63: Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi, Indonesia's New Speed Star

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I'm not consistent. I can say that I'm not consistent.

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I got false start. I think that's the risk. If

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you want to be fast, that's the risk. Before

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we go to Poland, you never expect that it will

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be four lanes. So we're not training four lanes,

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but... Like when I warm up, I run, do every ritual

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I had. So I think just playing with basketball

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and listening to the music, do a little bordering,

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and then you win. One until two weeks after my

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mom passed away, I debuted in Bali and I want

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to give my best result in there. I wish I can

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go to the podium, but I can't make it. Welcome

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to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing

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Podcast. I'm your host, Jinni, and I'm excited

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to introduce my guest for today, Antasyafi Robby

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Al Hilmi. Robby is a speed climber from Indonesia

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who has already gotten two silver medals in the

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World Series season this year. In this episode,

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we'll learn about the climbing scene in Indonesia,

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speed climbing rituals, and whether they're actually

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helpful. We'll hear his thoughts on the four

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-lane and speed relay formats, and we'll get

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insight into how he got so good at speed climbing

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after only training it consistently for three

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years. This is my first interview with an Indonesian

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athlete, so thank you to Robby for being willing

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to speak with me in English, and I hope you enjoy

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for helping to sponsor this podcast. Now back

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to the show. So you're getting back from your

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time in Europe. You had like a lot of competitions

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there. Congratulations on getting So many medals.

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Like three medals? Four in Poland and four in

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Chamonix. Four? Oh my gosh. Wait. Okay. Wait,

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how do you get four? They suck one. They suck

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one gold, one silver, and one bronze. And then

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the Rarijati got the bronze in their individual

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men. And that's four in Poland. Oh, okay. In

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Chamonix, it's gold from... Yeah. I was just

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talking about your medals, but yeah. Yeah, so

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congrats on all those medals. How did you like

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Europe? When you climb in Changwon East with

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the mountain background and there's a lot of

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people watching you, that's a different vibe.

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I never think about that. That's my first, and

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yeah, I want it. That's really, really me. Yeah,

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well, congrats there. It was cool to see. So

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how did you get into climbing and competing?

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in 2014 when i was seven years old uh and the

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reason i climb it's from my mother she looking

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for a sport for me because i have pneumonia just

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like i have something in my lungs and then the

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doctor gave me an option swimming or the other

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sport but there were The first one doctor said

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the recommended is swimming. So my mother looking

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for a swimming club near my house, but they declined

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me. So my second option is climbing. And why

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did they say that you couldn't swim? I don't

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know what's the reason. I forgot that. In the

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end, I'm just climbing. And you started out with

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Boulder and Leave, right? Yeah, I started Boulder

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and Leave because we don't have the facility

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for speed. Wait, really? Real. And the fun fact

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is I am the only one speed climber from my town.

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Oh, okay. Make it through to the national table.

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Wow, okay. I guess I'm surprised because Indonesia

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seems like you would attribute that to speed

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climbers. Are there a lot of training facilities

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around Indonesia, just not in your town? It's

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really rare if you can find a good facility in

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Indonesia because not every province has a good

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facility. And that's the reason why I became

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the first speed climber from my town. Because

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they just built speed climbing in 2018 or 2017,

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I guess. And I already climbed since 2014. So

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I just climbed. And then you transitioned. Okay,

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gotcha. So during our pre -interview, I thought

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you said that you have only been speed climbing

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for three years. Really? Yeah. Well, what do

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you consider not focusing on it? Like you were

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just doing it for fun on the side? It's hard

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for me to train speed timing in my sound, right?

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So I just, when they build a new speed timing,

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it's so far from my home. So I just can't go

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there like twice in a week. So I got the basics,

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but I'm not nice to it. Okay, yeah. I just got

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the basic and the fun fact is I can win in national

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competition with that basic. Really? Yeah. In

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a national competition? National youth competition.

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I started competing in national youth in 2021.

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And I got the gold until 2023. Like three years

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in a row. Wow. Yeah, that's a big feat because

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I feel like Indonesia has the best speed climbers.

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And so then what do you consider like really

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training speed? Like how much do you train now?

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Four hours in five days. Four hours in the morning

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and two hours in the night. Okay. Yeah, that

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is a lot more. So then how did you decide to

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switch from boulder and lead to speed? How did

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you know it was better for you? I'm switching

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to speed because I have an injury in my shoulder

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and my middle finger. So when I cannot cream,

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I feel like there's no space anymore for me to

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lead or border. I lose in many competitions and

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that stresses me out. So I'm trying to search

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for myself in speed. because you know there is

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no there is no little point in speech so you

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you can yeah but the whole is bigger than the

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little folder and it makes me happy like i can

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forgot my i can forget my injury and i'm enjoying

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my life too my federation see me when I compete

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in national youth competition and I got the goal

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climbing for for my province in a relay and then

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they have a new program they call it national

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youth camp like yeah national youth camp for

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for three years and then they call me 2023 and

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that's the start when I start focus being speed

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Yeah, I guess I'm still surprised to hear because

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I feel like a lot of people who love bouldering

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and lead climbing don't necessarily like speed

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climbing. So it's still different. Yeah, it feels

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like I'm forced to get out and boulder. I don't

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want to, but the conditioning forced me. But

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you still like the repetitive nature of speed

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climbing? That doesn't bore you? No. At first,

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I think I will get bored. But when you improve

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every day and you know the difference from yesterday,

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like, oh, I'm improving right now. It makes me

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want more, want more, want more. I guess that

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brings me into actually speed climbing. I feel

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like... you know it's not every day that you

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actually improve so what about the times where

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especially because in speed climbing you have

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a time and so it's very easy to tell if you've

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gotten worse does that affect you yeah i can

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i cannot improve like 304 months and that's making

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me stress stress me out that and i'm trying to

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figure out how to break my pb like i'm stuck

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5 .4 in three or four months and this already

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stressed me out like what i'm supposed to do

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to break my boobie then i don't know what's the

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connection but i cut my hair all of it okay and

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yeah i can i can go to five points after that

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really okay yeah but it's never happened again

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It's just random thoughts. When was that? In

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2024. So then, I mean, now your PB is like, what,

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4 .7? Yeah. How did you get there then? At first,

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it's hard to improve after 5 .02. You can make

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it into sub -5. But, you know, when you... uh

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the national national team called me in 2025

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right so in april 2025 i'm start training with

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best of the best climbing climbers from indonesia

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like fedrik olympic champion and kathy rarjati

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and rajia so when i see them like the behavior

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and the spirit when they climb and when they're

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spinning. It makes me want to be like them. And

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that's the reason I can improve so fast. In 2022,

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I just saw them competing in World Cup, saw them

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in streaming and YouTube, but now I can climb

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with them. It's an honor. I can say it's an honor.

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So did you learn new beta from them or was it

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just seeing their routine or their training?

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For beta, I'm not learning much from beta, but

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from mentality, from teamwork and ritual before

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climbing and how to make your body warm from

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the warm up. recovery routine i learned a lot

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from this what would you say is like one of the

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most important things you learned from them that

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helped you break sub five the important thing

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is behavior like what time do you sleep and you

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have to know when you recovery and when you have

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to training get balance so you can you cannot

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train hard but you forget your recovery i think

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it will be a suicide for people if you do that

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like you want training more more more but you

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you're not good at sleep what does your like

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training versus recovery look like and like your

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routine i guess my routine it's i got massage

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once a week and When I take a rest day and I

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do nothing, usually I stretch out my muscle.

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If you don't have a measure in my national youth,

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my national cabinet, I usually do it for myself.

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I got a massage gun and I massage myself. Then

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I'm playing a massage roll, you know? Yeah, like

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a foam roller. Yeah, a foam roller. I'm playing

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from world and I'm learning yoga. And then you

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think like getting a lot of sleep like every

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day and sleeping at the same time. I can sleep

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seven until eight hours in a day. And that's

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good for my recovery. I feel exhausted if I'm

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not sleeping seven to eight hours in a day. It

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rarely happens. When I have to go compete in

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Europe, it will put my sleep. But yeah, I have

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to improve. I mean, it's hard with jet lag and

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going across a bunch of times. So I guess part

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of that, I'm wondering, I know speed climbers

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have like a huge ritual. Well, first of all,

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what is your ritual before you start your speed

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climb? Naruto is first is praying. I pray and

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I have to touch a point, a hole. I have to touch

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a hole because I imagine my muscle is have to

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have to grip something. It can be balls or it

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can be a bowl. I have to imagine when I'm climbing,

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I'm not asleep. And usually I do with box, like

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with technique. Box? Box breathing? Yeah, it's

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like the pattern, like four inhale and four fold

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and four exhale. And repeat every time to get

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me calmed down. You know, when you're competing.

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one stage with sam with zhong cheng with pedrick

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it's it's really i i need to focus yeah so is

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that what you do before every speed run yeah

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before every speed run yeah so one of the things

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that i see you do is before you have to start

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the run you kind of like twitch a little bit

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oh yeah yeah I heard it from, from, yeah, you

00:17:04.309 --> 00:17:07.730
know, when I already climbed in Chamonix, I looking

00:17:07.730 --> 00:17:12.849
for replay and Matt, Matt Bloom say that. Yeah.

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I have the best vision. Yeah. Is that a thing

00:17:16.269 --> 00:17:18.930
you intentionally, you do that on purpose? I

00:17:18.930 --> 00:17:21.009
just realized that, you know, when Matt saying,

00:17:21.029 --> 00:17:23.890
yeah, I just realized it and. Oh, okay. So you

00:17:23.890 --> 00:17:26.950
didn't even know that you do it. In my thought,

00:17:26.990 --> 00:17:31.119
just, just climbing, just do it. I guess when

00:17:31.119 --> 00:17:35.619
I'm thinking too much, it will get worse. Everything

00:17:35.619 --> 00:17:38.059
terrible. So that's not part of your routine,

00:17:38.220 --> 00:17:43.200
necessarily. Okay, gotcha. Okay, so then going

00:17:43.200 --> 00:17:47.779
back to your routine, I feel like when I do the

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exact same thing every time, I get very in my

00:17:52.259 --> 00:17:56.079
head because if something goes wrong with it,

00:17:56.119 --> 00:17:59.960
it feels worse. Or because I know... what it

00:17:59.960 --> 00:18:03.440
feels like when I feel good. If it feels just

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a little bit off, it'll ruin everything. So how

00:18:06.640 --> 00:18:09.259
does that work with the routine? I think the

00:18:09.259 --> 00:18:15.960
important thing is the thoughts. Not every part

00:18:15.960 --> 00:18:21.240
of my routine, I do it 100%. I have to do that.

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Because the important thing is, I always say

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to myself, You can do it. Just do it. And everything

00:18:30.450 --> 00:18:39.630
will be fine. So I talk much to myself. I face

00:18:39.630 --> 00:18:44.910
it in the mirror and I say to myself, Robbie,

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you can do this. It's not scary at all. They're

00:18:50.410 --> 00:18:55.150
the same with you. Same as you. They're scared,

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but they do it. So you can do that. So my routine,

00:19:02.450 --> 00:19:07.410
it's just to calm me down. And so you don't have

00:19:07.410 --> 00:19:09.809
to do every single part of your routine. Every

00:19:09.809 --> 00:19:13.309
single part. Yeah. But the important thing is

00:19:13.309 --> 00:19:16.849
in my thoughts. And then what about when you

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are traveling and you're jet lagged and you don't

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get all the sleep that you would want to feel

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the best? How do you deal with that? yeah it's

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happened many times like you know my first campaign

00:19:30.549 --> 00:19:37.230
in europe in 2025 i think is in poland it's b

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50 week wow yeah and in chamonix it's b 25 because

00:19:44.670 --> 00:19:48.589
i can't deal with my gender it's really really

00:19:48.589 --> 00:19:54.400
hard for me and from the uh from that Competition,

00:19:54.480 --> 00:19:58.519
I learned how to deal with it. The best thing

00:19:58.519 --> 00:20:01.759
I can say is don't think about it yet. I say

00:20:01.759 --> 00:20:06.799
to myself, it's your home. Just do it like you

00:20:06.799 --> 00:20:11.119
do in training. It's your home. And the crucial

00:20:11.119 --> 00:20:16.039
part is my first run. I have to make it perfect.

00:20:17.180 --> 00:20:20.940
Because if I'm slipped a little bit, I can get

00:20:20.940 --> 00:20:27.480
overthinking. Yeah. Well, yeah. How do you deal

00:20:27.480 --> 00:20:30.400
with the pressure of like a single slip or mistake

00:20:30.400 --> 00:20:36.319
ending your run? I need someone to tell me that

00:20:36.319 --> 00:20:41.380
I'm okay. Because if I already slip, it's not

00:20:41.380 --> 00:20:45.420
enough to convince me if I talk to myself. I

00:20:45.420 --> 00:20:50.940
need someone. Usually my coach will come to me.

00:20:52.720 --> 00:20:58.000
Then she will calm me down. I did work every

00:20:58.000 --> 00:21:01.619
day. Okay. Is there anything specific she says

00:21:01.619 --> 00:21:05.400
or just having someone there is helpful? Yeah,

00:21:05.440 --> 00:21:09.259
I met someone actually and saw. Okay. Even though

00:21:09.259 --> 00:21:13.599
I know how to deal with it, but I still need

00:21:13.599 --> 00:21:16.819
someone to talk to. Do you feel like it's more

00:21:16.819 --> 00:21:21.759
important to... be consistent or to just have

00:21:21.759 --> 00:21:25.380
the fastest time that you can possibly do? My

00:21:25.380 --> 00:21:31.779
typical is fast. So I'm not consistent. I can

00:21:31.779 --> 00:21:34.819
say that I'm not consistent. Really? Okay. Yeah.

00:21:35.059 --> 00:21:41.960
After Madrid, I got P2 in Poland's format. I

00:21:41.960 --> 00:21:47.480
got 80 minutes in 32 rounds. I got false turn.

00:21:49.180 --> 00:21:52.059
I think that's the risk. If you want to be fast,

00:21:52.200 --> 00:21:55.119
that's the risk. You have to take it. But I'm

00:21:55.119 --> 00:21:57.559
still learning how to be fast and consistent.

00:21:58.859 --> 00:22:03.519
It's really hard. You explicitly made the trade

00:22:03.519 --> 00:22:05.660
-off that you would rather be fast than consistent?

00:22:06.160 --> 00:22:10.200
Yeah. For now, I think I'm fast, but I'm not

00:22:10.200 --> 00:22:13.519
consistent at all. I'm still learning. How do

00:22:13.519 --> 00:22:16.119
you become more consistent? Is there an easy,

00:22:16.240 --> 00:22:22.609
obvious way? I think I will do a lot of full

00:22:22.609 --> 00:22:26.869
runs in my training. Like eight full runs without

00:22:26.869 --> 00:22:34.930
slip. That's my target. I will get used to it.

00:22:35.369 --> 00:22:41.190
When I compete, it will be happening. I wish

00:22:41.190 --> 00:22:45.130
I can bring my training to the competition. You

00:22:45.130 --> 00:22:47.789
know that if you just go a little bit slower,

00:22:47.890 --> 00:22:50.589
you could become more consistent, but you just

00:22:50.589 --> 00:22:52.589
can't take that risk, right? I can't take that.

00:22:52.829 --> 00:22:56.130
Remember, I will not take that. Okay, good to

00:22:56.130 --> 00:23:00.089
know. So then what does your training look like

00:23:00.089 --> 00:23:03.869
typically? Speed climbing is the only sport within

00:23:03.869 --> 00:23:06.710
climbing that I've seen people do a lot of weird

00:23:06.710 --> 00:23:12.789
drills or weird exercises. What kind of drills

00:23:12.789 --> 00:23:17.680
do you do? Until three sections. The first one

00:23:17.680 --> 00:23:19.960
is top section, the second one is in the middle

00:23:19.960 --> 00:23:23.019
section, and the last one in the start section.

00:23:24.019 --> 00:23:27.660
But I have a lot of struggle in the top section.

00:23:28.519 --> 00:23:34.140
So usually when I already run with a good run

00:23:34.140 --> 00:23:36.859
in the start and the middle, I slip in the top

00:23:36.859 --> 00:23:42.390
section many times. i'm improving every day so

00:23:42.390 --> 00:23:48.750
when i i got endurance program i will tell my

00:23:48.750 --> 00:23:53.230
coach i will climb in the top section like four

00:23:53.230 --> 00:24:01.990
times four times and four set and i do gym but

00:24:01.990 --> 00:24:04.750
i don't know what yeah strength i don't know

00:24:04.750 --> 00:24:11.470
i I see my friend and a lot of my partner who

00:24:11.470 --> 00:24:16.849
trained with the same program with me. But it

00:24:16.849 --> 00:24:18.910
feels like I'm not getting bigger. You know,

00:24:18.950 --> 00:24:22.410
my muscle is still the same. Okay. But are you

00:24:22.410 --> 00:24:25.269
getting stronger? Yeah, I think I'm getting stronger.

00:24:25.829 --> 00:24:29.289
Okay. But I'm not getting bigger, you know. Do

00:24:29.289 --> 00:24:32.029
you want to get bigger? Yeah, it's been two years.

00:24:34.069 --> 00:24:39.589
My first day. In the gym section, in the national

00:24:39.589 --> 00:24:45.609
team, my weight is 58. And it's been two years,

00:24:45.690 --> 00:24:51.829
and I'm still 59, 50, 58, 60. Like weight? Yeah,

00:24:51.849 --> 00:24:55.069
my weight. Oh, so then you're not really getting

00:24:55.069 --> 00:24:59.789
stronger? Yeah. Oh, okay. That's why I'm confused,

00:24:59.990 --> 00:25:04.190
but I'm getting faster. Yeah. That's good. I

00:25:04.190 --> 00:25:06.069
thought you meant that you just wanted to like

00:25:06.069 --> 00:25:09.410
get physically bigger looking. Yeah. Yeah. Like,

00:25:09.509 --> 00:25:13.309
I mean, when you're training strength every day,

00:25:13.670 --> 00:25:16.710
you will be getting bigger, right? Yeah. It's

00:25:16.710 --> 00:25:20.309
not happened to me. Okay. I guess it doesn't

00:25:20.309 --> 00:25:22.069
matter as long as you're still getting faster.

00:25:22.450 --> 00:25:26.509
Yeah. Maybe in the future. Kiramo is really big.

00:25:27.410 --> 00:25:31.869
Kiramo? Kiramo, Zai Cheng, Sam. It's really big.

00:25:32.309 --> 00:25:36.599
Yeah. Maybe you should ask what they do. That's

00:25:36.599 --> 00:25:39.900
what they do. What about off -the -wall drills?

00:25:40.339 --> 00:25:43.740
Do you have any... I see people do a lot of track

00:25:43.740 --> 00:25:46.619
and field kind of exercises for speed climbing.

00:25:46.819 --> 00:25:51.839
Do you do any of that? Yeah. We're doing sprint

00:25:51.839 --> 00:25:58.960
and pylometry. We call it pylometry. It's a lot

00:25:58.960 --> 00:26:03.650
of variations we do. We jump on the... What is

00:26:03.650 --> 00:26:09.390
that? Like big mattress. We jump to it and we

00:26:09.390 --> 00:26:13.529
do a lot of variations. I don't know the name,

00:26:13.569 --> 00:26:17.930
but I think it's like eight variations in that

00:26:17.930 --> 00:26:20.069
training. And you feel like those have been helpful?

00:26:20.390 --> 00:26:24.690
It's really helpful. I can reach 4 .72 with that

00:26:24.690 --> 00:26:27.549
program. Have you made any changes to your beta?

00:26:27.930 --> 00:26:32.279
No, still safe. But I've improved my beta. So

00:26:32.279 --> 00:26:35.339
I can, I can, I can get smoothly, smoothly everything.

00:26:35.640 --> 00:26:38.880
Like what is there left to improve? In my top

00:26:38.880 --> 00:26:42.000
section, it's, there is still a lot of, I don't

00:26:42.000 --> 00:26:44.700
know, a lot, a little bit, uh, like a pause.

00:26:45.539 --> 00:26:50.819
When I skip the 14 volt, I'm still like, like

00:26:50.819 --> 00:26:54.000
a little bit, a little bit stuck there. So I

00:26:54.000 --> 00:26:57.539
want to improve that. Like, you know, I, I saw

00:26:57.539 --> 00:27:00.839
Zoe Chang climbing and it's really, really smooth.

00:27:01.700 --> 00:27:05.400
I think if I can improve in the top section,

00:27:05.660 --> 00:27:10.740
maybe I can go like that. I can hit 4 .6 and

00:27:10.740 --> 00:27:15.380
4 .5. Do you think there's anything from bouldering

00:27:15.380 --> 00:27:17.859
and lead that's been helpful for you with speed

00:27:17.859 --> 00:27:20.579
climbing? Or do you still boulder ever? When

00:27:20.579 --> 00:27:25.059
people ask me what's the reason you can improve

00:27:25.059 --> 00:27:27.660
so fast in speed, I think because I already climbed

00:27:27.660 --> 00:27:32.549
in boulder for nine years. I already built my

00:27:32.549 --> 00:27:36.650
muscle for that. So when I switch to speed, it's

00:27:36.650 --> 00:27:41.269
easy for me to start it. Like, you know, I never

00:27:41.269 --> 00:27:47.529
trained with speed programs. So when I'm training

00:27:47.529 --> 00:27:50.609
with speed programs, I can improve so fast. What

00:27:50.609 --> 00:27:52.789
from Boulder and LEED helped you, you think?

00:27:53.190 --> 00:27:56.269
The strength one. Like, I do a lot of endurance

00:27:56.269 --> 00:27:59.740
in LEED and Boulder, right? Like, I'm climbing

00:27:59.740 --> 00:28:03.420
in lead and boulder program. It's, I think, one

00:28:03.420 --> 00:28:09.700
hour in the wall. And I do that almost every

00:28:09.700 --> 00:28:15.880
day. So it feels harder than speed program. Wait,

00:28:15.920 --> 00:28:19.180
do you still, like, boulder and lead climb? Not

00:28:19.180 --> 00:28:22.359
many. Okay. Ever? Yeah, I'm just climbing lead

00:28:22.359 --> 00:28:25.339
and boulder for fun. Like, when I go to Bali,

00:28:25.460 --> 00:28:28.279
I will climb with my friends just for fun. Do

00:28:28.279 --> 00:28:30.200
you still feel like you're pretty good at it?

00:28:30.279 --> 00:28:36.200
Or have your skills gotten worse? Maybe my...

00:28:36.200 --> 00:28:44.220
I can do V8 or V9. Not bad, not bad. For not

00:28:44.220 --> 00:28:51.960
climbing at all. And I can go 70 or 76. Yeah,

00:28:51.960 --> 00:28:55.470
that's pretty good then. So then let's talk about

00:28:55.470 --> 00:28:58.869
like the new speed relay format. This is the

00:28:58.869 --> 00:29:02.089
first time that the audience or the world climbing

00:29:02.089 --> 00:29:05.029
audience has seen speed relay. I know you guys

00:29:05.029 --> 00:29:08.170
have been testing it for a long time. So what

00:29:08.170 --> 00:29:10.869
are your thoughts on the new relay and mixed

00:29:10.869 --> 00:29:14.900
relay format? For the new relay format. We are

00:29:14.900 --> 00:29:19.480
already trying it in training. Please excuse

00:29:19.480 --> 00:29:22.140
this brief intermission, but if you're interested

00:29:22.140 --> 00:29:24.599
in ad -free episodes and would like to unlock

00:29:24.599 --> 00:29:27.119
over four hours of deleted scenes, including

00:29:27.119 --> 00:29:30.140
one where Robby talks about his recent PB and

00:29:30.140 --> 00:29:33.480
how focused Indonesian climbers are, do consider

00:29:33.480 --> 00:29:36.799
helping support this podcast on Patreon. Some

00:29:36.799 --> 00:29:38.779
other perks include a membership pin shipped

00:29:38.779 --> 00:29:41.359
to you after two months, prioritized guest questions,

00:29:41.380 --> 00:29:44.210
or the ability to submit video questions. and

00:29:44.210 --> 00:29:47.150
more to come. The proceeds go back in the podcast

00:29:47.150 --> 00:29:49.490
to help me break even, and they help me improve

00:29:49.490 --> 00:29:52.210
the experience of the guests. If you'd like to

00:29:52.210 --> 00:29:54.650
help out non -monetarily, liking, commenting,

00:29:54.710 --> 00:29:57.650
and sharing helps a great deal as well. Back

00:29:57.650 --> 00:30:16.900
to the show! foundation which gives so when we

00:30:16.900 --> 00:30:21.460
competing in krakow is already we already yeah

00:30:21.460 --> 00:30:26.940
we get used to it but for for land format it's

00:30:26.940 --> 00:30:31.160
new probably i never completed that format so

00:30:31.160 --> 00:30:36.680
it's new for me and uh it's kind of hard to focus

00:30:36.680 --> 00:30:38.700
on myself because there's so many distractions

00:30:38.700 --> 00:30:43.380
also There's four climbers in one war room. Yeah,

00:30:43.500 --> 00:30:47.859
it's a lot. So my mistake in that new format

00:30:47.859 --> 00:30:51.980
is I false start. It's happened to me many times.

00:30:52.079 --> 00:30:56.259
That's the reason I'm not qualified to Asian

00:30:56.259 --> 00:31:00.960
Games because I'm false start when I compete

00:31:00.960 --> 00:31:05.440
in Asian Games. So I'm not qualified for the

00:31:05.440 --> 00:31:09.109
Games. I guess before we get into that, what's

00:31:09.109 --> 00:31:12.069
your favorite of like the three between just

00:31:12.069 --> 00:31:15.369
like regular speed climbing versus the relay

00:31:15.369 --> 00:31:18.609
speed climbing and then like mixed relay speed

00:31:18.609 --> 00:31:22.210
climbing my favorite it's regular speed of course

00:31:22.210 --> 00:31:27.490
my favorite one and the second one is uh normal

00:31:27.490 --> 00:31:30.029
normal relay and the last one is mixed relay

00:31:30.029 --> 00:31:33.519
okay even though you got a medal in mixed relay.

00:31:33.799 --> 00:31:36.500
What, I guess, is mixed relay? There's just even

00:31:36.500 --> 00:31:40.460
more stuff happening. It's hard to focus. How

00:31:40.460 --> 00:31:43.380
does team selection work for relays? This was

00:31:43.380 --> 00:31:45.880
one of the audience questions as well. So usually

00:31:45.880 --> 00:31:50.420
we're looking for the fastest one in our team

00:31:50.420 --> 00:31:56.920
and we're pairing it. And we search for a connection.

00:32:00.490 --> 00:32:05.390
chemistry. We're looking for chemistry and if

00:32:05.390 --> 00:32:10.869
we already found it, yeah, we get there. And

00:32:10.869 --> 00:32:13.029
we're looking for the best time. My best time

00:32:13.029 --> 00:32:19.549
in training with RRJT is 10, 10 .06 or 10 .03.

00:32:19.710 --> 00:32:22.150
I forgot. How is training different for the relay?

00:32:22.470 --> 00:32:25.890
I think there is no difference with regular speed.

00:32:26.190 --> 00:32:30.509
You just do full run. many times to looking for

00:32:30.509 --> 00:32:36.190
chemistry and we do every activity together right

00:32:36.190 --> 00:32:40.750
in the morning we take coffee together and when

00:32:40.750 --> 00:32:44.230
the warm -up section we warm up together we play

00:32:44.230 --> 00:32:50.670
together so i don't know what's what's the relation

00:32:50.670 --> 00:32:56.549
in in timing but it works it's kind of like part

00:32:56.549 --> 00:33:00.220
of the ritual then Yeah, yeah. I can say that.

00:33:00.460 --> 00:33:03.160
And then what about with like Dezak? Like same

00:33:03.160 --> 00:33:05.980
thing? With Dezak, it's much easier. I can say

00:33:05.980 --> 00:33:08.880
that. Oh, why is that? Because you're already

00:33:08.880 --> 00:33:14.920
training really with two person. But the challenge

00:33:14.920 --> 00:33:22.160
is you switch. I become the first person and

00:33:22.160 --> 00:33:26.500
Dezak becomes the second person. Yeah. Because

00:33:26.500 --> 00:33:29.079
when I pair with Yadi, I am the second person.

00:33:29.420 --> 00:33:32.019
What's the strategy between being first or second?

00:33:32.480 --> 00:33:38.880
The strategy is... We think about it and... We

00:33:38.880 --> 00:33:45.440
say to each other like... If individual climbing,

00:33:45.700 --> 00:33:53.039
we climb for ourselves. But in team, we climb

00:33:53.039 --> 00:33:56.450
together. I climb for you and... you came from

00:33:56.450 --> 00:34:04.430
it so just focus and yeah and just do it so there

00:34:04.430 --> 00:34:08.050
is no pressure in that we success as a team and

00:34:08.050 --> 00:34:11.369
we failed as a team so there is there is no pressure

00:34:11.369 --> 00:34:14.650
that feels like a lot more pressure actually

00:34:14.650 --> 00:34:20.889
yeah yeah i i feel it like you know in in relay

00:34:20.889 --> 00:34:25.440
when i climb with rajat in turku Karajati makes

00:34:25.440 --> 00:34:30.619
mistake in round 4 and the bronze medal race.

00:34:31.619 --> 00:34:36.559
And I said to him, like, it's okay. We climb

00:34:36.559 --> 00:34:40.920
as a team and we fail as a team. There is no,

00:34:41.000 --> 00:34:45.300
there is no, it's your fault or it's my fault.

00:34:45.320 --> 00:34:48.619
There is no that. So you don't feel more pressure

00:34:48.619 --> 00:34:51.679
in a team format? Because we climb together.

00:34:52.219 --> 00:34:55.360
It's different when you climb for yourself and

00:34:55.360 --> 00:34:58.199
for your country. There's a lot of people see

00:34:58.199 --> 00:35:03.920
you. I think there's a lot of pressure on that.

00:35:04.380 --> 00:35:06.179
Well, okay. It's good that you don't feel that

00:35:06.179 --> 00:35:10.659
pressure. But I was wondering, how do you decide

00:35:10.659 --> 00:35:14.780
who goes first and who goes second? In Harjati

00:35:14.780 --> 00:35:19.429
and me. Because I do a lot of false stunts, so

00:35:19.429 --> 00:35:25.130
they put me in the second one. Because this kid,

00:35:25.289 --> 00:35:28.730
I'm a little false stunts, so they put me in

00:35:28.730 --> 00:35:36.750
the second one. But with Lezak, they put me in

00:35:36.750 --> 00:35:42.969
the first because that's the best strategy for

00:35:42.969 --> 00:35:46.199
us. Because when we change... When we change,

00:35:46.480 --> 00:35:52.219
you cannot make it. It's different. When your

00:35:52.219 --> 00:36:00.000
opponent go male first, and then it's female

00:36:00.000 --> 00:36:08.039
first, the result is I have to recover. Yeah,

00:36:08.119 --> 00:36:12.420
I have to chase the next item. And I think that's

00:36:12.420 --> 00:36:15.289
much pressure. it would stress you out because

00:36:15.289 --> 00:36:18.710
you can see yeah yeah yeah so you want to start

00:36:18.710 --> 00:36:22.949
out stronger yeah and give a lead okay yeah i

00:36:22.949 --> 00:36:27.530
think that makes sense um can't you still false

00:36:27.530 --> 00:36:40.409
start going second uh Well, I guess I don't even

00:36:40.409 --> 00:36:43.789
know how it works. How does the second person

00:36:43.789 --> 00:36:47.349
know when to go? In Krakow, there is a little

00:36:47.349 --> 00:36:52.190
lamp in the bottom of the next hole. So when

00:36:52.190 --> 00:36:57.090
they hit the pad, I can see the green light in

00:36:57.090 --> 00:37:00.989
the bottom of the hole. So I can see it. But

00:37:00.989 --> 00:37:05.619
I'm focused on my, you know, in the... I still

00:37:05.619 --> 00:37:11.340
can reach this up in my eye when I focus on the

00:37:11.340 --> 00:37:14.900
hole. So I can see that when this up hit the

00:37:14.900 --> 00:37:18.159
pad, I can go for it. And so it's harder to false

00:37:18.159 --> 00:37:20.320
start because you don't have like the beeps going.

00:37:20.519 --> 00:37:22.400
And so it's kind of just like you see it and

00:37:22.400 --> 00:37:24.840
you go. So I think one of the audience question

00:37:24.840 --> 00:37:27.099
was, did you know that they were going to do

00:37:27.099 --> 00:37:30.000
four lanes? And was that distracting for you?

00:37:30.429 --> 00:37:33.750
uh before we go to poland you never expect that

00:37:33.750 --> 00:37:37.030
it will be four legs so we're not training for

00:37:37.030 --> 00:37:41.630
lanes but in the same times it's challenge for

00:37:41.630 --> 00:37:45.309
us so yeah it's fun is there like a preferred

00:37:45.309 --> 00:37:48.670
lane that you liked being in my favorite lane

00:37:48.670 --> 00:37:53.769
it's on a or in g because that's the you're surrounded

00:37:53.769 --> 00:37:57.449
by less people i don't like in the little one

00:37:57.449 --> 00:38:04.480
yeah i can see I guess based on your standings

00:38:04.480 --> 00:38:08.019
or the seating round, they put the faster people

00:38:08.019 --> 00:38:13.199
in the middle lane. I think the fastest person

00:38:13.199 --> 00:38:18.300
will be on B. The second fastest person is on

00:38:18.300 --> 00:38:21.659
C. The third one is on A. And the last one is

00:38:21.659 --> 00:38:25.920
on D. Oh, I'm only now realizing, like, is that

00:38:25.920 --> 00:38:28.980
why in like track and field and swimming, people

00:38:28.980 --> 00:38:32.619
are also like that? Like they also put faster

00:38:32.619 --> 00:38:34.519
people in the middle because it's distracting.

00:38:35.099 --> 00:38:39.260
Yeah. Wow, I never thought of that before. So

00:38:39.260 --> 00:38:41.139
many years that I've watched the Olympics and

00:38:41.139 --> 00:38:43.800
that never came to mind for me. I think because

00:38:43.800 --> 00:38:48.579
the individual regular speed, it's when you get

00:38:48.579 --> 00:38:52.179
higher rank, you will put on A, right? Yeah.

00:38:52.300 --> 00:38:56.659
And the second person is on B. That's why the

00:38:56.659 --> 00:38:59.539
first one in the format in four lane format is

00:38:59.539 --> 00:39:03.260
on A and on B. And the second one's on C. You

00:39:03.260 --> 00:39:06.940
know, when you climb just with one person, it

00:39:06.940 --> 00:39:10.659
feels like, you know, when you climb, it's the

00:39:10.659 --> 00:39:15.360
wall, it's vibration because we climb together,

00:39:15.519 --> 00:39:19.659
right? So just imagine we climb with three other

00:39:19.659 --> 00:39:24.110
people. i i feel that oh okay okay cool well

00:39:24.110 --> 00:39:28.349
then i think i also just want to get into a bit

00:39:28.349 --> 00:39:31.610
more about climbing in indonesia um you're the

00:39:31.610 --> 00:39:33.869
first indonesian athlete that i've interviewed

00:39:33.869 --> 00:39:37.349
so yeah i'm excited to hear more about what climbing

00:39:37.349 --> 00:39:40.449
is like there yeah um yeah can you tell us about

00:39:40.449 --> 00:39:43.269
what the scene is like there a lot of gym in

00:39:43.269 --> 00:39:47.949
here like In Bali, there is a lot. And in Jakarta,

00:39:48.070 --> 00:39:51.250
there is a lot of gym. And now in Surabaya and

00:39:51.250 --> 00:39:56.750
big, big town in Indonesia, there is a lot of

00:39:56.750 --> 00:40:00.829
gym, climbing gym. But for speed climbing, it's

00:40:00.829 --> 00:40:05.130
a little bit hard. A little bit hard. We're looking

00:40:05.130 --> 00:40:08.269
for speed climbing in this. Is it all newer or

00:40:08.269 --> 00:40:11.230
has climbing been around for a long time in Indonesia?

00:40:11.690 --> 00:40:15.929
It's newer. I can say it's new. because when

00:40:15.929 --> 00:40:19.969
you open gym climbing gym for lead and boulder

00:40:19.969 --> 00:40:24.210
there's a lot of people want to try but if speed

00:40:24.210 --> 00:40:28.150
is different yeah how so yeah it's i think it's

00:40:28.150 --> 00:40:31.969
not for public right people in and they want

00:40:31.969 --> 00:40:37.150
to try climbing they prefer boulder or lead that's

00:40:37.150 --> 00:40:40.289
why a lot of boulder and lead gym in asia right

00:40:40.289 --> 00:40:43.360
now but not for speed. Yeah, I guess I still

00:40:43.360 --> 00:40:46.219
find that surprising because, yeah, Indonesia

00:40:46.219 --> 00:40:49.599
is kind of known for speed climbing. So then,

00:40:49.679 --> 00:40:53.420
with few speed climbing gyms, like, how did you,

00:40:53.440 --> 00:40:56.500
how did you guys become so dominant in speed

00:40:56.500 --> 00:41:00.760
climbing? After, after Frederick got the gold

00:41:00.760 --> 00:41:04.039
from Olympia, Olympic, they support us more.

00:41:04.199 --> 00:41:08.099
The Japanese, like, noticed us. So, they built

00:41:08.099 --> 00:41:12.480
a new, new gym. like the youth national camp

00:41:12.480 --> 00:41:18.800
for young generation so we can we can make the

00:41:18.800 --> 00:41:21.659
other athletes we can regeneration our athletes

00:41:21.659 --> 00:41:27.780
and yeah they support us more than the folks

00:41:27.780 --> 00:41:31.880
but even before vedrick won at the olympics i

00:41:31.880 --> 00:41:34.800
feel like you guys were already really good so

00:41:34.800 --> 00:41:39.949
yeah i think it's because speed climbing is this

00:41:39.949 --> 00:41:44.289
the cost of speed climbing is is not that much

00:41:44.289 --> 00:41:47.849
it's different with lid and border because we

00:41:47.849 --> 00:41:51.309
have to every time we have to buy a new follow

00:41:51.309 --> 00:41:57.489
a new hole for one climbing but for speed it's

00:41:57.489 --> 00:42:00.349
it's all the same right so we can we can buy

00:42:00.349 --> 00:42:06.389
one wonderful for one set and we can use it until

00:42:06.389 --> 00:42:12.159
maybe 200, 300, 400 years. Yeah. But for boulder

00:42:12.159 --> 00:42:14.659
and lead, we have to buy a lot of volume and

00:42:14.659 --> 00:42:17.699
we have to buy it every year. Yeah, that's true.

00:42:17.860 --> 00:42:21.019
Do you have a lot of speed coaches there also?

00:42:21.539 --> 00:42:24.739
Yeah, in the province, we have national competition

00:42:24.739 --> 00:42:33.659
every four years. We call it PON. P -O -N. And

00:42:33.659 --> 00:42:36.619
from there is a lot of good speed riding there.

00:42:37.360 --> 00:42:43.039
A lot of good coaches, a lot of athletes who

00:42:43.039 --> 00:42:50.159
can reach. Maybe the last one is for athletes

00:42:50.159 --> 00:42:54.579
can reach sub -5 in that competition, in national

00:42:54.579 --> 00:42:57.039
competition. And I think that's really amazing.

00:42:57.280 --> 00:43:02.320
And I think now, just recently this season, there

00:43:02.320 --> 00:43:04.719
have been a lot of good boulder and lead climbers

00:43:04.719 --> 00:43:07.940
too. It seems like that's been developing in

00:43:07.940 --> 00:43:11.719
Indonesia as well. What do you think led to the

00:43:11.719 --> 00:43:14.400
fast, like, recent improvements in Boulder and

00:43:14.400 --> 00:43:18.519
LEAD? I think it's on the person. Like, you know,

00:43:18.539 --> 00:43:24.239
Putra, I've been competing with Putra since I

00:43:24.239 --> 00:43:29.559
was a kid, like, since 2015. I will share with

00:43:29.559 --> 00:43:35.380
you, like, the photo of me and Putra. We're climbing

00:43:35.380 --> 00:43:42.900
together since 2015 in youth competition. And

00:43:42.900 --> 00:43:45.519
then we moved to national youth competition together.

00:43:46.739 --> 00:43:51.219
We got medals in there. And we moved to Asian

00:43:51.219 --> 00:43:54.539
youth competition. We also got the medal. And

00:43:54.539 --> 00:43:58.019
in Chamonix, we got medal together also in award

00:43:58.019 --> 00:44:02.599
stage. And I hope we can get the medal together

00:44:02.599 --> 00:44:08.880
in Olympic. That'd be really cool. And I think

00:44:08.880 --> 00:44:15.019
Putra has different motivation in national camp.

00:44:15.559 --> 00:44:24.739
I saw Putra many times training by himself and

00:44:24.739 --> 00:44:31.360
he got a big motivation to be the first The first

00:44:31.360 --> 00:44:35.780
athlete from Indonesia who cannot reach the goals

00:44:35.780 --> 00:44:39.119
in the world climbing. And then he did. Yeah.

00:44:39.480 --> 00:44:42.920
It's crazy. He was just training by himself?

00:44:43.500 --> 00:44:47.300
Yeah. I don't know. I mean, he already got the

00:44:47.300 --> 00:44:51.920
program, but he wants to train more than the

00:44:51.920 --> 00:44:59.139
others. And he did that a lot of time. He did

00:44:59.139 --> 00:45:03.570
that. He really, I think he obsessed with the

00:45:03.570 --> 00:45:07.269
podium. And then he did. It was really cool to

00:45:07.269 --> 00:45:10.250
see. Yeah, yeah, yeah. So it wasn't even like

00:45:10.250 --> 00:45:13.590
he started training with anyone new or he got

00:45:13.590 --> 00:45:16.429
a new coach or anything like, or like new gym

00:45:16.429 --> 00:45:19.329
or anything like that. Just more training. We

00:45:19.329 --> 00:45:26.170
just changed the coach for Litton Boulder. And

00:45:26.170 --> 00:45:29.889
I think that's... Also, that's the reason for

00:45:29.889 --> 00:45:36.750
Putra, why he can improve. Because I think he

00:45:36.750 --> 00:45:43.550
got the other UV from the other coats. And yeah,

00:45:43.590 --> 00:45:46.750
he did. So then thinking about your goals for,

00:45:46.829 --> 00:45:50.690
say, like next year, do you have any goals in

00:45:50.690 --> 00:45:54.329
mind? I think my target is on work climbing.

00:45:54.469 --> 00:45:59.570
I want to be... more consistent in the podium.

00:46:00.369 --> 00:46:06.829
My target is the first podium. I never filled

00:46:06.829 --> 00:46:13.070
that podium. I almost did that, but yeah, I failed.

00:46:13.429 --> 00:46:16.610
So my target is to do well for World Climbing

00:46:16.610 --> 00:46:24.909
and be ranked number one in the World Climbing

00:46:24.909 --> 00:46:31.139
in 2027. And in the 2028, I want to qualify for

00:46:31.139 --> 00:46:33.860
the Olympics and then win it. If I break the

00:46:33.860 --> 00:46:37.619
world record, it's a burden for me. Yeah, I mean,

00:46:37.699 --> 00:46:42.519
that's a big goal. Yeah. What are you doing to

00:46:42.519 --> 00:46:46.420
achieve that? Just like more training? More training

00:46:46.420 --> 00:46:52.199
and learn. Learn from the best. i i see the how

00:46:52.199 --> 00:46:54.920
they change climbing how long jingo friend being

00:46:54.920 --> 00:46:59.519
and how sam watson climbing and when i compete

00:46:59.519 --> 00:47:06.860
with them in one event i see how how they treat

00:47:06.860 --> 00:47:12.059
himself how how they can get come in any pressure

00:47:12.059 --> 00:47:18.639
how they uh setting goals for themselves that's

00:47:18.639 --> 00:47:24.309
what i learned and I will do that to myself and

00:47:24.309 --> 00:47:34.550
to be more than them. To be more faster and to

00:47:34.550 --> 00:47:41.670
be consistent. You know when Sam and Zoe Cheng

00:47:41.670 --> 00:47:48.699
climbing, there is... I think I can say... Every

00:47:48.699 --> 00:47:51.300
time they're climbing, there is no slip. They

00:47:51.300 --> 00:47:54.980
just did that one time in 10. They always make

00:47:54.980 --> 00:47:59.000
perfect runs. And that's what I still learn from

00:47:59.000 --> 00:48:02.119
them. Yeah, I guess what's one thing that you

00:48:02.119 --> 00:48:05.719
would say you want to take away from Sam's climbing

00:48:05.719 --> 00:48:11.199
versus Zoe Chang's? The mentality. Do you remember

00:48:11.199 --> 00:48:14.260
when Sam broke the record in Bali? Yeah, yeah,

00:48:14.340 --> 00:48:18.679
yeah. That's my first World Cup debut. And I

00:48:18.679 --> 00:48:27.860
saw when Sam was in the gold race, Sam's opponent

00:48:27.860 --> 00:48:32.500
was Foster. And I think at that time, Sam would

00:48:32.500 --> 00:48:37.980
just celebrate and then come back and get the

00:48:37.980 --> 00:48:45.079
podium, but he's not. He faced the crowd and

00:48:45.079 --> 00:48:49.420
he left. his hand and say, do you want more?

00:48:49.940 --> 00:48:54.760
And then he did. He broke the record. Oh, I do

00:48:54.760 --> 00:48:58.579
remember that. He just cried by himself like,

00:48:58.699 --> 00:49:03.119
what the fuck? That's mentality. That's really

00:49:03.119 --> 00:49:09.079
crazy. I just imagine when you already did that

00:49:09.079 --> 00:49:12.019
and then you slip. That's true. But he's not.

00:49:13.340 --> 00:49:18.099
He did it. The crazy part is you proved the word

00:49:18.099 --> 00:49:20.780
right from Seth. Really amazing. Yeah, that was

00:49:20.780 --> 00:49:25.539
a cool moment. That's one moment I always remember.

00:49:26.840 --> 00:49:30.579
And I can say that's a lot of honor from Seth.

00:49:30.880 --> 00:49:34.260
Yeah, that's true. And then what about one thing

00:49:34.260 --> 00:49:37.400
from Zhao Yicheng? From Zhao Yicheng, it's...

00:49:37.400 --> 00:49:44.099
I already heard his name many times. When I competed

00:49:44.099 --> 00:49:48.079
in World Youth, I entered Zoe Cheng. And then

00:49:48.079 --> 00:49:54.500
when I streamed the World Youth competition in

00:49:54.500 --> 00:50:02.780
2005 in Finland, I saw Zoe Cheng hit 4 .8. And

00:50:02.780 --> 00:50:04.619
that's really crazy. In that time, it was still

00:50:04.619 --> 00:50:11.900
4 .9. And my thought is, how if? this this guy

00:50:11.900 --> 00:50:16.420
compete in world cup it will be very very amazing

00:50:16.420 --> 00:50:25.679
and i want to be i want to be like because when

00:50:25.679 --> 00:50:30.860
i compete with zoe chang in asian youth i i i

00:50:30.860 --> 00:50:37.400
see like he's enjoying with with his life like

00:50:37.400 --> 00:50:42.519
when i work up i'm i'm run and do every do every

00:50:42.519 --> 00:50:45.679
ritual I had and so I think just playing with

00:50:45.679 --> 00:50:49.039
basketball and listening listening to the music

00:50:49.039 --> 00:50:52.940
and just do a little bordering and then fucking

00:50:52.940 --> 00:50:57.840
win like bro you you're climbing in your in your

00:50:57.840 --> 00:51:03.119
country in in front of crowded and you just enjoy

00:51:03.119 --> 00:51:06.139
this game what the fuck so he doesn't have rituals

00:51:06.139 --> 00:51:12.909
yeah I'm learning I'm learning how Sam manage

00:51:12.909 --> 00:51:16.210
his mentality. And in Zhaicheng, I learned how

00:51:16.210 --> 00:51:18.369
to enjoy the conversation. Yeah, that's a good

00:51:18.369 --> 00:51:23.070
mentality to have. And then also thinking about

00:51:23.070 --> 00:51:26.489
the Olympics in the future, is Team Relay something

00:51:26.489 --> 00:51:29.570
that you want to see in the Olympics? Yeah, that's

00:51:29.570 --> 00:51:37.269
really interesting. So if a lot of format. will

00:51:37.269 --> 00:51:39.889
be compete in olympic there is more at it we

00:51:39.889 --> 00:51:43.670
can compete in olympics so it will be more interesting

00:51:43.670 --> 00:51:47.309
and there is will be more medals in the olympic

00:51:47.309 --> 00:51:50.289
do you see yourself still competing at that point

00:51:50.289 --> 00:51:55.610
20 32 you'll be 20 24 years old of course yeah

00:51:55.610 --> 00:52:00.329
okay uh i always imagine that i can't climbing

00:52:00.329 --> 00:52:07.460
until 2000 2036 okay Yeah, it makes sense. I

00:52:07.460 --> 00:52:11.900
want to compete in three Olympics, 2008, 2022,

00:52:12.119 --> 00:52:17.539
and 2036. Okay, and then outside of climbing,

00:52:17.739 --> 00:52:19.760
do you have time for anything else? Is there

00:52:19.760 --> 00:52:23.619
anything else you enjoy? Of course, I have many

00:52:23.619 --> 00:52:28.059
hobbies. I really enjoy when I play video games

00:52:28.059 --> 00:52:33.000
and I like playing football with my friends.

00:52:34.599 --> 00:52:40.320
And I'm studying also. Right now, I'm in a university,

00:52:40.480 --> 00:52:46.940
I think, and I have a national relation. So it's

00:52:46.940 --> 00:52:51.659
matched with what I do. And when I'm climbing,

00:52:51.760 --> 00:52:55.480
I meet a lot of people, international people.

00:52:55.840 --> 00:52:58.219
Yeah, how do you balance all of your training

00:52:58.219 --> 00:53:03.780
plus studying? My university supports me. That's

00:53:03.780 --> 00:53:06.539
the reason I can focus on my climbing, but I

00:53:06.539 --> 00:53:10.440
can enjoy studying also. Like, they're not giving

00:53:10.440 --> 00:53:16.579
pressure on me. Like, I'm studying with joy.

00:53:17.260 --> 00:53:23.139
And when I ask them how to study with this exam

00:53:23.139 --> 00:53:29.320
or what, they tell me and they guide me. So it's

00:53:29.320 --> 00:53:31.500
easy. Okay, well, those are all the questions

00:53:31.500 --> 00:53:34.340
I had. So let's get into a few of the audience

00:53:34.340 --> 00:53:37.559
submitted questions now. Some are from Instagram,

00:53:37.780 --> 00:53:40.760
some are from the Discord. So the first one from

00:53:40.760 --> 00:53:46.199
Instagram from Thir for sure. It came in in Indonesian,

00:53:46.380 --> 00:53:50.340
but I translated it for myself. And it just asks,

00:53:50.460 --> 00:53:56.300
how do you handle burnout? Easily. I do everything

00:53:56.300 --> 00:54:03.659
that I can enjoy. Like walking and get the fresh

00:54:03.659 --> 00:54:11.179
air or reading book or take a shower. Okay. Take

00:54:11.179 --> 00:54:15.539
a shower and I like quiet place. If I burn out,

00:54:15.599 --> 00:54:22.079
I like quiet place. Just myself. And I talk a

00:54:22.079 --> 00:54:26.789
lot with myself. How to get out in this situation

00:54:26.789 --> 00:54:33.550
and how to talk with my thoughts. And usually

00:54:33.550 --> 00:54:39.510
I will talk to people that I love, like my family.

00:54:40.429 --> 00:54:44.969
And yeah, it will get me better. I guess what's

00:54:44.969 --> 00:54:47.210
like the longest amount of time that you felt

00:54:47.210 --> 00:54:51.349
burnout? A little bit long. I think one week.

00:54:51.710 --> 00:54:54.409
Oh, I don't think that's super long. Not really.

00:54:54.650 --> 00:54:57.449
I mean, I was thinking like months or, yeah.

00:54:57.769 --> 00:55:00.250
I think one until two weeks. Do you usually feel

00:55:00.250 --> 00:55:02.630
burnout if you've had like a bad competition

00:55:02.630 --> 00:55:05.610
or is it just from too much training? Last year

00:55:05.610 --> 00:55:07.889
is my worst. I think, yeah, that's my lowest

00:55:07.889 --> 00:55:13.550
position. Yeah, because my mom passed away in

00:55:13.550 --> 00:55:18.530
April of 2025. Oh, I'm sorry. At that time, I...

00:55:19.699 --> 00:55:25.260
And at that time, I had to debut on Bali. So

00:55:25.260 --> 00:55:28.199
I think one until two weeks after my mom passed

00:55:28.199 --> 00:55:33.559
away, I debuted in Bali. And I want to give my

00:55:33.559 --> 00:55:38.000
best result in there. I wish I can go to the

00:55:38.000 --> 00:55:41.920
podium, but I can't make it. And after that competition,

00:55:42.300 --> 00:55:47.079
I go to Poland and go to Chamonix. And that's

00:55:47.079 --> 00:55:51.090
not going well for me. and that's threw me out

00:55:51.090 --> 00:55:58.110
that I'm stressed out but I'm realized that it's

00:55:58.110 --> 00:56:03.929
not for the point it's you rather you rather

00:56:03.929 --> 00:56:08.389
be stressed out every time or you want to move

00:56:08.389 --> 00:56:15.630
up you have to move on and want to improve and

00:56:15.630 --> 00:56:20.019
yeah I choose to improve myself i forget it and

00:56:20.019 --> 00:56:23.260
yeah step out okay well thank you for sharing

00:56:23.260 --> 00:56:27.880
uh sorry to hear that but yeah it's a lot better

00:56:27.880 --> 00:56:30.639
of a year now especially so far so i'm sure she

00:56:30.639 --> 00:56:33.420
would be very yeah and and i realized in that

00:56:33.420 --> 00:56:36.360
time there's still a lot of people who love me

00:56:36.360 --> 00:56:40.260
yeah i got my family i got girlfriends i have

00:56:40.260 --> 00:56:45.380
i got my friend yeah and there's still a lot

00:56:45.380 --> 00:56:51.090
of people who love me and that's why i I fight

00:56:51.090 --> 00:56:53.289
for them. Yeah, it's definitely important to

00:56:53.289 --> 00:56:56.369
have a lot of people around you who can help

00:56:56.369 --> 00:56:59.110
support. So the next audience question came in.

00:57:00.369 --> 00:57:05.050
How did you go from, I guess, it wasn't zero,

00:57:05.170 --> 00:57:09.469
but to World Cup silver in three years? What

00:57:09.469 --> 00:57:12.570
from your athletic background before you started

00:57:12.570 --> 00:57:16.050
climbing was helpful in getting better fast?

00:57:16.650 --> 00:57:19.250
I think because I trained in Lit and Boulder

00:57:19.250 --> 00:57:22.550
for nine years and I got stressed out. And when

00:57:22.550 --> 00:57:26.789
I switched to speed, it's like a new world, like

00:57:26.789 --> 00:57:30.670
new thing. That's why I'm getting excited. I'm

00:57:30.670 --> 00:57:33.190
training with joy every time I'm learning speed.

00:57:33.789 --> 00:57:37.389
I'm learning new better. I'm climbing with happiness

00:57:37.389 --> 00:57:39.889
and that's why. I think that's the reason I can

00:57:39.889 --> 00:57:43.269
improve so fast. I never feel that's heavy for

00:57:43.269 --> 00:57:47.460
me. It feels like joint. And did you not feel

00:57:47.460 --> 00:57:50.099
that when you were doing boulder and lead? I

00:57:50.099 --> 00:57:54.260
lost that. Okay. Because, yeah, my injury. Every

00:57:54.260 --> 00:57:58.280
time I climb, I feel, yeah, it's different. I'm

00:57:58.280 --> 00:58:00.639
not that strong anymore. I guess thinking about

00:58:00.639 --> 00:58:04.619
that, like a lot of boulder and lead athletes

00:58:04.619 --> 00:58:07.480
get finger injuries. Yeah, yeah, yeah. That just

00:58:07.480 --> 00:58:09.900
wasn't something you wanted to deal with. My

00:58:09.900 --> 00:58:15.760
finger skin falling out and... my middle bone

00:58:15.760 --> 00:58:18.619
middle finger bone got i don't know what's happened

00:58:18.619 --> 00:58:24.659
but i never i never got it i never go to the

00:58:24.659 --> 00:58:27.980
doctor but it's still better right now and i

00:58:27.980 --> 00:58:32.480
quite i quite bleed and water it's still better

00:58:32.480 --> 00:58:35.199
that's why i'm supposed to speak well i was talking

00:58:35.199 --> 00:58:39.099
to um eric noya and he said that Wait, was it

00:58:39.099 --> 00:58:41.360
him or someone? No, yeah. He said that you can

00:58:41.360 --> 00:58:43.920
still get pulley injuries in speed climbing.

00:58:44.219 --> 00:58:46.900
Because he said that if you only grab it, you

00:58:46.900 --> 00:58:49.960
don't credit super well. So then you still only

00:58:49.960 --> 00:58:51.980
get the edge. And then you put a lot of force

00:58:51.980 --> 00:58:54.340
down. I think that's happened to Frederick and

00:58:54.340 --> 00:58:57.219
Roy Jettish. Okay, but you haven't, so you don't

00:58:57.219 --> 00:59:02.539
care. I think because it's already happened to

00:59:02.539 --> 00:59:07.489
me and Ethan Walzer. So I think... My fingers

00:59:07.489 --> 00:59:10.329
missed it. Well, hopefully no more finger injuries

00:59:10.329 --> 00:59:13.130
for you then. Okay, next one. This one's interesting.

00:59:14.070 --> 00:59:16.210
I guess, and I've never thought about it before.

00:59:16.409 --> 00:59:19.130
Do you breathe at all during a run or do you

00:59:19.130 --> 00:59:22.150
hold your breath the whole time? Or do you do

00:59:22.150 --> 00:59:24.989
a big inhale and then exhale during the run?

00:59:25.250 --> 00:59:31.250
Yeah. Before they call my name to go in front

00:59:31.250 --> 00:59:34.429
of the wall, I do breathe box to calm down myself.

00:59:34.769 --> 00:59:39.949
And then... When I get in front of the wall,

00:59:41.070 --> 00:59:47.789
I close my eyes. I close my eyes and I'm getting

00:59:47.789 --> 00:59:53.349
focused with my breath. And I don't want to see

00:59:53.349 --> 00:59:57.070
the crowd because I just want to focus on myself.

00:59:58.010 --> 01:00:00.289
I don't care with the crowd. I don't care if

01:00:00.289 --> 01:00:05.429
there's a lot of people see me climbing. But

01:00:05.429 --> 01:00:09.429
the important thing is I want to be the best.

01:00:10.730 --> 01:00:13.969
And when I climb, I hold my breath until the

01:00:13.969 --> 01:00:16.829
top. Huh, okay. Yeah, I guess it's interesting

01:00:16.829 --> 01:00:20.530
to think about because it is only like four or

01:00:20.530 --> 01:00:22.409
five seconds long. I haven't thought about that

01:00:22.409 --> 01:00:26.269
before. Next question. Do you train any other

01:00:26.269 --> 01:00:29.650
sports to help with speed climbing? I can say

01:00:29.650 --> 01:00:34.920
a little bit. Because... I like to my hobbies

01:00:34.920 --> 01:00:39.480
is it's playing with my friends like yeah I do

01:00:39.480 --> 01:00:42.960
sport but not that much I think like playing

01:00:42.960 --> 01:00:49.780
football but it's really happen now and I spend

01:00:49.780 --> 01:00:54.239
my hobbies in game okay so I'm playing game a

01:00:54.239 --> 01:00:59.760
lot of fun so I think there's okay maybe like

01:01:00.400 --> 01:01:02.760
Playing games helps with your reaction time?

01:01:04.199 --> 01:01:10.340
No. And I think when I stop playing video games

01:01:10.340 --> 01:01:13.539
because I want to focus on myself, that helps

01:01:13.539 --> 01:01:17.320
me to get more focused. So the gaming does not

01:01:17.320 --> 01:01:19.500
help you at all? It does not help me at all.

01:01:19.739 --> 01:01:25.360
But it makes me forget my pressure. So sometimes...

01:01:25.719 --> 01:01:28.500
to forget my problems and my pressure. I play

01:01:28.500 --> 01:01:31.320
video games and I enjoy my time. Okay. And then

01:01:31.320 --> 01:01:35.159
last question of everything. This was from Febrian

01:01:35.159 --> 01:01:40.639
Mantera on Instagram. I think they said, describe

01:01:40.639 --> 01:01:46.039
Mr. Abbas, your first coach, and also Kaji Bim

01:01:46.039 --> 01:01:49.380
Bim. Oh, okay. I need some context there. Yeah,

01:01:49.380 --> 01:01:54.690
yeah, yeah. Okay, Mr. Abbas is my first, really

01:01:54.690 --> 01:02:02.630
my first coach when I was a kid. He's my first

01:02:02.630 --> 01:02:08.510
coach. And I think he's the one who told my parents

01:02:08.510 --> 01:02:13.050
that I have talents in this sport. And I can

01:02:13.050 --> 01:02:17.409
say he's the one who found my talent in this

01:02:17.409 --> 01:02:34.010
sport. And then he trained me. And every time

01:02:34.010 --> 01:02:38.349
I'm climbing, every time I'm competing, he still

01:02:38.349 --> 01:02:44.730
sometimes he send me a chat to make me improve

01:02:44.730 --> 01:02:49.070
my competition. And every time I go back to my

01:02:49.070 --> 01:02:55.099
town. I always go to him. And for Kaji Bim -Bim,

01:02:55.119 --> 01:02:59.900
Bim -Bim is my friend. And Kaji, it's a title

01:02:59.900 --> 01:03:05.579
when you're a Muslim and you get to pray to Arak.

01:03:05.719 --> 01:03:08.480
And when you come back, we will call you Kaji.

01:03:08.659 --> 01:03:13.500
So Kaji, I think it's just a joke. Okay. So it's,

01:03:13.500 --> 01:03:15.840
okay, it's Indonesian. I thought it was a person's

01:03:15.840 --> 01:03:19.119
name. No, no, it's just... title and you just

01:03:19.119 --> 01:03:21.559
make a joke. Gotcha. Yeah, I think this was another

01:03:21.559 --> 01:03:25.000
translation. So that was a hard one for me. Yeah.

01:03:25.699 --> 01:03:28.199
I was like, it kind of feels good. IG. Why is

01:03:28.199 --> 01:03:31.500
that IG? Yeah, I mean, your English is obviously

01:03:31.500 --> 01:03:35.559
way better than my Indonesian. So I'll have to,

01:03:35.559 --> 01:03:37.880
yeah, I'll have to get those translated better

01:03:37.880 --> 01:03:42.059
next time. Okay, well, then that is all the questions

01:03:42.059 --> 01:03:45.480
I had. Thank you for joining me today. Any like

01:03:45.480 --> 01:03:48.019
last minute words or thoughts you want to get

01:03:48.019 --> 01:03:51.380
out there uh i just want to say thank you for

01:03:51.380 --> 01:03:57.639
giving me this change so finally i can talk with

01:03:57.639 --> 01:04:03.420
someone and improve my english because i you

01:04:03.420 --> 01:04:06.719
know i have english issue because i'm not that

01:04:06.719 --> 01:04:11.800
good in english so this change it's it's really

01:04:11.800 --> 01:04:15.920
really uh meant for me thank you for that And

01:04:15.920 --> 01:04:21.360
I want to say thank you so much to you and Dr.

01:04:21.480 --> 01:04:27.800
Sophia because she tells you that I can speak

01:04:27.800 --> 01:04:31.500
with you and make this podcast. Thank you. Oh,

01:04:31.500 --> 01:04:33.880
of course. I mean, thank you for being on. I

01:04:33.880 --> 01:04:35.880
mean, clearly she thought that you had the best

01:04:35.880 --> 01:04:38.800
English of everyone to talk with me on the podcast.

01:04:38.880 --> 01:04:42.809
So, yeah, I really wanted to. get more information

01:04:42.809 --> 01:04:45.650
about climbing in indonesia it was hard to find

01:04:45.650 --> 01:04:48.809
people who were willing to speak so thank you

01:04:48.809 --> 01:04:52.250
for being brave um okay cool and then do you

01:04:52.250 --> 01:04:55.110
want to let people know where they can find more

01:04:55.110 --> 01:04:57.809
about you more information follow your journey

01:04:57.809 --> 01:05:01.510
yeah you can you can search my journey and my

01:05:01.510 --> 01:05:05.170
instagram at the chef and it's probably and i

01:05:05.170 --> 01:05:09.260
will put every idea from me there awesome i will

01:05:09.260 --> 01:05:11.900
link that in the description for anyone who wants

01:05:11.900 --> 01:05:15.500
to find you as well so awesome well thank you

01:05:15.500 --> 01:05:17.920
again and it was amazing to talk to you Thank

01:05:17.920 --> 01:05:20.639
you. Thank you for listening to this episode

01:05:20.639 --> 01:05:23.619
of the That's Not Real Climbing Podcast. If you've

01:05:23.619 --> 01:05:25.619
been enjoying the podcast, I would appreciate

01:05:25.619 --> 01:05:28.199
if you like it on YouTube or rate it on your

01:05:28.199 --> 01:05:31.099
podcasting platform. And please leave a comment

01:05:31.099 --> 01:05:34.019
or reach out at any time if you have any thoughts.

01:05:34.179 --> 01:05:37.559
I try to read all of the messages. If you want

01:05:37.559 --> 01:05:40.559
to continue the discussion, join the free competition

01:05:40.559 --> 01:05:43.599
climbing discord where we chat live during the

01:05:43.599 --> 01:05:46.300
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01:05:46.989 --> 01:05:49.670
The link is in the description and see you next

01:05:49.670 --> 01:05:49.889
time.