 00:41:43.960
I was in terror and stuff. But just, yeah, always

00:41:43.960 --> 00:41:48.659
finding a bit of positivity is never bad. And

00:41:48.659 --> 00:41:55.599
I also track the hours I sleep. i write like

00:41:55.599 --> 00:41:58.780
when did i fell asleep and when did i wake up

00:41:58.780 --> 00:42:03.340
how do i feel waking up like physically tired

00:42:03.340 --> 00:42:08.000
or not uh how is my uh do i have pain and how

00:42:08.000 --> 00:42:12.280
it's going uh every morning and uh how is my

00:42:12.280 --> 00:42:16.559
skin uh how is my skin too do you ever use those

00:42:16.559 --> 00:42:21.780
um like watch trackers or like the ring trackers

00:42:21.780 --> 00:42:24.199
or whatever trackers people are using on their

00:42:24.199 --> 00:42:29.940
body? I tried the Whoop this year and it's good,

00:42:30.059 --> 00:42:33.780
I would say, because you can learn a lot from

00:42:33.780 --> 00:42:36.900
your sleep for the first three months you're

00:42:36.900 --> 00:42:39.840
using it, except that I don't see really the

00:42:39.840 --> 00:42:42.559
positive of it. And there is, you know, the recovery.

00:42:44.250 --> 00:42:47.610
your sleep recovery on it and I went crazy with

00:42:47.610 --> 00:42:50.610
this I was almost feeling when my recovery was

00:42:50.610 --> 00:42:53.070
not good that I was not going to do a good session

00:42:54.170 --> 00:42:57.070
This type of stuff. So I just now I'm not using

00:42:57.070 --> 00:42:59.690
it anymore. Yeah, I was I was always wondering

00:42:59.690 --> 00:43:02.130
because I know some people really live by that

00:43:02.130 --> 00:43:06.329
stuff. But I always felt like if I saw it like

00:43:06.329 --> 00:43:09.230
objectively say that I had a bad sleep, then

00:43:09.230 --> 00:43:12.150
it would kind of ruin my day because I'd be like,

00:43:12.250 --> 00:43:14.789
oh, yeah, I didn't sleep well. So now I feel

00:43:14.789 --> 00:43:18.809
bad. And I wonder if I didn't know that I slept

00:43:18.809 --> 00:43:22.360
poorly, if I would be feeling better. yeah well

00:43:22.360 --> 00:43:25.059
for me it's better to not know yeah actually

00:43:25.059 --> 00:43:28.639
yeah because i'm just focusing on this i'm like

00:43:28.639 --> 00:43:31.719
okay you didn't sleep well so your body is not

00:43:31.719 --> 00:43:34.719
recovered now i don't know i almost feel right

00:43:34.719 --> 00:43:37.219
every morning i do great sessions i don't care

00:43:37.219 --> 00:43:41.260
yeah exactly that's how i feel as well yeah um

00:43:41.260 --> 00:43:44.860
okay so then let's get into your outdoor climbing

00:43:44.860 --> 00:43:48.579
a bit um You told me that your climbing hot take

00:43:48.579 --> 00:43:50.619
is that outdoor climbing is better than comp

00:43:50.619 --> 00:43:53.800
climbing, which actually I think on any other

00:43:53.800 --> 00:43:56.639
platform, it would not be a hot take at all.

00:43:56.719 --> 00:43:59.199
I think a lot of people agree with that. But

00:43:59.199 --> 00:44:01.340
since you're talking to me and not someone else,

00:44:01.579 --> 00:44:06.119
convince me, why is that? I don't know. I really

00:44:06.119 --> 00:44:08.679
started climbing with this, you know, like I

00:44:08.679 --> 00:44:12.699
was educated in the nature with my parents. We

00:44:12.699 --> 00:44:16.889
always went to... to some mountain climbing or

00:44:16.889 --> 00:44:21.289
this kind of stuff. So my first, I would say,

00:44:21.409 --> 00:44:24.610
climbing memories are outside, you know. I always

00:44:24.610 --> 00:44:29.510
climb outside. I grew up outside. So doing some

00:44:29.510 --> 00:44:32.429
plastic slabs all the year, it's kind of strange.

00:44:32.730 --> 00:44:36.170
But it's also something that I really like, training

00:44:36.170 --> 00:44:39.289
and everything. So I would say it's just a balance

00:44:39.289 --> 00:44:42.949
of the two. But I prefer rock climbing because

00:44:42.949 --> 00:44:45.079
you're in the nature. I mean, it sounds like

00:44:45.079 --> 00:44:48.840
your winter training is kind of filled also mostly

00:44:48.840 --> 00:44:51.920
with just training and climbing for competitions.

00:44:52.099 --> 00:44:55.119
So do you even get much of a chance to climb

00:44:55.119 --> 00:44:59.199
outside nowadays? Yeah, yeah. Like I always take

00:44:59.199 --> 00:45:02.260
one or two weeks during the winter to go outside

00:45:02.260 --> 00:45:06.219
because there is good weather. I want to do some

00:45:06.219 --> 00:45:09.679
stuff. And also as I live in front, it's kind

00:45:09.679 --> 00:45:12.980
of easy to climb outside for a day or two and

00:45:12.980 --> 00:45:16.019
there is good conditions. So now sometimes when

00:45:16.019 --> 00:45:18.800
we have like a spray road session or something

00:45:18.800 --> 00:45:21.119
like this and there is good condition outside,

00:45:21.239 --> 00:45:26.239
we just go try a world when it's not training.

00:45:27.719 --> 00:45:31.139
In winter training, a bit less. But when it's

00:45:31.139 --> 00:45:35.880
before comps, we do much more, I would say. And

00:45:35.880 --> 00:45:39.860
when it's off -season. Wait, so you climb outside

00:45:39.860 --> 00:45:43.039
more during winter training? No, I climb more

00:45:43.039 --> 00:45:46.340
outside. I climb one to two weeks, but like straight

00:45:46.340 --> 00:45:49.260
out the outdoor when it's winter training. But

00:45:49.260 --> 00:45:51.920
then when it's like one month before the season,

00:45:52.000 --> 00:45:55.039
like in April, we went much more outside because

00:45:55.039 --> 00:45:59.639
we are the light weeks. And if we just have 10

00:45:59.639 --> 00:46:01.800
tries to do on the spray wall, it's better to

00:46:01.800 --> 00:46:05.590
do 10 tries in the forest as we can. do some

00:46:05.590 --> 00:46:08.969
stuff outside too. It's more like when we really

00:46:08.969 --> 00:46:12.690
train in the winter, we do a lot of volume and

00:46:12.690 --> 00:46:16.449
everything. We're just bad at climbing. So to

00:46:16.449 --> 00:46:19.909
climb outside, it's a bit hard. Yeah. Okay. Interesting.

00:46:20.030 --> 00:46:22.429
And then during the comp season, are you allowed

00:46:22.429 --> 00:46:25.530
to climb outside? No, no, no. No, it's more than

00:46:25.530 --> 00:46:30.230
being allowed. We need to rest. So I don't even

00:46:30.230 --> 00:46:33.179
want to. time outside because i know it's not

00:46:33.179 --> 00:46:36.840
gonna be good for my uh my shape even like between

00:46:36.840 --> 00:46:39.260
like when you have a little bit of a break like

00:46:39.260 --> 00:46:42.860
now yeah no like now after innsbruck we're gonna

00:46:42.860 --> 00:46:45.320
take five days outside six days we go to magic

00:46:45.320 --> 00:46:48.239
wood with uh with meshby and some friends so

00:46:48.239 --> 00:46:52.420
and we always do that uh in this period like

00:46:52.420 --> 00:46:55.840
every year so it's a bit of the annual ritual

00:46:55.840 --> 00:47:00.380
but but yeah we're gonna climb a bit there and

00:47:00.380 --> 00:47:03.719
uh and it depends on how many days we have but

00:47:03.719 --> 00:47:07.059
like when it's uh directly uh when there is one

00:47:07.059 --> 00:47:10.159
week race we don't go climb outside just we find

00:47:10.159 --> 00:47:13.559
the the right uh right moments to do so i mean

00:47:13.559 --> 00:47:16.340
i guess considering how much you prefer outdoor

00:47:16.340 --> 00:47:19.179
climbing how did you decide to focus most of

00:47:19.179 --> 00:47:22.460
your time on competing i guess it's uh peers

00:47:22.460 --> 00:47:27.300
you know uh i Don't really think, I really don't

00:47:27.300 --> 00:47:34.460
think actually. I've reached my full capabilities

00:47:34.460 --> 00:47:37.739
in comp climbing and I would say it would be

00:47:37.739 --> 00:47:40.860
a bit annoying to leave from the scene without

00:47:40.860 --> 00:47:45.340
seeing how far I can go. I don't know, I really

00:47:45.340 --> 00:47:48.619
like this. It's the feeling you don't have anywhere

00:47:48.619 --> 00:47:52.880
else in competition. When you do a boulder in

00:47:52.880 --> 00:47:57.760
comp, it's crazy. this feeling really is holding

00:47:57.760 --> 00:48:01.360
me to comp climbing and I would say the Olympics

00:48:01.360 --> 00:48:06.219
too because it's like the biggest comp and it's

00:48:06.219 --> 00:48:09.900
not the it's not the same like really I don't

00:48:09.900 --> 00:48:12.360
know it's something that motivates me a lot a

00:48:12.360 --> 00:48:17.099
lot so I don't know but so far I'm gonna do this

00:48:17.099 --> 00:48:20.219
Olympic cycle and then I will decide what I wanna

00:48:20.219 --> 00:48:24.130
do after for sure i'm not going to compete for

00:48:24.130 --> 00:48:28.550
for a while i'm i'm not i will not be the the

00:48:28.550 --> 00:48:32.730
jacob kind of guy or adam kind of guy i know

00:48:32.730 --> 00:48:35.570
maybe he will because he wants to climb to climb

00:48:35.570 --> 00:48:39.050
as long as he can as long as he's strong wow

00:48:39.050 --> 00:48:42.909
cool but for me i would prefer to be at my prime

00:48:42.909 --> 00:48:46.059
when i will climb outside so then For right now,

00:48:46.059 --> 00:48:48.320
when you're thinking, what's more important to

00:48:48.320 --> 00:48:52.699
you? Like your outdoor project or competing in

00:48:52.699 --> 00:48:56.559
the Olympics? Your dream outdoor project? No,

00:48:56.579 --> 00:48:59.619
for now it's like the Olympics because I'm into

00:48:59.619 --> 00:49:02.619
this cycle and I just think about this. It's

00:49:02.619 --> 00:49:07.320
more like what can I do the best to perform the

00:49:07.320 --> 00:49:11.679
best or select to Olympics. And for sure, rock

00:49:11.679 --> 00:49:14.789
climbing is a part of that because... I couldn't

00:49:14.789 --> 00:49:17.570
hold it mentally if I wouldn't climb outside

00:49:17.570 --> 00:49:21.429
a bit. So it's just finding the balance. But

00:49:21.429 --> 00:49:25.150
then after this, I will decide what I want to

00:49:25.150 --> 00:49:30.269
do. And he's complaining still my main objective.

00:49:30.429 --> 00:49:33.489
But it's just a period I try to live in the present.

00:49:33.510 --> 00:49:37.329
So I don't really think about this so far. What

00:49:37.329 --> 00:49:45.130
is your dream outdoor project right now? Actually,

00:49:45.130 --> 00:49:49.849
it was a Sudan until I send. So now I'm a bit

00:49:49.849 --> 00:49:53.630
relieved about that. But I would like to push

00:49:53.630 --> 00:49:57.769
the level outside because I don't really think

00:49:57.769 --> 00:50:01.750
that people really optimize the best they can

00:50:01.750 --> 00:50:05.190
to do some really, really hard stuff, even though

00:50:05.190 --> 00:50:08.789
some people did. But I really think we can push

00:50:08.789 --> 00:50:13.030
this stuff. a lot more so i would like maybe

00:50:13.030 --> 00:50:19.190
to uh open a 9a plus or or i know actually you

00:50:19.190 --> 00:50:22.550
know um sisu project i don't know anything about

00:50:22.550 --> 00:50:27.010
climbing outside okay okay i so it's like uh

00:50:27.010 --> 00:50:33.639
the most uh most legendary uh boulder that never

00:50:33.639 --> 00:50:36.219
has been climbed and it's like in Finland and

00:50:36.219 --> 00:50:39.980
it was the ultimate project of Nalle Yuki Taval

00:50:39.980 --> 00:50:44.340
who did the Burden of Dreams so it's like so

00:50:44.340 --> 00:50:48.019
far it's the next level in rock climbing because

00:50:48.019 --> 00:50:52.119
no one really tried it and no one has did any

00:50:52.119 --> 00:50:54.960
move as it's like really hard so it could be

00:50:54.960 --> 00:50:57.599
the thing that I'm motivated to do so it'd be

00:50:57.599 --> 00:51:00.309
like the next hardest grade i think it's even

00:51:00.309 --> 00:51:02.829
more like it would be maybe nine nine people

00:51:02.829 --> 00:51:05.329
or something like this oh wow because it's like

00:51:05.329 --> 00:51:08.070
the really the next level is nowhere compared

00:51:08.070 --> 00:51:11.469
to anything that has been done so i don't know

00:51:11.469 --> 00:51:14.989
i am kind of motivated about this kind of stuff

00:51:14.989 --> 00:51:18.610
okay so i will need your help in explaining how

00:51:18.610 --> 00:51:22.199
this works because i don't really climb outside

00:51:22.199 --> 00:51:26.199
or read that much about climbing outside so i

00:51:26.199 --> 00:51:29.760
mean when i was doing some research um i saw

00:51:29.760 --> 00:51:33.699
that your send of what was it called again sudan

00:51:33.699 --> 00:51:37.659
so yeah that you were like maybe the youngest

00:51:37.659 --> 00:51:42.340
person to climb v17 was the title um i guess

00:51:42.340 --> 00:51:45.300
it was a questionable v17 because people are

00:51:45.300 --> 00:51:47.880
trying to downgrade it is that the case like

00:51:47.880 --> 00:51:51.099
how do you feel about that So the thing about

00:51:51.099 --> 00:51:53.900
the grades outside is that it's really subjective.

00:51:54.440 --> 00:51:59.599
It depends on how tall you are or not or this

00:51:59.599 --> 00:52:03.920
kind of stuff. So putting a universal grade on

00:52:03.920 --> 00:52:07.099
a boulder is really hard and there will always

00:52:07.099 --> 00:52:10.639
be some people that will say it's easier or it's

00:52:10.639 --> 00:52:13.920
harder. So I don't know. For me, it felt like

00:52:13.920 --> 00:52:17.579
a V17 because it was nowhere near to what I've

00:52:17.579 --> 00:52:21.639
done before and I did some high -speed before.

00:52:21.920 --> 00:52:27.039
But I could totally understand that someone is

00:52:27.039 --> 00:52:30.360
thinking it's not. And I'm the youngest, but

00:52:30.360 --> 00:52:34.099
there is another guy who is called Big Cat...

00:52:34.099 --> 00:52:38.460
I don't know how. It's an American guy who did

00:52:38.460 --> 00:52:42.820
another border. No one's more than a week. It's

00:52:42.820 --> 00:52:46.179
a 9a who has been so now downgraded by Yannick

00:52:46.179 --> 00:52:50.340
Floy three months ago, so he would be 80 plus

00:52:50.340 --> 00:52:54.199
and not 9a. But actually, I'm not into this race

00:52:54.199 --> 00:52:57.380
of doing the hardest thing, the younger you can.

00:52:58.059 --> 00:53:01.360
For me, outdoor climbing is more about how you

00:53:01.360 --> 00:53:06.679
can optimize to do your hardest move. So it's

00:53:06.679 --> 00:53:09.659
just about this thing for me. Okay. You mentioned

00:53:09.659 --> 00:53:11.639
that you don't think... People are optimizing

00:53:11.639 --> 00:53:16.099
their outdoor sense. What does that mean? I would

00:53:16.099 --> 00:53:20.780
say that as competitors, our routine and our

00:53:20.780 --> 00:53:23.699
lifestyle to optimize everything to perform on

00:53:23.699 --> 00:53:28.679
a comp has never been pushed like this in outdoor

00:53:28.679 --> 00:53:31.480
climbing, I would say. See, that's like the dirtbagging

00:53:31.480 --> 00:53:34.900
I'm talking about. Yeah, exactly. So I want to

00:53:34.900 --> 00:53:43.980
transfer this to rock climbing. Even the training

00:53:43.980 --> 00:53:48.840
and everything, I think we can push how specific

00:53:48.840 --> 00:53:53.079
you can train for a specific boulder to do the

00:53:53.079 --> 00:53:57.059
hardest thing you can. It's kind of how I see

00:53:57.059 --> 00:54:00.760
it. and how I can push my body to the limits

00:54:00.760 --> 00:54:03.659
to do the harder stuff. How would you do this

00:54:03.659 --> 00:54:07.099
optimization for rock climbing outside? Already

00:54:07.099 --> 00:54:11.539
having the same lifestyle where I can, I would

00:54:11.539 --> 00:54:15.840
say, I sleep well, I'm eating well, I'm recovering

00:54:15.840 --> 00:54:19.079
well. I think I will climb less than I'm doing

00:54:19.079 --> 00:54:22.960
now because... On rock climbing, the thing is

00:54:22.960 --> 00:54:25.800
that it's really just pure strength and maximum

00:54:25.800 --> 00:54:28.840
strength. Where in comps, it's more about volume

00:54:28.840 --> 00:54:32.059
and how you can quickly do something that is

00:54:32.059 --> 00:54:35.800
medium hard, I would say. It depends because

00:54:35.800 --> 00:54:38.639
the boulders can be really hard, but it's never

00:54:38.639 --> 00:54:43.059
something that you cannot do in a five session.

00:54:43.400 --> 00:54:48.400
For sure, you can do comp boulders. So there's

00:54:48.400 --> 00:54:51.219
also the thing where... If the boulder is more

00:54:51.219 --> 00:54:55.900
compression style, I will do more conditioning

00:54:55.900 --> 00:55:00.340
specifically for this, you know, like doing more

00:55:00.340 --> 00:55:03.679
bench press or this kind of stuff. And I want

00:55:03.679 --> 00:55:07.300
really to push the... Specifically, I can train

00:55:07.300 --> 00:55:10.420
maybe on boards too, you know, on replica. You

00:55:10.420 --> 00:55:12.980
can do a replica of the boulder, so you can maybe

00:55:12.980 --> 00:55:16.900
try to do the replica with some... some less

00:55:16.900 --> 00:55:19.880
weight or on over -ringing the board so you can

00:55:19.880 --> 00:55:21.800
try different angles and this kind of stuff.

00:55:22.260 --> 00:55:24.940
Yeah, it's all this kind of thing that I want

00:55:24.940 --> 00:55:27.519
to try. It depends on the board too, but, you

00:55:27.519 --> 00:55:30.480
know. I'm kind of wondering, do you have any,

00:55:30.519 --> 00:55:33.300
like, craziest optimization that you've made

00:55:33.300 --> 00:55:36.559
in your schedule that you feel like has made

00:55:36.559 --> 00:55:38.500
a difference? I'm just thinking there's some,

00:55:38.539 --> 00:55:41.719
like, crazy people out there with, I don't know

00:55:41.719 --> 00:55:45.460
if you know this guy, not climbing related, he's,

00:55:45.460 --> 00:55:49.039
like, Oh, I forget his name. But he wants to,

00:55:49.039 --> 00:55:52.099
like, have his, like, he wants to, like, make

00:55:52.099 --> 00:55:56.420
himself younger. And he gets blood transfusions

00:55:56.420 --> 00:56:02.079
or whatever. Yeah. Yeah. I don't have really,

00:56:02.260 --> 00:56:05.199
like, crazy stuff that I do because I want to

00:56:05.199 --> 00:56:09.300
keep my mental health at a good level. Okay,

00:56:09.300 --> 00:56:15.079
yeah. But it's more about the consistency, no.

00:56:15.389 --> 00:56:18.710
consistency consistency of what you do because

00:56:18.710 --> 00:56:22.449
you can do some crazy hard optimization for one

00:56:22.449 --> 00:56:26.510
month but for me it doesn't doesn't work compared

00:56:26.510 --> 00:56:30.530
to uh if you're consistent on two or three years

00:56:30.530 --> 00:56:34.250
of 80 optimizing you know for me it's just uh

00:56:34.250 --> 00:56:37.809
optimizing it has become a lifestyle and it's

00:56:37.809 --> 00:56:41.090
just uh yeah i'm gonna sleep well or all i can

00:56:41.090 --> 00:56:44.550
do to uh to perform better i will do it but not

00:56:44.550 --> 00:56:48.070
in an extreme way so it's not getting too far

00:56:48.070 --> 00:56:50.710
you know yeah and makes you like want to just

00:56:50.710 --> 00:56:54.710
drop everything and go yeah exactly exactly it's

00:56:54.710 --> 00:56:57.349
just finding the right balance i would say and

00:56:57.349 --> 00:56:59.530
i i think it i think it makes sense i think there's

00:56:59.530 --> 00:57:03.010
a lot more optimization that can be done um especially

00:57:03.010 --> 00:57:05.769
now seeing a lot of like other comp climbers

00:57:05.769 --> 00:57:08.429
out there who are now doing like the hardest

00:57:08.429 --> 00:57:11.650
climbs outside during their off season so yeah

00:57:11.650 --> 00:57:16.130
i think there's yeah for sure Cool. I guess outside

00:57:16.130 --> 00:57:19.550
of climbing, anything else you like to do? Hobbies,

00:57:19.550 --> 00:57:22.309
non -climbing related? Actually, yeah. What I

00:57:22.309 --> 00:57:27.190
was saying earlier is I really grew up in the

00:57:27.190 --> 00:57:29.949
nature and that's really the most important for

00:57:29.949 --> 00:57:34.750
me. And I wouldn't say I'm that attached to climbing

00:57:34.750 --> 00:57:38.610
and maybe at some point I will change sports.

00:57:38.889 --> 00:57:43.480
I really want to do some running. Maybe I will

00:57:43.480 --> 00:57:46.880
do some trail running at some point. But yeah,

00:57:46.940 --> 00:57:50.440
so far I'm not. Maybe in 10 years, something

00:57:50.440 --> 00:57:53.739
like this. But really some long distance one,

00:57:53.800 --> 00:57:59.039
like the 100 miles and this kind of stuff. Kind

00:57:59.039 --> 00:58:02.860
of motivating me, like the challenge stuff, you

00:58:02.860 --> 00:58:05.440
know. Have you done any of that already or you're

00:58:05.440 --> 00:58:08.539
just thinking that that sounds good to you? No,

00:58:08.539 --> 00:58:15.079
but I'm really... In my personality, I'm just

00:58:15.079 --> 00:58:19.460
crazy about challenges and bets. It's too much.

00:58:19.519 --> 00:58:21.659
And if someone is telling me you're not capable

00:58:21.659 --> 00:58:24.599
of doing something, I'm just going to do everything

00:58:24.599 --> 00:58:27.960
I can to prove him wrong. So, I don't know. It

00:58:27.960 --> 00:58:30.619
feels like the next level of challenge for me,

00:58:30.659 --> 00:58:34.159
this kind of stuff. And I'm doing a trek from

00:58:34.159 --> 00:58:38.079
North Corsica to South Corsica with my... broader

00:58:38.079 --> 00:58:40.860
after the european championship and we're going

00:58:40.860 --> 00:58:44.719
to try to go a bit faster so yeah it's going

00:58:44.719 --> 00:58:48.119
to be fun fun to do and it's going to be a bit

00:58:48.119 --> 00:58:52.260
related to ultra trade okay just running or uh

00:58:52.260 --> 00:58:56.280
walking fast because it's like uh one yeah it's

00:58:56.280 --> 00:59:01.300
almost 100 miles and uh oh wow and 12 000 meters

00:59:01.300 --> 00:59:05.739
steep So, yeah, we said we are going to try to

00:59:05.739 --> 00:59:09.340
do it under 100 hours, so we need to walk a bit

00:59:09.340 --> 00:59:12.699
faster and not sleeping a lot. Yeah, that sounds

00:59:12.699 --> 00:59:15.059
like a terrible time to me, but I hope you have

00:59:15.059 --> 00:59:17.780
fun doing that. No, it's the holidays for me.

00:59:17.880 --> 00:59:20.519
I put the climbing aside, so it's going to be

00:59:20.519 --> 00:59:24.099
fun. So you kind of already know that you don't

00:59:24.099 --> 00:59:28.179
want to even climb outside forever? Yeah, because,

00:59:28.579 --> 00:59:32.400
I don't know, I've... Actually, there's too much

00:59:32.400 --> 00:59:36.800
going on in my hands and my projects. But I would

00:59:36.800 --> 00:59:39.880
like to try to be competitive in other sports

00:59:39.880 --> 00:59:43.579
in the future. And long distance training was

00:59:43.579 --> 00:59:47.239
really something I wanted to do. So maybe it

00:59:47.239 --> 00:59:52.099
could be a thing. But I've always pictured that

00:59:52.099 --> 00:59:54.480
I would not climb forever because I want to do

00:59:54.480 --> 00:59:58.659
something else. I want to find the right sport

00:59:58.659 --> 01:00:03.039
after this. Like, do you still want to climb

01:00:03.039 --> 01:00:06.639
just like casually or you just like want it completely?

01:00:07.199 --> 01:00:10.500
This is the end of my climbing chapter. I think

01:00:10.500 --> 01:00:17.380
as it has been a part of my life for the 18 last

01:00:17.380 --> 01:00:19.860
year, so my whole life, I will still climb a

01:00:19.860 --> 01:00:23.519
bit. Sure, yeah. But I think it depends also

01:00:23.519 --> 01:00:28.440
on your life's period. If I moved on from climbing

01:00:28.440 --> 01:00:31.820
and I don't see a lot of interest in it, I would

01:00:31.820 --> 01:00:35.980
just not climb. I'm not that attached to this.

01:00:36.559 --> 01:00:39.559
I don't know. We'll see. That's interesting to

01:00:39.559 --> 01:00:42.760
hear. I feel like most climbers are just obsessed

01:00:42.760 --> 01:00:45.199
and can't imagine life without climbing. So that's

01:00:45.199 --> 01:00:48.420
interesting. Yeah, because... Climbing is almost

01:00:48.420 --> 01:00:50.780
a lifestyle, I would say, because when you're

01:00:50.780 --> 01:00:52.699
not climbing inside, you're climbing outside.

01:00:52.940 --> 01:00:55.099
Your holidays are climbing and stuff. And it's

01:00:55.099 --> 01:00:58.280
kind of the case for me. But it's really a sport

01:00:58.280 --> 01:01:01.239
that takes a lot of time because you train a

01:01:01.239 --> 01:01:04.420
lot in the gym. You need to have facilities nearby

01:01:04.420 --> 01:01:07.440
and everything. And I don't know if I want to

01:01:07.440 --> 01:01:10.219
maybe move to another country to live or this

01:01:10.219 --> 01:01:13.199
kind of stuff. It would not be easier to train

01:01:13.199 --> 01:01:16.139
as I'm training now. So I will not be as strong

01:01:16.139 --> 01:01:19.239
as I'm strong now. And I don't know, maybe I

01:01:19.239 --> 01:01:22.719
would like to do another stuff and running is

01:01:22.719 --> 01:01:25.000
easy to trade with. Yeah, you can do that. In

01:01:25.000 --> 01:01:27.300
terms of facilities, I would say. Cool. Well,

01:01:27.400 --> 01:01:30.340
that'll be interesting to see in 10 years how

01:01:30.340 --> 01:01:32.179
your life changes and progresses. Yeah, exactly.

01:01:32.579 --> 01:01:35.480
Actually, I'm saying that maybe I will be still

01:01:35.480 --> 01:01:38.039
competing in 10 years. Yeah, maybe. We never

01:01:38.039 --> 01:01:40.760
know. Turn into Jakob. I think those are all

01:01:40.760 --> 01:01:43.239
the questions I had. So let's move on to a few

01:01:43.239 --> 01:01:46.619
of the audience questions we had. So first one

01:01:46.619 --> 01:01:51.199
from Instagram, LuckyPenguin3. How has the transition

01:01:51.199 --> 01:01:54.260
from youth to senior been for you? It has been

01:01:54.260 --> 01:01:58.019
pretty strange because my first senior year is

01:01:58.019 --> 01:02:02.940
in 24. And that was my main objective this year

01:02:02.940 --> 01:02:06.500
to select for the World Cups. Just the thing

01:02:06.500 --> 01:02:10.099
is I had no preselection either in youth and

01:02:10.099 --> 01:02:15.059
in seniors. And I was injured before the first

01:02:15.059 --> 01:02:20.400
French selective comp. And I had like, it was

01:02:20.400 --> 01:02:24.019
the four comps in a row, so the same month. And

01:02:24.019 --> 01:02:26.840
it was like first seniors French selective comp,

01:02:27.039 --> 01:02:29.980
nationals in youth, nationals in seniors, and

01:02:29.980 --> 01:02:32.900
selective comp in youth. So I had to do the four

01:02:32.900 --> 01:02:36.739
to be sure I could be selected in youth and seniors.

01:02:37.320 --> 01:02:41.099
And before the criteria was not the combined,

01:02:41.340 --> 01:02:43.969
it was like... The first of the first comp, the

01:02:43.969 --> 01:02:46.690
first of the, yeah, the first of national, first

01:02:46.690 --> 01:02:48.590
of French collective comp, and then the combine.

01:02:48.849 --> 01:02:51.630
Oh, wow. And the doctor told me the week before

01:02:51.630 --> 01:02:54.510
the first comp that I was injured and I needed

01:02:54.510 --> 01:02:57.210
to rest for three months. So it was like, for

01:02:57.210 --> 01:02:59.610
sure, a white season for me, like no comps and

01:02:59.610 --> 01:03:03.710
everything. I still decided to go to the French

01:03:03.710 --> 01:03:05.809
collective comp in seniors because it was the

01:03:05.809 --> 01:03:09.570
first and I was like, I can't just like... forgive

01:03:09.570 --> 01:03:12.849
about my season like this. And I won the comp.

01:03:13.469 --> 01:03:16.949
So I was selected for World Cups. And I didn't

01:03:16.949 --> 01:03:19.409
do any youth comps except the European Championship

01:03:19.409 --> 01:03:21.750
because I was like, you know, I have World Cups,

01:03:21.750 --> 01:03:24.789
I train for this. And I started performing well

01:03:24.789 --> 01:03:27.789
because I win qualities in the second World Cups

01:03:27.789 --> 01:03:30.510
and everything. So I was like, okay, maybe seniors

01:03:30.510 --> 01:03:33.010
is good. Then I did the European Championship

01:03:33.010 --> 01:03:35.909
in youth that I won. And then slowly I went to

01:03:35.909 --> 01:03:39.889
seniors and just seniors. That sounds like a

01:03:39.889 --> 01:03:43.110
good transition. Yeah, actually. What injury

01:03:43.110 --> 01:03:44.989
did you have that you had to rest for three months?

01:03:45.489 --> 01:03:52.829
I had a back injury because of stress, I would

01:03:52.829 --> 01:03:58.260
say. I don't know what the word is. The thing

01:03:58.260 --> 01:04:00.960
is that in bordering, you fall on the mats and

01:04:00.960 --> 01:04:04.059
my back has fallen for the past 18 years. And

01:04:04.059 --> 01:04:08.000
when I was training in Valence, they were putting

01:04:08.000 --> 01:04:09.920
some weights when we were young and everything.

01:04:10.099 --> 01:04:14.019
So it didn't help my back so much. And at some

01:04:14.019 --> 01:04:19.420
point, it was just too stressed and it was hurting

01:04:19.420 --> 01:04:22.760
a lot and I couldn't fall. So I had to rest.

01:04:22.940 --> 01:04:25.980
And with the bike, you can do anything. You just

01:04:25.980 --> 01:04:28.510
rest. so it was really just like from falling

01:04:28.510 --> 01:04:31.329
too much yeah just from falling too much and

01:04:31.329 --> 01:04:33.710
it just creates more and more fighting on the

01:04:33.710 --> 01:04:36.829
back oh that's kind of scary i hope that doesn't

01:04:36.829 --> 01:04:41.429
happen to me no no but it's more like um i really

01:04:41.429 --> 01:04:45.289
we climbed like uh like weighted with 63 kilograms

01:04:45.289 --> 01:04:49.050
falling on the mats and especially when you train

01:04:49.050 --> 01:04:52.829
uh you you fall much more because you train much

01:04:52.829 --> 01:04:57.489
more And I was not also super strong in the core.

01:04:58.789 --> 01:05:02.869
So I was always compensating with the back going

01:05:02.869 --> 01:05:05.690
in front and that didn't help at all. So you

01:05:05.690 --> 01:05:08.690
were falling with a lot of weight on you. Yeah,

01:05:08.710 --> 01:05:12.050
when I was young, so that didn't help. Wow, interesting

01:05:12.050 --> 01:05:15.909
training technique. Okay, so the next one is

01:05:15.909 --> 01:05:22.300
from... How do you hype yourself up before a

01:05:22.300 --> 01:05:26.059
comp or an attempt? I listen to music, actually.

01:05:26.320 --> 01:05:30.380
I always have the same playlist because I want

01:05:30.380 --> 01:05:32.480
the same routine in comps, so I always listen

01:05:32.480 --> 01:05:35.079
to the same songs. So I know where I'm at in

01:05:35.079 --> 01:05:40.059
my warming up. If it's the fourth song, I know

01:05:40.059 --> 01:05:42.559
I should do this elastic band exercise or this

01:05:42.559 --> 01:05:44.980
kind of stuff. So before a boulder, I really

01:05:44.980 --> 01:05:49.599
listen to the music I want. And I also, I would

01:05:49.599 --> 01:05:54.960
say, clap my, what's this part? The cheeks? Cheek,

01:05:54.980 --> 01:05:58.139
yeah. Cheeks, I'll do like this. Really? Okay.

01:05:58.320 --> 01:06:01.420
Yeah, and the same with the legs. So I'm really,

01:06:01.619 --> 01:06:04.699
I don't know, it wakes me up a lot, like really

01:06:04.699 --> 01:06:10.340
before the boulder. Do you have like your favorite

01:06:10.340 --> 01:06:13.119
songs that you want to share? It depends on the

01:06:13.119 --> 01:06:16.920
mood. I'm into a queen mood actually. Before

01:06:16.920 --> 01:06:19.579
the Slab in Madrid in the finals, I was listening

01:06:19.579 --> 01:06:23.380
to We Are The Champions. It was nice. But it

01:06:23.380 --> 01:06:27.739
depends. Sometimes it could be some nirvana with

01:06:27.739 --> 01:06:32.519
smells like teen spirits or some techno. It really

01:06:32.519 --> 01:06:35.579
depends. So even for Slab, you try to hype yourself

01:06:35.579 --> 01:06:37.880
up? You don't try to calm yourself down before

01:06:37.880 --> 01:06:42.980
Slab? It depends. No, I try to calm the more

01:06:42.980 --> 01:06:46.920
I can, to be the more relaxed I can. But just

01:06:46.920 --> 01:06:51.400
before going, you still need to be taking risks

01:06:51.400 --> 01:06:55.579
mindset actually. Because if you're not taking

01:06:55.579 --> 01:06:58.539
risks, you just go too slow and you don't move

01:06:58.539 --> 01:07:01.300
on the slab at all. I think it's universal to

01:07:01.300 --> 01:07:04.360
all boulders, but that's why I still hype a bit

01:07:04.360 --> 01:07:08.800
myself before slab. Okay, makes sense. Okay,

01:07:08.880 --> 01:07:11.880
and then I'll do one last one. How's the bromance

01:07:11.880 --> 01:07:15.090
blossoming between you, Mejdi, and Manu? and

01:07:15.090 --> 01:07:18.989
many it's going pretty well actually now we are

01:07:18.989 --> 01:07:21.949
training a lot together because we have the same

01:07:21.949 --> 01:07:25.710
coach now and actually i live with mejdi so but

01:07:25.710 --> 01:07:28.869
yeah i know it's pretty going really well i have

01:07:28.869 --> 01:07:33.769
no problems with with them and we actually really

01:07:33.769 --> 01:07:37.710
are the same with mejdi in terms of what we want

01:07:37.710 --> 01:07:41.030
to do to optimize and to everything in our lifestyle

01:07:41.030 --> 01:07:44.969
so our lifestyle is pretty similar and we push

01:07:44.969 --> 01:07:47.210
ourselves in training too so that's really cool

01:07:47.210 --> 01:07:50.550
when did you guys move in together uh in september

01:07:50.550 --> 01:07:54.010
this year but before i was already uh so he went

01:07:54.010 --> 01:07:57.469
to paris uh the year before so i was coming to

01:07:57.469 --> 01:07:59.829
paris sometimes and he was doing the half and

01:07:59.829 --> 01:08:02.230
half between grenoble where we have our second

01:08:02.230 --> 01:08:07.130
tc and paris so we were already training since

01:08:07.130 --> 01:08:12.010
23 together so it helps And it's very convenient

01:08:12.010 --> 01:08:14.769
to live with someone who you train with a bunch

01:08:14.769 --> 01:08:18.369
too. Yeah, actually it is. But I was a bit scared

01:08:18.369 --> 01:08:22.109
of the Olympic format because we didn't know

01:08:22.109 --> 01:08:27.390
until one point if it was one or two quotas per

01:08:27.390 --> 01:08:30.750
country. So I was like, if I'm living with Mejdi,

01:08:30.869 --> 01:08:33.109
we have the same coach, we train together, the

01:08:33.109 --> 01:08:36.630
only, and then just one of them will go to Olympics.

01:08:36.689 --> 01:08:41.460
That would be hard enough. i didn't i didn't

01:08:41.460 --> 01:08:45.920
want to uh that he was me the reason that he

01:08:45.920 --> 01:08:49.100
was not going to uh to select olympics again

01:08:49.100 --> 01:08:51.659
you know because it was really a tough time tough

01:08:51.659 --> 01:08:55.979
time for him too and i don't know i prefer it

01:08:55.979 --> 01:08:58.739
this way so now that there is two quota at least

01:08:58.739 --> 01:09:02.680
we can both lyrics and uh if we don't select

01:09:02.680 --> 01:09:05.600
together we still have the chance so it's okay

01:09:05.600 --> 01:09:08.449
for me So you're thinking forward to like the

01:09:08.449 --> 01:09:11.510
28, 28 qualifications or I guess it'll happen

01:09:11.510 --> 01:09:14.470
next year. Yeah, exactly. It will start to happen

01:09:14.470 --> 01:09:16.670
next year, like the first six. Yeah, that'll

01:09:16.670 --> 01:09:19.770
be painful. I'm surprised. I thought it was always,

01:09:19.810 --> 01:09:21.890
I thought we always knew it was going to be two,

01:09:21.970 --> 01:09:26.289
just like last time. No, because there was 14

01:09:26.289 --> 01:09:31.159
spots now. there is what is possible the discipline

01:09:31.159 --> 01:09:34.140
that they could have choose to uh to just let

01:09:34.140 --> 01:09:37.300
one to every country but because now if it's

01:09:37.300 --> 01:09:40.380
two it can be like a just a comb between the

01:09:40.380 --> 01:09:44.699
japanese friends and british claims so no but

01:09:44.699 --> 01:09:47.260
actually yeah i don't know for me it's better

01:09:47.260 --> 01:09:51.619
this way because so we can select with more people

01:09:51.619 --> 01:09:54.100
yeah we'll have been too random with the one

01:09:54.470 --> 01:09:56.390
Well, I think that's all the questions I had

01:09:56.390 --> 01:09:59.470
then. Thanks for joining me today. Is there anything

01:09:59.470 --> 01:10:02.850
else that you want to shout out or like last

01:10:02.850 --> 01:10:05.029
minute words of wisdom that you want to give?

01:10:05.489 --> 01:10:11.350
Stay positive. No, it's really just enjoy your

01:10:11.350 --> 01:10:13.170
climbing. That's the most important, I would

01:10:13.170 --> 01:10:16.229
say. Because it's a crazy sport. It's so cool

01:10:16.229 --> 01:10:20.989
to do. If you're not enjoying your time on climbing,

01:10:21.409 --> 01:10:25.489
there's something different to do. Yeah, move

01:10:25.489 --> 01:10:28.369
on to running. Because it's fun to do. Exactly.

01:10:28.670 --> 01:10:31.949
Go to running if you're bored of climbing. Awesome.

01:10:32.329 --> 01:10:34.069
Want to let people know where they can find you?

01:10:34.970 --> 01:10:38.329
Yeah, on Instagram. I have also a YouTube channel

01:10:38.329 --> 01:10:43.770
where I put some videos and I try to do the behind

01:10:43.770 --> 01:10:46.489
the scenes of the training and the comps and

01:10:46.489 --> 01:10:49.289
everything. You can check on this if you want.

01:10:49.550 --> 01:10:51.909
Well, thank you again. And it was awesome to

01:10:51.909 --> 01:10:55.180
talk to you. Thanks to you. you maybe another

01:10:55.180 --> 01:10:57.779
time thank you for listening to this episode

01:10:57.779 --> 01:11:00.760
of the that's not real climbing podcast if you've

01:11:00.760 --> 01:11:02.720
been enjoying the podcast i would appreciate

01:11:02.720 --> 01:11:05.340
if you like it on youtube or rate it on your

01:11:05.340 --> 01:11:08.220
podcasting platform and please leave a comment

01:11:08.220 --> 01:11:11.140
or reach out at any time if you have any thoughts

01:11:11.140 --> 01:11:14.680
i try to read all of the messages if you want

01:11:14.680 --> 01:11:17.680
to continue the discussion join the free competition

01:11:17.680 --> 01:11:20.720
climbing discord where we chat live during the

01:11:20.720 --> 01:11:23.399
world series comps and talk all things climbing

01:11:23.880 --> 01:11:26.779
The link is in the description and see you next

01:11:26.779 --> 01:11:27.020
time.